E91 Straight Six Bearding
Discussion
In the same vein as the E61 v8 bearding thread ( https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...)
For those with petrol straight six E91s - owners, almost owners and ex owners to have somewhere to share there stories.
Here's a couple of pictures of mine (2005, pre LCI E91 330i 6MT) to get started. (I'll from time to time update this flickr album: https://flic.kr/s/aHskFEFJkh )
Cleaned E91 by Chris Reeves, on Flickr
207 (17-07-2017) by Chris Reeves, on Flickr
For those with petrol straight six E91s - owners, almost owners and ex owners to have somewhere to share there stories.
Here's a couple of pictures of mine (2005, pre LCI E91 330i 6MT) to get started. (I'll from time to time update this flickr album: https://flic.kr/s/aHskFEFJkh )
Cleaned E91 by Chris Reeves, on Flickr
207 (17-07-2017) by Chris Reeves, on Flickr
Edited by zippyonline on Tuesday 25th July 09:33
ATM said:
What's a valve cover?
Did the valve cover on mine (it was leaking a bit), changed the eccentric shaft sensor whilst I was at it. Turns out the reason it was leaking is actually coz a couple of the studs were already sheared - and they're one time use alu things. Strangely the car came with a set of new alu bolts for the valve cover included, but no new gasket - guess that explained why!It's a fairly time consuming valve cover gasket to change - there's a lot of things to get out of the way, an even then it's a bit Houdini like! Also changed the valvetronic gasket and the oil filler one and the eccentric shaft gasket whilst I was there.
065 (16-03-2017) by Chris Reeves, on Flickr
Common leak point apparently!
Gez79 said:
Without hijacking an e91 thread with saloons.....
I think a 335i e90 is more welcome than a 330d e91 
In terms of reliability (and this is just from reading on the internet....
)
for an x35i N55>N54
for an x30i/x25i N52>N53
I was specifically after an N52 after reading that it's the engine to get and many around the world have clocked up big miles. I bought mine on 181k miles and it's now on 191k miles (I have no idea how - considering I don't commute in it and it's been off the road for about 1.5 months over my time whilst I've been sorting suspension and DISA valves!) and in fairness, whilst I've had a fair few problems and replaced lots of bits - the engine itself has been alright.
The other engines I hear all sorts of things about high pressure fuel pumps, injectors, and clogging inlet ports coz they're direct injection (rather than the port injection on the n52). Let alone the whole replacing turbo's thing.
I was about to list the bits and pieces I've replaced/fixed in the last 11months, but it's quite long, so I'll post that all up with photos sometime in the future! Let's just say I'm very glad I have built up a reasonable tool collection otherwise I couldn't afford to run this car.
)for an x35i N55>N54
for an x30i/x25i N52>N53
I was specifically after an N52 after reading that it's the engine to get and many around the world have clocked up big miles. I bought mine on 181k miles and it's now on 191k miles (I have no idea how - considering I don't commute in it and it's been off the road for about 1.5 months over my time whilst I've been sorting suspension and DISA valves!) and in fairness, whilst I've had a fair few problems and replaced lots of bits - the engine itself has been alright.
The other engines I hear all sorts of things about high pressure fuel pumps, injectors, and clogging inlet ports coz they're direct injection (rather than the port injection on the n52). Let alone the whole replacing turbo's thing.
I was about to list the bits and pieces I've replaced/fixed in the last 11months, but it's quite long, so I'll post that all up with photos sometime in the future! Let's just say I'm very glad I have built up a reasonable tool collection otherwise I couldn't afford to run this car.
bodhi said:
Can E82 owners play too? 
As long as you keep the 1 series chatter to a minimum A few other v8 bm owners contributed to the v8 bearding thread which was interesting.RFC1 said:
ATM said:
Not a Y just usb from iPod to car.
I think you need both USB and aux connected to your I-thing. I do with my iPhone and it works perfect.I've got a "MULF2 Hi-SVS" unit sitting at home waiting to be swapped (and coded) with the MULF2 unit so I can add USB playback to the car - currently Aux and Bluetooth all work nicely though. And the headunit will talk mp3 cd's, so not too bad. I actually burnt some cd's for the cd changer just because it's there - it felt so retro!
Also, last weekend I went up to Bradford direction to look at a E91 335i with/for a friend - but it was overpriced for how rough it was (bodged angel eyes that were falling out and leaking, scuffs, trim falling out, parcel shelf that didn't work etc.) and the dealer didn't want to budge on price - all the cars there were as rough as, avoid the place! So we drove away without it. Anyway, said friend should be along to this thread soon as he's now picked up a good condition pre-lci e91 335i auto with 164k on the clock.
ATM said:
Is the wider track on the LCI part of the hubs / suspension or just the alloy's offset?
Cross referencing part numbers on realoem of LCI vs pre-lci, seems to be the hubs.In other news, the other day I discovered the boggo brakes on the 330i have 330mm dia discs on the front and 336mm dia discs on the rear! 335i seems to come with 348mm dia and larger calipers.
Anyway, apparently the calipers on the F30 fit, so I have ordered some BMW brembo 4 pots with discs and pads as I thought the braking was distinctly average on my 330i! I probably won't fit them for a while, but as it came with some cheapo discs and pads - and they're not wearing brilliantly, these will get fitted sometime over the next 6 months as well as the braided lines for the rear brakes (came with the car, but unfitted, fronts were fitted!).
I'll have to see if my 17s will fit under them, but I'm fairly sure they will.
ATM said:
I had an F30 335i with the standard grey 4 pots and I used 17 inch winters. The m performance package with the blue [or red] calipers for the F30 has bigger discs and they do not fit under a 17 inch wheel.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Cool - that confirms that one. My reading about and cross-referencing of part numbers alluded to that (340 dia discs fitting under 17s), wheraas the m performance with their 370 dia discs require 18s.https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Swervin_Mervin said:
I'd be interested to see how you get on with that. Our F20 125i has the BMW 4-pot Brembos up front and I have found myself wondering about whether it would be a worthwhile mod to my 330i.
Out of interested, and if you don't mind me asking, how much did they set you back?
I've paid circa £600 for a set of the 4 pots from an F30 335i, but come with the discs and pads - all this is OEM BMW and have done about 11k miles - and from the photos look alright. It also comes with discs, pads and calipers for the rear in the same situation. So I'll sell the rears on, and the original fronts to get the outlay down a bit - but in fairness, I'm not far off the price of OE discs and pads to be honest by the time I'm done. I also think all the fluid volumes are alright, so I shouldn't have to bugger about with master cylinders or anything, but we'll see.Out of interested, and if you don't mind me asking, how much did they set you back?
What swung it for me over getting a set of E9x 335i calipers which are a larger diameter and I also know fit - was just price was it worked out similar, and then I looked at the weights (and how the 4 pots look better!) and went with the 4 pots! We'll see how they end up - but suspect I might not fit them for a while.
I was reading up on the braking/traction systems etc. the other day. 6 cylinder jobbies have a different system I thinks on the braking front.
Anyways, on the braking system there is meant to be an "anti-fade" function, so if they're getting hot, the system should compensate so your pedal feel is consistent for a given level of deceleration. I guess there's only so far the system can help you out - and actually I think if I was hooning all the time / using track time, I'd find this annoying as you couldn't feel the brakes starting to get hot and adjust your driving accordingly.
I've also worked out when the brake assist is activated now - it's when you take your foot off the throttle pedal quickly and then press the brake relatively fast - I don't like it. I don't think you can turn it off - but now I know when it's triggered, I can work with it.
I like DTC mode, but when casually cruising use DSC as like you say otherwise you can't use cruise. DSC I find cuts in too early, DTC is fine for making progress and allows as much slip and sideways-ness as is sensible on the roads tbh - standard dsc mode I find cuts in too early for you to feel what's going on IMHO. Hooligan mode is fine for smoking tyres etc.
I also found out yesterday that on cruise control, if the bend is beyond a certain angle, it applies the brakes - even if the car is more than capable of taking said bend at said speed.
Oh, and I've now done 10k miles in mine. That's quite high mileage for me, given it's been off the road for about 1.5 months in the last 11 months I've owned it, and I cycle to work most days, so that's mostly all leisure miles!
Anyways, on the braking system there is meant to be an "anti-fade" function, so if they're getting hot, the system should compensate so your pedal feel is consistent for a given level of deceleration. I guess there's only so far the system can help you out - and actually I think if I was hooning all the time / using track time, I'd find this annoying as you couldn't feel the brakes starting to get hot and adjust your driving accordingly.
I've also worked out when the brake assist is activated now - it's when you take your foot off the throttle pedal quickly and then press the brake relatively fast - I don't like it. I don't think you can turn it off - but now I know when it's triggered, I can work with it.
I like DTC mode, but when casually cruising use DSC as like you say otherwise you can't use cruise. DSC I find cuts in too early, DTC is fine for making progress and allows as much slip and sideways-ness as is sensible on the roads tbh - standard dsc mode I find cuts in too early for you to feel what's going on IMHO. Hooligan mode is fine for smoking tyres etc.
I also found out yesterday that on cruise control, if the bend is beyond a certain angle, it applies the brakes - even if the car is more than capable of taking said bend at said speed.
Oh, and I've now done 10k miles in mine. That's quite high mileage for me, given it's been off the road for about 1.5 months in the last 11 months I've owned it, and I cycle to work most days, so that's mostly all leisure miles!
For the E9x - DTC is a "sub-system" of DSC. (Uses an MK60E5 control system thingy if that helps anyone! - 4 pots use a less sophisticated MK60psi control system). The DSC button that you're used to ATM I think has been renamed to DTC (Dynamic Traction Control) on the E9x.
This MK60E5 is also used on the E60 M5!
Here's a good quote - but there's a lot of literature on it. For example, even with DSC on, it won't intervene if you pull the handbrake (although I do think the handbrake is crap anyway, so I dunno if just click the handbrake up a notch will help pop you into tyre-smoke mode quicker than holding the DTC button down for half an hour to disengage it!
[i]DSC is ON by default, there is no need to press any buttons on start up. DSC uses a series of sensors to detect wheel spin, yaw rate of the car and other properties. Using sensors and other electronics it can apply the brakes as needed, cut engine power and with Active Steering it can make small steering corrections to better keep the car under control. In layman terms, all the nannies are on by default and help to keep the car from spinning out. When DSC is intervening a caution light will flash in the instrument cluster.
In some models, DTC (Dynamic Traction control) is a sub-function of DSC. It is activated by briefly pressing the DTC button. A light will light up in instrument cluster indicating this function has been activated. DTC will allow the wheels to spin, increases the angle at which the system will begin to apply the brakes (eliminates the yaw rate sensors) and does NOT cut the engine power. This system function is designed to allow the driver to spin the wheels in order to get through snow, ice and other conditions where wheel spin is required. While certain sensors are deactivated others still remain active. This function also provides a more sporty driving experience in dry conditions while at the same time being a limited security blanket. Having some track time messing with this system, DTC will still cut in and apply braking so you can ‘t get the back end out all that much but it still allows you full power to motor through. Like DSC a blinking caution light indicates the system is intervening.
DSC/DTC can be turned OFF by holding the DTC button for 3 seconds. The caution indicator light will remain lit in the instrument cluster, the nannies are now off and you are on your own so stay within your abilities![/i]
This MK60E5 is also used on the E60 M5!
Here's a good quote - but there's a lot of literature on it. For example, even with DSC on, it won't intervene if you pull the handbrake (although I do think the handbrake is crap anyway, so I dunno if just click the handbrake up a notch will help pop you into tyre-smoke mode quicker than holding the DTC button down for half an hour to disengage it!
[i]DSC is ON by default, there is no need to press any buttons on start up. DSC uses a series of sensors to detect wheel spin, yaw rate of the car and other properties. Using sensors and other electronics it can apply the brakes as needed, cut engine power and with Active Steering it can make small steering corrections to better keep the car under control. In layman terms, all the nannies are on by default and help to keep the car from spinning out. When DSC is intervening a caution light will flash in the instrument cluster.
In some models, DTC (Dynamic Traction control) is a sub-function of DSC. It is activated by briefly pressing the DTC button. A light will light up in instrument cluster indicating this function has been activated. DTC will allow the wheels to spin, increases the angle at which the system will begin to apply the brakes (eliminates the yaw rate sensors) and does NOT cut the engine power. This system function is designed to allow the driver to spin the wheels in order to get through snow, ice and other conditions where wheel spin is required. While certain sensors are deactivated others still remain active. This function also provides a more sporty driving experience in dry conditions while at the same time being a limited security blanket. Having some track time messing with this system, DTC will still cut in and apply braking so you can ‘t get the back end out all that much but it still allows you full power to motor through. Like DSC a blinking caution light indicates the system is intervening.
DSC/DTC can be turned OFF by holding the DTC button for 3 seconds. The caution indicator light will remain lit in the instrument cluster, the nannies are now off and you are on your own so stay within your abilities![/i]
Edited by zippyonline on Tuesday 8th August 11:32
Edited by zippyonline on Tuesday 8th August 11:33
ATM said:
Next I see Active Steering gets a mention. Does the 335i have this?
IIRC, it's an option - so guess you can look on your VIN lookup.Or, if you have a green label with a "star shaped" cap, then you don't have active steering. e.g.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=WB73-...
Or if it's more like a canister, then you do have active steering.
e.g. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=WB73-...
That blue one with the big brake kit and pano roof? - I've seen that in the flesh (was taking a friend up to see it as it happened). It's a dog to put it mildly and way overpriced for it's condition.
There's some dodgy respray work on it, dodgy angle eyes which are on the wonk and they leak, the battery area had water around it, the parcel shelf/plastics holding it are broken - shadow codes scanned and show a dodgy thermostat for starters.
There's some dodgy respray work on it, dodgy angle eyes which are on the wonk and they leak, the battery area had water around it, the parcel shelf/plastics holding it are broken - shadow codes scanned and show a dodgy thermostat for starters.
ATM said:
zippyonline said:
That blue one with the big brake kit and pano roof? - I've seen that in the flesh (was taking a friend up to see it as it happened). It's a dog to put it mildly and way overpriced for it's condition.
There's some dodgy respray work on it, dodgy angle eyes which are on the wonk and they leak, the battery area had water around it, the parcel shelf/plastics holding it are broken - shadow codes scanned and show a dodgy thermostat for starters.
What brake kit is on it?There's some dodgy respray work on it, dodgy angle eyes which are on the wonk and they leak, the battery area had water around it, the parcel shelf/plastics holding it are broken - shadow codes scanned and show a dodgy thermostat for starters.
hughcam said:
ATM said:
So you think the brakes on the 335i are better than an e46 m3?
They are miles better than my e46 M3 for road use yes. That's standard compared with standard and the e91 has just had discs and pads alround.The only thing I'm not too keen on is the level of servo assistance is much higher in the e91.
It's also interesting how the 335i is specced with actually bigger brakes than the 330i - must be some reasoning for that. If I have a spare weekend soon, I might actually fit my f30 brembo's... I think I might even go all nerdy and measure piston sizes, and perhaps do a controlled hard braking over the same bit of road to see if there's an appreciable difference.
ATM said:
What do you get with the BMW Performance Kit - I've seen the fancy calipers but are the discs bigger too?
Here you go. https://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-brakes-F30-Brak...The "BMW Performance" calipers for the E9x range are that yellow/green colour with millions of pistons and smaller diameter discs - some reckon it's downgrade over the 335i brakes!
Adding this to this thread for interest!
Come join us in the E91 Straight Six Bearing thread! https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
There's a long thread here about DISA failures on the N52: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=962...
Basically there's 2 butterfly valves in the inlet manifold that change the air flow path according to revs for optimum-ness. When it breaks you'll feel power delivery is a bit different. You should see shadow codes come up - but a CEL won't show.
The larger one seems to be the problem - and this is far easier to get to, in fact you could change it in about 15 minutes yourself - BMW have revised this part to have a metal shaft now - so once changed it should be alright. Mine had a pastic shaft, it broke, then the flap broke and was rattling in my inlet ports! Fortunately the shaft bit was trapped by some oil in the inlet as my CCV gubbins was also not working - lucky really! Thing is the part is about £250 from BMW.
The other smaller valve is "inside" the manifold near the starter motor etc. I've not seen reports on that one dying.
There's a rebuild kit available on the market- where you replace plastic shaft and flap with an alu one - but you've got to split an ultrasonically welded plastic thing apart - I thought I would do this with the inner DISA as preventative maintenance, but ironically ruined it as I couldn't get any adhesive to make the back stick back together - so ended up buying a new DISA for that to replace the perfectly good one that I ruined trying to preventatively maintain it!
I think there's a report of someone lunching their engine like this - but there's lots and lots of failure stories which has been a case of just changing the DISA and all is fine. I'd just keep tabs on it (scan for codes once in a while, keep an eye on how the power is delivered, if it feels it's lacking anywhere, check it out - and you can just unscrew it and have a look easily enough actually) - and probably worth swapping out the part for the latest revision (if you don't already have it) if you're approaching high miles - it's an easy job for the large DISA that is the one that fails.
zippyonline said:
phil_cardiff said:
zippyonline said:
I concur. Although also watch for the DISA valves being swallowed - I fished a broken DISA butterfly out of my inlet ports - close escape. That said, I did change my waterpump @ 186k miles on the clock, and it was the original!
ABS system faults (which can be sent of to specialist re builders these days) iirc limited to the system on the 4 bangers, the 6 cylinder versions have a different more sophisticated system that does stuff like when it's raining keeping the discs clear of water, adding braking to the cruise control and hill start assist (and is the same one as used in the E60 m5) - I was reading some literature on it the other day.
p.s. jumping back a few posts, liking the E34 recently, that's what I'd put the V10 in (although secretly E46 coupe is my favourite shape bimmer actually!)
Interesting. I've not heard of DISA valves. Is there a warning or preventative maintenance that can be done? How cheaply can they be changed? ABS system faults (which can be sent of to specialist re builders these days) iirc limited to the system on the 4 bangers, the 6 cylinder versions have a different more sophisticated system that does stuff like when it's raining keeping the discs clear of water, adding braking to the cruise control and hill start assist (and is the same one as used in the E60 m5) - I was reading some literature on it the other day.
p.s. jumping back a few posts, liking the E34 recently, that's what I'd put the V10 in (although secretly E46 coupe is my favourite shape bimmer actually!)
There's a long thread here about DISA failures on the N52: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=962...
Basically there's 2 butterfly valves in the inlet manifold that change the air flow path according to revs for optimum-ness. When it breaks you'll feel power delivery is a bit different. You should see shadow codes come up - but a CEL won't show.
The larger one seems to be the problem - and this is far easier to get to, in fact you could change it in about 15 minutes yourself - BMW have revised this part to have a metal shaft now - so once changed it should be alright. Mine had a pastic shaft, it broke, then the flap broke and was rattling in my inlet ports! Fortunately the shaft bit was trapped by some oil in the inlet as my CCV gubbins was also not working - lucky really! Thing is the part is about £250 from BMW.
The other smaller valve is "inside" the manifold near the starter motor etc. I've not seen reports on that one dying.
There's a rebuild kit available on the market- where you replace plastic shaft and flap with an alu one - but you've got to split an ultrasonically welded plastic thing apart - I thought I would do this with the inner DISA as preventative maintenance, but ironically ruined it as I couldn't get any adhesive to make the back stick back together - so ended up buying a new DISA for that to replace the perfectly good one that I ruined trying to preventatively maintain it!
I think there's a report of someone lunching their engine like this - but there's lots and lots of failure stories which has been a case of just changing the DISA and all is fine. I'd just keep tabs on it (scan for codes once in a while, keep an eye on how the power is delivered, if it feels it's lacking anywhere, check it out - and you can just unscrew it and have a look easily enough actually) - and probably worth swapping out the part for the latest revision (if you don't already have it) if you're approaching high miles - it's an easy job for the large DISA that is the one that fails.
I do like the Xenons on mine - but must admit, the price for a second hand unit is still quite eye watering should I need to replace one - specially compared to the halogens. But - I like how much illumination I get from them!
I do also find quite handy how there's loads of these vehicles on the road / being broken for spares, which makes my relatively rare N52 powered 330i with manual box (something like 110 on the road last time I checked) a bit easier to run / replace a bumper should I hit a pheasant or something.
My car is specced (some of it has been retrofitted) about the level I'd spec myself had I bought it, I have Xenons, no nav, manual seats and Logic 7. My mate has a pano roof in his - which whilst nice, isn't worth the drainplug issues, weight and cost!
Here's a random photo of mine with the dog in the back - just because.
200 (10-07-2017) by Chris Reeves, on Flickr
I do also find quite handy how there's loads of these vehicles on the road / being broken for spares, which makes my relatively rare N52 powered 330i with manual box (something like 110 on the road last time I checked) a bit easier to run / replace a bumper should I hit a pheasant or something.
My car is specced (some of it has been retrofitted) about the level I'd spec myself had I bought it, I have Xenons, no nav, manual seats and Logic 7. My mate has a pano roof in his - which whilst nice, isn't worth the drainplug issues, weight and cost!
Here's a random photo of mine with the dog in the back - just because.
200 (10-07-2017) by Chris Reeves, on Flickr
You want to get hold of INPA software to read the shadow codes (i.e. ones not tirggering a CEL) from a laptop - with a compatible cable (Edibas DCAN - although ELM327 might be alright for just diagnostics). Carly app is the super easy way though.
To check the actual valve though - you can just undo the bolts for the power steering reservoir and move it out of the way, then you can slide the DISA valve out (might have to move a couple of cables out the way). I can post a couple of photos when on my own PC (and if I remember!)
To check the actual valve though - you can just undo the bolts for the power steering reservoir and move it out of the way, then you can slide the DISA valve out (might have to move a couple of cables out the way). I can post a couple of photos when on my own PC (and if I remember!)
tomic said:
Does anyone actually own an E91 330i M Sport Manual with leather and nav (preferably with the N52 engine), or does such a car not exist?
I'm close - I have the almost all of the above, just don't have the Nav. Leather interior was admittedly retro-fitted by the previous owner - but that's quite an easy thing to do really and looking on eBay interiors are going for about £400 anyway. It also has a coupe of other nice interior trimmings like the m3 (I think) steering wheel, clubsport gear knob + gaiter and m performance handbrake handle/gaiter.However looking at how many left, an E91 330i M Sport Manual is incredibly rare to begin with (i.e. less than an M3 csl sort of numbers), start pairing this down to N52 and specific options, most only be a handful.
E91 line-up at work today.
248 (06-09-2017) by Chris Reeves, on Flickr
From left to right:
318d (M47) - poverty spec.
335i M Sport (N54) - owned by friend at work, pano roof, Nav, Xenons etc. Auto. Keep telling him to remove the grill stickers!
330i M Sport (N52) - mine, Manual, Scorpion Exhaust, Birds B3 Suspension.
In other news, I discovered that I can fir a 3m long bit of conduit in the car and everything shuts - that's about as long an item as I reckon you can manage though. Given how often I appear to be load lugging stuff, and half the miles I do are probably with a bike in the back - I really can't do without an estate car! #BecauseEstateCar
248 (06-09-2017) by Chris Reeves, on Flickr
From left to right:
318d (M47) - poverty spec.
335i M Sport (N54) - owned by friend at work, pano roof, Nav, Xenons etc. Auto. Keep telling him to remove the grill stickers!
330i M Sport (N52) - mine, Manual, Scorpion Exhaust, Birds B3 Suspension.
In other news, I discovered that I can fir a 3m long bit of conduit in the car and everything shuts - that's about as long an item as I reckon you can manage though. Given how often I appear to be load lugging stuff, and half the miles I do are probably with a bike in the back - I really can't do without an estate car! #BecauseEstateCar
Edited by zippyonline on Tuesday 5th September 21:26
Came with it - but when I rebuilt the rear end, I essentially un fitted and re-fitted it - all fits easily.
It's firm (slightly less than stock M Sport iirc), but it's well controlled and nicely damped - doesn't feel harsh, and hitting a pot hole isn't the end of the world. I think I have some wobbly subframe bushings that I haven't swapped out yet, and I'm not happy with one of the powerflex bushings - so handling is limited a tiny bit (bit of shimmy still) - but you can feel the underlying chassis and spring/damper set is well controlled. When the dampers start to get tired - I won't be using as an excuse for an Ohlins kit or anything (unless I'm super flush with cash at the time!) - I'll be sending them back to Bilstein to get rebuilt.
The birds roll bars compliment the LSD apparently - I really wish I had one of them!
It's firm (slightly less than stock M Sport iirc), but it's well controlled and nicely damped - doesn't feel harsh, and hitting a pot hole isn't the end of the world. I think I have some wobbly subframe bushings that I haven't swapped out yet, and I'm not happy with one of the powerflex bushings - so handling is limited a tiny bit (bit of shimmy still) - but you can feel the underlying chassis and spring/damper set is well controlled. When the dampers start to get tired - I won't be using as an excuse for an Ohlins kit or anything (unless I'm super flush with cash at the time!) - I'll be sending them back to Bilstein to get rebuilt.
The birds roll bars compliment the LSD apparently - I really wish I had one of them!
Well I only need the diff and ARBs (incidentally found out that superpro have an ARB kit too - haven't looked what stiffness they are), so I'm in for that if it's half £1700 for them!
In other news, found a couple of squidgy bushings at the weekend - in talks with the manufacturer to resolve - watch this space. This should hopefully cure that last little bit of handling I wasn't happy with.
In other news, found a couple of squidgy bushings at the weekend - in talks with the manufacturer to resolve - watch this space. This should hopefully cure that last little bit of handling I wasn't happy with.
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