JFReturn's VX220 2.2 NA

JFReturn's VX220 2.2 NA

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vxnath

8 posts

159 months

Tuesday 17th April 2012
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those are rad pipes. they rum along the whole length of the pax sill

JFReturns

Original Poster:

3,697 posts

172 months

Tuesday 17th April 2012
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Cheers. I'll have another look saturday, maybe taking off the sill covers or sills (?) for better access.

JFReturns

Original Poster:

3,697 posts

172 months

Thursday 19th April 2012
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She might clonk, but having just driven through a monsoon, I can confirm Vicky VX doesn't leak! biggrin


JFReturns

Original Poster:

3,697 posts

172 months

Monday 23rd April 2012
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Another weekend working on OA-S, another weekend of getting blindingly frustrated. The clonk ain't the rad hose as it is secured tighter than a snare drum.

I had some great suggestions from VX220.org.uk - there is a YouTube clip demonstrating the clonk it that thread. I've brought some ramps so I can get under the VX safely and remove the undertray and take a closer look.

Also been in touch with Back On Track as I'm planning a trip over there to give the VX a good service and check over so if I haven't figured it out I'll leave it to the experts.

JFReturns

Original Poster:

3,697 posts

172 months

Monday 30th April 2012
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Small update of sorts - I've given up on the clonk and booked it into Plans Motorsport to fix. I'll probably get them to do a full service too as it's a fair trek for me.

Some positives though - I've learned how to jack the car up properly from the back (the rear undertray needs removing) which enabled me to take the rear wheels off to get re-valved. Good job as all four wheels were 10 PSI down! The VX drives so much better with correctly inflated tyres.... Also got a few niggly jobs done like resticking the velcro strips in the boot and tidying the light switch panel. I've even ordered a few more buttons from a Vectra to replace my old ones.

Also gave it a good clean and fresh coat of wax, heres some pics to stop this post being dull biggrin




TVR MAN

1,038 posts

223 months

Monday 30th April 2012
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Love your garage! TV!

Car is looking good.

Any more info on jacking the car up at the rear? Did you use axle stands? if so where did you place them?

Also, how do you get the undertray off without first jacking? and do you have a low entry jack?

loads of questions!

I've got some days off work in a couple of weeks and I'm planning on spending some time on the VX.

I want to:

Replace the toe links
Replace Header Tank
Thoroughly clean the arches and wheels inside and out
Paint the brake calipers (black with the Ap Racing part polished sliver then lacquered)
Remove lights, paint black inside and reseal
Repair bonnet stay where it has cracked the fibreglass
Fit new wiper relay
Vinyl cover front V and windscreen surround
Polish and then loads of layers of my G3 paste wax courtesy of an evo mag subscription
Perhaps seal up the heater box.

All this will probably amount to nothing when I release I am too incompetent to do any of these jobs!

Oh and I also have to replace my 3/4 size front number plate after the police having a word on a PH run at the weekend!

JFReturns

Original Poster:

3,697 posts

172 months

Monday 30th April 2012
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Heh, yeah the TV is knackered but still plays DVDs and CDs so I chucked it up in the garage instead of throwing out. Keeps me entertained biggrin

Anyway, jacking points. I found this image which helps:



If you want to jack the rear you need to use points D. To get to these you need to remove the rearmost undertray (easy enough; about 10 small bolts, two big ones and two side plugs). To help with safe access to these I brought two wide, low entry point ramps:



Once the undertray was off I took it off the ramps. The 'D' jacking points were a little tight - I could get my jack under but no piece of wood (I've not got a low entry jack) so I used a little scissor jack in the normal 'A' jacking position to raise it an inch or so. You can use an axel stand on the other 'D' jacking point if you like.

I think that covers everything I did, but fire any more questions away. Don't forget to get the locking nut key out before jacking hehe

That is a huge list of work to do, best of luck! Let us know how you get on.

EDIT: Jacking point image not working, uploaded instead.

Edited by JFReturns on Tuesday 1st May 09:47

TVR MAN

1,038 posts

223 months

Tuesday 1st May 2012
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Thanks for that. Think I'll try and jack it up at the side then put some slabs under the wheels then do the same at the other side to get under for the undertray. I don't do work like this often enough to justify ramps and a low entry jack unfortunately.

JFReturns

Original Poster:

3,697 posts

172 months

Friday 4th May 2012
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Update - cause of the clonks: GAZ Gold suspension. Are they shagged? Nope, just not very good! Bugger. To be honest, I've been thinking about returning the suspension to standard as the ride is just too hard for me and my creaking neck (handles fantastically though!).

I was impressed with Plans Motorsport*. As the dealer I brought the VX from 'serviced' it I got Plans to do a full 4th/8th year service done including sparks, oil (fully synthetic Mobil 1 Motorsport 10w/60), clutch and brakes bleed. There were a few other jobs like replace nearside front ball joint, stripping and cleaning a caliper and replacing the reverse light switch.

Total cost: £445.72. All done whilst I waited. I'll be going back there shortly to sort the suspension and fit an induction kit. Oh and to get them to stamp my service book as I forgot it getmecoat

There were some seriously nice motors on show round the complex, including a PH'ers stage 4 VX Turbo (hi if you're reading this!). It was cool seeing the Top Gear track etc, I could have had a lap or two but McClaren had booked the track out. I saw a couple of MP4-12Cs driving around, they really do look and sound amazing in the metal. One day cloud9

* Note there was a large clonking sound as I drove from the garage. I opened the engine bay to find the mechanic had left his torch in there! See, even the professionals do it biggrin


Edited by JFReturns on Friday 4th May 20:07

TVR MAN

1,038 posts

223 months

Monday 7th May 2012
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JFReturns said:
Total cost: £445.72.
Ouch! Still, a fair amount of work done.

I made a little bit of progress on OA-S. Turns out that inside my driver's door were 4 allen head screws rattling around! Still haven't quite got the door cards on perfectly but they'll do for just now.

I have however developed yet another new rattle! And it's quite a bad one! I think it is to do with the exhaust heat shield. I lost the little bit that protects the number plate and I think it might actually have fallen into the heatshield or something!

JFReturns

Original Poster:

3,697 posts

172 months

Monday 7th May 2012
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Are the door cards easy to get off? I need to check the windows as they are rattling when open.

Access to the exhaust heat shield is quite easy, you need to take off the rear most undertray then get under the car look around. Ramps would make it easier and safer wink

TVR MAN

1,038 posts

223 months

Monday 7th May 2012
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The door cards are a bit of a pain and as usual with my jobs there are points where I wish I had never started. Don't let that put you off though!

There is a guide on vx220.org.uk.

My advice:

Rearmost triangle comes off first. It is held on by one screw on the side and then three "fir tree clips" which really take quite a pull to get them out. Be careful not to break the panels as they are a sort of hard foam. This will give you a taster of the force involved to pop these clips off.

The main panel has loads of these clips and for a while I simply could not pull them hard enough to get them off! Work from the back forwards and then eventually when you get to the handle guard there are a couple of other clips that need to be pulled out.

I think I then differed from the guide as I was able to manoeuvre the handle guard off before the main door card.

After that you are done and have access to the window mechanism etc. The void is covered by plastic held on by ridiculously sticky glue.

Some people have suggested buying new clips but I was able to re-use the old ones.

smile

drgoatboy

1,631 posts

208 months

Thursday 10th May 2012
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JFReturns said:
Update - cause of the clonks: GAZ Gold suspension. Are they shagged? Nope, just not very good! Bugger. To be honest, I've been thinking about returning the suspension to standard as the ride is just too hard for me and my creaking neck (handles fantastically though!).
If you are going to go back to standard shocks bilstein will refurbish shocks for you. Can't remember the exact amount but I had 4 done for about the same price as a new set of Gaz shocks. Mine were pretty much knackered after 60k miles and the difference before and after refurb was astounishing. not exactly a pillow soft ride though...

I did post on .org about it at the time (which was some years ago to be fair) but for some reason I can't logon there anymore...

JFReturns

Original Poster:

3,697 posts

172 months

Saturday 12th May 2012
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drgoatboy said:
If you are going to go back to standard shocks bilstein will refurbish shocks for you. Can't remember the exact amount but I had 4 done for about the same price as a new set of Gaz shocks. Mine were pretty much knackered after 60k miles and the difference before and after refurb was astounishing. not exactly a pillow soft ride though...

I did post on .org about it at the time (which was some years ago to be fair) but for some reason I can't logon there anymore...
Cheers for the info. I've done a bit of digging and GAZ will refurb my coilovers for free as they are less than two years old. Luckily they are quite near to me in Essex, so I'm going to drive over there on Tuesday instead of removing and posting them. They have garage facilities and have worked on a VX220 before, but I'll show them the jacking points anyway teacher

JFReturns

Original Poster:

3,697 posts

172 months

Saturday 12th May 2012
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I AM A MAN AND I FIX THINGS *beats chest like a big silverback gorilla.*

Alright so it was only a couple of buttons, but I'm still pleased with myself. Here is the light switch panel before:



As you can see, the sidelight button bulb was dead and the hazard button broken. I did a bit of research and the Vectra has similar buttons. The front panel of the hazard switch was an easy replacement, whilst the Vectra's air conditioning unit has the same connector pattern as the VX220 sidelight. I just needed to pop off the front cover and switch them around.



I also tried connecting the bonnet switch back on as it is loose, but it seems the mounting is completely broken. It is welded on, so no idea how to replace this.

Oh and access was a nightmare. Guess how I got round the problem - mirrors, small video feed? Nope, you are wrong. I indulged in a little VX gymnastics biggrin



I've done my neck doing in it though!

paulmoonraker

2,850 posts

164 months

Saturday 12th May 2012
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rofl good effort and looks good. Very funny picture.

JFReturns

Original Poster:

3,697 posts

172 months

Tuesday 15th May 2012
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Well, this is one of the best updates I'm likely to make.....

Firstly, apologies if you have read this on .org already, I do try and avoid cross forum posting. The clonk has finally been fixed, here is how (settle down and get a nice cup of tea).

So, when the VX was at Plans for the service, they diagnosed my GAZ Golds as the cause of the clonk. I was under the impression they were less than two years old (I was wrong, more on this in a bit) and did a bit of research. Turns out that GAZ offer a two year warranty on their shocks and offer a rebuild service. As they were quite close to me I booked an appointment for them to take a look and discuss my options. I also got in touch with the dealer I purchased the car from as it was still within warranty, but they weren't really interested as dampers are not covered under the warranty terms. I argued a little, and they were prepared to help out with my costs as a good will gesture.

This morning my alarm goes off at 6, I'm up and out the house by 7. I have a decent enough journey over the Dartford crossing onto my destination in Essex, and get to GAZ by 8. I was expecting to have to wait around for them to open but I'm immediately greeted by a chap called Warren who jumps (or should I say falls, ungracefully biggrin ) into the passenger seat for a run round the block to listen to the clonk.

Once back we get the VX onto their ramp where one of the dampers was whipped off. Straight away Warren realised they were not GAZ Golds, but Nickels, and the manufacture date was 2008 so they were four years old! I felt really bad for misinforming him on the phone, but I did believe they were Golds and less than two years old. Despite this, and despite any warranty being non-transferable, Warren replaced all four of my dampers for brand spanking new MK2 GAZ Gold Pros completely free of charge.... eek

With all the lows my fiancee have being going through with redundancies etc this was absolutely great, great news. To say I am happy is understatement of the year.

So, onto the dampers - the difference is like night and day. Firstly, the clonk has gone (bliss!), and the ride and handling is sublime. The Gold Pros fitted were a MK2 design so you can't buy them yet, but they feel great. Whereas before I avoided any road imperfections, now I have no worry as they are silently dampened with no intrusive crashing within the cabin. The ride is firm but very supple, and I now understand what Barker, Meaden, Catchpole et al mean when they describe a car's ride / handling compromise as 'nuggety'.

There is no roll within corners, really none, and the VX feels taut and dialed into the road. The twitchiness I experienced has gone and I feel much more comfortable with the feedback I am receiving.

I need to take the VX back in a couple of weeks for some adjustments once they settle and I'll keep all you readers up to date with my experiences.

A couple of pics, before and after and fitted:






biggrinbiggrinbiggrin

drgoatboy

1,631 posts

208 months

Wednesday 16th May 2012
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wow, awesome service from Gaz.
Replacing old worn dampers for new ones is always and amazing difference, very glad you are pleased with it!

JFReturns

Original Poster:

3,697 posts

172 months

Wednesday 16th May 2012
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I know! Very happy with that as I have one of only two sets in the world!

Note that this was very much a one off, GAZ do no usually replace four year old shocks with brand new ones free of charge, but they do offer a rebuild service which is a reasonable price IMO. And very cool, they use a stethoscope to diagnose the parts required without even disassembling the shock.

TVR MAN

1,038 posts

223 months

Saturday 26th May 2012
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You lucky bd!!!

I was over at Scottish Lotus Specialists today and I had the toe links replaced, alternator belt replaced, coolant header tank replaced and a poly insert fitted to the front engine mount. I haven't driven it properly yet as the steering wheel doesn't point straight after the toe links but already I can tell it is going to be awesome when I get the geo done. I've now just about got every little niggle or problem sorted.

The poly insert makes a huge difference to the engine response and heel and toeing is so much easier now! Thankfully I have not noticed any real increase in idle vibrations. In fact it feels better when starting up the engine as it doesn't move so much.