valvoline VR1 Raceing mineral oil 20/50...anyone using it?
Discussion
Big sorry for the 'oil' question but I've just finished running in my engine and wondering what to go for next?.
I ran Pro S before my re-build for 10K miles but in that time I also gained small end chatter so not keen to go back there... (this being the reason for the re-build)
I've just called in at Simmonites (Land Rover people) on the way home from work to ask what filters they stock (another post) and he asked what oil I was going to use?...
They run their 5.2 / 5.4 race engines on Valvoline VR1 Racing oil... he said don't go with full synthetic as it will glaze the bores and introduce piston noises (not sure why it will glaze the bore on a V8 but not on anything else??).. Anyway it could have been the cause of my chatter with the old pistons, who knows??..
I also think Rob recommended VR1 at one point although I've seen posts since saying Pro S?.. And I'm not sure what John Eales uses.. or Dom come to that....
But I suppose the question is, will VR1 be as good as a full Synthetic if changed every year based on about 2K - 3K miles
I ran Pro S before my re-build for 10K miles but in that time I also gained small end chatter so not keen to go back there... (this being the reason for the re-build)
I've just called in at Simmonites (Land Rover people) on the way home from work to ask what filters they stock (another post) and he asked what oil I was going to use?...
They run their 5.2 / 5.4 race engines on Valvoline VR1 Racing oil... he said don't go with full synthetic as it will glaze the bores and introduce piston noises (not sure why it will glaze the bore on a V8 but not on anything else??).. Anyway it could have been the cause of my chatter with the old pistons, who knows??..
I also think Rob recommended VR1 at one point although I've seen posts since saying Pro S?.. And I'm not sure what John Eales uses.. or Dom come to that....
But I suppose the question is, will VR1 be as good as a full Synthetic if changed every year based on about 2K - 3K miles
Edited by TVR Beaver on Tuesday 18th June 21:14
I am quite happy using the mineral VR1 changed once a year with relatively little mileage, but I dont get this dont use synthetic on a new engine. Why? Why will it glaze the bores and stop the rings bedding in properly. Most manufacturers put synthetic in their egines from new and dont have problems. Is there any evidence to back this up or is it just rumour gossip.
Mine's just been serviced, now has VR1 20/50 installed for the 1st time. Mine has the common 5 ltr chattering at low rev overrun (car has 25k miles now). Opinions seem to differ as to the cause of the sound (cam / lifters / small ends / tappets) but I hoped the VR1 may stifle it a bit, don't think it's much altered. Was on Mobil 1 10/60 longlife, I'm glad I'm not shelling out for that stuff any more -ouch.
I use it too in my 97 400. It is great value and perfectly adequate.
I think the major benefit Synthetic has over mineral is longevity. modern cars have 10 and 15k service intervals and that's mainly why they use it.
In an engine where you are changing oil every few thousand miles mineral is fine, in fact expensive synthetic is a waste of money.
I think the major benefit Synthetic has over mineral is longevity. modern cars have 10 and 15k service intervals and that's mainly why they use it.
In an engine where you are changing oil every few thousand miles mineral is fine, in fact expensive synthetic is a waste of money.
Thanks guy's... the car never goes out in winter so I'm not too bothered about the 20 bit... I always let it warm up 70 on the gauge before putting the foot down anyway
Chilliman, did you tell Rob you were using VR1?.. whats his comments?
the only referance to it I can see in the oil posts is one where Opie Oil man is saying its a bit thick for cold starts and full synth would be better
$$$$ ... TBH I'm not bothered about the cost if its £25 for 5 Ltrs or £50 for 5 ltrs so long as it's the best for then engine... obviously if its a cheaper option that is nice but it makes me wonder why when fitted with the 'best', the small ends became noisey?.. if indeed it was small ends.. all I can say is it's gone now.. could it have been glazing?.. who knows... I just don't want it back 
Chilliman, did you tell Rob you were using VR1?.. whats his comments?
the only referance to it I can see in the oil posts is one where Opie Oil man is saying its a bit thick for cold starts and full synth would be better
$$$$ ... TBH I'm not bothered about the cost if its £25 for 5 Ltrs or £50 for 5 ltrs so long as it's the best for then engine... obviously if its a cheaper option that is nice but it makes me wonder why when fitted with the 'best', the small ends became noisey?.. if indeed it was small ends.. all I can say is it's gone now.. could it have been glazing?.. who knows... I just don't want it back yes, doing just fine thank you now the engines back in and all sorted
I was sure it was Rob who'd quoted VR1 to me... but this is from one of his posts questioning Opie oils about their advice :-
''its just that i supply silkoline pro s 10/50 for the rover v8 engines which i swear by and wouldnt use anything else, and have done extensive dyno time with these engines,raced them and had road cars, surely silkoline or motul or whoever dont do tests on every engine? ''
that said, it was in 2006 but he's still telling you to use it now ?.... Interesting....
Will fire a mail off to Mr Eals tomorrow see what he thinks of it.. Let's face it, these guy's must see more engine internals in a week than we might in our lifetime
If the only real differance is length of service.. but its fine to 3K, then I see no reason not to use it
now the engines back in and all sorted I was sure it was Rob who'd quoted VR1 to me... but this is from one of his posts questioning Opie oils about their advice :-
''its just that i supply silkoline pro s 10/50 for the rover v8 engines which i swear by and wouldnt use anything else, and have done extensive dyno time with these engines,raced them and had road cars, surely silkoline or motul or whoever dont do tests on every engine? ''
that said, it was in 2006 but he's still telling you to use it now ?.... Interesting....
Will fire a mail off to Mr Eals tomorrow see what he thinks of it.. Let's face it, these guy's must see more engine internals in a week than we might in our lifetime
If the only real differance is length of service.. but its fine to 3K, then I see no reason not to use it
Edited by TVR Beaver on Tuesday 18th June 22:50
Digger said:
So which other suitable oils are known to have zinc in them?
Quite a few, but you can always add Zinc yuourself??See here: http://www.frost.co.uk/additives-oils/classic-vehi...
Trev
I have to agree with TR Beaver -- the most damage we face is surely at cold start up. I was told by David Batty, who I regard as a very knowledgeable engineer, that when he first came across the chatter on a 5 litre he was concerned and took the engine down and decided that the chatter was not a problem but was caused - if my recollection is right - by two of the bits at the bottom end (technical being not my strong suit) being rather close together. I suppose a thicker oil might act as more of a "cushion" but I prefer the thinner synthetic Pro S because of the cold start issue. Otherwise I suspect they are much of a muchness
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