Scimitar GTE RV8 4HA axel swap technical info needed
Discussion
Original post: Scimitar GTE rV8
last week sometime...
Morning everyone Sorry for the lack of contact, it's been a mental week...
On saturday I took the boys out for a drive in the Scimitar and hit a pot hole snapping the passenger side rear axel couple, that connects to the coil over suspension arm.
Managed to get a friend to pick up kids and limp the car home as luckily not too far from home. Managed to find a replacement 4HA salisbury axel the next day from a gentlemen down the coast, which I picked up on Sunday.
So I've dropped the axel out of the car and opened the dif to find there is an LSD in really good nick so ive decided to transplant it over to the new 4HA. So I need some help and recommendations on the below...
So I need rear diff case gasket,front pinion flange seal; or front prop flange seal and both half 2 shaft seals & may not need those as it looked like they may of been replaced recently. Also it’s got all new brakes on the rear which I’m going to swap over. I may not need to remove the half shaft flanges as I may undo back plate bolts pull the whole lot out in one piece that’s if seals are new
Does anyone have any info on torque settings for rear diff caps on both axels please?
last week sometime...
Morning everyone Sorry for the lack of contact, it's been a mental week...
On saturday I took the boys out for a drive in the Scimitar and hit a pot hole snapping the passenger side rear axel couple, that connects to the coil over suspension arm.
Managed to get a friend to pick up kids and limp the car home as luckily not too far from home. Managed to find a replacement 4HA salisbury axel the next day from a gentlemen down the coast, which I picked up on Sunday.
So I've dropped the axel out of the car and opened the dif to find there is an LSD in really good nick so ive decided to transplant it over to the new 4HA. So I need some help and recommendations on the below...
So I need rear diff case gasket,front pinion flange seal; or front prop flange seal and both half 2 shaft seals & may not need those as it looked like they may of been replaced recently. Also it’s got all new brakes on the rear which I’m going to swap over. I may not need to remove the half shaft flanges as I may undo back plate bolts pull the whole lot out in one piece that’s if seals are new
Does anyone have any info on torque settings for rear diff caps on both axels please?
I didn’t need a spreader when I did mine I found an old manual via Google with lots of info
It’s not a 5 min job as all the bearing are shimmed
Ideally you need another set of bearings with the middle eased to they slip on and off ,so they can be used as set up bearings before fitting the final set ,I found it virtually impossible to remove them without the specialist puller
Pinion height is also tricky and also need a special torque wrench that measures drag
Hubs are fun to remove as well I used a hydraulic puller
It’s not a 5 min job as all the bearing are shimmed
Ideally you need another set of bearings with the middle eased to they slip on and off ,so they can be used as set up bearings before fitting the final set ,I found it virtually impossible to remove them without the specialist puller
Pinion height is also tricky and also need a special torque wrench that measures drag
Hubs are fun to remove as well I used a hydraulic puller
I used to rebuild these over 30 years ago.
My employer had purchased a rebuilt Scimitar axle which had a yard of play in it, I owned a Lotus also with a noisy diff’, we bought the Sykes Pickavant tools and I set to, armed with Reliant and Lotus manuals.
Its not a task that can be done successfully without the correct equipment and a fair amount of skill.
Setting the pinion height is crucial and you may need a number of shims and crushable spacers before you get it set correctly. IIRC I used a dial gauge with a magnetic base plus I borrowed a set of slip gauges from the toolmakers over the road. You’ll need engineers blue, a micrometer and vernier etc too
Instead of a tiny torque wrench to check the pinion drag, I used a fishermans scale, recalibrated correctly then used string around the pinion nose.
Some of this can be done by feel but you’ll need a lot of experience to be successful.
I believe that some parts are hard to come by nowadays.
I have seen the work of some ‘professional’ axle rebuilders and they can be pretty sloppy so care is needed if the job is farmed out.
My employer had purchased a rebuilt Scimitar axle which had a yard of play in it, I owned a Lotus also with a noisy diff’, we bought the Sykes Pickavant tools and I set to, armed with Reliant and Lotus manuals.
Its not a task that can be done successfully without the correct equipment and a fair amount of skill.
Setting the pinion height is crucial and you may need a number of shims and crushable spacers before you get it set correctly. IIRC I used a dial gauge with a magnetic base plus I borrowed a set of slip gauges from the toolmakers over the road. You’ll need engineers blue, a micrometer and vernier etc too
Instead of a tiny torque wrench to check the pinion drag, I used a fishermans scale, recalibrated correctly then used string around the pinion nose.
Some of this can be done by feel but you’ll need a lot of experience to be successful.
I believe that some parts are hard to come by nowadays.
I have seen the work of some ‘professional’ axle rebuilders and they can be pretty sloppy so care is needed if the job is farmed out.
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