Boxter 2002 2.7 rattle
Discussion
Hiya
Ive been fancying a boxster as a second car for about 10K and been looking about as there are loads for sale, has anyone got any tips of things to look for, also is it worth paying the extra for the S version.
I have been to look at a 2002 2.7 boxster today that has only done 44000 verfied miles but they want top price for it.
On startup you could hear the tappits rattling but the salesman said this happens on all boxters.
Can any boxster owner verify this please because the car is mint.
Ive been fancying a boxster as a second car for about 10K and been looking about as there are loads for sale, has anyone got any tips of things to look for, also is it worth paying the extra for the S version.
I have been to look at a 2002 2.7 boxster today that has only done 44000 verfied miles but they want top price for it.
On startup you could hear the tappits rattling but the salesman said this happens on all boxters.
Can any boxster owner verify this please because the car is mint.
paulli said:
Hiya
Ive been fancying a boxster as a second car for about 10K and been looking about as there are loads for sale, has anyone got any tips of things to look for, also is it worth paying the extra for the S version.
I have been to look at a 2002 2.7 boxster today that has only done 44000 verfied miles but they want top price for it.
On startup you could hear the tappits rattling but the salesman said this happens on all boxters.
Can any boxster owner verify this please because the car is mint.
I can confirm there's a bit of mechanical clatter (lifters play a role in this) at cold engine start with my 02 Boxster.Ive been fancying a boxster as a second car for about 10K and been looking about as there are loads for sale, has anyone got any tips of things to look for, also is it worth paying the extra for the S version.
I have been to look at a 2002 2.7 boxster today that has only done 44000 verfied miles but they want top price for it.
On startup you could hear the tappits rattling but the salesman said this happens on all boxters.
Can any boxster owner verify this please because the car is mint.
The noise is normal for my car.
Is this noise normal for the car you are asking about? I can't answer that.
The trouble is only someone who hears the engine start in the car you are considering and has a reference of what healthy and unhealthy Boxsters sound like can answer this question for you.
One course of action when a salesman tells you "they all do that" is ask then to listen to another Boxster engine start from cold. An 02 or a MY close to 02 as possible, but any Boxster engine would suffice as they are similar in this area (but not identical given newer models come with VarioCam Plus and this brings into play other hardware that can add to the noise level).
The noise wasnt loud but you could deff hear the tappits on tick over, one thing though when you revved it they didnt get worse just could hear them when idling.
I dont know whether it matters but the car hadnt been run for a while as it was on a garage forecourt and the battery was flat(another thing the salesman said that boxters do quickly when not used)
9/10k seems about the price for a low mileage unmarked one on autotrader. I would rather pay top price for a good one than buy a cheap one and have problems.
Is there anything else I aught to look out for
I dont know whether it matters but the car hadnt been run for a while as it was on a garage forecourt and the battery was flat(another thing the salesman said that boxters do quickly when not used)
9/10k seems about the price for a low mileage unmarked one on autotrader. I would rather pay top price for a good one than buy a cheap one and have problems.
Is there anything else I aught to look out for
paulli said:
The noise wasnt loud but you could deff hear the tappits on tick over, one thing though when you revved it they didnt get worse just could hear them when idling.
I dont know whether it matters but the car hadnt been run for a while as it was on a garage forecourt and the battery was flat(another thing the salesman said that boxters do quickly when not used)
9/10k seems about the price for a low mileage unmarked one on autotrader. I would rather pay top price for a good one than buy a cheap one and have problems.
Is there anything else I aught to look out for
The Boxster is just a used car so a thorough used car check out will go a long ways to helping you identify a car worth owning, or one not worth owning.I dont know whether it matters but the car hadnt been run for a while as it was on a garage forecourt and the battery was flat(another thing the salesman said that boxters do quickly when not used)
9/10k seems about the price for a low mileage unmarked one on autotrader. I would rather pay top price for a good one than buy a cheap one and have problems.
Is there anything else I aught to look out for
Best to start with the engine cold and as your turn the key on be sure all warning lights -- including the CEL -- come on then go off as you then start the engine.
As you have already noted the engine is a bit noisy at startup. But as others have also noted this should be brief. The engine should settle into a fast idle which should drop after a moment or two as the idling engine gains heat.
My 02 idles pretty darn smooth even from cold (and with over 267K miles on the engine).
Let the engine continue to idle while you walk around the car. Check for signs of body work, paint work, poorly fitting panels, etc, but listen to the engine for any troublesome noises.
Once the engine has idled say 10 or more minutes have the seller take you on a test ride. The route should be 15 miles or so long and cover a variety of roads so you get to experience the car in a variety of situations. City traffic, low, med to high speed cruising (while adhering to the speed laws in the area of course) and some hard acceleration runs up through at least 2 gears.
The engine should be well behaved at all times. My experience is with my 02 Boxster the engine is a very tractable engine and nothing fazes it.
After the 15 mile ride then back at the starting point you take the car out as a driver cover the same route drive the car the same way.
You have to experience the car in its natural environment. Engine running. Car being driven.
After the test ride/drive then check out everything, verify everything works.
If you still like the car then have it PPI'd. This should come *after* the test ride/drive as the use of the car gives any leaks time to make themselves evident so the PPI has a better chance of spotting a leak.
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