The 3D Printer Thread
Discussion
Scabutz said:
geeks said:
Ok so that sounds like the Z height is too high and or the bed isn't level (keeping in mind ABL can only do so much, it's not magic). What are you using to set the Z offset? I home mine, then place a sheet of paper on the bed, set the Z height to 0 then open the Z offset and and start lowering it until I can only just feel the paper drag on the nozzle, then you have to go to config and save config, that last part is very important. Also make sure your nozzle is free of any plastic before doing this, if needs be heat the extruder, retract the filament 10mm or so then make sure the nozzle is clear. Once that is done then you can make sure the bed is level. Home axis, set z to zero, motors off them manually move to the four corner screws and adjust until the paper is only just dragging the nozzle, do this a few times and you should be set.
What do you mean by the bed moving? Got a vid? Shame I am not in MK anymore or I would pop over and help.
Yes that's how I set it. What I mean by the bed moving is I set the z offset do a couple of prints. 3rd goes to sWhat do you mean by the bed moving? Got a vid? Shame I am not in MK anymore or I would pop over and help.
t, so re do the z offset and its different. There are a couple of sites of people saying the stock springs are s
t and to upgrade them.geeks said:
Scabutz said:
geeks said:
Ok so that sounds like the Z height is too high and or the bed isn't level (keeping in mind ABL can only do so much, it's not magic). What are you using to set the Z offset? I home mine, then place a sheet of paper on the bed, set the Z height to 0 then open the Z offset and and start lowering it until I can only just feel the paper drag on the nozzle, then you have to go to config and save config, that last part is very important. Also make sure your nozzle is free of any plastic before doing this, if needs be heat the extruder, retract the filament 10mm or so then make sure the nozzle is clear. Once that is done then you can make sure the bed is level. Home axis, set z to zero, motors off them manually move to the four corner screws and adjust until the paper is only just dragging the nozzle, do this a few times and you should be set.
What do you mean by the bed moving? Got a vid? Shame I am not in MK anymore or I would pop over and help.
Yes that's how I set it. What I mean by the bed moving is I set the z offset do a couple of prints. 3rd goes to sWhat do you mean by the bed moving? Got a vid? Shame I am not in MK anymore or I would pop over and help.
t, so re do the z offset and its different. There are a couple of sites of people saying the stock springs are s
t and to upgrade them.Caddyshack said:
Do people store their filament in sealed containers or just leave for months on the machines?
I know this is very late, but before I bought desiccant vacuum bags, I store all my filament in a big plastic box at the top of my airing cupboard which sits at around 30C constantly. Works a treat. devnull said:
Caddyshack said:
Do people store their filament in sealed containers or just leave for months on the machines?
I know this is very late, but before I bought desiccant vacuum bags, I store all my filament in a big plastic box at the top of my airing cupboard which sits at around 30C constantly. Works a treat. PLA and PLA+ out on display on shelves abour twenty reels within th ehouse so not damp. Never had a problem
ABS Nylon etc plastic bag and sunlu prior to use
julian64 said:
Surely depends on the filament?
PLA and PLA+ out on display on shelves abour twenty reels within th ehouse so not damp. Never had a problem
ABS Nylon etc plastic bag and sunlu prior to use
I think you have been quite lucky there with the PLA. I've seen poor printing and brittle filament through wet filament across a number of different spools.PLA and PLA+ out on display on shelves abour twenty reels within th ehouse so not damp. Never had a problem
ABS Nylon etc plastic bag and sunlu prior to use
Having said that, my Bambu seems far more tolerant of what is put through it than the Ender 3 I was using previously. I still tend to give them a blast in the dryer before use though (assuming they've not been left in my desiccant filled AMS)
egomeister said:
julian64 said:
Surely depends on the filament?
PLA and PLA+ out on display on shelves abour twenty reels within th ehouse so not damp. Never had a problem
ABS Nylon etc plastic bag and sunlu prior to use
I think you have been quite lucky there with the PLA. I've seen poor printing and brittle filament through wet filament across a number of different spools.PLA and PLA+ out on display on shelves abour twenty reels within th ehouse so not damp. Never had a problem
ABS Nylon etc plastic bag and sunlu prior to use
Having said that, my Bambu seems far more tolerant of what is put through it than the Ender 3 I was using previously. I still tend to give them a blast in the dryer before use though (assuming they've not been left in my desiccant filled AMS)
I pushed for a filament printer at work to enable us to do a few specialised light duty agricultural bits and pieces, got an Anycubic Kobra Max for £400 which can manage 450 x 400 x 400 mm.
We've made quite a few inserts, computer brackets etc. but we are particularly impressed with printing flexible gaskets that would be a right pain with other methods.
We've also been able to easily test dozens of prototypes of a quite complicated particulate flow project.
There's been a bit of a learning curve with random blockages, screws around the head coming loose, different size nozzles etc. but absolutely worth spending the time on practicing.
Rather easier we use it to make a load of "exactly right" box dividers for our parts carousel (stops parts flopping out of the boxes while maintaining visibility of what's inside). My own design done on Tinkercad, printing PLA at 195 degrees / 50 degree bed, reckon they cost about 20p each.
We've made quite a few inserts, computer brackets etc. but we are particularly impressed with printing flexible gaskets that would be a right pain with other methods.
We've also been able to easily test dozens of prototypes of a quite complicated particulate flow project.
There's been a bit of a learning curve with random blockages, screws around the head coming loose, different size nozzles etc. but absolutely worth spending the time on practicing.
Rather easier we use it to make a load of "exactly right" box dividers for our parts carousel (stops parts flopping out of the boxes while maintaining visibility of what's inside). My own design done on Tinkercad, printing PLA at 195 degrees / 50 degree bed, reckon they cost about 20p each.
Yazza54 said:
julian64 said:
Yazza54 said:
julian64 said:
Yazza54 said:
TPU velocity stacks. Got 95A TPU printing very nicely on my P1P now after a fair few teething problems and setup adjustments.
Interested in you use of these. Won't they melt in use?I then printed out and used in a greensand mould with aluminium. If you did have problems, I would go there next. But I would be interested if the materials you are using do make it any length of time because obviously things have improved since I last tried it, if thats the case.
I've had a mess with a heat gun as well with some scrap prints and they take a fair beating before they start going soft. Way more heat than they're gonna see in my application. The throttle bodies are rubber mounted to the head so insulated heat wise on that side, and given it's a race engine it won't be spending much time at low speeds where heat soak could be a problem.
I actually have my airbox temps logged, and on a hot day 20 Min race I didn't see over 26 degrees Celsius. Sat on start line, around 38 degrees, immediately starts dropping as soon as the cars moving, and this was a bloody hot day. I don't think it's anything to worry about at these temps and I have made them pretty stiff with plenty of infill.
If it was in a normal car engine bay, as you've said I don't think I would go this route. What TPU did you use?
Edited by Yazza54 on Friday 24th February 15:09
Some of the pieces to retain them as part of the mounting kit I originally made from ASA and I eventually replaced them all with PACF versions, found the ASA very underwhelming by comparison, brittle and poor layer adhesion.
Hi all,
Got a Bambu X1Carbon, but want to know if its easy/possible to run two side by side. There seems to not be much info online about doing this, and can only assume its because the X1C is probably hobby market (albeit an excellent printer).
So, can the software let me run 2 alongside each other?
Or is there a better alternative? Another printer make/model all together? I wouldn't be averse to looking at something slightly higher up the price scale, if it could be justified with additional features/speed/quality/capability etc. That being said, probably have a £3k ceiling on spends.
Thoughts?
Got a Bambu X1Carbon, but want to know if its easy/possible to run two side by side. There seems to not be much info online about doing this, and can only assume its because the X1C is probably hobby market (albeit an excellent printer).
So, can the software let me run 2 alongside each other?
Or is there a better alternative? Another printer make/model all together? I wouldn't be averse to looking at something slightly higher up the price scale, if it could be justified with additional features/speed/quality/capability etc. That being said, probably have a £3k ceiling on spends.
Thoughts?
egomeister said:
What do you mean? Plenty of people run multiple machines.
Software-wise I'd assume that they will all show up in Bambu slicer assuming you add them all to the same account, and then you select which one you want to send the print to. That's how I interpret the UI anyway
Yeah that is basically what I was wondering. I assumed I wasn't the first person to want to use 2 machines Software-wise I'd assume that they will all show up in Bambu slicer assuming you add them all to the same account, and then you select which one you want to send the print to. That's how I interpret the UI anyway
but didn't know if the one Bambu window was designed to run multiple machines side by side.Thanks for your thoughts though - might just dive in!
if anyone has a coffee shop near you, https://techxplore.com/news/2023-09-3d-coffee-grou...
I would assume you just add x machines to your account and then in Bambu Studio just choose which printer to work with from the the list (top left corner) on the Device tab or if using Bambu Handy click the Device Id at the top of the screen.
Don't forget that Bambu have an unveil on 20th Sept.
Tag lines seem to be
. Colorfull 3D Printing For Everyone https://twitter.com/BambulabGlobal/status/16986825...
. Quieter printers https://twitter.com/BambulabGlobal/status/16997695...
. Quick swap revolution https://twitter.com/BambulabGlobal/status/17023117...
That quick swap revolution would be nice if they have teamed up with E3D and done a REVO hot end, as I've got REVO nozzles sat doing nothing on my old Ender 3
Don't forget that Bambu have an unveil on 20th Sept.
Tag lines seem to be
. Colorfull 3D Printing For Everyone https://twitter.com/BambulabGlobal/status/16986825...
. Quieter printers https://twitter.com/BambulabGlobal/status/16997695...
. Quick swap revolution https://twitter.com/BambulabGlobal/status/17023117...
That quick swap revolution would be nice if they have teamed up with E3D and done a REVO hot end, as I've got REVO nozzles sat doing nothing on my old Ender 3
Edited by Russ35 on Thursday 14th September 16:50
Its here! The new A1. Looks great BUT and I think this is a pretty big BUT. You cannot locate the AMS anywhere other than next to the printer which means the footprint for such a small volume printer ends up massive. Love the idea and the implementation though and the tech looks just superb!
https://uk.store.bambulab.com/products/a1-mini?var...
https://youtu.be/F8sdrPgH9Fk?si=bHPBQ7d_6z-XTFNH
https://uk.store.bambulab.com/products/a1-mini?var...
https://youtu.be/F8sdrPgH9Fk?si=bHPBQ7d_6z-XTFNH
For those using a slicer package to insert the start Gcode for your prints (pretty much everyone!) - I use Cura, but Slicer is the same, they all are, here is the start Gcode to BLTouch auto bed level WHILST the bed and head are preheating. Such a simple upgrade to the speed of fresh print starts: I have NOTED the bits you need to add, the rest is usually in there already, or similar to. I just inserted the NOTED sections in the right places in Cura, settings, Printer, print settings, start Gcode. (I used NOTE as bold doesn't work when there are curly brackets in the text)
NOTE
M140 S{material_bed_temperature} ; start preheating the bed WITHOUT wait to what is set in Cura
M104 S{material_print_temperature} T0 ; start preheating hotend WITHOUT wait to what is set in Cura [/i]
/NOTE
M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration
M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate
M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration
M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ;Setup Jerk
M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate
M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate
NOTE
M280 P0 S160 ; BLTouch alarm release
G4 P100 ; delay for BLTouch
/NOTE
G28 ;Home
G29 ;ABL
NOTE
M190 S{material_bed_temperature} ; start heating the bed to what is set in Cura and WAIT
M109 S{material_print_temperature} T0 ; start heating hotend to what is set in Cura and WAIT
/NOTE
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position
G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line
G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little
G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 E-2 F1800 ;retract 2mm at 30mm/s
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 E1.8 F1800 ;retract 2mm at 30mm/s
NOTE
M140 S{material_bed_temperature} ; start preheating the bed WITHOUT wait to what is set in Cura
M104 S{material_print_temperature} T0 ; start preheating hotend WITHOUT wait to what is set in Cura [/i]
/NOTE
M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration
M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate
M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration
M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ;Setup Jerk
M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate
M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate
NOTE
M280 P0 S160 ; BLTouch alarm release
G4 P100 ; delay for BLTouch
/NOTE
G28 ;Home
G29 ;ABL
NOTE
M190 S{material_bed_temperature} ; start heating the bed to what is set in Cura and WAIT
M109 S{material_print_temperature} T0 ; start heating hotend to what is set in Cura and WAIT
/NOTE
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position
G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line
G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little
G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 E-2 F1800 ;retract 2mm at 30mm/s
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 E1.8 F1800 ;retract 2mm at 30mm/s
Edited by Griffith4ever on Tuesday 24th October 11:04
Personally I would put the G28 & G29 lines between the M190 and M109 lines,
That way you are doing the bed level on the bed after any thermal expansion that it has done, where as the way you have it, it may have not have reached final temperature while your doing the bed level, or depending on how many points you check it may be below temperature for the first half of the level and at temperature for the second half.
I've no idea how much thermal expansion occurs on a print bed but assume there is some.
I suppose you would have the same issue with the nozzle expanding which would affect readings on a printer that uses the nozzle to do the bed level, but if you have the G28 & G29 after both M190 and M109 you would then have oozing issues from the nozzle, which may then affect the level readings.
That way you are doing the bed level on the bed after any thermal expansion that it has done, where as the way you have it, it may have not have reached final temperature while your doing the bed level, or depending on how many points you check it may be below temperature for the first half of the level and at temperature for the second half.
I've no idea how much thermal expansion occurs on a print bed but assume there is some.
I suppose you would have the same issue with the nozzle expanding which would affect readings on a printer that uses the nozzle to do the bed level, but if you have the G28 & G29 after both M190 and M109 you would then have oozing issues from the nozzle, which may then affect the level readings.
Some suggestions for start and end codes here, for Cura and PrusiaSlicer....
https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki/Slicer-...
https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki/Slicer-...
Gassing Station | Computers, Gadgets & Stuff | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff