E61 V8 Bearding
Discussion
ATM]Ordered plugs and coils from Autodoc. Then got an email saying they didn't have the plugs and offered me an alternative. I said no thanks I'll take the refund. I'd chosen NGK plugs and NGK coils and the alternative plugs they offered me where some unknown brand. Now I'm back to the drawing board. I'm wandering if I should give Euro Car Parts a go next. Autodoc had around 50 [maybe a slight exaggeration said:
different plugs listed for this car so I was a bit overwhelmed.
Get them off eBay UK or via C3BMW
I've been to see one of these today. It drove well, but has some mechanical items needing attention, water leaking into the rear (pan roof and blocked pipes, the owner had no idea until I looked in there) and some panel scrapes beyond what I would be happy with. I'm guessing at £3k plus my time to make it nice, not allowing for anything I haven't spotted to go bang. Straight car, OK underneath too.
The question for me is the end value if I put some time and effort in. What is a reasonable value for a 2006 pre-facelift car with 112k miles on it if I make it nice? Are these ever likely to appreciate significantly? I'm just looking at the maths of selling it later having put a decent amount of money into it as to a sensible offer level.
The question for me is the end value if I put some time and effort in. What is a reasonable value for a 2006 pre-facelift car with 112k miles on it if I make it nice? Are these ever likely to appreciate significantly? I'm just looking at the maths of selling it later having put a decent amount of money into it as to a sensible offer level.
Very difficult to say. I don't see profit in these cars. They are just too niche. I think about replacing mine but what with. The engine really is the gem of the ball and perfectly fine with the old school auto if you ask Me. Way more power than you need which can haul the thing to speeds quickly enough to still give excitement from such a big heavy car.
I have no idea what mine is worth as it is tatty and I also have water in the boot but no pan roof so yes common fault on these I'd assume. I also have some rot in my boot lid and some electrical gremlins in the lights only which might just be the wiring near the hinges which can wear through.
I know the manual car sold recently for 10k I think which I would say is the higher end of the market for these. But maybe I am wrong and they will be sought after. I just don't know.
I would say buy one to enjoy but don't expect profit.
I have no idea what mine is worth as it is tatty and I also have water in the boot but no pan roof so yes common fault on these I'd assume. I also have some rot in my boot lid and some electrical gremlins in the lights only which might just be the wiring near the hinges which can wear through.
I know the manual car sold recently for 10k I think which I would say is the higher end of the market for these. But maybe I am wrong and they will be sought after. I just don't know.
I would say buy one to enjoy but don't expect profit.
Owen Snell said:
BTW, I agree completely about the engine / box combo, it's great. I was expecting a bit of a slug from some reviews, but found it worked really well.
I had mine serviced after a few years of owning it with new fluid and sump and it realty improved the shifts. If I had known the difference in advance I would have done it much much sooner. I'm even thinking about doing a DIY fluid change. My plan is to try to extract some fluid via the dip stick using a pump and then replace with fresh new fluid.ATM said:
I had mine serviced after a few years of owning it with new fluid and sump and it realty improved the shifts. If I had known the difference in advance I would have done it much much sooner. I'm even thinking about doing a DIY fluid change. My plan is to try to extract some fluid via the dip stick using a pump and then replace with fresh new fluid.
I've bought it, collect next week.I have a business workshop with a 2 post lift and am planning to have a go at the gearbox oil. It might even be one we stock for machinery gearboxes. Looking forward to this car, if still a bit nervous.
Owen Snell said:
I've bought it, collect next week.
I have a business workshop with a 2 post lift and am planning to have a go at the gearbox oil. It might even be one we stock for machinery gearboxes. Looking forward to this car, if still a bit nervous.
I've owned mine for 5 years and besides the usual failures its been a pleasure to drive.I have a business workshop with a 2 post lift and am planning to have a go at the gearbox oil. It might even be one we stock for machinery gearboxes. Looking forward to this car, if still a bit nervous.
Not cheap to run compared to my old SAAB 9-5 and i didn't buy it for its fuel economy but for its sheer grunt and engine I'll forgive it lots!
When you decide it's too quiet and/or the silencer needs replacing go talk to The Exhaust Company in Newbury.
Josh will make you a stainless, cat back system tuned to your requirements (in my case no louder than 95db). He charged me about £500 a couple of years ago (no doubt now more thanks to the war in Ukraine, global profiteering , oil prices etc.etc.) Point is his prices are more than reasonable and he turned mine around in the day. I did have some initial problems with a vibration but to his credit he resolved those quickly and efficiently - always the mark of a good company. He also does mail order.
If it hasn't already been done move all the modules from the bottom of the spare wheel well into the void behind the left rear wheel arch. It doesn't require unplugging them just ensure the cables don't chafe on plastic trims. That saves them drowning if the roof drains block at any time.
I intend to relocate the electrics. The car had a bit of water in the spare wheel well, but not enough to reach the electrical parts.
Here is a thread about the drain pipe issue.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=95...
Here is a thread about the drain pipe issue.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=95...
Roof drain issue is one I experienced shortly after I got mine. Came out one morning and sat low as the air suspension module had got wet.
Birds (who look after my car) replaced the module and moved the modules, and also fashioned a foam cover behind the side panel so if it ever happens again the water will run away and miss any electrics. Wasn't a cheap fix but don't want to dig out the invoice and remind myself.
To properly clear the drains you need to drop the roof lining to get at the hoses which is what they did at the time. They said some places just blast an air line through from the sunroof ends and that can compact blockages further. Dust and crap can get washed in an accumulate from the sunroof surround.
Fine ever since and c3 years back now.
Birds (who look after my car) replaced the module and moved the modules, and also fashioned a foam cover behind the side panel so if it ever happens again the water will run away and miss any electrics. Wasn't a cheap fix but don't want to dig out the invoice and remind myself.
To properly clear the drains you need to drop the roof lining to get at the hoses which is what they did at the time. They said some places just blast an air line through from the sunroof ends and that can compact blockages further. Dust and crap can get washed in an accumulate from the sunroof surround.
Fine ever since and c3 years back now.
DogTheQCarHunter said:
ATM said:
I know the manual car sold recently for 10k I think which I would say is the higher end of the market for these. But maybe I am wrong and they will be sought after. I just don't know.
I would say buy one to enjoy but don't expect profit.
Which one was that?I would say buy one to enjoy but don't expect profit.
I'm back with my car and changed the battery as the existing was too small and dead as well. I tried a reset procedure using the trip button, which came up with some symbols, but not really what the procedure says. Anyway, the car starts OK, but the fobs don't work.
1. Do I need a proper battery reset procedure?
2. Do I need to do something to re-sync the fobs?
TIA
1. Do I need a proper battery reset procedure?
2. Do I need to do something to re-sync the fobs?
TIA
Have swapped mine many times with other cars I own and it just works without following any procedure as if the battery had not been out at all. Plug and Play. I only have 1 key.
When my central locking stopped working I suspect it was the antenna in the boot spoiler. I had been using the car as a mobile tool box and therefore it was left open for quite a while. I suspect more moisture had got into the antenna and the central locking from the key stopped working. But after a few days with the boot closed it started working again.
So I suspect the central locking fault is unrelated to the battery change but that's just a hunch.
When my central locking stopped working I suspect it was the antenna in the boot spoiler. I had been using the car as a mobile tool box and therefore it was left open for quite a while. I suspect more moisture had got into the antenna and the central locking from the key stopped working. But after a few days with the boot closed it started working again.
So I suspect the central locking fault is unrelated to the battery change but that's just a hunch.
Edited by ATM on Thursday 27th April 14:13
May be unrelated but if you change your battery you need to code the car for it. I did mine last month using my Carly. If you don't do this it won't charge correctly due to the IBS system and will shorten the life of the new battery. Especially important if you change the spec of battery for more or less CCA
Gassing Station | BMW General | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff