Mercedes-Benz CLK350 Elegance - Bottom of the Barrel
Discussion
This is a story about an impulse purchase that doesn't make a great deal of sense. I wanted a car to keep my other CLK away from the winter weather, and for some reason - despite having two ongoing projects - I fancied a quick restoration project (the other two projects are more about engineering and integration). I really like the 209 CLK for the way it looks and drives; it isn't sporty at all, but it is smooth, quiet, and feels like a quality car. The multi-cylinder engines offer electric car quiet when wafting but have a very pleasing sound when opened up. The pre-facelift cars from 2003 onwards are galvanised, and by-and-large they are very reliable things. The facelift cars - not so much. The problem is, the facelift cars drive so much nicer than the early ones...
The main problem area in the CLK is the facelift petrol powertrains:
M271 I4 - timing chain & sprockets;
M272 V6 - balancer shaft sprocket;
M273 V8 - front sprocket.
The multi-cylinder engines come with the 7G gearbox which often suffers with conductor plate and valve block problems. From what I gather most issues were ironed out for MY08.
So, what did I do? I bought the cheapest available 2006 350 V6 car with the 7G gearbox. It had covered a not so low 97k miles. It was a complete impulse buy one rainy Saturday in November 2019. I met the 'dealer' at a petrol station in west London, he was smoking in the car and putting burns in the headlining as he deposited the ash outside. I'm sure you have a picture of the situation. Nice. Apparently no issues with the car but a scan revealed pending codes for the balance shaft, and an underlying issue with the 7G gearbox. Very nice. On the positive side it was obvious that whoever owned it prior to the 'dealer' had taken good care of it.
The car did have a number of options:
Advert photos:
More to follow.
The main problem area in the CLK is the facelift petrol powertrains:
M271 I4 - timing chain & sprockets;
M272 V6 - balancer shaft sprocket;
M273 V8 - front sprocket.
The multi-cylinder engines come with the 7G gearbox which often suffers with conductor plate and valve block problems. From what I gather most issues were ironed out for MY08.
So, what did I do? I bought the cheapest available 2006 350 V6 car with the 7G gearbox. It had covered a not so low 97k miles. It was a complete impulse buy one rainy Saturday in November 2019. I met the 'dealer' at a petrol station in west London, he was smoking in the car and putting burns in the headlining as he deposited the ash outside. I'm sure you have a picture of the situation. Nice. Apparently no issues with the car but a scan revealed pending codes for the balance shaft, and an underlying issue with the 7G gearbox. Very nice. On the positive side it was obvious that whoever owned it prior to the 'dealer' had taken good care of it.
The car did have a number of options:
- 17" optional wheels
- AFS (headlamps move with steering wheel)
- Bi-xenons
- Boot liner
- CD changer
- COMAND sat nav
- Cup holder
- Electric memory seats & steering column
- Harman/Kardon
- Heated seats
- Keyless Go
- Luxury climate control
- Parktronic
- Sports suspension
- Sunroof
- TV
- Wood gearknob
- Wood steering wheel
Advert photos:
More to follow.
Edited by mwstewart on Thursday 12th August 10:55
Edited by mwstewart on Thursday 19th August 10:44
5harp3y said:
good god that interior hasn't aged well
I really like it.I checked the cam adjusters and found that the static cam timing was out only very slightly on the LH exhaust bank; the engine is still as quiet as it should be so I'm not going to worry about it for now. The 7G issue is with the conductor plate, not the solenoid body, so it still changes gear OK. The problem on this car does not manifest itself when wafting.
Overall, I think there is 10k miles left in it before anything major happens, so I pressed on to clean it and fix a few small issues.
Problem 01 - Sunroof
Cost: £70
On a top speed run the sunroof glass decided to remove itself with a God almighty crack. Sod's law that MB subsequently issued a recall notice for failed RTV affixing the glass to the sunroof cartridge. I missed that by a couple of weeks. A,B,C pillar trims and the headlining were removed to fit.
Original cartridge shown here with missing glass.
A replacement cartridge was sourced for £50, but it wasn't a simple swap-over because the replacements drains were rusted away. Rather than risk it, I dismantled each assembly and built one good one.
Bad:
Good:
At the same time I fixed another issue where the sun shade would not pull back smoothly. I found that it was missing a couple of the guides
Job done.
Edited by mwstewart on Monday 16th August 11:14
J4CKO said:
So you have had it from 2019 and it hasnt been completely re engineered ?
Where are the hand made Carbon Fibre panels and Titanium fasteners ?
Where are the hand made Carbon Fibre panels and Titanium fasteners ?
Not completely re engineered yet.AMG V12 said:
Contrary to some of the suggestions, I think that looks great! Really nice proportions on the 209 and you can't beat the pillarless windows! I had a C208 430 which had gearbox issues too - never got to the bottom of them. I've been put off the late 209s as a replacement because of all their engine problems so looking forward to seeing how you cope!
Thank you, me too. It's a shame that Mercedes went downhill in the reliability stakes just as some of their cars were starting to look better again. Cleaning - Trim
Cost £6
As the trim was removed to fit the replacement sunroof cartridge it was the ideal opportunity to clean it. Although the car looked clean from a distance, these light interiors do need a bit of maintenance to look A1. I used APC and steam on the headlining and parcel shelf (cardboard backing that will stain the trim from behind if it gets wet), a pressure washer on any trim with a plastic backing, and APC and a brush on the rest.
Before
After
I found that the seat belts wouldn't retract smoothly, so I soaked them overnight in APC. Once dry, I sprayed them with dry silicone.
Cost £6
As the trim was removed to fit the replacement sunroof cartridge it was the ideal opportunity to clean it. Although the car looked clean from a distance, these light interiors do need a bit of maintenance to look A1. I used APC and steam on the headlining and parcel shelf (cardboard backing that will stain the trim from behind if it gets wet), a pressure washer on any trim with a plastic backing, and APC and a brush on the rest.
Before
After
I found that the seat belts wouldn't retract smoothly, so I soaked them overnight in APC. Once dry, I sprayed them with dry silicone.
Edited by mwstewart on Monday 16th August 10:54
Thanks all.
Cleaning - Carpets
Cost £9
I prefer to remove carpets so that they can be cleaned thoroughly with plenty of water, and I can be absolutely sure that they have dried out without making the underlying sound deadening damp. Also I avoid mechanical cleaning methods preferring something that is kinder to the pile. My tried and tested method is to soak the carpet in a diluted APC solution for ~30 minutes, and then use a pressure washer to clean & rinse.
Before:
After:
Cleaning - Carpets
Cost £9
I prefer to remove carpets so that they can be cleaned thoroughly with plenty of water, and I can be absolutely sure that they have dried out without making the underlying sound deadening damp. Also I avoid mechanical cleaning methods preferring something that is kinder to the pile. My tried and tested method is to soak the carpet in a diluted APC solution for ~30 minutes, and then use a pressure washer to clean & rinse.
Before:
After:
Edited by mwstewart on Monday 16th August 10:56
For some strange reason I really enjoy this stuff, but for sure, leasing could be easier
Cleaning - Seats
Cost: £5
As per the rest of the trim, I use a diluted APC mix sprayed on, only this time leaving to soak for 10 minutes due to the synthetic leather being more susceptible to strong detergent than moulded plastic trim. Once soaked, I add more whilst agitating with a detailing brush, and then I wipe it off with a microfibre towel. I finish with another microfibre towel soaked in fresh water.
It likely reads as more involved than it actually is; each seat takes around 20 minutes.
Before - including a couple of test areas on the seat base:
After:
Cleaning - Seats
Cost: £5
As per the rest of the trim, I use a diluted APC mix sprayed on, only this time leaving to soak for 10 minutes due to the synthetic leather being more susceptible to strong detergent than moulded plastic trim. Once soaked, I add more whilst agitating with a detailing brush, and then I wipe it off with a microfibre towel. I finish with another microfibre towel soaked in fresh water.
It likely reads as more involved than it actually is; each seat takes around 20 minutes.
Before - including a couple of test areas on the seat base:
After:
Edited by mwstewart on Monday 16th August 10:55
J4CKO said:
Nice result, might be worth getting a kit from furniture clinic for the last little bits ?
What does your other half say when you arrive with a new car, then proceed take it to bits ?
Suppose she must be used to it by now ?
Yes, good idea, I might do that. What does your other half say when you arrive with a new car, then proceed take it to bits ?
Suppose she must be used to it by now ?
Ha ha. Her view is that it's better to do something constructive rather than sit in a pub all day - not that I would - well, not every weekend anyway
She works Mon-Sat so I get one day per weekend for my hobbies, which is good, because I'm someone likes a bit of my own space - I'd go mad without it.I've no doubt that this will all change when kids come along.
Thank you both.
Retrofit - Electric Rear Blind
Cost: £80
I decided that it would be a shame to refit the parcel shelf without retrofitting an electric rear blind, which would complete the full complement of switches on the dashboard (I like optioned cars). At the time, the only part I could find was for black interior trim, so I bought with the intention of converting my existing parcel shelf.
It's impossible to completely remove the fabric from the parcel shelf and refit it to the same standard as OEM, because it stretches, so I vut up the black parcel shelf to use as a template to cut the aperture on my 'stone' shelf.
Prior to cutting the aperture, I had put a slit in the fabric of my shelf and carefully peeled it away, leaving sufficient clearance to cut out the fibre board backing. Once finished, I glued the fabric to the rear of the shelf and trimmed off the excess. Electric blind equipped parcel shelves have a propensity to vibrate, so I used Sikaflex to securely bond all of the motor mounting tabs to the parcel shelf, and that has proven to do the trick.
Fin. It isn't perfect, but that isn't what this car is about.
The blind is wired in to the rear SAM with a two pin cable.
Retrofit - Electric Rear Blind
Cost: £80
I decided that it would be a shame to refit the parcel shelf without retrofitting an electric rear blind, which would complete the full complement of switches on the dashboard (I like optioned cars). At the time, the only part I could find was for black interior trim, so I bought with the intention of converting my existing parcel shelf.
It's impossible to completely remove the fabric from the parcel shelf and refit it to the same standard as OEM, because it stretches, so I vut up the black parcel shelf to use as a template to cut the aperture on my 'stone' shelf.
Prior to cutting the aperture, I had put a slit in the fabric of my shelf and carefully peeled it away, leaving sufficient clearance to cut out the fibre board backing. Once finished, I glued the fabric to the rear of the shelf and trimmed off the excess. Electric blind equipped parcel shelves have a propensity to vibrate, so I used Sikaflex to securely bond all of the motor mounting tabs to the parcel shelf, and that has proven to do the trick.
Fin. It isn't perfect, but that isn't what this car is about.
The blind is wired in to the rear SAM with a two pin cable.
Edited by mwstewart on Monday 16th August 10:51
Thanks Martin.
Problem 02 - Sticking Boot Release Handle
Cost: £4
The boot is released electronically; by either a button on the drivers door or by pulling a microswitch equipped finger handle on the boot, located between the number plate lights. On this car everything worked only the handle did not return from the 'open' position.
The lower tailgate on the CLK is plastic as this way it's cheaper to produce a tailgate to suit both square and rectangular number plate formats - the steel tailgate remains the same for both type. I found that one of the number plate screws was rusted into its captive fitting but I was successful in drilling it out.
I fixed the handle issue by spraying copious amounts of cutting oil into the mechanism and working the lever back and forth. This lever assembly is specific to Keyless Go cars - the lever is wired as per a standard car and will work only if the car is unlocked, but there is a separate button for keyless entry.
I found a little bit of surface rust hidden behind the number plate trim; some around the lever assembly and spots elsewhere.
I ground away the rust with a Dremel , epoxy primed, and smeared with grease. It isn't pretty but it's a fantastic rust inhibitor.
The securing bolts had rusted so I reassembled with stainless versions.
Problem 02 - Sticking Boot Release Handle
Cost: £4
The boot is released electronically; by either a button on the drivers door or by pulling a microswitch equipped finger handle on the boot, located between the number plate lights. On this car everything worked only the handle did not return from the 'open' position.
The lower tailgate on the CLK is plastic as this way it's cheaper to produce a tailgate to suit both square and rectangular number plate formats - the steel tailgate remains the same for both type. I found that one of the number plate screws was rusted into its captive fitting but I was successful in drilling it out.
I fixed the handle issue by spraying copious amounts of cutting oil into the mechanism and working the lever back and forth. This lever assembly is specific to Keyless Go cars - the lever is wired as per a standard car and will work only if the car is unlocked, but there is a separate button for keyless entry.
I found a little bit of surface rust hidden behind the number plate trim; some around the lever assembly and spots elsewhere.
I ground away the rust with a Dremel , epoxy primed, and smeared with grease. It isn't pretty but it's a fantastic rust inhibitor.
The securing bolts had rusted so I reassembled with stainless versions.
Edited by mwstewart on Monday 16th August 11:15
Problem 03 - Alarm Siren
Cost: £100.32
The alarm triggered one evening and I couldn't shut it off, and I ended up disconnecting the car battery until the morning. A quick bit of reading online revealed two issues with the alarm module & integrated siren: 1) the unit is lifed due to the internal battery, and 2) water ingress can be a problem on the early units like mine.
I found my local MB dealer was the cheapest source for the revised module A219 820 32 26. 219 is the body code for the first generation CLS, but these sirens are all the same bar configurable coding for things like a beep on lock/unlock etc.
The siren is located at the base of the N/S wheelarch, which is a great place to catch dirt and water! The arch liner and a fore section of body undertray must be removed to gain access.
T35 Security Torx screw secures the security cage. From memory there were three of them. The siren is simply unplugged from its harness and swapped over.
I've retrospectively added a cost to each post.
Cost: £100.32
The alarm triggered one evening and I couldn't shut it off, and I ended up disconnecting the car battery until the morning. A quick bit of reading online revealed two issues with the alarm module & integrated siren: 1) the unit is lifed due to the internal battery, and 2) water ingress can be a problem on the early units like mine.
I found my local MB dealer was the cheapest source for the revised module A219 820 32 26. 219 is the body code for the first generation CLS, but these sirens are all the same bar configurable coding for things like a beep on lock/unlock etc.
The siren is located at the base of the N/S wheelarch, which is a great place to catch dirt and water! The arch liner and a fore section of body undertray must be removed to gain access.
T35 Security Torx screw secures the security cage. From memory there were three of them. The siren is simply unplugged from its harness and swapped over.
I've retrospectively added a cost to each post.
Edited by mwstewart on Monday 16th August 11:16
Problem 04 - Battery Drain
Cost: £38
I had a phantom battery drain which would completely discharge the battery if left for more than a week. I suspected the rear SAM and so I began investigating in that area. I found evidence of something that had been added (see green rectangle).
The SAM or Signal Acquisition Module is a fuse box - or more accurately a PDU - and CAN module rolled into one. It is coded according to installed options and IIRC it is a one-time coding. The SAM is accessed by removing the N/S boot trim panel.
I traced the current draw to a faulty tracker, which I removed.
This fix was free but the drain had uncovered a failing battery, so I gave my Dad some money for a new spare that he had unused in his garage, and fitted that.
Cost: £38
I had a phantom battery drain which would completely discharge the battery if left for more than a week. I suspected the rear SAM and so I began investigating in that area. I found evidence of something that had been added (see green rectangle).
The SAM or Signal Acquisition Module is a fuse box - or more accurately a PDU - and CAN module rolled into one. It is coded according to installed options and IIRC it is a one-time coding. The SAM is accessed by removing the N/S boot trim panel.
I traced the current draw to a faulty tracker, which I removed.
This fix was free but the drain had uncovered a failing battery, so I gave my Dad some money for a new spare that he had unused in his garage, and fitted that.
Shnozz said:
I do think that is largely down to the wood. Mine has silver trim panels and leather and doesn't feel aged IMHO.
Another meticulous restoration job OP - your attention to detail simply amazes me.
I bought a cheap old CLK cabrio as a daily snotter when my Aston needed a few months worth of work off the road. Rather got under my skin it has.
I get that, the Avantgarde Aluminium trim is more sporty, afraid though I'm a wood guy Another meticulous restoration job OP - your attention to detail simply amazes me.
I bought a cheap old CLK cabrio as a daily snotter when my Aston needed a few months worth of work off the road. Rather got under my skin it has.
Thank you!
They have got under mine as well - they look very good and are very relaxing to drive. It's just a pleasant thing use.
J4CKO said:
Always fancied the CLK500 with the later 5.5 M273 engine, bit of a Unicorn though as wasn't around long and have got a bit expensive, well, everything has these days.
Very rare, and, yes, agreed. I've seen them above 10k. I remember when people couldn't give away the V8s...not any more.Shnozz said:
Can fully appreciate that. Sort of suits that spec a bit more too, whereas mine has the AMG wheels etc so suits a more sporty interior, perhaps. It's relaxing to drive as you say, wafting along. Mine has the flappy paddles but not sure they really suit the drive of the car, most of the time I leave it in auto comfort mode to be honest.
Have you looked into changing the stereo for a more modern unit by any chance? One of my next jobs and had my eye on this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B087WVKCC6/?coliid=IY2...
I would do - the feature list is impressive - but it isn't straight-forward on my car due to the TV option and Harman/Kardon sound system on the MOST fibre ring. I'd loose those if going for an Android unit. TV isn't a great loss but the HK would be.Have you looked into changing the stereo for a more modern unit by any chance? One of my next jobs and had my eye on this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B087WVKCC6/?coliid=IY2...
Rangeroverover said:
Amazing as usual..........I imagine the words you dread most from your partner are "great news I don't have to work saturdays anymore". I had just that and had my weekly "me" day taken away from me,
Thank you. Between us: yes J4CKO said:
Yeah, I sold my CLS with that engine to a PHer for 5 grand four years ago, 2008 facelift, 110,000 or so miles, pretty tidy, no major faults (wonky door mirror and a squeak from the suspension)
Just no takers, nicest engine I have owned, made the BMW N55 feel low rent in comparison, sublime.
Even sketchy looking ones with Matte black wraps and crap wheels go up for 7/8 grand.
You've made me really want one now!Just no takers, nicest engine I have owned, made the BMW N55 feel low rent in comparison, sublime.
Even sketchy looking ones with Matte black wraps and crap wheels go up for 7/8 grand.
Problem 04 - Brakes
Cost: £186.87
Front pads: A0044205120 (ECP Brembo 10122086A £50.59)
Front discs: A2034210412 (Febi 43951 £78.16)
Rear pads: A0054201920 (Mintex MDB1991 £19.93)
Rear discs: A2104230612 (Mintex MDC854C £27.75)
Wear sensor 2115401717 (Aftermarket £3.99)
DOT 4 fluid 1 litre (SCT £6.45)
The final issue to resolve was the brakes. The wear light wasn't on when I bought the car but the discs were worn and well down on their braking ability due to the loss of mass. There are many brake system types fitted to the CLK so it is important to order the correct parts: my car has 290mm discs at the rear, and being an Elegance two piston calipers at the front that suit smaller diameter (17") wheels, and 330mm plain discs rather than drilled, for smoother brake application.
When working on the front calipers I found that some of the pads had rusted into their recess and had begun to stick. I removed the scale on the caliper with a hammer and small chisel, and then wire brushed and smeared with grease. I painted both caliper and disc bell with silver Hammerite.
I use a petrol soaked rag to wipe away any excess paint - I find this approach must faster than masking off.
It was the same situation at the rear. The discs were Dacromet coated but I applied Hammerite for extra protection.
Before refitting the wheels I wire brushed and painted the wheel bolts.
Cost: £186.87
Front pads: A0044205120 (ECP Brembo 10122086A £50.59)
Front discs: A2034210412 (Febi 43951 £78.16)
Rear pads: A0054201920 (Mintex MDB1991 £19.93)
Rear discs: A2104230612 (Mintex MDC854C £27.75)
Wear sensor 2115401717 (Aftermarket £3.99)
DOT 4 fluid 1 litre (SCT £6.45)
The final issue to resolve was the brakes. The wear light wasn't on when I bought the car but the discs were worn and well down on their braking ability due to the loss of mass. There are many brake system types fitted to the CLK so it is important to order the correct parts: my car has 290mm discs at the rear, and being an Elegance two piston calipers at the front that suit smaller diameter (17") wheels, and 330mm plain discs rather than drilled, for smoother brake application.
When working on the front calipers I found that some of the pads had rusted into their recess and had begun to stick. I removed the scale on the caliper with a hammer and small chisel, and then wire brushed and smeared with grease. I painted both caliper and disc bell with silver Hammerite.
I use a petrol soaked rag to wipe away any excess paint - I find this approach must faster than masking off.
It was the same situation at the rear. The discs were Dacromet coated but I applied Hammerite for extra protection.
Before refitting the wheels I wire brushed and painted the wheel bolts.
Service & Tyres
Cost: £253.43
The car has FSH but I had my man service it for peace of mind.
Air filter £13.04
Mann HU718/5x Oil Filter £10.39
10L Genuine Mercedes Benz 5W30 C Class Engine Oil MB229.51 Fully Synthetic £45 (eBay bargain)
Service cost £50
The rear tyres were low when I bought it and they lasted 5k. I replaced them with 6mm part worn Continentals at £120 + £15 fitting.
Cost: £253.43
The car has FSH but I had my man service it for peace of mind.
Air filter £13.04
Mann HU718/5x Oil Filter £10.39
10L Genuine Mercedes Benz 5W30 C Class Engine Oil MB229.51 Fully Synthetic £45 (eBay bargain)
Service cost £50
The rear tyres were low when I bought it and they lasted 5k. I replaced them with 6mm part worn Continentals at £120 + £15 fitting.
Non-Sport Suspension
Cost £520.48
Mercedes go into great detail with their spring and damper combinations - more so than any other manufacturer that I have experience with. The various options in the car are assigned with points, and the points tally for a car corresponds to a particular setup at the front & rear. Furthermore, there are three categories of suspension components: non-sport, sport, and high ground clearance, and two markets: US and RoW. My research showed that the US market suspension components were the softest of all i.e. the US sport was softer than the RoW sport, and likewise the US non-sport was softer than the RoW non-sport. The categories and markets generally apply to the hardware e.g. ARBs or shocks, but the spring rates can and do vary widely from car-to-car, and can be considered spec agnostic.
I decided to change the suspension to make the ride more compliant, which was really an indulgence; there was no absolutely need to do it only I'm quite fussy about suspension.
My spring rate research table is below:
http://www.mwstewart.co.uk/images/cars/Mercedes-Be...
There's little choice at the rear and my car already had blue/blue/blue, so I kept that. At the front I went for red/red/white as a balance between ride height and spring rate.
On to the rest of the suspension and I found that the sport suspension has different ARBs, bump stops, shock absorbers, and front drop links. I found a pair of new US market non-sport front shocks on eBay for less than half the discounted price I could get at the dealer, which was quite fortuitous.
I picked up a pair of low mileage rear US market non-sport shocks from eBay.com. I also went with US market spec non-sport F&R ARBs - the available options are below:
Front
20mm | US market non-sport (M12 drop link fastening) | A2033234265
21mm | RoW non-sport / US market sport (M12 drop link fastening) | A2033234365
22mm | RoW Sport (M14 drop link fastening) | A2033234465
Rear
14mm | US market non-sport | A2033261365
15mm | RoW non-sport / US market sport | A2033261465
16mm | RoW Sport | A2033261565
These are a reasonable price from the dealer and come with the bushes which are moulded to the ARB in an effort to reduce noise.
Dampers and ARBs.
I had my man fit everything and I am pleased with the result; objective met. I also learnt something from all of this: next time I would take a hybrid approach with the dampers and ARBs by retaining the RoW sport ARBs but go down further on the spring rates; I find the sharper turn-in of the thicker ARB is an acceptable trade-off for the slightly choppier ride over very uneven surfaces, but overall this could be trimmed by even lower spring rates (many are available). The only compromise is a higher ride height and the non-sport front damper drop link attachments would need drilling out from M12 to M14. This would be a very minor optimisation so I likely won't do it
I run CLK tyre pressures at 30psi front and rear as I find this provides the optimum tread wear and comfort.
Cost £520.48
- Front bump stop & dust cover | non-sport | A2033200744 (Lemforder £32.24)
- Front struts | US non-sport | A2033206530 (eBay OEM 300138 £80)
- Front drop links | non-sport | A2033202889 (Meyle HD £32.95)
- Front anti-roll bar | US non-sport | A2033234265 (OEM £65)
- Rear drop links (Meyle HD £29.95)
- Rear struts | US non-sport | A2093260300 (eBay OEM £105.34)
- Rear anti-roll bar | US non-sport | A2033261365 (OEM £65)
- Fitting £110
Mercedes go into great detail with their spring and damper combinations - more so than any other manufacturer that I have experience with. The various options in the car are assigned with points, and the points tally for a car corresponds to a particular setup at the front & rear. Furthermore, there are three categories of suspension components: non-sport, sport, and high ground clearance, and two markets: US and RoW. My research showed that the US market suspension components were the softest of all i.e. the US sport was softer than the RoW sport, and likewise the US non-sport was softer than the RoW non-sport. The categories and markets generally apply to the hardware e.g. ARBs or shocks, but the spring rates can and do vary widely from car-to-car, and can be considered spec agnostic.
I decided to change the suspension to make the ride more compliant, which was really an indulgence; there was no absolutely need to do it only I'm quite fussy about suspension.
My spring rate research table is below:
http://www.mwstewart.co.uk/images/cars/Mercedes-Be...
There's little choice at the rear and my car already had blue/blue/blue, so I kept that. At the front I went for red/red/white as a balance between ride height and spring rate.
On to the rest of the suspension and I found that the sport suspension has different ARBs, bump stops, shock absorbers, and front drop links. I found a pair of new US market non-sport front shocks on eBay for less than half the discounted price I could get at the dealer, which was quite fortuitous.
I picked up a pair of low mileage rear US market non-sport shocks from eBay.com. I also went with US market spec non-sport F&R ARBs - the available options are below:
Front
20mm | US market non-sport (M12 drop link fastening) | A2033234265
21mm | RoW non-sport / US market sport (M12 drop link fastening) | A2033234365
22mm | RoW Sport (M14 drop link fastening) | A2033234465
Rear
14mm | US market non-sport | A2033261365
15mm | RoW non-sport / US market sport | A2033261465
16mm | RoW Sport | A2033261565
These are a reasonable price from the dealer and come with the bushes which are moulded to the ARB in an effort to reduce noise.
Dampers and ARBs.
I had my man fit everything and I am pleased with the result; objective met. I also learnt something from all of this: next time I would take a hybrid approach with the dampers and ARBs by retaining the RoW sport ARBs but go down further on the spring rates; I find the sharper turn-in of the thicker ARB is an acceptable trade-off for the slightly choppier ride over very uneven surfaces, but overall this could be trimmed by even lower spring rates (many are available). The only compromise is a higher ride height and the non-sport front damper drop link attachments would need drilling out from M12 to M14. This would be a very minor optimisation so I likely won't do it
I run CLK tyre pressures at 30psi front and rear as I find this provides the optimum tread wear and comfort.
Completed
Well, as they say, that's a wrap. I'm about to reach 11k miles in my ownership, and in my view at this mileage I've already had my value out of the car. I expect to get another 5-7k of life out of it. It isn't a mint car by any means, but it's presentable and I've grown very fond of it - actually more so than the CLK63 which is really a bit too much engine for the road. This car is comfortable, looks great, has a very nice interior, and the steering, brakes, gearbox, and engine are all very pleasing to use.
I've spent some time considering what what to do with the car once the engine signals its impending death - at which point I'll stop driving it in order to leave the engine in a repairable state, rather than ruining it entirely. I've measured up for the M275 V12 biturbo engine but that doesn't fit, and based on my CLK63 experience that would be overkill anyway, so I'll do one of three things:
1) Keep this car as a spare parts car for another CLK, and a donor for the rare options;
2) Convert to a V8;
3) Use the engine from the next CLK (lower mileage car) to repair this one, and convert the next CLK to a full-spec V8.
Either way, I can make use of all parts that I've fitted to this one.
Until next time...
Well, as they say, that's a wrap. I'm about to reach 11k miles in my ownership, and in my view at this mileage I've already had my value out of the car. I expect to get another 5-7k of life out of it. It isn't a mint car by any means, but it's presentable and I've grown very fond of it - actually more so than the CLK63 which is really a bit too much engine for the road. This car is comfortable, looks great, has a very nice interior, and the steering, brakes, gearbox, and engine are all very pleasing to use.
I've spent some time considering what what to do with the car once the engine signals its impending death - at which point I'll stop driving it in order to leave the engine in a repairable state, rather than ruining it entirely. I've measured up for the M275 V12 biturbo engine but that doesn't fit, and based on my CLK63 experience that would be overkill anyway, so I'll do one of three things:
1) Keep this car as a spare parts car for another CLK, and a donor for the rare options;
2) Convert to a V8;
3) Use the engine from the next CLK (lower mileage car) to repair this one, and convert the next CLK to a full-spec V8.
Either way, I can make use of all parts that I've fitted to this one.
Until next time...
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