I've just bought some poverty Pork…

[eltax91]

ooid said:

eltax91 said:

Any way to test that on the garage?

Start the engine and wait until it comes up to the temperature. Do not turn on A.C. once the engine temp reach the high amount, both front rads should start automatically to cool off. If they won't, they are probably damaged, ideally it is best to fix them or you can overheat the crap out of it in a slow traffic. (been there a few times, not good!)

Aaah ok. Will take it for a good drive to warm it up the. Idle it and keep an eye out.

AC won’t be a problem, it doesn’t work.

[ooid]

I think A.C. only helps when it works to run the fans manually if resisters are cooked..

Mine did not have A.C. at all, proper poverty pork but never needed really.

[RM]

Non-runner LHD 718 anyone? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285842416623

[CallMeLegend]

eltax91 said:

ooid said:

eltax91 said:

Any way to test that on the garage?

Start the engine and wait until it comes up to the temperature. Do not turn on A.C. once the engine temp reach the high amount, both front rads should start automatically to cool off. If they won't, they are probably damaged, ideally it is best to fix them or you can overheat the crap out of it in a slow traffic. (been there a few times, not good!)

Aaah ok. Will take it for a good drive to warm it up the. Idle it and keep an eye out.

AC won’t be a problem, it doesn’t work.

The resistor is a super easyrepair, I did the O/S one recently, with one of these from Design 911- https://www.design911shop.com/p/series-resistor-po...

Just remove the wheel & wheel arch liner, two solder joints & one plug connection, took unbder an hour.

[LennyM1984]

CallMeLegend said:

The resistor is a super easyrepair, I did the O/S one recently, with one of these from Design 911- https://www.design911shop.com/p/series-resistor-po...

Just remove the wheel & wheel arch liner, two solder joints & one plug connection, took unbder an hour.

If you are a little more DIY inclined, you can buy a similar resistor - 100w, 5 ohm (a resistor is a resistor) for about £1.50 (Ali Express will have loads but you could also pick one up on eBay). You then just need to solder the three wires to it. As per the above post, it is a quick and simple job and should take no more than an hour.

There will be cheaper options but the below ebay link has them for £2.98

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175686858855?itmmeta=01...

[CallMeLegend]

LennyM1984 said:

CallMeLegend said:

The resistor is a super easyrepair, I did the O/S one recently, with one of these from Design 911- https://www.design911shop.com/p/series-resistor-po...

Just remove the wheel & wheel arch liner, two solder joints & one plug connection, took unbder an hour.

If you are a little more DIY inclined, you can buy a similar resistor - 100w, 5 ohm (a resistor is a resistor) for about £1.50 (Ali Express will have loads but you could also pick one up on eBay). You then just need to solder the three wires to it. As per the above post, it is a quick and simple job and should take no more than an hour.

There will be cheaper options but the below ebay link has them for £2.98

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175686858855?itmmeta=01...

I did look at that, but they look awful & you can seethem when it's on a ramp.

[eltax91]

Used the car in the warm weather over the weekend. Temp needle stayed where I would expect it to.

Drivers side fan was definitely running, but the passenger I don’t think I could hear. Do they kick in under different constraints?

[LennyM1984]

eltax91 said:

Used the car in the warm weather over the weekend. Temp needle stayed where I would expect it to.

Drivers side fan was definitely running, but the passenger I don’t think I could hear. Do they kick in under different constraints?

No, they should both run together. What you are describing is highly likely to be a knackered ballast resistor but you can test the motor with a little jumper lead (effectively bypassing the resistor). I can't remember where to put it though (it's been 8 or 9 years since I replaced the resistor on my old Boxster).

[CallMeLegend]

21 years old next month, another advisory free MOT. She needs me to give her a nice machine polish this year & touch in/wet sand a couple of small stone chips & treat to some new rear tyres soon.

Edited by CallMeLegend on Monday 13th May 14:02

[ooid]

eltax91 said:

Used the car in the warm weather over the weekend. Temp needle stayed where I would expect it to.

Drivers side fan was definitely running, but the passenger I don’t think I could hear. Do they kick in under different constraints?

There are two stages. Stage 1 kicks in just below mid temp and stage 2 kicks in when $hit gets dangerously hot. If resistors are cooked, stage 1 does not work which means you are running it pretty hot during slow traffic.

All resistors DIY hacks above explained are great and legit. Moreover, if you are lucky you can find 2nd hand radiators with healthy resistors on eBay and they might be working OK.

[eltax91]

Track day next week in the bog standard 986 - 2.7 Poverty Pork. Car has a tad over 50% pads left all round and discs are in "ok" condition. So i'll see those off on track

Going to take a full set of discs/ pads with me just in case we need an impromtu paddock change.

Car is 90% sunny driver, %5 spare car/ backup duties and 5% track days.

Any reason not to stick with the Brembo's?

Edited by eltax91 on Tuesday 28th May 15:13

[shalmaneser]

eltax91 said:

Track day next week in the bog standard 986 - 2.7 Poverty Pork. Car has a tad over 50% pads left all round and discs are in "ok" condition. So i'll see those off on track

Going to take a full set of discs/ pads with me just in case we need an impromtu paddock change.

Car is 90% sunny driver, %5 spare car/ backup duties and 5% track days.

Any reason not to stray from the Brembo's?

I think pagid are actually the PE supplier for the discs and Textar for the pads. I used yellowstuff pads on track and they were much much better than stock once up to temp but noisy around town and felt dead from cold. Although I know some make them work they were too much of a compromise for me.

[Fast Bug]

Just to confuse matters, I had EBC yellow stuff pads and they hit the bin after a track day at Bedford. fking awful things, I now run Pagid Blue discs and pads and they're excellent and only get better when pressing on

[ATM]

Fast Bug said:

Just to confuse matters, I had EBC yellow stuff pads and they hit the bin after a track day at Bedford. fking awful things

How long ago?

I believe they had some production issues a few years ago, now fixed.

I have them on my big BMW. Strictly a road car. Pottering around only. They work fine. Bite from cold. Don't squeal too much. Had them on the car for 3 or 4 years but it isn't used much.

Although if comparing a lighter Porsche to my big BMW there is the obvious difference in weight. My big BMW will work the brakes more just pottering around. For example rusty discs get cleared straight away on the BMW. Rust on rear discs of the Porsche can linger for ages.

[Fast Bug]

ATM said:

Fast Bug said:

Just to confuse matters, I had EBC yellow stuff pads and they hit the bin after a track day at Bedford. fking awful things

How long ago?

I believe they had some production issues a few years ago, now fixed.

I have them on my big BMW. Strictly a road car. Pottering around only. They work fine. Bite from cold. Don't squeal too much. Had them on the car for 3 or 4 years but it isn't used much.

Although if comparing a lighter Porsche to my big BMW there is the obvious difference in weight. My big BMW will work the brakes more just pottering around. For example rusty discs get cleared straight away on the BMW. Rust on rear discs of the Porsche can linger for ages.

They were on the car when I bought it, so maybe 7 years ago? 3 laps of Bedford and the pedal virtually hit the floor. My indi also said they were crap and he refused to fit them to customers cars

[Smollet]

Fast Bug said:

ATM said:

Fast Bug said:

Just to confuse matters, I had EBC yellow stuff pads and they hit the bin after a track day at Bedford. fking awful things

How long ago?

I believe they had some production issues a few years ago, now fixed.

I have them on my big BMW. Strictly a road car. Pottering around only. They work fine. Bite from cold. Don't squeal too much. Had them on the car for 3 or 4 years but it isn't used much.

Although if comparing a lighter Porsche to my big BMW there is the obvious difference in weight. My big BMW will work the brakes more just pottering around. For example rusty discs get cleared straight away on the BMW. Rust on rear discs of the Porsche can linger for ages.

They were on the car when I bought it, so maybe 7 years ago? 3 laps of Bedford and the pedal virtually hit the floor. My indi also said they were crap and he refused to fit them to customers cars

I’ve used yellow stuff on a variety of cars and never had a problem with them

[WeirdNeville]

EBC Blues are the new Yellows. They've changed their designations and compositions. Yellows are just fast road pads now, blues are track/fast road.

[eltax91]

shalmaneser said:

eltax91 said:

Track day next week in the bog standard 986 - 2.7 Poverty Pork. Car has a tad over 50% pads left all round and discs are in "ok" condition. So i'll see those off on track

Going to take a full set of discs/ pads with me just in case we need an impromtu paddock change.

Car is 90% sunny driver, %5 spare car/ backup duties and 5% track days.

Any reason not to stray from the Brembo's?

I think pagid are actually the PE supplier for the discs and Textar for the pads. I used yellowstuff pads on track and they were much much better than stock once up to temp but noisy around town and felt dead from cold. Although I know some make them work they were too much of a compromise for me.

Any supplier tips to get the oem combination? The likes of design 911 have textar pads but don’t stock pagid discs for example.

I filled a basket on auto doc earlier, £430 delivered for the whole lot which seemed palatable

Edited by eltax91 on Tuesday 28th May 22:33

[WeirdNeville]

I got pagid disks for the 987 from GSF. They're not the same as OEM, the bell housing isn't painted/anodised in the same way. They are under half the price and I've had no issues with them on road or track though. They're just showing a slight sheen of rust, which the Porsche rears aren't despite being years old.

[eltax91]

To round this one off. I got the whole lot, pagid discs, textar pads, 4 wear sensors and 4 fitting kits from 911-shop for £475 with next day delivery.

That’ll see me for a bit and next time as long as I keep a close eye I can just do pads and avoid wear sensors as I’ll know they are new