SD1 V8 EFi VDP renovation & Morris Minor Restomod
Discussion
It’s an oily mess down there; I should be thankful as it clearly held corrosion at bay and explained why the underfloor underseal had become so ‘moist’!
So, front spoiler and undertrat fixings needed some persuasion
Why is there a disconnected aftermarket oil cooler there?
Might be linked to the towbar and Kenlowe fan; some serous past life towing a horsebox?
Still, It’s rewarding to see the refreshed underside just further back to add to….
Time to break some tapers; always best to spray de-seizing spray hours before
Strip off the XJS brake callipers for investigation; they appear healthy with plenty of pad life left
XJS discs also look good
Lower arms in desperate need of new bushes. But has the balljoint survived exposure to the elements? I can’t detect any play so will fit new boots and see how it drives; small but perceptible lag in steering response could be due to this (or many other things!)
[url]
|https://thumbsnap.com/WrZGuYg8[/url
Split pin seized in place- what’s hotter than boiling water but not able to melt the plastic securing cap? A hairdryer!
Still reluctant, but job done
In spite of knowing the single strap can take the load, visions of the carnage should it snap made me fit a second!
Finally able to drop the subframe
Oh yes, much oil has been deposited here!
But it’s provided access to drop the sump and see what horrors lurk inside, once I’ve degreased, obviously…
I can’t pretend I enjoy this task but have to be thankful rust has been abated (which takes far longer to resolve) so it’s a good excuse to play some tunes, have a few drinks and bask in the cleansing (I’ve resorted to E10 petrol, the ethanol appears strong!) …until,finally
And even the underside is free of sludge.
The more observant may have recognised I’ve locked the struts in place and can’t refurbish them. Well, that was my plan as I want to see how it drives on (what I believe) are OEM springs & dampers. Then I can either keep, sell or scrap when I upgrade. So a quick cleanup should suffice for the MOT.
So, front spoiler and undertrat fixings needed some persuasion
Why is there a disconnected aftermarket oil cooler there?
Might be linked to the towbar and Kenlowe fan; some serous past life towing a horsebox?
Still, It’s rewarding to see the refreshed underside just further back to add to….
Time to break some tapers; always best to spray de-seizing spray hours before
Strip off the XJS brake callipers for investigation; they appear healthy with plenty of pad life left
XJS discs also look good
Lower arms in desperate need of new bushes. But has the balljoint survived exposure to the elements? I can’t detect any play so will fit new boots and see how it drives; small but perceptible lag in steering response could be due to this (or many other things!)
[url]
|https://thumbsnap.com/WrZGuYg8[/urlSplit pin seized in place- what’s hotter than boiling water but not able to melt the plastic securing cap? A hairdryer!
Still reluctant, but job done
In spite of knowing the single strap can take the load, visions of the carnage should it snap made me fit a second!
Finally able to drop the subframe
Oh yes, much oil has been deposited here!
But it’s provided access to drop the sump and see what horrors lurk inside, once I’ve degreased, obviously…
I can’t pretend I enjoy this task but have to be thankful rust has been abated (which takes far longer to resolve) so it’s a good excuse to play some tunes, have a few drinks and bask in the cleansing (I’ve resorted to E10 petrol, the ethanol appears strong!) …until,finally
And even the underside is free of sludge.
The more observant may have recognised I’ve locked the struts in place and can’t refurbish them. Well, that was my plan as I want to see how it drives on (what I believe) are OEM springs & dampers. Then I can either keep, sell or scrap when I upgrade. So a quick cleanup should suffice for the MOT.
And look what arrived in the post right on time; a full bush rebuild kit, along with other goodies. Slightly disappointed that ‘Vitesse’ spec Watts Linkage bushes are now Polybushes; not a fan of their inherent harshness properties.
I can’t actually strip the rear axle until I finish the boot door and rear panel as other than the the axle the only recommended place to jack or support the rear of the car is on are the bumper corners!
Stripping down the brake master cylinder showed it too free of corrosion other than the leading chamfer of the bore, which should clean up with wire wool before fitting the rebuild kit.
I can’t actually strip the rear axle until I finish the boot door and rear panel as other than the the axle the only recommended place to jack or support the rear of the car is on are the bumper corners!
Stripping down the brake master cylinder showed it too free of corrosion other than the leading chamfer of the bore, which should clean up with wire wool before fitting the rebuild kit.
Edited by PRN2K on Saturday 2nd September 07:09
Over 15 years in storage wasn’t kind to the oil impregnated rubber parts; especially the steering bellows! I’d already ordered new so just need to decide whether to strip the whole gear down to cleanse…
Amusing DIY PAS cooler must have been crafted in a rush as the original was also still there!
|https://thumbsnap.com/DbL2ezeD[/url]
Still more degreasing of the engine underside required before dropping the sump to check the bearings and for any debris sat in the sump.
[url]
Amusing DIY PAS cooler must have been crafted in a rush as the original was also still there!
|https://thumbsnap.com/DbL2ezeD[/url]Still more degreasing of the engine underside required before dropping the sump to check the bearings and for any debris sat in the sump.
[url]Edited by PRN2K on Saturday 2nd September 07:11
Well, I've suddenly got some many tasks on the go at once!
The exhaust tunnel had a little more attention
Taking an 'oval' shape' from the rear
Master cylinder cleaned up, ready for paint before rebuild. But I’m prepare everything I intend to paint with POR15 together, so lower arms, calipers, ARB….
Best attempt to remove all the contaminants from the lower arm ball-joints was too soak them in petrol and swivel them around until the crap came out.
Lower arms were stripped of old bushes with suitable drifts...
Corrosion around the ARB mounts needed some clearing
And in with the new:
Plenty of grease and new boots
|https://thumbsnap.com/jtmJFmRy[/url][url]
My preferred technique to fit those pesky retaining rings is to use a cable tie to stretch them around the boot
|https://thumbsnap.com/x2uMxA47[/url]
Steering gear (non-pressurised side) clearly needed a full clean out.
But lets be honest, we all want to know about the engine health:
I dropped just 1 Main & Big-end cap to check the crankshaft wear:
Not so bad! And the bearing wear?
No; that's not good. More wear than I can accept so new shells throughout once I've checked clearances with Plastigage, in the belief that the current standard size shells just need a like-for-like replacement (and just a little more maintenance!)
Oh, and that VX220 project I mentioned? Well, a good friend agreed to a part ownership & storage proposal so it's 1/2 mine and awaiting our commitment to refresh it next! Yes, I've slowly realised I want to live with as many differing car experiences as I possibly can. And since owning a model as a child, I've so admired the Rolls Royce Corniche .....
The exhaust tunnel had a little more attention
Taking an 'oval' shape' from the rear
Master cylinder cleaned up, ready for paint before rebuild. But I’m prepare everything I intend to paint with POR15 together, so lower arms, calipers, ARB….
Best attempt to remove all the contaminants from the lower arm ball-joints was too soak them in petrol and swivel them around until the crap came out.
Lower arms were stripped of old bushes with suitable drifts...
Corrosion around the ARB mounts needed some clearing
And in with the new:
Plenty of grease and new boots
|https://thumbsnap.com/jtmJFmRy[/url][url]My preferred technique to fit those pesky retaining rings is to use a cable tie to stretch them around the boot
|https://thumbsnap.com/x2uMxA47[/url]Steering gear (non-pressurised side) clearly needed a full clean out.
But lets be honest, we all want to know about the engine health:
I dropped just 1 Main & Big-end cap to check the crankshaft wear:
Not so bad! And the bearing wear?
No; that's not good. More wear than I can accept so new shells throughout once I've checked clearances with Plastigage, in the belief that the current standard size shells just need a like-for-like replacement (and just a little more maintenance!)
Oh, and that VX220 project I mentioned? Well, a good friend agreed to a part ownership & storage proposal so it's 1/2 mine and awaiting our commitment to refresh it next! Yes, I've slowly realised I want to live with as many differing car experiences as I possibly can. And since owning a model as a child, I've so admired the Rolls Royce Corniche .....
Edited by PRN2K on Saturday 9th September 09:59
Whilst awaiting the Plastigage kit to arrive I decided to rebuild the brake master cylinder as zinc coating would suit it better than the black of all the other parts still being prepared.
Final cleaning of any remaining contaminants followed by copious flushing with brake cleaner
Original seals removed and all internal parts also stripped & meticulously cleaned
New seal pack fitted with plenty of brake fluid as lubricant
Assembly carefully eased into the cylinder and secured with unusual original plastic circlip
Reservoir components cleaned and prepared - it was time consuming to remove all dirt from inside!
All back together as clean as I could manage
[url]
One brake job done.....
However, I'll now retract my initial optimistic statement that the front Jag XJS callipers 'looked ok'
Turns out 17yrs stationary had well and truly seized them in the bores....
That little rotation came after much heat and Plusgas left overnight
It took MUCH persuasion to encourage them all out
Thankfully, a piston and seal rebuild kit from BiggRed came to a very reasonable £55 thanks to an Ebay discount code
Time for a major cleanup and media blast courtesy of a contact (refitting the pistons to protect the bores) ready to paint before the next rebuild kit arrives...
Final cleaning of any remaining contaminants followed by copious flushing with brake cleaner
Original seals removed and all internal parts also stripped & meticulously cleaned
New seal pack fitted with plenty of brake fluid as lubricant
Assembly carefully eased into the cylinder and secured with unusual original plastic circlip
Reservoir components cleaned and prepared - it was time consuming to remove all dirt from inside!
All back together as clean as I could manage
[url]One brake job done.....
However, I'll now retract my initial optimistic statement that the front Jag XJS callipers 'looked ok'
Turns out 17yrs stationary had well and truly seized them in the bores....
That little rotation came after much heat and Plusgas left overnight
It took MUCH persuasion to encourage them all out
Thankfully, a piston and seal rebuild kit from BiggRed came to a very reasonable £55 thanks to an Ebay discount code
Time for a major cleanup and media blast courtesy of a contact (refitting the pistons to protect the bores) ready to paint before the next rebuild kit arrives...
Edited by PRN2K on Tuesday 12th September 21:07
Some solid work there, well done.
A couple of quick things;
The oil cooler under the engine is factory on the EFI. It should be connected via a sandwich plate between the oil filter and pump housing. Most ended up having leaking hoses so were disconnected or removed.
Regarding the rear jacking points, I wouldn't trust them too far as its just some box section welded to the bottom of the bumper bracket. I have supported the rear of the car using the transverse box section in front of the rear wheels. It's a little forward, but there isn't much weight back there other than the axle. This and the box section behind the front wheels, is where i would support my SD1s when they were on QuickJacks (or on a 2 post hoist)
A couple of quick things;
The oil cooler under the engine is factory on the EFI. It should be connected via a sandwich plate between the oil filter and pump housing. Most ended up having leaking hoses so were disconnected or removed.
Regarding the rear jacking points, I wouldn't trust them too far as its just some box section welded to the bottom of the bumper bracket. I have supported the rear of the car using the transverse box section in front of the rear wheels. It's a little forward, but there isn't much weight back there other than the axle. This and the box section behind the front wheels, is where i would support my SD1s when they were on QuickJacks (or on a 2 post hoist)
Excellent thread this,always liked an SD1 in this exact colour and spec.Old enough to remember these from the 70's on,plenty of jam sandwich police cars to gawp at on the motorways back then.
You've got some great knowledge regarding resto's and i also like the fact that you know what you like,sure things evolve as you go but stick to your own principles. I did the same with the spec of my 87 Celica,could've gone OEM,but ended up going the other way with it but still keeping the 'essence' of the car and improving performance by keeping it N/A instead of the FI route most seemed to want me to do.You'll never keep everybody happy,but its not your problem if they don't like it,its theirs.The Moggy is super cool too.Looking forward to more feet up with a coffee, and seeing how she goes!
Great read mate.
You've got some great knowledge regarding resto's and i also like the fact that you know what you like,sure things evolve as you go but stick to your own principles. I did the same with the spec of my 87 Celica,could've gone OEM,but ended up going the other way with it but still keeping the 'essence' of the car and improving performance by keeping it N/A instead of the FI route most seemed to want me to do.You'll never keep everybody happy,but its not your problem if they don't like it,its theirs.The Moggy is super cool too.Looking forward to more feet up with a coffee, and seeing how she goes!
Great read mate.
Just finished a complete read through of this story, looking forward to following the next stages!
I need to use you as an inspiration to have a go at some more complex jobs on my Eunos, with your 'I don't know how to do that but I'll have a bash anyway and learn' mindset!
Oh yeah, and your moggy is just utterly beautiful.
I need to use you as an inspiration to have a go at some more complex jobs on my Eunos, with your 'I don't know how to do that but I'll have a bash anyway and learn' mindset!
Oh yeah, and your moggy is just utterly beautiful.
Well, thank you both for the comments!
Bandit 600 was also my first ‘proper bike’ and the only motorised transport I bought new for just £3300 when living in Germany for a year. I (and later ‘we’ with my now wife) had some great adventures through Europe on it and I ran it on German plates in the UK for 2 years hoping to be camera proof. Also enjoyed Ducati 916 at Caldwell Park & Monster 600 on road but then stopped to buy house and start family…TL1000S ‘widowmaker’ with crazy rear rotary damper was a dream bike I never rode so you’ve got me there! The VX220 is my last-ditch attempt to stay safe before I buy one!
Bandit 600 was also my first ‘proper bike’ and the only motorised transport I bought new for just £3300 when living in Germany for a year. I (and later ‘we’ with my now wife) had some great adventures through Europe on it and I ran it on German plates in the UK for 2 years hoping to be camera proof. Also enjoyed Ducati 916 at Caldwell Park & Monster 600 on road but then stopped to buy house and start family…TL1000S ‘widowmaker’ with crazy rear rotary damper was a dream bike I never rode so you’ve got me there! The VX220 is my last-ditch attempt to stay safe before I buy one!
Edited by PRN2K on Saturday 16th September 10:34
The repair kit arrived the day after the callipers were cleaned
New sealing rings installed followed by the pistons, lubed with new brake fluid
Then it was time to prep them and all the other parts for POR-15 black paint
They recommend they're own degreaser (obviously!), followed by their 'metal ready' prep liquid that once soaked in has to be rinsed away with water - leaving a slightly unnerving rusty/ zinc phosphate finish that looks unsuitable for painting - but just wipe off any loose powder then apply the POR-15.
Two coats required, applying the 2nd once the 1st if still slightly tacky with a little drag when a finger is wiped across it.
I hate having to paint stuff in 2 halves so hang them up to dry.....
The Plastigage also arrived, allowing me to measure the crankshaft wear to understand whether std or underside bearing shells were required. I was really hoping for good news here to avoid having to remove the engine and regrind the crank!
Big-end bearing diametrical clearance is 0.015-0.055mm, and I've got less than 0.025 so result!
I removed a couple more caps to check journals and clearances and thankfully all good.
Main bearing diametrical clearance is 0.023-0.065mm
Slighty more marginal at around 0.051mm, but if they're all similar I'd be happy. Time to drop the lot! it does feel slightly odd to be relying on the front and rear crank seals to support the crank but it's apparently quite ok....
And more good news, they're all within spec!
It couldn't last though; dropping the front main cap exposed the camchain, which is worryingly loose!
I just can't ignore that so once crank bolted back in place with standard size new shells, I'll have to remove the front cover to investigate. It was always on my mind whilst refreshing the front half of the engine bay and dealing with this rust that has not yet turned into serious corrosion... Overall, my luck is in!
New sealing rings installed followed by the pistons, lubed with new brake fluid
Then it was time to prep them and all the other parts for POR-15 black paint
They recommend they're own degreaser (obviously!), followed by their 'metal ready' prep liquid that once soaked in has to be rinsed away with water - leaving a slightly unnerving rusty/ zinc phosphate finish that looks unsuitable for painting - but just wipe off any loose powder then apply the POR-15.
Two coats required, applying the 2nd once the 1st if still slightly tacky with a little drag when a finger is wiped across it.
I hate having to paint stuff in 2 halves so hang them up to dry.....
The Plastigage also arrived, allowing me to measure the crankshaft wear to understand whether std or underside bearing shells were required. I was really hoping for good news here to avoid having to remove the engine and regrind the crank!
Big-end bearing diametrical clearance is 0.015-0.055mm, and I've got less than 0.025 so result!
I removed a couple more caps to check journals and clearances and thankfully all good.
Main bearing diametrical clearance is 0.023-0.065mm
Slighty more marginal at around 0.051mm, but if they're all similar I'd be happy. Time to drop the lot! it does feel slightly odd to be relying on the front and rear crank seals to support the crank but it's apparently quite ok....
And more good news, they're all within spec!
It couldn't last though; dropping the front main cap exposed the camchain, which is worryingly loose!
I just can't ignore that so once crank bolted back in place with standard size new shells, I'll have to remove the front cover to investigate. It was always on my mind whilst refreshing the front half of the engine bay and dealing with this rust that has not yet turned into serious corrosion... Overall, my luck is in!
Minor update (no not about the Minor!)
Painted front struts
And playing around with dash inserts. For me, so much better than wood, partly because suddenly the all in one dash is a modern thing; just now filled with modern digital tat that generally annoys the hell out of me; but the SD1 got there 1st!
Painted front struts
And playing around with dash inserts. For me, so much better than wood, partly because suddenly the all in one dash is a modern thing; just now filled with modern digital tat that generally annoys the hell out of me; but the SD1 got there 1st!
Edited by PRN2K on Sunday 17th September 18:30
I guess nobody agreed with the brushed aluminium dash inserts then!
I've realised I just don't like wood in cars - especially when just trim. So I'm going to (more carefully) cover the dash and door inserts with this grey wrap to 'live' with it for a while - but I think I like it. Leather is another option, but not for now.
Anyway, I've had 3 jobs om the go - 1st when it was absolutely chucking it down:
Plenty of spray glue left to go tacky and then firm pressure applied to hold them together.
A little ironing to remove any creases!
And then stretched and glued around the sunroof aperture
Voila - and the grab handles and sun visors should compress the material into the voids.
Next job - main bearing shell replacement. I'd refitted the sump pan to protect the internals until this point
The only thing I had to extract the shells without damaging the bearing surfaces were lolly sticks, that would handily curve around the crank and drive the shells out. Just needed to square off the ends
Out with the old and in with the new! (with plenty of cam lube)
All in (after many fractured lolly sticks!)
Caps and lower shells added, allowing me to move on to the big-end shell replacement by rotating the crank as required. TBC....
3rd job. It struck me that almost a year ago it was too cold to fit and paint the rear panel...what have I been waiting for?
Oh yes, to finish the boot floor!
Now, I can sand to key, epoxy prime and paint the inner side of the rear panel (easier off car)
Oops, forgot to photo the weld-through primer added to all the seams
Then I could start aligning and spot MIG-ing the seams
Then I just wanted some epoxy primer on the outside as rain's predicted tomorrow
I've realised I just don't like wood in cars - especially when just trim. So I'm going to (more carefully) cover the dash and door inserts with this grey wrap to 'live' with it for a while - but I think I like it. Leather is another option, but not for now.
Anyway, I've had 3 jobs om the go - 1st when it was absolutely chucking it down:
Plenty of spray glue left to go tacky and then firm pressure applied to hold them together.
A little ironing to remove any creases!
And then stretched and glued around the sunroof aperture
Voila - and the grab handles and sun visors should compress the material into the voids.
Next job - main bearing shell replacement. I'd refitted the sump pan to protect the internals until this point
The only thing I had to extract the shells without damaging the bearing surfaces were lolly sticks, that would handily curve around the crank and drive the shells out. Just needed to square off the ends
Out with the old and in with the new! (with plenty of cam lube)
All in (after many fractured lolly sticks!)
Caps and lower shells added, allowing me to move on to the big-end shell replacement by rotating the crank as required. TBC....
3rd job. It struck me that almost a year ago it was too cold to fit and paint the rear panel...what have I been waiting for?
Oh yes, to finish the boot floor!
Now, I can sand to key, epoxy prime and paint the inner side of the rear panel (easier off car)
Oops, forgot to photo the weld-through primer added to all the seams
Then I could start aligning and spot MIG-ing the seams
Then I just wanted some epoxy primer on the outside as rain's predicted tomorrow
Edited by PRN2K on Sunday 24th September 15:30
The dash will have to wait as I so want to finally install the roof lining - effectively as a cartridge from the hatch (suitably protected from marks with a bedding wrap)
Cleaning the sunroof surround trim hit me with the error of glueing the material to the surround; no, it has to stretch across the void to the sunroof aperture! Doh; luckily I’d kept enough material to reach
Then, I could complete the rear panel details; sealing the joins with sealer
And finally get some colour on!
[url
|https://thumbsnap.com/HcPZFrvq[/url]
No, not professional quality but enough to suffice for MOT and driving before the next phase of tuning the car to my taste prior to a whole vehicle paint job.
Other tasks were to prep the sump pan; hadn’t initially realised it was locally deformed due to over zealous torqueing.
A little wood jig would address most of the issue
And after careful ‘beating’
I find holding part against a pane of glass highlights any high spots to address
Cleaning the sunroof surround trim hit me with the error of glueing the material to the surround; no, it has to stretch across the void to the sunroof aperture! Doh; luckily I’d kept enough material to reach
Then, I could complete the rear panel details; sealing the joins with sealer
And finally get some colour on!
[url
|https://thumbsnap.com/HcPZFrvq[/url]No, not professional quality but enough to suffice for MOT and driving before the next phase of tuning the car to my taste prior to a whole vehicle paint job.
Other tasks were to prep the sump pan; hadn’t initially realised it was locally deformed due to over zealous torqueing.
A little wood jig would address most of the issue
And after careful ‘beating’
I find holding part against a pane of glass highlights any high spots to address
Edited by PRN2K on Wednesday 22 November 14:50
Lovely car and well written updates, I've just read from start.
I actually like wood inserts on dash and door caps etc, so not totally supportive of the brushed aluminium look, probably needs a wider view shot of the whole dash to fully form an opinion though.
That's a fair whack on the sump pan!
I actually like wood inserts on dash and door caps etc, so not totally supportive of the brushed aluminium look, probably needs a wider view shot of the whole dash to fully form an opinion though.
That's a fair whack on the sump pan!
Not sure why but I‘ve never wanted to own a car with wood trim (even though driving plenty, and preferring Matt to Gloss). Maybe I associate it with a ‘parents choice’. What’s the purpose of wood in a car? It might suggest strength but it’s always just trim. I think it always looks excessive adornment-although with the right colour I appreciate it can add warmth. Aluminium versus leather? Well, happy to debate that one!
Edited by PRN2K on Thursday 9th November 19:34
Lovely read, glad I’m not the only one with epic restorations. The dash repair looked very good. The wood inserts would probably look good in a stained colour. The brushed aluminium looks very 70’s in my opinion, but I understand the marmite wood or not.
You could perhaps cover the wood inserts in leather to match the seats? The exhaust outlet, perhaps an oval shape would help blend into the bumper without cutting into the bumper? Just an idea
Good stuff
You could perhaps cover the wood inserts in leather to match the seats? The exhaust outlet, perhaps an oval shape would help blend into the bumper without cutting into the bumper? Just an idea
Good stuff
RobXjcoupe said:
The exhaust outlet, perhaps an oval shape would help blend into the bumper without cutting into the bumper? Just an idea
Good stuff
Or dual, square upturned DTM stylee Good stuff
On a more serious note what about TWR race team style?
https://www.dhrofgo.com/for-sale/1985-twr-bastos-r...
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