The "what bike bits have you just bought" thread

Ah, now it becomes clear.....

Neither do I now. Apart from keeping my shoes clean. Which was handy. Easier to wash the socks than the shoes.

Oversocks are good for the days when it's not-exactly-warm (for me, 3/4s or knee warmers temperatures) and/or the roads are damp, but not underwater. Then they're great, keeping most of the chill off your toes, and the spray/muck off your shoes. Anything properly cold and/or wet and they're soon useless: overshoes all the way.

I've both the oversocks you have, some Prenda oversocks (£8, bargain!) and some Gore windstopper soft shell overshoes. All are good. Right now the Gores are utterly amazing

treated myself to a lovely Bontrager air rush

Not so much bought as been given for my birthday

SKS Raceblade longs, really is to fit and seem to do a good job.







Also an Altura long sleeve jersey, buff and pair of seal skinz socks: it's been a good day.

Couldn't find a suitable bash / chain suck guard for the c456 i'm building as my winter beater, so a few hrs with some woving and epoxy later:








Hopefully stop help to keep the frame in good order, even when i try to ride over stuff that i don't actually have the skillz to get over............. ;-)

Seconded. I presume you work in composite manufacturing and have an understanding/ not very observant boss!



As foy myself, I've got sick and tired of adjusting my cable Tektro Io rear caliper after every 2 or 3 rides, so bought this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAGURA-JULIE-rear-hydrau...

Its actually a Louise not a Julie, as the seller kindly waited until after I'd won it to inform me. I'm not that bothered as I was only after a cheapo rear hydro. Anyone know if it will be a direct swap or will I need a different frame to caliper spacer? I swapped my front Io to an Aguira hydro and it just went straight on but then they were both Tektro calipers.

Yeah they are good, I like mine. Don't worry if it appears to shave some material from your Garmin, it only happens the first couple of times you fit it

Been having some rear brake issues on my Whyte, so at the end of last week I bought a universal bleed kit from www.epicbleedsolutions.com (would highly recommend, quick service and a damn quick response to emails).

Having one that and still having issues Ive just been to the LBS and purchased a new set of Aztec pads. Fingers crossed that will be it sorted.

Sorry, i don't work in composites, but i do work in my kitchen.....

Make as follows:


You will need:
1) woven carbon cloth - probably about 4 layers of thin stuff (200g/sm etc)
2) epoxy or polyester resin (polyester = cheap but not strong, easy to work with. Epoxy = more expensive but stronger, harder to work with but better finish when you get things right)
3) something to use as a pattern/mould
4) lots of newspapers, some disposable gloves, a small paint brush or two, some plastic cups, some suitable thinners (acetone)
5) an understanding partner or girlfriend with ideally a poor sense of smell.....


Recipe:
1) Cover your pattern in something to ensure you can release the finished part from it, without damaging the pattern or the part. In this case, i used the bike frame as a direct pattern, covered it with electrical insulation tape and then slapped on a couple of coats of release agent to help the moulded part come off it.
2) cut your CF cloth to suit - leaving a nice wide border around the outside (2" or so). if you are doing multiple layers, or complicated load bearing parts, consider varrying the direction of the weave between layers for max strength (really heavily loaded parts need a lot of care/thought in this respect
3) Mix you resin (either by mass or volume depending on the resin system you use) Depending on the type and speed of your hardener(and the ambient temp), your "pot life" will be anywhere between 5mins and 3 hrs. For beginners, long is good as it gives you more time to get it neat! Try not to get too much air mixed in with your resin, ideally leave to stand for a bit to help the air rise to the surface(or really ideally use a vaccum source to de-airate the pot contents!)
4) brush on a thin layer of resin
5) drap the first layer of cloth over the resin, carefully brush on another layer of resin. Carefully working the brush to push the resin into the cloth. As the cloth "wets" you will be able to drape it more easily around complex shapes.
6) repeat with each layer of resin, resisting the temptation to apply too much resin
7) once happy with the layers, i use kitchen clingfilm, carefully draped over the top layer, and i use a small roller tool (and my fingers) to push any excess resin (and air) out of the layers, starting in the middle.
8) for really high strength parts, use a vacuum bagging system to apply pressure to squeeze layers together. Or on a more DIY basis, use another layer of tape to force the layers together or sometime you can use dry sand to help push the cloth (under the cling film!) into the corners of the mould
9) wash up your tools in the thinners, look at your watch
10) retire to pub whilst resin sets (at this time of year, external heat sources (hot air gun/hairdryer (ask GF first before just nicking it!) maybe required to start the setting process (~50degC is ideal)
11) before part sets completely (usually 12-15hrs) remove from mould/pattern (this can sometimes be easier said than done, and might require careful levering with wooden tools (again, ask before borrowing your otherhalfs favourite wooden spoon from the kitchen). Whilst the part is slightly flexible, it is easy to remove without damage
12) post cure part (depends on resin system, can be say 15hrs at 60degC for example)
13) trim part to size
14) depending on how good a job you did, and what environment the part will live in, you may also want to add an extra top coat of laquer or similar to protect it or make it shiney!
15) sit back and congratulate yourself on a nice little job well done (again, i find beer helps at this point!)

simples ;-)