Buying a Chainsaw
Discussion
Aprisa said:
I've had a Husqvarna Rancher for twenty yrs and it has only ever had a plug change, fantastic tool and well used.
Best safety trick is to keep the thing razor sharp which avoids trying too hard, I bought a bar mounted 12v grinder from Northern tool which is excellent, can sharpen a blunt chain in about ten mins and copes well with the hardened teeth cased by grounding.
HTH
Nick
I got to get me one of them!Best safety trick is to keep the thing razor sharp which avoids trying too hard, I bought a bar mounted 12v grinder from Northern tool which is excellent, can sharpen a blunt chain in about ten mins and copes well with the hardened teeth cased by grounding.
HTH
Nick
My local Stihl stealership charges a fortune to sharpen all my chains! This might pay for itself - does it also grind the cutting guides?
Can you post details or a link?
Edited by dealmaker on Tuesday 10th March 18:31
dealmaker said:
Aprisa said:
I've had a Husqvarna Rancher for twenty yrs and it has only ever had a plug change, fantastic tool and well used.
Best safety trick is to keep the thing razor sharp which avoids trying too hard, I bought a bar mounted 12v grinder from Northern tool which is excellent, can sharpen a blunt chain in about ten mins and copes well with the hardened teeth cased by grounding.
HTH
Nick
I got to get me one of them!Best safety trick is to keep the thing razor sharp which avoids trying too hard, I bought a bar mounted 12v grinder from Northern tool which is excellent, can sharpen a blunt chain in about ten mins and copes well with the hardened teeth cased by grounding.
HTH
Nick
My local Stihl stealership charges a fortune to sharpen all my chains! This might pay for itself - does it also grind the cutting guides?
Can you post details or a link?
Edited by richyb on Tuesday 10th March 18:34
richyb said:
dealmaker said:
Aprisa said:
I've had a Husqvarna Rancher for twenty yrs and it has only ever had a plug change, fantastic tool and well used.
Best safety trick is to keep the thing razor sharp which avoids trying too hard, I bought a bar mounted 12v grinder from Northern tool which is excellent, can sharpen a blunt chain in about ten mins and copes well with the hardened teeth cased by grounding.
HTH
Nick
I got to get me one of them!Best safety trick is to keep the thing razor sharp which avoids trying too hard, I bought a bar mounted 12v grinder from Northern tool which is excellent, can sharpen a blunt chain in about ten mins and copes well with the hardened teeth cased by grounding.
HTH
Nick
My local Stihl stealership charges a fortune to sharpen all my chains! This might pay for itself - does it also grind the cutting guides?
Can you post details or a link?
Edited by richyb on Tuesday 10th March 18:34
dealmaker said:
richyb said:
dealmaker said:
Aprisa said:
I've had a Husqvarna Rancher for twenty yrs and it has only ever had a plug change, fantastic tool and well used.
Best safety trick is to keep the thing razor sharp which avoids trying too hard, I bought a bar mounted 12v grinder from Northern tool which is excellent, can sharpen a blunt chain in about ten mins and copes well with the hardened teeth cased by grounding.
HTH
Nick
I got to get me one of them!Best safety trick is to keep the thing razor sharp which avoids trying too hard, I bought a bar mounted 12v grinder from Northern tool which is excellent, can sharpen a blunt chain in about ten mins and copes well with the hardened teeth cased by grounding.
HTH
Nick
My local Stihl stealership charges a fortune to sharpen all my chains! This might pay for itself - does it also grind the cutting guides?
Can you post details or a link?
Edited by richyb on Tuesday 10th March 18:34
I reckon i can do a better job sharpening a poked chain than a shop.I once trashed a brandnew chain on a 3120 with 4' bar(tree was full of metal).Took it to a local sawshop to sharpen and they must have stuck the apprentice on it.All the teeth were differant lengths and hooked,cut nice bannana lines after that.
I should have spent 20mins max and done it by hand myself,had to buy a new 'un in the end
I should have spent 20mins max and done it by hand myself,had to buy a new 'un in the end
dealmaker said:
Aprisa said:
I've had a Husqvarna Rancher for twenty yrs and it has only ever had a plug change, fantastic tool and well used.
Best safety trick is to keep the thing razor sharp which avoids trying too hard, I bought a bar mounted 12v grinder from Northern tool which is excellent, can sharpen a blunt chain in about ten mins and copes well with the hardened teeth cased by grounding.
HTH
Nick
I got to get me one of them!Best safety trick is to keep the thing razor sharp which avoids trying too hard, I bought a bar mounted 12v grinder from Northern tool which is excellent, can sharpen a blunt chain in about ten mins and copes well with the hardened teeth cased by grounding.
HTH
Nick
My local Stihl stealership charges a fortune to sharpen all my chains! This might pay for itself - does it also grind the cutting guides?
Can you post details or a link?
Edited by dealmaker on Tuesday 10th March 18:31
http://www.northerntooluk.com/products.asp?subcate...
Probably does a good job but flippin' expensive.
JCW said:
I think he means one of these...
http://www.northerntooluk.com/products.asp?subcate...
Probably does a good job but flippin' expensive.
Have you seen the price of the Stihl one!!!http://www.northerntooluk.com/products.asp?subcate...
Probably does a good job but flippin' expensive.
dealmaker said:
DOOG said:
If you want to do it like the pros...
Get a top handled one like this, so you can use it with one hand.. Leaving the other free to smoke a cigarette..
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Stihl-MS-200T-Top-Handle-Cha...
Nice.......but should only really be used by a trained tree surgeon who knows his way round the upper sections of a tree!Get a top handled one like this, so you can use it with one hand.. Leaving the other free to smoke a cigarette..
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Stihl-MS-200T-Top-Handle-Cha...
richyb said:
You don't actaully pay to have your chain sharpened do you? Its a 10 min job with a file and guide.
And you don't have to pop back inside or back to the car to sharpen it. Best way is have two chains to start the day - and sharpen them when you've got a break or end of the day. Might have to have a look at the dremel option - sounds good.RedexR said:
dealmaker said:
DOOG said:
If you want to do it like the pros...
Get a top handled one like this, so you can use it with one hand.. Leaving the other free to smoke a cigarette..
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Stihl-MS-200T-Top-Handle-Cha...
Nice.......but should only really be used by a trained tree surgeon who knows his way round the upper sections of a tree!Get a top handled one like this, so you can use it with one hand.. Leaving the other free to smoke a cigarette..
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Stihl-MS-200T-Top-Handle-Cha...
richyb said:
JCW said:
I think he means one of these...
http://www.northerntooluk.com/products.asp?subcate...
Probably does a good job but flippin' expensive.
Have you seen the price of the Stihl one!!!http://www.northerntooluk.com/products.asp?subcate...
Probably does a good job but flippin' expensive.
JCW said:
No. Re-mortgage jobby? Does anyone have any practical experience of these, or are they a nice thing to have but relative to the traditional files an expensive waste of time?
£570 with Vat. Ouch. I've used electronic sharpeners before and they do a good job and are quicker but in my honest opinion it reduces the amount of use you get of the chain (it very quickly grinds away the teeth). I use my saw for a few hours at a time atleast 3 days a week and only have to change the chain twice a year. Which I think is pretty good. I use and wear out a new round file everytime I sharpen my chains, 6-10 strokes on each tooth and move on (depending on last use). That should be enough to put a good sharp edge on the chain. At 75p a file it does add up over a year but its the same case for electic grinders and their abrasive discs. If you have a really badly looked after chain and the teeth are all different lengths and the angles are wrong a electric grinder would be a brilliant to put them right without taking a hours. I think they definately have their benefits but if your only an occasional user I suggest sticking to a round file with guide and in terms of maintainence I would sharpen after use then take off the chain and leave it a shallow bowl of chain oil till next time (If the saw is going to be sitting for weeks/months this will be of real benefit in the long run). Just my opinion and way of doing things though. A lot of chainsawing is down to preference, going for maximum power or minimum weight or somewhere in between, sharpen after or before use, chisel or chipper chains, bar length and so on. Edited by richyb on Wednesday 11th March 18:13
karona said:
Hyperion said:
If you want the best and have money to burn, then Husqvarna or Stihl.
Sachs Dollmar, German and, allegedly, the best. Hugely expensive.Stihl is the way forward - they go forever and aftermarket support is exemplary.
(I've got a Sachs Dolmar Brushcutter - still waiting for parts for it - 7 months and ticking! none of the dealers like to touch them)
dealmaker said:
karona said:
Hyperion said:
If you want the best and have money to burn, then Husqvarna or Stihl.
Sachs Dollmar, German and, allegedly, the best. Hugely expensive.Stihl is the way forward - they go forever and aftermarket support is exemplary.
(I've got a Sachs Dolmar Brushcutter - still waiting for parts for it - 7 months and ticking! none of the dealers like to touch them)
Gassing Station | Homes, Gardens and DIY | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff