2003 Mercedes W209 CLK55 AMG daily driver
Discussion
New noise! 
When accelerating it sounds like there is a speed increasing ticking noise from the dashboard. If I take my foot off the accelerator, the sound goes away. It only does it while moving i.e. you cannot hear the noise if I’m stationary and pushing the accelerator pedal.
Thoughts?
When accelerating it sounds like there is a speed increasing ticking noise from the dashboard. If I take my foot off the accelerator, the sound goes away. It only does it while moving i.e. you cannot hear the noise if I’m stationary and pushing the accelerator pedal.
Thoughts?
Really appreciate the comments guys and just back from a drive, I can report:
1) no ticking noise (like a loud clock) when pushing the accelerator pedal while stationary, so not the engine, phew.
2) less noise if starting the car and going for a drive with the interior fan set at 0. However, no change when turning the fan on + a/c off or on.
3) sounds worse if going for a drive with the interior fan on when starting up.
4) ticking speed increases while accelerating and the sound goes away when lifting off the throttle.
5) sometimes there is a slapping sounding noise in the middle of the dash.
Hahaha seems ridiculous reading this back
1) no ticking noise (like a loud clock) when pushing the accelerator pedal while stationary, so not the engine, phew.
2) less noise if starting the car and going for a drive with the interior fan set at 0. However, no change when turning the fan on + a/c off or on.
3) sounds worse if going for a drive with the interior fan on when starting up.
4) ticking speed increases while accelerating and the sound goes away when lifting off the throttle.
5) sometimes there is a slapping sounding noise in the middle of the dash.
Hahaha seems ridiculous reading this back
Edited by fastgerman on Thursday 9th November 14:15
Thanks and yes perhaps on the fan just amplifying something else.
Here’s a vid, you can hear the ticking sounds in the first 10 seconds then not when I’m coasting - https://youtu.be/ofVz1ZR6w0U?si=mBYfyElP21vYEAWw
Here’s a vid, you can hear the ticking sounds in the first 10 seconds then not when I’m coasting - https://youtu.be/ofVz1ZR6w0U?si=mBYfyElP21vYEAWw
Edited by fastgerman on Friday 10th November 14:18
Thanks for the suggestions guys and a fun watch here - https://youtu.be/1n2uKWeisgU?si=TxDKUJzq0ByAWMDA
Matt mentions the stepper motors on the dash clicking but that’s already been dealt with.
So, I took the car up to motorway speeds and same noises at faster frequency. The sound also goes when lifting off the throttle.
Possibilities - Flex Disk, Spark plug loose, headers/heat shield
Links:
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class-w209/806737-c...
I think it’s going to have to go in again…
Matt mentions the stepper motors on the dash clicking but that’s already been dealt with.
So, I took the car up to motorway speeds and same noises at faster frequency. The sound also goes when lifting off the throttle.
Possibilities - Flex Disk, Spark plug loose, headers/heat shield
Links:
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class-w209/806737-c...
I think it’s going to have to go in again…
A bit more testing today during a 50 mile run and I’m wondering if it’s the alternator:
- Battery replaced a week or so ago and the mechanic said the old battery was too small.
- Burning electrics smell in the cabin.
- Ticking noise is based on engine rpm and not wheel speed. If I change up and down gear at a constant speed it affects the ticking noise.
- Ticking noise still disappears when lifting off the throttle.
Thoughts?
- Battery replaced a week or so ago and the mechanic said the old battery was too small.
- Burning electrics smell in the cabin.
- Ticking noise is based on engine rpm and not wheel speed. If I change up and down gear at a constant speed it affects the ticking noise.
- Ticking noise still disappears when lifting off the throttle.
Thoughts?
Thanks for the replies guys, booked in to SE Autoworks in Guildford who have started looking after my 2015 S4 also. Will give Cayman Autos a go once the weather starts improving also.
Had a bonnet up incident today as I couldn’t unlock the car with the fob and then on opening with the manual key, the alarm went off and couldn’t start it. Turned out to be a cable from the positive terminal on the battery to a fuse had come off. Possibly down to fitting a new battery recently.
Anyway, the bonnet was up (for the wrong reason) in a car park known for car meets on a Sunday afternoon. Nice chap came over and brightened my mood by saying how much he loved these cars and used to have one himself.
Which takes me onto the last comment, why do we buy cars like this. I think this is a great video and at 9 minutes you get where I seem to be spending my time - https://youtu.be/EJOkjWKaeXY?si=Hg4-mJyeTDrtqfx1
Some past motoring experiences in most recent order:
- Ferrari 456, bought for 21k, spent around 8k over 2 years and sold for £30k
- Audi S8, bought for 3.5k, spent 2k over 2 years and sold for 7.5k
- Merc C250, lease with 3k deposit and 280 p/m. Cost 9k over 2 years and absolutely nothing to show for it after.
Which one of the 3 do you think was the most and least fun ;-).
Had a bonnet up incident today as I couldn’t unlock the car with the fob and then on opening with the manual key, the alarm went off and couldn’t start it. Turned out to be a cable from the positive terminal on the battery to a fuse had come off. Possibly down to fitting a new battery recently.
Anyway, the bonnet was up (for the wrong reason) in a car park known for car meets on a Sunday afternoon. Nice chap came over and brightened my mood by saying how much he loved these cars and used to have one himself.
Which takes me onto the last comment, why do we buy cars like this. I think this is a great video and at 9 minutes you get where I seem to be spending my time - https://youtu.be/EJOkjWKaeXY?si=Hg4-mJyeTDrtqfx1
Some past motoring experiences in most recent order:
- Ferrari 456, bought for 21k, spent around 8k over 2 years and sold for £30k
- Audi S8, bought for 3.5k, spent 2k over 2 years and sold for 7.5k
- Merc C250, lease with 3k deposit and 280 p/m. Cost 9k over 2 years and absolutely nothing to show for it after.
Which one of the 3 do you think was the most and least fun ;-).
My problem with cars is that I buy something that I think is interesting, invest time and money into getting it all sorted, then fancy something else and sell it after a couple of years.
At this point I can’t imagine trying to sell a car that either drips oil / doesn’t change gear / makes strange noises / has warning lights etc.
Make sure you buy this car is Spring 2025 haha
At this point I can’t imagine trying to sell a car that either drips oil / doesn’t change gear / makes strange noises / has warning lights etc.
Make sure you buy this car is Spring 2025 haha
My V8 armchair has returned! All fixed at Merc Medics in Woking. No more noises, which essentially were the engine and gearbox touching the chassis as gearbox and engine mounts had perished. The following was replaced:
Engine mounts
Gearbox mounts
Flexible brake pipes
Heat shield adjustment
Rear anti-roll bar links
Front wishbones
Engine rocker cover gaskets
Breather hoses
Fingers crossed for some trouble free motoring. If I get to March without anything else - over 1 year and 2,000 miles costs:
£550 tyres and balancing
£584 service, brake fluid, spark plugs
£440 climate control, parking brake, roof and window alignment, camseal
£2,713 the above Merc Medics list
The car drives beautifully now. A shame that some parts that were ‘replaced’ by Magari needed to be redone. Well, at least I now have somewhere to take my car for servicing.
Engine mounts
Gearbox mounts
Flexible brake pipes
Heat shield adjustment
Rear anti-roll bar links
Front wishbones
Engine rocker cover gaskets
Breather hoses
Fingers crossed for some trouble free motoring. If I get to March without anything else - over 1 year and 2,000 miles costs:
£550 tyres and balancing
£584 service, brake fluid, spark plugs
£440 climate control, parking brake, roof and window alignment, camseal
£2,713 the above Merc Medics list
The car drives beautifully now. A shame that some parts that were ‘replaced’ by Magari needed to be redone. Well, at least I now have somewhere to take my car for servicing.
Edited by fastgerman on Friday 15th December 16:05
trevalvole said:
Good to know that it is all fixed now.
Did they find and diagnose the suspension issues themselves? I ask because I have some doubts about the behaviour of (especially) the rear suspension on my C320 and they might be an option.
Yes Merc Medics did everything, definitely recommended by me. While it wasn’t cheap, the turnaround time was pretty quick. The garage was recommended to me by SE Autoworks (who look after my S4) and Hepworth garages (who look after neighbours various Porsche’s) in Guildford.Did they find and diagnose the suspension issues themselves? I ask because I have some doubts about the behaviour of (especially) the rear suspension on my C320 and they might be an option.
Some different experiences to report, we’ll start with the positive - the SL Shop now stocks CLK parts :-)
Even arrives with sweets!
Now the not so good part, I have a battery drain and recalling on past experience - https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
I have started the same process on the CLK:
When I first connected the amp meter (positive battery terminal connected + positive amp meter prong on negative battery lead + negative amp meter prong on negative battery side), I was greeted with 2.2 rating falling to 0.2. On opening doors or boot this jumps back up to 2.2 and falls back to 0.2 after a few minutes.
What else shall I check for a quick win??
Ps battery needs charging every 2 weeks if the car isn’t used.
Even arrives with sweets!
Now the not so good part, I have a battery drain and recalling on past experience - https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
I have started the same process on the CLK:
When I first connected the amp meter (positive battery terminal connected + positive amp meter prong on negative battery lead + negative amp meter prong on negative battery side), I was greeted with 2.2 rating falling to 0.2. On opening doors or boot this jumps back up to 2.2 and falls back to 0.2 after a few minutes.
What else shall I check for a quick win??
Ps battery needs charging every 2 weeks if the car isn’t used.
Edited by fastgerman on Thursday 18th April 15:00
Just a front loading CD, nothing in the boot or glovebox. Good suggestion though.
Amps have dropped to 0.16 somehow - I’ve left the amp meter connected for a couple of hours. Googling brings up air circulation or seat connections, which I can’t work out.
Amps have dropped to 0.16 somehow - I’ve left the amp meter connected for a couple of hours. Googling brings up air circulation or seat connections, which I can’t work out.
Edited by fastgerman on Thursday 18th April 15:41
I’m a bit heavy handed to be honest to pull all the fuses 1 by 1. I’ve done this on a previous car and bust something that cost more to fix.
I’m watching the amp meter through the window and while it is sitting somewhere between 0.16 and 0.22, it spikes up to 1.5 to 2 ish every now and again which would indicate something is turning on e.g. climate related.
Doors and boot are closed. Windows down and bonnet open. Anything to try (happy to unplug devices), thanks.
Ps tested so far - unplugged front seats, removed fuses accessible from the side of the dashboard which seem to include central locking etc, checked doors and boot, removed CD. The fuse box by the firewall (opposite side to the battery) is a mine field of cables, too scared to pull anything.
I’m watching the amp meter through the window and while it is sitting somewhere between 0.16 and 0.22, it spikes up to 1.5 to 2 ish every now and again which would indicate something is turning on e.g. climate related.
Doors and boot are closed. Windows down and bonnet open. Anything to try (happy to unplug devices), thanks.
Ps tested so far - unplugged front seats, removed fuses accessible from the side of the dashboard which seem to include central locking etc, checked doors and boot, removed CD. The fuse box by the firewall (opposite side to the battery) is a mine field of cables, too scared to pull anything.
Edited by fastgerman on Thursday 18th April 17:27
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