Judder when braking down through around 40mph?
Discussion
I have a Mazda 2 which has developed what I'd call a "judder" when braking down through around 40mph.
So for example driving around town braking is fine.
Dual carriageway braking down from 70mph is fine until around 40mph when there's judder which then seems to disappear from around 30mph downwards.
Car drives straight with no judder and brakes straight and tyres are almost new.
Appreciate it would need looking at as I know nothing about cars but does that sounds like the front discs are the most likely thing?
The pads and discs are still on their originals as the car hasn't done many miles.
So for example driving around town braking is fine.
Dual carriageway braking down from 70mph is fine until around 40mph when there's judder which then seems to disappear from around 30mph downwards.
Car drives straight with no judder and brakes straight and tyres are almost new.
Appreciate it would need looking at as I know nothing about cars but does that sounds like the front discs are the most likely thing?
The pads and discs are still on their originals as the car hasn't done many miles.
These problems are very hard to locate. It may feel like the front but could be caused by the rear. We assume brakes but it could be a tyre carcass or a hub issue or maybe a bush worn. The only thing you can do is start somewhere and keep going. Tyres and brakes are consumables so maybe start there with new discs and pads and swap the front wheels to the back.
Similar problem on my 2011 Citroen C5. I was about to get stuck in, change the brake pads and check the caliper slide pins, when I realised that Citroen in its wisdom, had fitted the electric hand brake, that needs special care when doing this job on the rears. I panicked, took it to my favourite independent garage, who diagnosed faulty DISCS. New discs all round, a slightly stunned wallet, and the car is as smooth braking as it ever was.
I'd suggest new discs. You may be able to do the work yourself on a Mazda.
John
I'd suggest new discs. You may be able to do the work yourself on a Mazda.
John
Forgive a silly question but just having a quick look online to get an idea what discs should cost to get changed and most online quote sites seem to let you quote on pads, pads and discs, but not just discs.
Should pads be done at the same time?
The car is still on the original pads and discs.
Should pads be done at the same time?
The car is still on the original pads and discs.
b
hstewie said:
hstewie said: Forgive a silly question but just having a quick look online to get an idea what discs should cost to get changed and most online quote sites seem to let you quote on pads, pads and discs, but not just discs.
Should pads be done at the same time?
The car is still on the original pads and discs.
Change the pads as well, they wear to the disc and you want to rule out a problem. Should pads be done at the same time?
The car is still on the original pads and discs.
It would be interesting to run a dial gauge to measure any run out on the current discs.
Caddyshack said:
Change the pads as well, they wear to the disc and you want to rule out a problem.
It would be interesting to run a dial gauge to measure any run out on the current discs.
Makes sense but I'm not even vaguely mechanical It would be interesting to run a dial gauge to measure any run out on the current discs.
There's a few online price quote things but even with those prices vary massively so any ideas what you might expect a decent local indy to do pads and discs for?
Slight dilemma going on about whether to keep the car and the common sense part of my brain says sort that out and it'a perfectly good little car.
bhstewie said:
hstewie said:Caddyshack said:
Change the pads as well, they wear to the disc and you want to rule out a problem.
It would be interesting to run a dial gauge to measure any run out on the current discs.
Makes sense but I'm not even vaguely mechanical It would be interesting to run a dial gauge to measure any run out on the current discs.
There's a few online price quote things but even with those prices vary massively so any ideas what you might expect a decent local indy to do pads and discs for?
Slight dilemma going on about whether to keep the car and the common sense part of my brain says sort that out and it'a perfectly good little car.
A modern car should not be much in labour to change discs and pads…maybe £200-300 plus the cost of the parts.
I did the rears on my boxster on Friday, start to finish was about an hour of my time.
Caddyshack said:
I would not change a car just for the fact it had a judder.
A modern car should not be much in labour to change discs and pads…maybe £200-300 plus the cost of the parts.
I did the rears on my boxster on Friday, start to finish was about an hour of my time.
Thanks, the online sites come up with £200-300 so it sounds like it can vary quite a bit just for the sake of trying a few places locally, and that wouldn't be the reason for considering changing, sort the judder and there's absolutely nothing at all wrong with the car - but knowing me I'll sort the judder then change it anyway so it's money down the drain.A modern car should not be much in labour to change discs and pads…maybe £200-300 plus the cost of the parts.
I did the rears on my boxster on Friday, start to finish was about an hour of my time.
dhutch said:
Unlikey on a car with sufficiently few miles on the clock to still be on its original disks and pads?
As much as I know nothing about cars it drives absolutely straight and without any sign of any noise or wobble or anything else.It's literally just this judder which seems like clockwork to occur when braking down through 40mph and goes at around 30mph.
Doesn't seem to matter if you're coming down from 45mph or 70mph.
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