E91 Straight Six Bearding
Discussion
Gents - been running the self bleed for the coolant as I heard something gurgling the other night after switching off, hence just making sure there's no air lock.
For anyone that's watched it should the return stream to the header tank be constant or not? It seems to stream for about 20s and then nothing for 5s, and then stream again for 20s and so on.
I've run it 3 times now and it's been the same each time.
For anyone that's watched it should the return stream to the header tank be constant or not? It seems to stream for about 20s and then nothing for 5s, and then stream again for 20s and so on.
I've run it 3 times now and it's been the same each time.
Swervin_Mervin said:
Gents - been running the self bleed for the coolant as I heard something gurgling the other night after switching off, hence just making sure there's no air lock.
For anyone that's watched it should the return stream to the header tank be constant or not? It seems to stream for about 20s and then nothing for 5s, and then stream again for 20s and so on.
I've run it 3 times now and it's been the same each time.
Mines always been a bit like that, admittedly I’ve never watched it to completion. For anyone that's watched it should the return stream to the header tank be constant or not? It seems to stream for about 20s and then nothing for 5s, and then stream again for 20s and so on.
I've run it 3 times now and it's been the same each time.
Hi all. Now that my 335i has departed, I've been clearing out some of the bits and bobs for it that I'd accumulated. I have 5x brand new Bosch OE Coil packs. I've had them on ebay for a few weeks at what I thought was a good price but no interest at all. Can I ask what people think these are worth (either individually or as a pack of 5) and where you'd list them? It's a shame for them to just sit around.
Swervin_Mervin said:
Gents - been running the self bleed for the coolant as I heard something gurgling the other night after switching off, hence just making sure there's no air lock.
For anyone that's watched it should the return stream to the header tank be constant or not? It seems to stream for about 20s and then nothing for 5s, and then stream again for 20s and so on.
I've run it 3 times now and it's been the same each time.
Sounds fine. Mine sounds like a washing machine when bled. If you’re concerned about anything, the pump sets codes before it dies.For anyone that's watched it should the return stream to the header tank be constant or not? It seems to stream for about 20s and then nothing for 5s, and then stream again for 20s and so on.
I've run it 3 times now and it's been the same each time.
Has anyone had issues with the iDrive wheel not scrolling or joystick not working after installing an Andream/Android head unit?
Everything works fine except when in Android Auto mode paired to my phone, the CCC scroll wheel on the iDrive centre console won't scroll on screen; and clicking up or down won't have any corresponding impact on screen. However left and right both work fine!
Also when you flick back to the BMW iDrive screen the joystick and scroll work absolutely fine - it's only on AA it's a problem. I've checked all the wiring and connectors, nothing is loose or getting pinched etc. Jiggling the wiring around doesnt resolve any intermittent issues. I've tried it on a second phone which has the same issue so it rules out the phone.
Any ideas or anyone had the same issue?
Everything works fine except when in Android Auto mode paired to my phone, the CCC scroll wheel on the iDrive centre console won't scroll on screen; and clicking up or down won't have any corresponding impact on screen. However left and right both work fine!
Also when you flick back to the BMW iDrive screen the joystick and scroll work absolutely fine - it's only on AA it's a problem. I've checked all the wiring and connectors, nothing is loose or getting pinched etc. Jiggling the wiring around doesnt resolve any intermittent issues. I've tried it on a second phone which has the same issue so it rules out the phone.
Any ideas or anyone had the same issue?
sparks85 said:
Has anyone had issues with the iDrive wheel not scrolling or joystick not working after installing an Andream/Android head unit?
Everything works fine except when in Android Auto mode paired to my phone, the CCC scroll wheel on the iDrive centre console won't scroll on screen; and clicking up or down won't have any corresponding impact on screen. However left and right both work fine!
Also when you flick back to the BMW iDrive screen the joystick and scroll work absolutely fine - it's only on AA it's a problem. I've checked all the wiring and connectors, nothing is loose or getting pinched etc. Jiggling the wiring around doesnt resolve any intermittent issues. I've tried it on a second phone which has the same issue so it rules out the phone.
Any ideas or anyone had the same issue?
It’s set to the wrong screen type. Everything works fine except when in Android Auto mode paired to my phone, the CCC scroll wheel on the iDrive centre console won't scroll on screen; and clicking up or down won't have any corresponding impact on screen. However left and right both work fine!
Also when you flick back to the BMW iDrive screen the joystick and scroll work absolutely fine - it's only on AA it's a problem. I've checked all the wiring and connectors, nothing is loose or getting pinched etc. Jiggling the wiring around doesnt resolve any intermittent issues. I've tried it on a second phone which has the same issue so it rules out the phone.
Any ideas or anyone had the same issue?
You need to go into the factory settings using code 1368. I can’t recall the screen type you need but have a play (there are only four).
Court_S said:
It’s set to the wrong screen type.
You need to go into the factory settings using code 1368. I can’t recall the screen type you need but have a play (there are only four).
First of all - legend - have been tearing my hair out this PM.You need to go into the factory settings using code 1368. I can’t recall the screen type you need but have a play (there are only four).
Code works and lists lots of options. Let's me choose between various options for E60, X5, F48 and CCC/CIC/NBT and screen size...but no E91.
So changing to E60 CCC 8.8 in screen actually solved a different problem, that the old iDrive screen resolution didn't fit the new screen.
However it didn't solve the scroll wheel or joystick issues.. BUT if I spin the wheel furiously for every 20 odd clicks it will move one position. So feels like a step closer that it's not a hardware/wiring issue but something to do with calibration?
Are you able to shed any more light on how you solved this? Did you have the same problem?
sparks85 said:
First of all - legend - have been tearing my hair out this PM.
Code works and lists lots of options. Let's me choose between various options for E60, X5, F48 and CCC/CIC/NBT and screen size...but no E91.
So changing to E60 CCC 8.8 in screen actually solved a different problem, that the old iDrive screen resolution didn't fit the new screen.
However it didn't solve the scroll wheel or joystick issues.. BUT if I spin the wheel furiously for every 20 odd clicks it will move one position. So feels like a step closer that it's not a hardware/wiring issue but something to do with calibration?
Are you able to shed any more light on how you solved this? Did you have the same problem?
Is the wheel playing up in both the OE system and the Andream one?Code works and lists lots of options. Let's me choose between various options for E60, X5, F48 and CCC/CIC/NBT and screen size...but no E91.
So changing to E60 CCC 8.8 in screen actually solved a different problem, that the old iDrive screen resolution didn't fit the new screen.
However it didn't solve the scroll wheel or joystick issues.. BUT if I spin the wheel furiously for every 20 odd clicks it will move one position. So feels like a step closer that it's not a hardware/wiring issue but something to do with calibration?
Are you able to shed any more light on how you solved this? Did you have the same problem?
That’s not an issue that I’ve come across before. Sounds daft, but have you checked the connections?
Right - sorted.
I changed from iDrive A to B in the settings I mentioned. It didn't have any impact hence my posts above.
Then tried again today and worked fine straight off - I think the unit has to go through a power cycle to recognise the changes unlike some of the other settings which are instantaneous
Big thanks for the help - wouldn't have solved it without you.
Will do a write up with some lessons learned for everyone shortly
I changed from iDrive A to B in the settings I mentioned. It didn't have any impact hence my posts above.
Then tried again today and worked fine straight off - I think the unit has to go through a power cycle to recognise the changes unlike some of the other settings which are instantaneous
Big thanks for the help - wouldn't have solved it without you.
Will do a write up with some lessons learned for everyone shortly
Spanish high miler but looks a good potential buy-
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/2023120545...
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/2023120545...
sparks85 said:
Right - sorted.
I changed from iDrive A to B in the settings I mentioned. It didn't have any impact hence my posts above.
Then tried again today and worked fine straight off - I think the unit has to go through a power cycle to recognise the changes unlike some of the other settings which are instantaneous
Big thanks for the help - wouldn't have solved it without you.
Will do a write up with some lessons learned for everyone shortly
No worries, glad you got there in the end. I know I had to fiddle with mine to get it working but that was almost two years ago now! I changed from iDrive A to B in the settings I mentioned. It didn't have any impact hence my posts above.
Then tried again today and worked fine straight off - I think the unit has to go through a power cycle to recognise the changes unlike some of the other settings which are instantaneous
Big thanks for the help - wouldn't have solved it without you.
Will do a write up with some lessons learned for everyone shortly
Andream CarPlay/Android Auto Screen Unit Install
I bought and fitted one of these. It works really well because it mirrors your phone rather than being standalone you don't need a data SIM or tethering etc. It's also not laggy like some of the standalone android units.
https://www.andream-eu.com/product/ew963wadcp/
I used this guide on YouTube which is really clear and easy to follow.
Andream BMW E9X E60 Android Head Unit - Inbox and Install in E93
https://youtu.be/hogdLgyW8Kc?si=pJMOVB5abZyBEL2q
On top of the video guide linked above my tips are:
Be careful with the trim clip at the far end of the main dash trim - next to the far air vent - this one needs to pop out first then the others will follow - I snapped this.
The hazard/DSC button block pops out of the dash trim which makes it easier to connect and disconnect the two connectors which are quite inaccessible.
The start/stop button assembly pops out and you will likely need to reconnect the button to help you throughout the install/testing process.
The auto shifter needs to be put into D to create enough space to remove the head unit.
The plastic cage that everything slots into - definitely need to trim the passenger side top left corner part of the frame - this allows access to the space behind it to stash the main connector block. This doesn't just make life easier, I'd say it's essential as it's impossible to manipulate the loom as you push the head unit back in.
Below the glovebox adjacent to the centre console is a torx screw, if you remove this you can pop the lower panel out. I used a wire coat hanger poked from here into the area behind the head unit. Then hooked it around the quad lock connector and used it to pull it out the way into the newly accessible space when sliding the head unit back in. Once in place I then just cut the end of the coat hanger and left a short sacrificial section still hooked around the connector
You don't need to disconnect all the cables from the back of the head unit - just the quadlock. You can pop one of the others off easily to reroute it a bit in the space behind the head unit away from the main loom.
For Andream use the pin 1368 to get into the factory settings.
Hold down your iDrive menu button to flick between the original system and the new system.
If the original iDrive screen resolution/size isn't correct then you can select different vehicles in the factory system. Select the closest to your vehicle in terms of CCC/CIC, screen size etc.
If your iDrive wheel doesn't scroll/joystick doesn't move anything, change the factory setting between iDriver Type A and B. Note - the Andream system takes a while to recognise the settings (possibly a power cycle).
Make sure your phone is disconnected from the original BMW Bluetooth and the original BT is disabled.
Make sure Aux in the iDrive system is selected.
Make sure you transfer the fibre optic connector from the original quadlock to the new quadlock connector.
The trickiest part is positioning the loom and fitting the HU back into the cage. Cutting the cage and using the coat hanger hook are both pretty much essential.
Edit: you can trim the plastic radio cage in the car if you have a Dremel with a milling tool, the plastic is very soft. Just take care of the wires around it.
I bought and fitted one of these. It works really well because it mirrors your phone rather than being standalone you don't need a data SIM or tethering etc. It's also not laggy like some of the standalone android units.
https://www.andream-eu.com/product/ew963wadcp/
I used this guide on YouTube which is really clear and easy to follow.
Andream BMW E9X E60 Android Head Unit - Inbox and Install in E93
https://youtu.be/hogdLgyW8Kc?si=pJMOVB5abZyBEL2q
On top of the video guide linked above my tips are:
Be careful with the trim clip at the far end of the main dash trim - next to the far air vent - this one needs to pop out first then the others will follow - I snapped this.
The hazard/DSC button block pops out of the dash trim which makes it easier to connect and disconnect the two connectors which are quite inaccessible.
The start/stop button assembly pops out and you will likely need to reconnect the button to help you throughout the install/testing process.
The auto shifter needs to be put into D to create enough space to remove the head unit.
The plastic cage that everything slots into - definitely need to trim the passenger side top left corner part of the frame - this allows access to the space behind it to stash the main connector block. This doesn't just make life easier, I'd say it's essential as it's impossible to manipulate the loom as you push the head unit back in.
Below the glovebox adjacent to the centre console is a torx screw, if you remove this you can pop the lower panel out. I used a wire coat hanger poked from here into the area behind the head unit. Then hooked it around the quad lock connector and used it to pull it out the way into the newly accessible space when sliding the head unit back in. Once in place I then just cut the end of the coat hanger and left a short sacrificial section still hooked around the connector
You don't need to disconnect all the cables from the back of the head unit - just the quadlock. You can pop one of the others off easily to reroute it a bit in the space behind the head unit away from the main loom.
For Andream use the pin 1368 to get into the factory settings.
Hold down your iDrive menu button to flick between the original system and the new system.
If the original iDrive screen resolution/size isn't correct then you can select different vehicles in the factory system. Select the closest to your vehicle in terms of CCC/CIC, screen size etc.
If your iDrive wheel doesn't scroll/joystick doesn't move anything, change the factory setting between iDriver Type A and B. Note - the Andream system takes a while to recognise the settings (possibly a power cycle).
Make sure your phone is disconnected from the original BMW Bluetooth and the original BT is disabled.
Make sure Aux in the iDrive system is selected.
Make sure you transfer the fibre optic connector from the original quadlock to the new quadlock connector.
The trickiest part is positioning the loom and fitting the HU back into the cage. Cutting the cage and using the coat hanger hook are both pretty much essential.
Edit: you can trim the plastic radio cage in the car if you have a Dremel with a milling tool, the plastic is very soft. Just take care of the wires around it.
Edited by sparks85 on Saturday 30th December 14:27
sparks85 said:
Andream CarPlay/Android Auto Screen Unit Install
I bought and fitted one of these. It works really well because it mirrors your phone rather than being standalone you don't need a data SIM or tethering etc. It's also not laggy like some of the standalone android units.
https://www.andream-eu.com/product/ew963wadcp/
I used this guide on YouTube which is really clear and easy to follow.
Andream BMW E9X E60 Android Head Unit - Inbox and Install in E93
https://youtu.be/hogdLgyW8Kc?si=pJMOVB5abZyBEL2q
On top of the video guide linked above my tips are:
Be careful with the trim clip at the far end of the main dash trim - next to the far air vent - this one needs to pop out first then the others will follow - I snapped this.
The hazard/DSC button block pops out of the dash trim which makes it easier to connect and disconnect the two connectors which are quite inaccessible.
The start/stop button assembly pops out and you will likely need to reconnect the button to help you throughout the install/testing process.
The auto shifter needs to be put into D to create enough space to remove the head unit.
The plastic cage that everything slots into - definitely need to trim the passenger side top left corner part of the frame - this allows access to the space behind it to stash the main connector block. This doesn't just make life easier, I'd say it's essential as it's impossible to manipulate the loom as you push the head unit back in.
Below the glovebox adjacent to the centre console is a torx screw, if you remove this you can pop the lower panel out. I used a wire coat hanger poked from here into the area behind the head unit. Then hooked it around the quad lock connector and used it to pull it out the way into the newly accessible space when sliding the head unit back in. Once in place I then just cut the end of the coat hanger and left a short sacrificial section still hooked around the connector
You don't need to disconnect all the cables from the back of the head unit - just the quadlock. You can pop one of the others off easily to reroute it a bit in the space behind the head unit away from the main loom.
For Andream use the pin 1368 to get into the factory settings.
Hold down your iDrive menu button to flick between the original system and the new system.
If the original iDrive screen resolution/size isn't correct then you can select different vehicles in the factory system. Select the closest to your vehicle in terms of CCC/CIC, screen size etc.
If your iDrive wheel doesn't scroll/joystick doesn't move anything, change the factory setting between iDriver Type A and B. Note - the Andream system takes a while to recognise the settings (possibly a power cycle).
Make sure your phone is disconnected from the original BMW Bluetooth and the original BT is disabled.
Make sure Aux in the iDrive system is selected.
Make sure you transfer the fibre optic connector from the original quadlock to the new quadlock connector.
The trickiest part is positioning the loom and fitting the HU back into the cage. Cutting the cage and using the coat hanger hook are both pretty much essential.
Good write up.I bought and fitted one of these. It works really well because it mirrors your phone rather than being standalone you don't need a data SIM or tethering etc. It's also not laggy like some of the standalone android units.
https://www.andream-eu.com/product/ew963wadcp/
I used this guide on YouTube which is really clear and easy to follow.
Andream BMW E9X E60 Android Head Unit - Inbox and Install in E93
https://youtu.be/hogdLgyW8Kc?si=pJMOVB5abZyBEL2q
On top of the video guide linked above my tips are:
Be careful with the trim clip at the far end of the main dash trim - next to the far air vent - this one needs to pop out first then the others will follow - I snapped this.
The hazard/DSC button block pops out of the dash trim which makes it easier to connect and disconnect the two connectors which are quite inaccessible.
The start/stop button assembly pops out and you will likely need to reconnect the button to help you throughout the install/testing process.
The auto shifter needs to be put into D to create enough space to remove the head unit.
The plastic cage that everything slots into - definitely need to trim the passenger side top left corner part of the frame - this allows access to the space behind it to stash the main connector block. This doesn't just make life easier, I'd say it's essential as it's impossible to manipulate the loom as you push the head unit back in.
Below the glovebox adjacent to the centre console is a torx screw, if you remove this you can pop the lower panel out. I used a wire coat hanger poked from here into the area behind the head unit. Then hooked it around the quad lock connector and used it to pull it out the way into the newly accessible space when sliding the head unit back in. Once in place I then just cut the end of the coat hanger and left a short sacrificial section still hooked around the connector
You don't need to disconnect all the cables from the back of the head unit - just the quadlock. You can pop one of the others off easily to reroute it a bit in the space behind the head unit away from the main loom.
For Andream use the pin 1368 to get into the factory settings.
Hold down your iDrive menu button to flick between the original system and the new system.
If the original iDrive screen resolution/size isn't correct then you can select different vehicles in the factory system. Select the closest to your vehicle in terms of CCC/CIC, screen size etc.
If your iDrive wheel doesn't scroll/joystick doesn't move anything, change the factory setting between iDriver Type A and B. Note - the Andream system takes a while to recognise the settings (possibly a power cycle).
Make sure your phone is disconnected from the original BMW Bluetooth and the original BT is disabled.
Make sure Aux in the iDrive system is selected.
Make sure you transfer the fibre optic connector from the original quadlock to the new quadlock connector.
The trickiest part is positioning the loom and fitting the HU back into the cage. Cutting the cage and using the coat hanger hook are both pretty much essential.
Cutting a section of the plastic cage away makes it so much easier to get the addition cables out of the way.
The only other thing to note is that the VCDS cable (purple connector in the back of the screen) should be plugged in before the power cable (quad lock). Apparently not doing that can fry the screen.
Morning - got a bit of a head-scratcher with the E91.
The passenger side rear door won't unlock/open.
I bought a lock actuator/mechanism off of eBay, which I was going to fit this weekend. YouTube assured me that once the door card was off, I'd be able to work the unlock mechanism manually to get the door open.
However, although I can pull the catch in the mechanism in to the unlock position - nothing actually seems to happen, and the door still won't open. Have tried working the central locking, whilst fiddling with the catch - but nothing seems to open it.
A bit stumped as to what to do next. Any ideas?
Hoping that I'm not going to have to attack the door with an angle grinder!
Edit: managed to get it open eventually. Lots of prodding of the mechanism with a flat blade screwdriver, and it popped open after a few minutes of trying.
The passenger side rear door won't unlock/open.
I bought a lock actuator/mechanism off of eBay, which I was going to fit this weekend. YouTube assured me that once the door card was off, I'd be able to work the unlock mechanism manually to get the door open.
However, although I can pull the catch in the mechanism in to the unlock position - nothing actually seems to happen, and the door still won't open. Have tried working the central locking, whilst fiddling with the catch - but nothing seems to open it.
A bit stumped as to what to do next. Any ideas?
Hoping that I'm not going to have to attack the door with an angle grinder!
Edit: managed to get it open eventually. Lots of prodding of the mechanism with a flat blade screwdriver, and it popped open after a few minutes of trying.
Edited by stevesuk on Saturday 6th January 15:24
An annoying day of E91 ownership. Set off to meet people for a bike ride. 10 minutes in I'm thinking "it's surprisingly cold in this car" then shortly after a yellow temperature warning pops up on the dash, followed shortly after by the red one, so I pull over.
I've read the codes and it's clearly water pump failure (first rule of old BMW ownership: keep the code reader in the car at all times...).
Fine, fair enough, but I changed the pump and thermostat at 103,800 miles, and the car is on roughly 148k now. A pump shouldn't really fail that quickly!
There is a small chance it's wiring related. When I first changed the pump, the wiring was damaged (no idea how) and I had to repair it. It's conceivable that my repair has failed, perhaps exacerbated by the extremely cold weather. (2.5°C when I set off). I'm in two minds about whether I should just buy a new pump and stat anyway. I'd probably have looked to change it after 60k miles or so anyway.
It's galling that this has happened 3 weeks before the MOT and when it's freezing out. I don't think I can face DIYing it this time. It was a pig of a job to do on the drive last time and it wasn't nearly as chilly then.
EDITED TO ADD: Can anyone beat this deal for a pump and stat? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284646404612?hash=item4...
Incidentally the pump here has an updated part number, but it's not clear what has actually changed.
EDITED TO ADD EVEN MORE: Actually Autodoc might work out slightly cheaper...
I've read the codes and it's clearly water pump failure (first rule of old BMW ownership: keep the code reader in the car at all times...).
Fine, fair enough, but I changed the pump and thermostat at 103,800 miles, and the car is on roughly 148k now. A pump shouldn't really fail that quickly!
There is a small chance it's wiring related. When I first changed the pump, the wiring was damaged (no idea how) and I had to repair it. It's conceivable that my repair has failed, perhaps exacerbated by the extremely cold weather. (2.5°C when I set off). I'm in two minds about whether I should just buy a new pump and stat anyway. I'd probably have looked to change it after 60k miles or so anyway.
It's galling that this has happened 3 weeks before the MOT and when it's freezing out. I don't think I can face DIYing it this time. It was a pig of a job to do on the drive last time and it wasn't nearly as chilly then.
EDITED TO ADD: Can anyone beat this deal for a pump and stat? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284646404612?hash=item4...
Incidentally the pump here has an updated part number, but it's not clear what has actually changed.
EDITED TO ADD EVEN MORE: Actually Autodoc might work out slightly cheaper...
Edited by MajorMantra on Monday 8th January 15:43
Edited by MajorMantra on Monday 8th January 15:49
What a bloody pain. I’d certainly check the wiring, as it will be annoying to put a pump in and face the same issues. I fitted the pump in mine in late 2019, 60,000 miles ago. I’d also run the bleed procedure to see if the pump can work, or if it’s totally dead.
ETA: I think I bought a Pierburg from that seller then for mine also.
ETA: I think I bought a Pierburg from that seller then for mine also.
Edited by JakeT on Monday 8th January 16:54
Gassing Station | BMW General | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff