How-to separate and reseal your rear lights
Discussion
basherX said:
In terms of using the heat gun approach, do you just play the heat progressively around the seal until it's soft enough to pry open?
I don't have to do this yet but assume it's only a matter of time...
Yep, that’s exactly it. Just don’t get too close or be impatient. Warm it up slowly for about 5 mins and then start to slowly open the unit, applying heat as you go. It’ll be much easier with 2 people. I don't have to do this yet but assume it's only a matter of time...
John
Hi,
Finally got this done, never used the oven but bought a cheap heat gun. Light removal is very easy. Removing the cover is the most difficult bit but just take it slowly with the heater and heat around 3 inches at anybtime and pull open. Took about 30 minutes per light. Put it all back together using the materials mentioned by ds2000. Been over a week now and a good bit of rain and sunshine. Power washed also and no sign of any condensation .
Finally got this done, never used the oven but bought a cheap heat gun. Light removal is very easy. Removing the cover is the most difficult bit but just take it slowly with the heater and heat around 3 inches at anybtime and pull open. Took about 30 minutes per light. Put it all back together using the materials mentioned by ds2000. Been over a week now and a good bit of rain and sunshine. Power washed also and no sign of any condensation .
Hi All, sorry to resurrect this thread from the dead but it’s by far the best guide I have found online.
In one tail light I have condensation visible but also some strips (red) are intermittent.
I also seems to have the layer clear lights with the little mushroom looking vent thing but clearly it’s not working as intended.
Unfortunately I’m in the USA and no one repairs them here so I either have to ship to greasley, electrorep or industrial electronic repairs (FYI: Astonbits DO NOT offer a repair for these contrary to an old message in this thread) or repair them myself.
Does anyone know the specifics of the LEDs? I saw in a video from electrorep on YT that they are 2.15v but there’s no info other than that?
And has anyone personally fixed faulty PCB strips?
In one tail light I have condensation visible but also some strips (red) are intermittent.
I also seems to have the layer clear lights with the little mushroom looking vent thing but clearly it’s not working as intended.
Unfortunately I’m in the USA and no one repairs them here so I either have to ship to greasley, electrorep or industrial electronic repairs (FYI: Astonbits DO NOT offer a repair for these contrary to an old message in this thread) or repair them myself.
Does anyone know the specifics of the LEDs? I saw in a video from electrorep on YT that they are 2.15v but there’s no info other than that?
And has anyone personally fixed faulty PCB strips?
Yes, I have replaced about 40 leds on my Vantage rear light. You will need:-
1. Fine point soldering iron
2. Solder wick
3. Tweezers
4. A lot of care in removing the leds from the PCB. The small pads on the pcb are very delicate and easily broken.
5. Voltmeter to check the voltage drop across the leds( a higher or lower voltage compared with the other leds normally suggests a faulty led. Failure mode can be flickering, reduced brightness or just unlit. On my leds several even lost the lens ( fell off)
LEDS -TWO TYPES
A. Red OSRAM LS E65F (Tail and stop & fog)
B. Yellow - OSRAM LY E65B (Direction indicator) no longer manufactured
These leds are available in several brightness levels but I think that most of these will be OK because of the distributed nature of the light and the levelling effect of the lens cover. I found some of these leds but did not have much choice so I just ordered the brightest available. - see Osram data sheet for data
The red led above is a direct replacement for the original ( no longer available) and has a slightly different colour red to the originals.
My leds obtained from Mouser Electronics and Ali Express.
Hope this helps
Phil Collins
1. Fine point soldering iron
2. Solder wick
3. Tweezers
4. A lot of care in removing the leds from the PCB. The small pads on the pcb are very delicate and easily broken.
5. Voltmeter to check the voltage drop across the leds( a higher or lower voltage compared with the other leds normally suggests a faulty led. Failure mode can be flickering, reduced brightness or just unlit. On my leds several even lost the lens ( fell off)
LEDS -TWO TYPES
A. Red OSRAM LS E65F (Tail and stop & fog)
B. Yellow - OSRAM LY E65B (Direction indicator) no longer manufactured
These leds are available in several brightness levels but I think that most of these will be OK because of the distributed nature of the light and the levelling effect of the lens cover. I found some of these leds but did not have much choice so I just ordered the brightest available. - see Osram data sheet for data
The red led above is a direct replacement for the original ( no longer available) and has a slightly different colour red to the originals.
My leds obtained from Mouser Electronics and Ali Express.
Hope this helps
Phil Collins
Philipcollins340 said:
Yes, I have replaced about 40 leds on my Vantage rear light. You will need:-
1. Fine point soldering iron
2. Solder wick
3. Tweezers
4. A lot of care in removing the leds from the PCB. The small pads on the pcb are very delicate and easily broken.
5. Voltmeter to check the voltage drop across the leds( a higher or lower voltage compared with the other leds normally suggests a faulty led. Failure mode can be flickering, reduced brightness or just unlit. On my leds several even lost the lens ( fell off)
LEDS -TWO TYPES
A. Red OSRAM LS E65F (Tail and stop & fog)
B. Yellow - OSRAM LY E65B (Direction indicator) no longer manufactured
These leds are available in several brightness levels but I think that most of these will be OK because of the distributed nature of the light and the levelling effect of the lens cover. I found some of these leds but did not have much choice so I just ordered the brightest available. - see Osram data sheet for data
The red led above is a direct replacement for the original ( no longer available) and has a slightly different colour red to the originals.
My leds obtained from Mouser Electronics and Ali Express.
Hope this helps
Phil Collins
This is very helpful. Thank you. I don't suppose you took photos did you? I'd like to replace many of the orange indicator LEDs but have never tried before. Photos would help greatly.1. Fine point soldering iron
2. Solder wick
3. Tweezers
4. A lot of care in removing the leds from the PCB. The small pads on the pcb are very delicate and easily broken.
5. Voltmeter to check the voltage drop across the leds( a higher or lower voltage compared with the other leds normally suggests a faulty led. Failure mode can be flickering, reduced brightness or just unlit. On my leds several even lost the lens ( fell off)
LEDS -TWO TYPES
A. Red OSRAM LS E65F (Tail and stop & fog)
B. Yellow - OSRAM LY E65B (Direction indicator) no longer manufactured
These leds are available in several brightness levels but I think that most of these will be OK because of the distributed nature of the light and the levelling effect of the lens cover. I found some of these leds but did not have much choice so I just ordered the brightest available. - see Osram data sheet for data
The red led above is a direct replacement for the original ( no longer available) and has a slightly different colour red to the originals.
My leds obtained from Mouser Electronics and Ali Express.
Hope this helps
Phil Collins
Gassing Station | Aston Martin | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff