Discussion
I went into my local factors yesterday to pick up a couple of wheel bearings for the 350i. Whilst I was in there I got chatting about half-shaft refurbishment. Although they said they could either refurbish or get parts for the universal joints they were a bit cagey about availability.
I'm happy to do the refurb myself but don't want to dismantle the UJ and then find they can't get the correct size of cup for me.
Does anyone have a good reliable source who would be able to get the parts out to me pronto without having to wait for stock to come in or anything silly like that?
Hope to get the half-shaft off tonight and order tomorrow.
Cheers
Adi
I'm happy to do the refurb myself but don't want to dismantle the UJ and then find they can't get the correct size of cup for me.
Does anyone have a good reliable source who would be able to get the parts out to me pronto without having to wait for stock to come in or anything silly like that?
Hope to get the half-shaft off tonight and order tomorrow.
Cheers
Adi
That there's that one and one other size - so big or small.
They are very standard items so any motor factor worth his salt can get them.
If you take the driveshaft they can measure it and confirm which one.
These are the two sizes:
Drive shaft u/j - Hardy spicer - HS163 - Heavy duty version with g/nipple. - Quinton Hazel - QL2104.
Drive shaft u/j - Hardy spicer - HS179 - or GKN18200 - Uprated (large) version with g/nipple.
Always worth checking in the parts list at the top that's where I found this....
They are very standard items so any motor factor worth his salt can get them.
If you take the driveshaft they can measure it and confirm which one.
These are the two sizes:
Drive shaft u/j - Hardy spicer - HS163 - Heavy duty version with g/nipple. - Quinton Hazel - QL2104.
Drive shaft u/j - Hardy spicer - HS179 - or GKN18200 - Uprated (large) version with g/nipple.
Always worth checking in the parts list at the top that's where I found this....
Edited by adam quantrill on Wednesday 4th June 08:01
Thanks guys.
I had a look at the drive shafts this evening and it looks like a fairly major bit of work to remove one in respect of the fact that the lower shock bolt on the hub mounting needs to come out and the other similar bolt on the front side of the hub mounting.Only 2 bolts, I know. But the spring will need clamping etc and I suspect that the bolts are a wotsit to remove.
I did remove the nuts which hold the inner end of the shaft to the disc. They were easy enough.
I have also attempted to measure the cup diameter and the overall length. So I will check that against the spec of the 2 parts that have been mentioned.
The factors were expressing concern over accurate measurement of the UJ stating that some are very close in dimension to others so if yoiu get it just a bit wrong you could be stuffed. But, I guess, they're not that expensive so if I order them tomorrow I will have them for the weekend (rain or not!!)
Any of you guys actually taken the half shaft off before? Is it fairly straight forward?
A.
I had a look at the drive shafts this evening and it looks like a fairly major bit of work to remove one in respect of the fact that the lower shock bolt on the hub mounting needs to come out and the other similar bolt on the front side of the hub mounting.Only 2 bolts, I know. But the spring will need clamping etc and I suspect that the bolts are a wotsit to remove.
I did remove the nuts which hold the inner end of the shaft to the disc. They were easy enough.
I have also attempted to measure the cup diameter and the overall length. So I will check that against the spec of the 2 parts that have been mentioned.
The factors were expressing concern over accurate measurement of the UJ stating that some are very close in dimension to others so if yoiu get it just a bit wrong you could be stuffed. But, I guess, they're not that expensive so if I order them tomorrow I will have them for the weekend (rain or not!!)
Any of you guys actually taken the half shaft off before? Is it fairly straight forward?
A.
Yes many times. First just order from the HS part numbers above. Either big or small there is no way you can get the wrong one if you use the HS numbers.
Are you 'A' frame or trailing arm? Either way you can do it in situ and no need for spring compressors. Let me know and I'll point you to the right method.
Also some general nipple tips while I wait for your reply:
1. Install the UJ's with the grease nipples towards the middle of the driveshaft or else they are a pain to get the grease gun onto.
2. If you make both grease nipples "line up" so you can see them both at the same time it saves time too when greasing because you can do both in one hit without rotating the shaft.
I really hate it when her nipples are pointing outwards, even worse when they are pointing in completely different directions! Ahem.
OK I've read through the driveshaft article from the FAQ and it talks bout both types:
UJ+Replacement
Either way you can do it all without undoing the hub nut.
Are you 'A' frame or trailing arm? Either way you can do it in situ and no need for spring compressors. Let me know and I'll point you to the right method.
Also some general nipple tips while I wait for your reply:
1. Install the UJ's with the grease nipples towards the middle of the driveshaft or else they are a pain to get the grease gun onto.
2. If you make both grease nipples "line up" so you can see them both at the same time it saves time too when greasing because you can do both in one hit without rotating the shaft.
I really hate it when her nipples are pointing outwards, even worse when they are pointing in completely different directions! Ahem.
OK I've read through the driveshaft article from the FAQ and it talks bout both types:
UJ+Replacement
Either way you can do it all without undoing the hub nut.
Edited by adam quantrill on Wednesday 4th June 21:09
adam quantrill said:
Always worth checking in the parts list at the top that's where I found this....
Sorry Adam. You're right.I normally do, which is why I commented some time back that we should add info to it and also mention good suppliers etc.
In this case I've been in such a flap because I've got Le Mans next week that I forgot!!!
Adi
adam quantrill said:
Like I said ;^) nipples pointing inwards every time.
That's what I tell the wife!!Funnily enough I have been searching the interweb looking for UJ sizes to see if I could determine which of the 2 sizes I had fitted to the car.
I found a very useful GKN document which had a table showing UJ's by size. My sizes seemed to come up with 2 possibles. 7260 or 131N. Although they give all sorts of make of UJ in the table the lack of another name seems to suggest that these are GKN codes. But I could be wrong!
I'm trying to find something that tells me the sizes of the codes you listed.
Adi
Almost certainly the bigger ones then - smaller ones were in earlier trailing-arm 350i's up to around 1988 and I uprated my first one to bigger ones back in the day. Bearing cap diameter is probably the best confirmation.
A £2 coin is 28.4 mm diameter so it should fit into the hole for the big one, but not into the cap hole (yoke hole) for the small one.
A £2 coin is 28.4 mm diameter so it should fit into the hole for the big one, but not into the cap hole (yoke hole) for the small one.
Edited by adam quantrill on Wednesday 4th June 22:43
adam quantrill said:
Almost certainly the bigger ones then - smaller ones were in earlier trailing-arm 350i's up to around 1988 and I uprated my first one to bigger ones back in the day. Bearing cap diameter is probably the best confirmation.
A £2 coin is 28.4 mm diameter so it should fit into the hole for the big one, but not into the cap hole (yoke hole) for the small one.
I measured the inside where the circlip is and reckon it measured about 26.5-27mm. I also measured the overall and got approx 82mm. That relates to the smaller ones.A £2 coin is 28.4 mm diameter so it should fit into the hole for the big one, but not into the cap hole (yoke hole) for the small one.
Edited by adam quantrill on Wednesday 4th June 22:43
Also read some comment about the possibility of the heavy duty ones perhaps not fitting. But I assume that has since been tried and is OK..
A.
The Prop-shaft Takes the smaller ones, so compare with that.
Also you want to measure from the cup not inside the circlip.
Also remove the grease nipples, when taking them in and out, as this will make it easier.
I've just put The up-rated ones in and some went in ok, others I needed to file a tiny tiny bit of the inner cups for them to fit, just do a quick test of them all once they are all out with one of the new UJ's 1st.
For peace of mind, I'd take the whole shaft out, and change them both. (leave the hub nut on, i.e. leave the shaft connected to the hub, and remove 3 bolts, leave shock connected to spring (no need to compress))
Depending on how easy the bolts come out your looking at 1-3 days.
Also you want to measure from the cup not inside the circlip.
Also remove the grease nipples, when taking them in and out, as this will make it easier.
I've just put The up-rated ones in and some went in ok, others I needed to file a tiny tiny bit of the inner cups for them to fit, just do a quick test of them all once they are all out with one of the new UJ's 1st.
For peace of mind, I'd take the whole shaft out, and change them both. (leave the hub nut on, i.e. leave the shaft connected to the hub, and remove 3 bolts, leave shock connected to spring (no need to compress))
Depending on how easy the bolts come out your looking at 1-3 days.
Edited by TVRleigh_BBWR on Thursday 5th June 00:37
TVRleigh_BBWR said:
The Prop-shaft Takes the smaller ones, so compare with that.
Also you want to measure from the cup not inside the circlip.
Also remove the grease nipples, when taking them in and out, as this will make it easier.
I've just put The up-rated ones in and some went in ok, others I needed to file a tiny tiny bit of the inner cups for them to fit, just do a quick test of them all once they are all out with one of the new UJ's 1st.
For peace of mind, I'd take the whole shaft out, and change them both. (leave the hub nut on, i.e. leave the shaft connected to the hub, and remove 3 bolts, leave shock connected to spring (no need to compress))
Depending on how easy the bolts come out your looking at 1-3 days.
Thanks I can check.Also you want to measure from the cup not inside the circlip.
Also remove the grease nipples, when taking them in and out, as this will make it easier.
I've just put The up-rated ones in and some went in ok, others I needed to file a tiny tiny bit of the inner cups for them to fit, just do a quick test of them all once they are all out with one of the new UJ's 1st.
For peace of mind, I'd take the whole shaft out, and change them both. (leave the hub nut on, i.e. leave the shaft connected to the hub, and remove 3 bolts, leave shock connected to spring (no need to compress))
Depending on how easy the bolts come out your looking at 1-3 days.
Edited by TVRleigh_BBWR on Thursday 5th June 00:37
Unfortunately, for the same reason I can't get the grease gun onto the grease nipple I am also having trouble getting them out. I will have another go.
I plan to take the whole shaft out and will probably do both UJ's although I might limit it to the outer one before my trip and the inner one after just in case I encounter problems!
Do you mean 1-3 days including getting hold of parts?
Adi
Doing the inner on one side on mine took about 5 hours. I could have added the outer too for another hour (but that is fairly new so no need). This was A-frame and I left the hub attached to the car so no fighting with the bottom link bolts into the hub. See the picture on that post. Once it is swivelled out quite easy to work on.
Toby Tram said:
Thanks I can check.
Unfortunately, for the same reason I can't get the grease gun onto the grease nipple I am also having trouble getting them out. I will have another go.
I plan to take the whole shaft out and will probably do both UJ's although I might limit it to the outer one before my trip and the inner one after just in case I encounter problems!
Do you mean 1-3 days including getting hold of parts?
Adi
No, 1-3 days just doing the work, it all depends on when the bolts was last out, you could spends hours on each bolt. you could do them with help in a day if everything went well. but then you may have to cut the bolts out, if there stuck in the shock, hub or suspension arms, then have the press the bolts bit out, and them get replacement bolts.Unfortunately, for the same reason I can't get the grease gun onto the grease nipple I am also having trouble getting them out. I will have another go.
I plan to take the whole shaft out and will probably do both UJ's although I might limit it to the outer one before my trip and the inner one after just in case I encounter problems!
Do you mean 1-3 days including getting hold of parts?
Adi
It's worth getting replacement bolts also if current ones have rusted or pitted. also best to fit new nylocs regardless.
What trip you going on, maybe best to leave them and do them all in one go, when you come back, will be lots easier to do them all together than have to strip them again.
ETA some pics
Edited by TVRleigh_BBWR on Thursday 5th June 12:16
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