2003 Mercedes W209 CLK55 AMG daily driver
Discussion
Really appreciate the comments guys and just back from a drive, I can report:
1) no ticking noise (like a loud clock) when pushing the accelerator pedal while stationary, so not the engine, phew.
2) less noise if starting the car and going for a drive with the interior fan set at 0. However, no change when turning the fan on + a/c off or on.
3) sounds worse if going for a drive with the interior fan on when starting up.
4) ticking speed increases while accelerating and the sound goes away when lifting off the throttle.
5) sometimes there is a slapping sounding noise in the middle of the dash.
Hahaha seems ridiculous reading this back
1) no ticking noise (like a loud clock) when pushing the accelerator pedal while stationary, so not the engine, phew.
2) less noise if starting the car and going for a drive with the interior fan set at 0. However, no change when turning the fan on + a/c off or on.
3) sounds worse if going for a drive with the interior fan on when starting up.
4) ticking speed increases while accelerating and the sound goes away when lifting off the throttle.
5) sometimes there is a slapping sounding noise in the middle of the dash.
Hahaha seems ridiculous reading this back
Edited by fastgerman on Thursday 9th November 14:15
It may be that the stuff with the fan is just that the fan being on is allowing you to better hear the noise, say, from the engine bay and is not associated with the fan itself?
May be it could be something to do with fuel delivery, as I presume there is a lot less fuel delivered when the car is stationary and the engine rev'd, than when it has to accelerate the mass of the car, though I'm not sure how an autobox and its different modes e.g. P or N affects this? Also, fuel delivery would be stopped when you lift off.
Given that it is load related, I suppose it could be some kind of mechanical coupling that only causes a problem when torque is applied, but I'm struggling to think how that would produce a ticking sound and one that comes from the dashboard area (edited to add: though perhaps the torque converter/gearbox is close enough?)
May be it could be something to do with fuel delivery, as I presume there is a lot less fuel delivered when the car is stationary and the engine rev'd, than when it has to accelerate the mass of the car, though I'm not sure how an autobox and its different modes e.g. P or N affects this? Also, fuel delivery would be stopped when you lift off.
Given that it is load related, I suppose it could be some kind of mechanical coupling that only causes a problem when torque is applied, but I'm struggling to think how that would produce a ticking sound and one that comes from the dashboard area (edited to add: though perhaps the torque converter/gearbox is close enough?)
Edited by trevalvole on Friday 10th November 11:40
Thanks and yes perhaps on the fan just amplifying something else.
Here’s a vid, you can hear the ticking sounds in the first 10 seconds then not when I’m coasting - https://youtu.be/ofVz1ZR6w0U?si=mBYfyElP21vYEAWw
Here’s a vid, you can hear the ticking sounds in the first 10 seconds then not when I’m coasting - https://youtu.be/ofVz1ZR6w0U?si=mBYfyElP21vYEAWw
Edited by fastgerman on Friday 10th November 14:18
I've watched the video, but am not able to suggest anything as a result.
However, I recall that the 5G transmission typically only locks up the torque converter in the top three gears. So you could find a quiet road, put the transmission in manual and accelerate and lift off in different gears. If you get different results in, say, 3, 4 & 5 to 1 & 2, e.g. it is constant in 1 & 2, but only when accelerating in 3, 4 & 5, then that might point to the torque converter.
However, I recall that the 5G transmission typically only locks up the torque converter in the top three gears. So you could find a quiet road, put the transmission in manual and accelerate and lift off in different gears. If you get different results in, say, 3, 4 & 5 to 1 & 2, e.g. it is constant in 1 & 2, but only when accelerating in 3, 4 & 5, then that might point to the torque converter.
Thanks for the suggestions guys and a fun watch here - https://youtu.be/1n2uKWeisgU?si=TxDKUJzq0ByAWMDA
Matt mentions the stepper motors on the dash clicking but that’s already been dealt with.
So, I took the car up to motorway speeds and same noises at faster frequency. The sound also goes when lifting off the throttle.
Possibilities - Flex Disk, Spark plug loose, headers/heat shield
Links:
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class-w209/806737-c...
I think it’s going to have to go in again…
Matt mentions the stepper motors on the dash clicking but that’s already been dealt with.
So, I took the car up to motorway speeds and same noises at faster frequency. The sound also goes when lifting off the throttle.
Possibilities - Flex Disk, Spark plug loose, headers/heat shield
Links:
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class-w209/806737-c...
I think it’s going to have to go in again…
A bit more testing today during a 50 mile run and I’m wondering if it’s the alternator:
- Battery replaced a week or so ago and the mechanic said the old battery was too small.
- Burning electrics smell in the cabin.
- Ticking noise is based on engine rpm and not wheel speed. If I change up and down gear at a constant speed it affects the ticking noise.
- Ticking noise still disappears when lifting off the throttle.
Thoughts?
- Battery replaced a week or so ago and the mechanic said the old battery was too small.
- Burning electrics smell in the cabin.
- Ticking noise is based on engine rpm and not wheel speed. If I change up and down gear at a constant speed it affects the ticking noise.
- Ticking noise still disappears when lifting off the throttle.
Thoughts?
fastgerman said:
A bit more testing today during a 50 mile run and I’m wondering if it’s the alternator:
- Battery replaced a week or so ago and the mechanic said the old battery was too small.
- Burning electrics smell in the cabin.
- Ticking noise is based on engine rpm and not wheel speed. If I change up and down gear at a constant speed it affects the ticking noise.
- Ticking noise still disappears when lifting off the throttle.
Thoughts?
As I think it will be too old a car to have anything like throttle-dependent battery charging, I'm struggling to see how a fault on the alternator could be affected by lifting off the throttle. It seems to me that you've got something that:- Battery replaced a week or so ago and the mechanic said the old battery was too small.
- Burning electrics smell in the cabin.
- Ticking noise is based on engine rpm and not wheel speed. If I change up and down gear at a constant speed it affects the ticking noise.
- Ticking noise still disappears when lifting off the throttle.
Thoughts?
1. Varies with engine speed, so could be the engine or the engine-speed bits of the gearbox;
2. Is either associated with the throttle e.g. fuel injection, or a consequence of the throttle e.g. torque being applied.
fastgerman said:
Quick update - just passed into the 80k mile zone, 2,000 miles have cost me about £2,000...
Well I have new tyres, big service incl. spark plugs and lots of parts that are rebuilt or refurbished.
I am still enjoying the car overall, a great sound track, good acceleration and cruising ability makes up for the niggles.
I feel that the next thing is going to be the roof, although fairly minor. I need to help the rear cover into place by pulling it towards the boot and slotting it behind the rear headrests. It looks like a spring has broken.
Any recommendations for soft top mechanisms near Guildford?
Cayman Auto's in Redhill, it's all they do, had my R129 with them and would recommend. Well I have new tyres, big service incl. spark plugs and lots of parts that are rebuilt or refurbished.
I am still enjoying the car overall, a great sound track, good acceleration and cruising ability makes up for the niggles.
I feel that the next thing is going to be the roof, although fairly minor. I need to help the rear cover into place by pulling it towards the boot and slotting it behind the rear headrests. It looks like a spring has broken.
Any recommendations for soft top mechanisms near Guildford?
Edited by fastgerman on Wednesday 25th October 19:42
Thanks for the replies guys, booked in to SE Autoworks in Guildford who have started looking after my 2015 S4 also. Will give Cayman Autos a go once the weather starts improving also.
Had a bonnet up incident today as I couldn’t unlock the car with the fob and then on opening with the manual key, the alarm went off and couldn’t start it. Turned out to be a cable from the positive terminal on the battery to a fuse had come off. Possibly down to fitting a new battery recently.
Anyway, the bonnet was up (for the wrong reason) in a car park known for car meets on a Sunday afternoon. Nice chap came over and brightened my mood by saying how much he loved these cars and used to have one himself.
Which takes me onto the last comment, why do we buy cars like this. I think this is a great video and at 9 minutes you get where I seem to be spending my time - https://youtu.be/EJOkjWKaeXY?si=Hg4-mJyeTDrtqfx1
Some past motoring experiences in most recent order:
- Ferrari 456, bought for 21k, spent around 8k over 2 years and sold for £30k
- Audi S8, bought for 3.5k, spent 2k over 2 years and sold for 7.5k
- Merc C250, lease with 3k deposit and 280 p/m. Cost 9k over 2 years and absolutely nothing to show for it after.
Which one of the 3 do you think was the most and least fun ;-).
Had a bonnet up incident today as I couldn’t unlock the car with the fob and then on opening with the manual key, the alarm went off and couldn’t start it. Turned out to be a cable from the positive terminal on the battery to a fuse had come off. Possibly down to fitting a new battery recently.
Anyway, the bonnet was up (for the wrong reason) in a car park known for car meets on a Sunday afternoon. Nice chap came over and brightened my mood by saying how much he loved these cars and used to have one himself.
Which takes me onto the last comment, why do we buy cars like this. I think this is a great video and at 9 minutes you get where I seem to be spending my time - https://youtu.be/EJOkjWKaeXY?si=Hg4-mJyeTDrtqfx1
Some past motoring experiences in most recent order:
- Ferrari 456, bought for 21k, spent around 8k over 2 years and sold for £30k
- Audi S8, bought for 3.5k, spent 2k over 2 years and sold for 7.5k
- Merc C250, lease with 3k deposit and 280 p/m. Cost 9k over 2 years and absolutely nothing to show for it after.
Which one of the 3 do you think was the most and least fun ;-).
My problem with cars is that I buy something that I think is interesting, invest time and money into getting it all sorted, then fancy something else and sell it after a couple of years.
At this point I can’t imagine trying to sell a car that either drips oil / doesn’t change gear / makes strange noises / has warning lights etc.
Make sure you buy this car is Spring 2025 haha
At this point I can’t imagine trying to sell a car that either drips oil / doesn’t change gear / makes strange noises / has warning lights etc.
Make sure you buy this car is Spring 2025 haha
My V8 armchair has returned! All fixed at Merc Medics in Woking. No more noises, which essentially were the engine and gearbox touching the chassis as gearbox and engine mounts had perished. The following was replaced:
Engine mounts
Gearbox mounts
Flexible brake pipes
Heat shield adjustment
Rear anti-roll bar links
Front wishbones
Engine rocker cover gaskets
Breather hoses
Fingers crossed for some trouble free motoring. If I get to March without anything else - over 1 year and 2,000 miles costs:
£550 tyres and balancing
£584 service, brake fluid, spark plugs
£440 climate control, parking brake, roof and window alignment, camseal
£2,713 the above Merc Medics list
The car drives beautifully now. A shame that some parts that were ‘replaced’ by Magari needed to be redone. Well, at least I now have somewhere to take my car for servicing.
Engine mounts
Gearbox mounts
Flexible brake pipes
Heat shield adjustment
Rear anti-roll bar links
Front wishbones
Engine rocker cover gaskets
Breather hoses
Fingers crossed for some trouble free motoring. If I get to March without anything else - over 1 year and 2,000 miles costs:
£550 tyres and balancing
£584 service, brake fluid, spark plugs
£440 climate control, parking brake, roof and window alignment, camseal
£2,713 the above Merc Medics list
The car drives beautifully now. A shame that some parts that were ‘replaced’ by Magari needed to be redone. Well, at least I now have somewhere to take my car for servicing.
Edited by fastgerman on Friday 15th December 16:05
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