I've just bought some poverty Pork…
Discussion
edc said:
I'd take the 2.9 at that price if condition and history are comparable. My first 986 had 58k and having got comfortable my next buy was 105k. 45k miles is nothing but coming up to 15 years old irrespective of mileage stuff does wear out and suspension won't feel factory fresh.
On that point are suspension elements easy to swap if I decided to in the future? Tried on my z3 but it’s a massive job involving dropping the whole rear beam etc just seemed disproportionately high costI know I posted the 45k mile 2.9 earlier, but I would rather get a 2011 with 80-100k on it than a 2009 with 50k miles on it.
Age is the killer on these cars, Porsche like to mix alloy and steel together and in the UK age starts to get them corroding together.
Pinch bolts that should take 5 minutes to remove can take you 5 hours, or more.
Changing suspension is in theory fine, the main arms, coffin arms and track rods should all be fine.
Look at the top mounts and make sure the bolts are not all seized up, you will have to think about top mounts and bearings sooner rather than later now they are 12-17 years old, and the front damper is held in place by the drop link, which can be a real pig. But a 2010/11 car should be OK still.
Just be aware though, a basic damper like a Bilstein B4 with say Eibach springs will cost you £1000 including all the mounting hardware for the fronts only.
Front arms, drop links and track rods you will be looking at £400 for just the parts.
The rear you will be looking at the same again.
If you like to spanner newer is better imho. Unless the 50k mile older car has been a garage queen and only ever driven in the dry. Age related seizing can be a real pig on these.
Age is the killer on these cars, Porsche like to mix alloy and steel together and in the UK age starts to get them corroding together.
Pinch bolts that should take 5 minutes to remove can take you 5 hours, or more.
Changing suspension is in theory fine, the main arms, coffin arms and track rods should all be fine.
Look at the top mounts and make sure the bolts are not all seized up, you will have to think about top mounts and bearings sooner rather than later now they are 12-17 years old, and the front damper is held in place by the drop link, which can be a real pig. But a 2010/11 car should be OK still.
Just be aware though, a basic damper like a Bilstein B4 with say Eibach springs will cost you £1000 including all the mounting hardware for the fronts only.
Front arms, drop links and track rods you will be looking at £400 for just the parts.
The rear you will be looking at the same again.
If you like to spanner newer is better imho. Unless the 50k mile older car has been a garage queen and only ever driven in the dry. Age related seizing can be a real pig on these.
deutsche.diagnostics said:
I know I posted the 45k mile 2.9 earlier, but I would rather get a 2011 with 80-100k on it than a 2009 with 50k miles on it.
Your overall point is of course a good one but here you're talking a difference of 2 years. Not really going to swing it as a decider for many I suspect.Sorry, that was more in response to the OP saying he had seen a 2006 car with 45k miles on it.
I would rather take the newer car with more miles.
However, depends where the car has lived and been used too. A 2011 from the highlands with 50k is probably going to be more of a pain than an 80k 2006 car from the south coast that is only brought out in the sunshine.
I guess you never really know until you start to work on it.
I would rather take the newer car with more miles.
However, depends where the car has lived and been used too. A 2011 from the highlands with 50k is probably going to be more of a pain than an 80k 2006 car from the south coast that is only brought out in the sunshine.
I guess you never really know until you start to work on it.
deutsche.diagnostics said:
Sorry, that was more in response to the OP saying he had seen a 2006 car with 45k miles on it.
I would rather take the newer car with more miles.
However, depends where the car has lived and been used too. A 2011 from the highlands with 50k is probably going to be more of a pain than an 80k 2006 car from the south coast that is only brought out in the sunshine.
I guess you never really know until you start to work on it.
I would have thought it the other way around, if a car’s been living in the highlands then it’s most likely have been fully heated up every time it’s been started and spent little time in slow moving traffic.I would rather take the newer car with more miles.
However, depends where the car has lived and been used too. A 2011 from the highlands with 50k is probably going to be more of a pain than an 80k 2006 car from the south coast that is only brought out in the sunshine.
I guess you never really know until you start to work on it.
Yeah there is that, but I was thinking that somewhere like the Highlands gets 250 days a year of rain and over 3000mm, compare that with East Anglia at just under 100 days and 600mm.
I was just thinking it is probably far easier to leave you car in the garage on rainy days when you don't have 2/3 of the year as a rainy day!
I look at the videos of people doing suspension changes on 25 year old Porsches in California and everything looks in amazing condition. Everything comes apart nice and easy, and they get a complete suspension refresh done in a few hours, the same time it takes us to wrestle a pinch bolt out.
I was just thinking it is probably far easier to leave you car in the garage on rainy days when you don't have 2/3 of the year as a rainy day!
I look at the videos of people doing suspension changes on 25 year old Porsches in California and everything looks in amazing condition. Everything comes apart nice and easy, and they get a complete suspension refresh done in a few hours, the same time it takes us to wrestle a pinch bolt out.
deutsche.diagnostics said:
Yeah there is that, but I was thinking that somewhere like the Highlands gets 250 days a year of rain and over 3000mm, compare that with East Anglia at just under 100 days and 600mm.
I was just thinking it is probably far easier to leave you car in the garage on rainy days when you don't have 2/3 of the year as a rainy day!
I look at the videos of people doing suspension changes on 25 year old Porsches in California and everything looks in amazing condition. Everything comes apart nice and easy, and they get a complete suspension refresh done in a few hours, the same time it takes us to wrestle a pinch bolt out.
They have an awful lot of salt on the road in winter too. pretty much all of the 996's I've seen with corrosion problems have spent time in Scotland.I was just thinking it is probably far easier to leave you car in the garage on rainy days when you don't have 2/3 of the year as a rainy day!
I look at the videos of people doing suspension changes on 25 year old Porsches in California and everything looks in amazing condition. Everything comes apart nice and easy, and they get a complete suspension refresh done in a few hours, the same time it takes us to wrestle a pinch bolt out.
TROOPER88 said:
A suspension refresh Will be needed on all 986’s if it’s not been done.
Lots of seized bolts.
I work on them daily and believe it or not the 87’s are worse!!
I've been quite lucky with my own leggy cars (only one seized coffin arm bolt) but I helped a friend with his "always garaged" 987.2 a year or so ago and every single bolt was seized solid. It turned a simple two hour job into an all day affair and was absolutely no fun (he very kindly bought me a crate of wine to make up for it!)Lots of seized bolts.
I work on them daily and believe it or not the 87’s are worse!!
Moderator edit: no advertising please
LennyM1984 said:
I've been quite lucky with my own leggy cars (only one seized coffin arm bolt) but I helped a friend with his "always garaged" 987.2 a year or so ago and every single bolt was seized solid. It turned a simple two hour job into an all day affair and was absolutely no fun (he very kindly bought me a crate of wine to make up for it!)
Precisely what its like tbh. The 87's as I say are worse.At times, it is quicker and cheaper to source a second hand hub than it is to remove a seized drop link.
A suspension refresh will be needed on all 986’s if it’s not been done.
I can complete a full front end refresh on a 986 for not a lot of money (1.5k).
This is using all new parts: Bilstein B4’s, TRW drop links, Spyder top mounts, bearings, bump stops, tuning forks and lower control arms (wishbones)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295762193924
136k miles £9000 997
I assume it's a scam but it might be genuine??
136k miles £9000 997
I assume it's a scam but it might be genuine??
shalmaneser said:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295762193924
136k miles £9000 997
I assume it's a scam but it might be genuine??
Listing removed.136k miles £9000 997
I assume it's a scam but it might be genuine??
I think this is probably about the cheapest 996 I have seen. A C4 manual. I don’t like the rear spoiler at all but maybe not a bad car.?
Good job it’s in Montrose rather than Mansfield (for eg) or I might be tempted to have a look!
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202306218...
Good job it’s in Montrose rather than Mansfield (for eg) or I might be tempted to have a look!
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202306218...
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