My midlife crisis purchase; E86 BMW Z4 Coupe
Discussion
d_a_n1979 said:
Some serious work there Sam... That surface rust 
Will that wire brush off/can it be treated or is it time for a replacement part?
ATE Powerdiscs and Ceramic pads - superb combo
I wire brushed it and nothing really came off. I’ll slap some Hydrate 80 on it at some point this summer. I think the knuckles generally fair badly in the Uk. It’s 18 years old and spent a fair chunk of its life by the sea. Will that wire brush off/can it be treated or is it time for a replacement part?ATE Powerdiscs and Ceramic pads - superb combo
At the end of the summer, I’ll probably get some Lanoguard. It’s probably too late but it’ll hopefully stop it getting worse.
roadie said:
On my girlfriend's Mini the curvature of the edge of the windscreen is so extreme that the passenger side Bosch wiper is unable to fully sweep it. Is that the same on the Z4?
Yeah, it’s pretty curved at the edges. In other news the rear brakes are going to have to wait until another day because it’s hoofing it down with rain. Joy.
Court_S said:
Cheers.
The fluid was done in March when it had the oil changed and the top gaskets done. It looks nice and clean but I might donor again if the brakes still feel a bit crap once bedded in.
Cool. It depends on how well the garage changed the fluid, too. I've known some just suck out what's in the reservoir and top it back up again... I've always had good results using ATE Typ200.The fluid was done in March when it had the oil changed and the top gaskets done. It looks nice and clean but I might donor again if the brakes still feel a bit crap once bedded in.
Court_S said:
First up was new wipers. Someone had tried to fit aero blades but the clamp was massive and very ugly. The passenger side didn’t touch the screen in the car corner. The new traditional J hook jobbies look much better but the end of the passenger side still isn’t in contact with the screen so I need to try and work out why.
The only ones that fit the bottom passenger side shape properly are genuine BMW ones.
Gallons Per Mile said:
Cool. It depends on how well the garage changed the fluid, too. I've known some just suck out what's in the reservoir and top it back up again... I've always had good results using ATE Typ200.
Yeah, I don’t really trust that they’ve done a great job especially with so many fixings missing. I spent ages bleeding the brakes on the 330i and those brakes are really, really good. I’ll probably change the fluid on due course.
I’ve been out in the car today and the my already feel better than the s
tty NAPA discs and pads. Court_S said:
MOTK said:
The only ones that fit the bottom passenger side shape properly are genuine BMW ones.
I’m starting to think that they might be the way forward. These Bosch ones fit better than the aero ones that were on the car before.
Mr Tidy said:
Lotusgone said:
Test driving a coupe is an atch I definitely need to scritch.
Just be aware they can de addictive! I bought my first one in 2014 and currently have my third. Not wanting to hijack the thread, so just one question - is there a notable advantage from the blacktop engine?
Lotusgone said:
Yes...tried one. Want one.
Not wanting to hijack the thread, so just one question - is there a notable advantage from the blacktop engine?
My first one had a black-top and my second had a silver-top, and in terms of how they drove I really couldn't detect any difference!Not wanting to hijack the thread, so just one question - is there a notable advantage from the blacktop engine?
But here's a link that explains the different specification:- https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=105709&...
Apologies for the slight diversion Sam, but it's good to see E86s being appreciated!
Lotusgone said:
Yes...tried one. Want one.
Not wanting to hijack the thread, so just one question - is there a notable advantage from the blacktop engine?
No worries. Not wanting to hijack the thread, so just one question - is there a notable advantage from the blacktop engine?
I think there is less of a disadvantage of a silver top in one of these because they make the same power as the black top. In other cars there was a slight power variance.
I’ve had three silver tops and two black tops and they’re very much the same.
bodhi said:
When I had a leak from the sump of my 125i it was getting through a litre every 700 miles or so, which is evidenced by the many splodges I still have on the drive 18 months later. We'd only just moved into the house and the previous owner had repaved the driveway, so I was as popular with the wife as you'd expect.
Difference is though mine wasn't the gasket that was leaking, but the sump itself has corroded and was leaking oil. Not a particularly common issue apparently, meaning the sump was only available from BMW.
I was even less popular after the bill to fix it....
Now it's fixed I'm back over 1000 miles per litre again, so result!
I have a leak on the heat exchanger on my 125i it still only uses 1 litre in 3500 milesDifference is though mine wasn't the gasket that was leaking, but the sump itself has corroded and was leaking oil. Not a particularly common issue apparently, meaning the sump was only available from BMW.
I was even less popular after the bill to fix it....
Now it's fixed I'm back over 1000 miles per litre again, so result!
Hi Court_S,
I can't pretend I've read through all your pages on your lovely E86 but for what it's worth, here's my observations on running the older E85 3.0i:
It doesn't really need a wider (and more expensive) rear tyre. Like you I moved to 17s, but E46 Style 89 (which almost copy the Alpina 19" style). I did however add a 20mm rear spacer to fill the arch (front spacers degrade steering feel). I may one day convert my car to E46 HPAS to address EPAS steering feel limitations (but my previous E46 325ti wasn't THAT much better, and had a slower ratio rack, which I'd regret).
I happened to buy one with the Aero kit, which adds a little interest to the original form.
I'm very happy with 225/45 Michelin PS5's, and unlike the previous PS4's don't need a strong heat cycle to switch on (once the PS4 sidewalls went brown, they were surprisingly so much informative).
I do recommend a torsen ATB diff however, which I fitted to a shorter ratio E46 330i Auto 3.81:1 Diff (which the Si already has). The Blackline item is significantly cheaper than a Quaife and no problems after 15k. And the gearing makes 3rd and 4th much more usable with the M54.
I fitted new rear subframe bushes, but that was one time consuming change I wouldn't bother with unless they're visibly damaged.
I added Z4M FCAB's to increase castor and add steering weight - recomended. Also E46 ZHP front lower arms replace the outer bush with a balljoint which helps mask the deficiencies of the EPAS steering (although I'm convinced they increased the column torsion bar stiffness at LCi so less of an issue for you).
E46 CSL alignment (basically almost zero front and rear toe but also reduced rear camber) makes the chassis feel more alert whilst retaining good mid-corner lift-off stability and help that diff rotate the car under power.
And modifying the rear backbox to be straight-through really brings a welcome note under power without any drone.
I can't pretend I've read through all your pages on your lovely E86 but for what it's worth, here's my observations on running the older E85 3.0i:
It doesn't really need a wider (and more expensive) rear tyre. Like you I moved to 17s, but E46 Style 89 (which almost copy the Alpina 19" style). I did however add a 20mm rear spacer to fill the arch (front spacers degrade steering feel). I may one day convert my car to E46 HPAS to address EPAS steering feel limitations (but my previous E46 325ti wasn't THAT much better, and had a slower ratio rack, which I'd regret).
I happened to buy one with the Aero kit, which adds a little interest to the original form.
I'm very happy with 225/45 Michelin PS5's, and unlike the previous PS4's don't need a strong heat cycle to switch on (once the PS4 sidewalls went brown, they were surprisingly so much informative).
I do recommend a torsen ATB diff however, which I fitted to a shorter ratio E46 330i Auto 3.81:1 Diff (which the Si already has). The Blackline item is significantly cheaper than a Quaife and no problems after 15k. And the gearing makes 3rd and 4th much more usable with the M54.
I fitted new rear subframe bushes, but that was one time consuming change I wouldn't bother with unless they're visibly damaged.
I added Z4M FCAB's to increase castor and add steering weight - recomended. Also E46 ZHP front lower arms replace the outer bush with a balljoint which helps mask the deficiencies of the EPAS steering (although I'm convinced they increased the column torsion bar stiffness at LCi so less of an issue for you).
E46 CSL alignment (basically almost zero front and rear toe but also reduced rear camber) makes the chassis feel more alert whilst retaining good mid-corner lift-off stability and help that diff rotate the car under power.
And modifying the rear backbox to be straight-through really brings a welcome note under power without any drone.
Edited by PRN2K on Sunday 19th May 08:58
MDifficult said:
It’s so funny how many services fail to do the cabin filter when it’s normally the easiest possible job on the list!
I can almost understand skipping the last two spark plugs because they’re under the skuttle and bd to do, but skipping the cabin filter?
Makes no sense
One of the benefits of the long bonnet on the Z's is that all of the plugs are exposed.I can almost understand skipping the last two spark plugs because they’re under the skuttle and b
d to do, but skipping the cabin filter? Makes no sense
PRN2K said:
Hi Court_S,
I can't pretend I've read through all your pages on your lovely E86 but for what it's worth, here's my observations on running the older E85 3.0i:
It doesn't really need a wider (and more expensive) rear tyre. Like you I moved to 17s, but E46 Style 89 (which almost copy the Alpina 19" style). I did however add a 20mm rear spacer to fill the arch (front spacers degrade steering feel). I may one day convert my car to E46 HPAS to address EPAS steering feel limitations (but my previous E46 325ti wasn't THAT much better, and had a slower ratio rack, which I'd regret).
I happened to buy one with the Aero kit, which adds a little interest to the original form.
I'm very happy with 225/45 Michelin PS5's, and unlike the previous PS4's don't need a strong heat cycle to switch on (once the PS4 sidewalls went brown, they were surprisingly so much informative).
I do recommend a torsen ATB diff however, which I fitted to a shorter ratio E46 330i Auto 3.81:1 Diff (which the Si already has). The Blackline item is significantly cheaper than a Quaife and no problems after 15k. And the gearing makes 3rd and 4th much more usable with the M54.
I fitted new rear subframe bushes, but that was one time consuming change I wouldn't bother with unless they're visibly damaged.
I added Z4M FCAB's to increase castor and add steering weight - recomended. Also E46 ZHP front lower arms replace the outer bush with a balljoint which helps mask the deficiencies of the EPAS steering (although I'm convinced they increased the column torsion bar stiffness at LCi so less of an issue for you).
E46 CSL alignment (basically almost zero front and rear toe but also reduced rear camber) makes the chassis feel more alert whilst retaining good mid-corner lift-off stability and help that diff rotate the car under power.
And modifying the rear backbox to be straight-through really brings a welcome note under power without any drone.
Thanks for that; I ended up sticking with 18’s after everyone poo-poo’d the 17’s that I wanted. I’ve dropped down to a 245 section rear tyre though. My car has 12mm front spacers and 15mm rear spacers because the offset of the 1 series wheels would have led to an even more tucked look.I can't pretend I've read through all your pages on your lovely E86 but for what it's worth, here's my observations on running the older E85 3.0i:
It doesn't really need a wider (and more expensive) rear tyre. Like you I moved to 17s, but E46 Style 89 (which almost copy the Alpina 19" style). I did however add a 20mm rear spacer to fill the arch (front spacers degrade steering feel). I may one day convert my car to E46 HPAS to address EPAS steering feel limitations (but my previous E46 325ti wasn't THAT much better, and had a slower ratio rack, which I'd regret).
I happened to buy one with the Aero kit, which adds a little interest to the original form.
I'm very happy with 225/45 Michelin PS5's, and unlike the previous PS4's don't need a strong heat cycle to switch on (once the PS4 sidewalls went brown, they were surprisingly so much informative).
I do recommend a torsen ATB diff however, which I fitted to a shorter ratio E46 330i Auto 3.81:1 Diff (which the Si already has). The Blackline item is significantly cheaper than a Quaife and no problems after 15k. And the gearing makes 3rd and 4th much more usable with the M54.
I fitted new rear subframe bushes, but that was one time consuming change I wouldn't bother with unless they're visibly damaged.
I added Z4M FCAB's to increase castor and add steering weight - recomended. Also E46 ZHP front lower arms replace the outer bush with a balljoint which helps mask the deficiencies of the EPAS steering (although I'm convinced they increased the column torsion bar stiffness at LCi so less of an issue for you).
E46 CSL alignment (basically almost zero front and rear toe but also reduced rear camber) makes the chassis feel more alert whilst retaining good mid-corner lift-off stability and help that diff rotate the car under power.
And modifying the rear backbox to be straight-through really brings a welcome note under power without any drone.
Edited by PRN2K on Sunday 19th May 08:58
The one mistake I probably made is not fitting the Z4M front bushes when I changed the control arms. I was lazy and bought complete units.
A back box mod is something that I’m considering at some point.
Last night I took advantage of the nice evening and daylight to give the car a quick wash which looking at the forecast was pointless!
Once it was clean, it was time to sort the rear brakes. The drivers side was a bit rustier and looks rubbish behind the newly refurbished wheels.
Old disc off, pads out which looked virtually new (Brembo jobbies) but they created a lot of dust.
New ATE disc with ceramic pads fitted.
Drivers side was the same but with the addition of a new ATE wear sensor.
I had a fiddle with the handbrake adjustment, so hopefully that’ll be a bit more effective.
It didn’t take long and I thought I’d nailed it quickly, buttoned it all up and then noticed a random wheel spacer in the garage
Even accounting for fitting the forgotten drivers side spacer it took an hour and a half.
I have a feeling that the brake fluid change was as GPM’s suggestion because I can’t see any recent witness marks on the bleed nipples. Looks like I’ll be attempting a bleed soon assuming that the nipples aren’t seized!
Once it was clean, it was time to sort the rear brakes. The drivers side was a bit rustier and looks rubbish behind the newly refurbished wheels.
Old disc off, pads out which looked virtually new (Brembo jobbies) but they created a lot of dust.
New ATE disc with ceramic pads fitted.
Drivers side was the same but with the addition of a new ATE wear sensor.
I had a fiddle with the handbrake adjustment, so hopefully that’ll be a bit more effective.
It didn’t take long and I thought I’d nailed it quickly, buttoned it all up and then noticed a random wheel spacer in the garage
Even accounting for fitting the forgotten drivers side spacer it took an hour and a half.I have a feeling that the brake fluid change was as GPM’s suggestion because I can’t see any recent witness marks on the bleed nipples. Looks like I’ll be attempting a bleed soon assuming that the nipples aren’t seized!
Handbrakes on this type of setup are always annoying. All of my BMW's have had poor handbrakes. My Sprinter van has the same style of handbrake which needed adjusting for last year's MOT and that still works fine. The problem is appears to be the back plates corroding and causing friction so the shoes just don't grab properly. A friend just replaced the back plates on his E46 Touring and has a working handbrake now. Also, check the actuating lever the cable attaches to. This solved most of the problem on my E90.
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