Adding underfloor heating to concrete floor

Adding underfloor heating to concrete floor

Author
Discussion

essayer

Original Poster:

9,080 posts

195 months

Monday 10th September 2012
quotequote all
We are redeveloping the kitchen and there will not be room for a radiator.

The floor is tiled concrete of unknown vintage (1900s house)

Ideally I would like wet UFH but I don't know how much of a pain this is going to be to 'retrofit'. We are replacing the tiles, and the aboveground pipework is all in the right place, but is it far too major a job to consider? I am budget conscious smile

I guess we can consider electric UFH, but concerned about running cost. It is not a large area to heat, only about 1.5m x 4m if you ignore the cabinet area.

RedLeicester

6,869 posts

246 months

Monday 10th September 2012
quotequote all
Looking in to much the same thing, conclusion thus far unless anyone can help us otherwise is that we have three choices:

Leccy underfloor mats - minimal uplift in floor height, absolutely no heat output and massive bills due to all the heat leeching into the concrete below.

Wet underfloor with tiny insulation laid on top of slab - bigger uplift in floor height (around 2" being conservative), and better heat output, but still losing a stupid amount of heat into the slab below.

Wet UFH via digging the entire fecking ground floor out and relay slab from earth upwards - perfect UFH operation, optimal conditions, wonderful. And one big fecking mess.



Looks like we're going for option 3 come the spring and moving out whilst it's done!

furtive

4,498 posts

280 months

Monday 10th September 2012
quotequote all
Have a look at Polypipe Overlay:

http://www.polypipe.com/polypipe/site/overlay-home

It's what I've got in my kitchen and works great. You fit MDF boards with grooves to the existing floor and put the water pipe into the groove. It only raises the floor height by 18mm.

Highly recommended!

hairyben

8,516 posts

184 months

Monday 10th September 2012
quotequote all
The thinnest solution would be 6mm solid insulation boards and wire but not a cheap to run option. While thin insulation options exist you can't have too much- I put in 6" of celotex on my (suspended) floors. Wet UFH is always best in the long run.

While breaking up 4 inches or so of concrete floor might seem like a gargantuan job to oneself there's always the option of renting a decent breaker and grinder, chucking em at a pair of cheap labradors for a couple days.

hedgefinder

3,418 posts

171 months

Monday 10th September 2012
quotequote all
RedLeicester said:
Looking in to much the same thing, conclusion thus far unless anyone can help us otherwise is that we have three choices:

Leccy underfloor mats - minimal uplift in floor height, absolutely no heat output and massive bills due to all the heat leeching into the concrete below.

Wet underfloor with tiny insulation laid on top of slab - bigger uplift in floor height (around 2" being conservative), and better heat output, but still losing a stupid amount of heat into the slab below.

Wet UFH via digging the entire fecking ground floor out and relay slab from earth upwards - perfect UFH operation, optimal conditions, wonderful. And one big fecking mess.



Looks like we're going for option 3 come the spring and moving out whilst it's done!
my entire ground floor has electric underfloor heating, it puts out a load of heat if required - if you fit insulation boards to the floor first the heat will not leech through the concrete, i tiled the floor with insulating boards laid the heat mats then screeded the entire ground floor with latex and tiled it.

RedLeicester

6,869 posts

246 months

Monday 10th September 2012
quotequote all
hedgefinder said:
my entire ground floor has electric underfloor heating, it puts out a load of heat if required - if you fit insulation boards to the floor first the heat will not leech through the concrete, i tiled the floor with insulating boards laid the heat mats then screeded the entire ground floor with latex and tiled it.
How much did that end up raising the floor by? Boards plus mat, plus screed sounds like quite a bit? What is under the boards?

hedgefinder

3,418 posts

171 months

Monday 10th September 2012
quotequote all
RedLeicester said:
How much did that end up raising the floor by? Boards plus mat, plus screed sounds like quite a bit? What is under the boards?
adhesive plus maramox insulating tiles 20mm +
latex screed 5mm

Ranger 6

7,053 posts

250 months

Monday 10th September 2012
quotequote all
furtive said:
Have a look at Polypipe Overlay:

http://www.polypipe.com/polypipe/site/overlay-home

It's what I've got in my kitchen and works great. You fit MDF boards with grooves to the existing floor and put the water pipe into the groove. It only raises the floor height by 18mm.

Highly recommended!
This is what we've got too - massive thumbup

Quality product, economical to run and completely unobtrusive in use - i.e. you could walk round in shorts when there's a foot of snow outside and you don't feel hot - always just right.

We were also recommended to use Ditra matting http://www.schluter.co.uk/produkt.aspx?doc=6-1-dit... under our stone tiles - it reduces thermal shock which can crack some stone (it may sound like BS but ours is fine after 4 years).

mondeoman

11,430 posts

267 months

Monday 10th September 2012
quotequote all
furtive said:
Have a look at Polypipe Overlay:

http://www.polypipe.com/polypipe/site/overlay-home

It's what I've got in my kitchen and works great. You fit MDF boards with grooves to the existing floor and put the water pipe into the groove. It only raises the floor height by 18mm.

Highly recommended!
Is it MDF or is it a composite with insulation built in - looks interesting either way!

furtive

4,498 posts

280 months

Monday 10th September 2012
quotequote all
No idea what it's made from to be honest. It's pretty heavy so wouldn't be suprised if it's composite with built-in insulation

Gingerbread Man

9,171 posts

214 months

Monday 10th September 2012
quotequote all
I've fitted quite a bit of Polypipe underfloor heating systems including the type mentioned above. It uses 12mm pipe as opposed to 15mm to minimise the floor height gain. It's the only thing you'll ever use 12mm for!

mattdaniels

7,353 posts

283 months

Monday 10th September 2012
quotequote all
RedLeicester said:
Looking in to much the same thing, conclusion thus far unless anyone can help us otherwise is that we have three choices:

Leccy underfloor mats - minimal uplift in floor height, absolutely no heat output and massive bills due to all the heat leeching into the concrete below.

Wet underfloor with tiny insulation laid on top of slab - bigger uplift in floor height (around 2" being conservative), and better heat output, but still losing a stupid amount of heat into the slab below.

Wet UFH via digging the entire fecking ground floor out and relay slab from earth upwards - perfect UFH operation, optimal conditions, wonderful. And one big fecking mess.



Looks like we're going for option 3 come the spring and moving out whilst it's done!
We're in the same boat.

It's gonna hurt, but we are kinda used to the mess now.


furtive

4,498 posts

280 months

Monday 10th September 2012
quotequote all
Matt why are you not considering what I've got?

fatboy b

9,500 posts

217 months

Monday 10th September 2012
quotequote all
furtive said:
Have a look at Polypipe Overlay:

http://www.polypipe.com/polypipe/site/overlay-home

It's what I've got in my kitchen and works great. You fit MDF boards with grooves to the existing floor and put the water pipe into the groove. It only raises the floor height by 18mm.

Highly recommended!
Can you run that off of the existing CH that is all radiators?

Paul Drawmer

4,878 posts

268 months

Monday 10th September 2012
quotequote all
Where there's no space for a wall radiator, you might be able to fit a plinth heater. They can be electric heaters or 'wet' with a plumbed in heat exchanger and fan.

Cheaper than UFH, but very effective.

http://www.myson.co.uk/products/hydronic.asp

psychoR1

1,069 posts

188 months

Tuesday 11th September 2012
quotequote all
Lots of missinformation on here about the amount of heat lost through floors - typically its about 15% compared to 35% through the walls/roof. The reality is that you dont loose much through the floor because the temperature difference accross the floor is normally arround 10-15C in peak winter rather than the 25-30C accross walls, windows, roof. For disbelievers http://www.confusedaboutenergy.co.uk/index.php/hea...

I was commercial HVAC designer for +15years and I installed electric underfloor in my kitchen. Its easy to install, cheap to install, 100% reliable, cheap to run and gives a great level thorough heat.

Do your fag packet calculation and size it correctly and its the way to go.

There is no need to insulate below as the %age of heat lost to the ground is minimal.


Ranger 6

7,053 posts

250 months

Tuesday 11th September 2012
quotequote all
fatboy b said:
furtive said:
Have a look at Polypipe Overlay:

http://www.polypipe.com/polypipe/site/overlay-home

It's what I've got in my kitchen and works great. You fit MDF boards with grooves to the existing floor and put the water pipe into the groove. It only raises the floor height by 18mm.

Highly recommended!
Can you run that off of the existing CH that is all radiators?
Yes, we did.

furtive

4,498 posts

280 months

Tuesday 11th September 2012
quotequote all
Ranger 6 said:
Yes, we did.
Same here.

mondeoman

11,430 posts

267 months

Tuesday 11th September 2012
quotequote all
furtive said:
No idea what it's made from to be honest. It's pretty heavy so wouldn't be suprised if it's composite with built-in insulation
If its what I think it is, thats a fk of a lot of money for routered fibreboard smile

hairyben

8,516 posts

184 months

Tuesday 11th September 2012
quotequote all
psychoR1 said:
Lots of missinformation on here about the amount of heat lost through floors - typically its about 15% compared to 35% through the walls/roof. The reality is that you dont loose much through the floor because the temperature difference accross the floor is normally arround 10-15C in peak winter rather than the 25-30C accross walls, windows, roof. For disbelievers http://www.confusedaboutenergy.co.uk/index.php/hea...

I was commercial HVAC designer for +15years and I installed electric underfloor in my kitchen. Its easy to install, cheap to install, 100% reliable, cheap to run and gives a great level thorough heat.

Do your fag packet calculation and size it correctly and its the way to go.

There is no need to insulate below as the %age of heat lost to the ground is minimal.
You fail to understand the information in your link, which clearly states 15% through the floor is for an average house. The average house has gas central heating and convector radiators. Hope this helps you in designing your systems.

Radiant underfloor heating will have completely different heat loss characteristics to the average house due to the floor itself being the radiator. Heat will be conducted away, not gently radiated as per average house. If you don't insulate between an element and a concrete slab, apart from crippling heat conduction losses you'll be looking at several hours for warm-up. I've installed elements or supplies for such in this way as the client/clients builder was to arrogant to take advice and I believe all such systems aren't in use due to the fact you pretty much need to run them 24/7 for them to be warm when you need them.

The only exception will be if the area is a fairly recent build as insulation in incorporated within the floor (if it's done to regs).