IIRC the oil level should be 2 or 3mm below the level of the filler plug hole which is located on the LH (passenger) side of the main gear casing. You can measure it using a piece of wire bent in a right angle, as a dipstick. There is no drain plug, you have to suck it out with a squeezy bottle & tube.
Best done after a run when it's still warm & any loose particles are still in suspension in the oil. Suck out all you can, because it's not good to mix different types. Don't burn yourself on the exhaust though.

Somebody will be along in a moment with recommended grade & make.

Aaah. Sorry Mikel, I forgot you had the body off!
I was getting my Mikes micksed up!

I really can't imagine that 2mm will make much difference in the grand scheme of things as long as the shaft seals are good. Better 2mm too much than none at all.
Unless someone knows different?

The advise I got from a ford mechanic was to use Quakerstate mineral oil 85w-140 LS (if memory serves me) in the gearbox and fill it level with the plug. That was what they used in racing cars with typ9 gearbox

I was reccommended this stuff by Opie Oils

All good solid advise thank you job still not done but have made a tool to suck the oil out baby steps as always but getting there

bible says gl5 75/90 ?

Have you used it Mike? If so any good?

Edited as I have just got a response from Opie Oils but they recommended Red Line ATF D4 for me. Confused!!

Their reply: You need an ATF and the best options are the Redline D4, Amsoil ATF and Fuchs ATF 5000. Castrol Transmax Dex III, Motul Dexron III, Fuchs ATF 4000 and Millers ATF DM are fine as cheaper alternatives.

Anyone want to help me decide what to go for in the gearbox oil lucky dip?

Sorry mis read your priveous post

I'd honestly struggle to say I noticed any difference.

As for the old ATF or gear oil "discussion" I'll keep out of that one but no mention of ATF in any of my Haynes Sierra or Granada books.


I was warned about using fully synthetics in old (bronze synchro ring) gearbox's after I'd put that stuff in, although it does say it is ok, no sulphurs to attack the bronze. But the guy I was talking to, a trade stand at a car show, reckoned synthetics can be too good and the bronze synchro rings can't "cut through" quickly enough to do their job ?

Sorry I've taken so long to reply to your question

I've seen this mentioned on loads of Ford and kitcar forums that use the type nine. I usually trust Opie Oils but think I'll keep to something more 'period' in this instance. Thanks Mike.