Bonnet hinge modification

Bonnet hinge modification

Author
Discussion

mikel003003

1,084 posts

167 months

Tuesday 20th November 2012
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Any idea of cost yet ?

Top Gear TVR

2,244 posts

155 months

Saturday 24th November 2012
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what is the latest on these hinges?

Oldred_V8S

3,715 posts

239 months

Sunday 25th November 2012
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Tom looks like you have opened the flood gates. Looks like you'd better fire up the mig welder smile

mikel003003

1,084 posts

167 months

Sunday 25th November 2012
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Failing that is there any of those stainless ones kicking about or at least picture?

JensW

19 posts

154 months

Sunday 25th November 2012
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I was just told that you are discussing my bonnet hinge modification. Unfortunately the Tiv is wrapped up for the winter period, so there is no way of giving you any details. I do have some photos, but they're not better than tvrgit's. I will add them anyway...



Accessibility is fantastic, and the whole bonnet can be removed within two minutes.



The general setup is very simple,
but as all Tivs are different, I was told that getting it fixed properly might be difficult.






A friend of mine designed it and fitted it a few times and it was always different, had to be adapted. Maybe he just exaggerated a bit...

If you can wait until May next year, I can give you more details, dimensions etc.

Cheers
Jens

tvrgit

8,472 posts

253 months

Sunday 25th November 2012
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JensW said:
The general setup is very simple,
but as all Tivs are different, I was told that getting it fixed properly might be difficult.

A friend of mine designed it and fitted it a few times and it was always different, had to be adapted. Maybe he just exaggerated a bit...
Well, as I said earlier in this thread, I can well imagine how hard it would be to come up with a "standard" fitting, because once it's bolted on, there's no adjustment. Making the individual bits is the easy bit. Fitting instructions are a lot more difficult!

Gerald-TVR

4,896 posts

198 months

Monday 26th November 2012
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If they are produced in batches then adjustment will have to be built in to give forwards/backwards/up/down/side to side as per originals.

Hope this helps



If anyone would like a pdf drop me a PM with your email address

greymrj

3,316 posts

205 months

Monday 26th November 2012
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Hi Norman, good to see your mine of information remains available. Typically yours is rather better drawn than most! I will E you for a copy if I may, the more info I have on file the better. I made up something very similar. The only other mod I made (remember mine is an S1) was to replace the chassis bonnet mount box sections (both vertical and horizontal) in a beefier section as both had started to bend. I took the opportunity to slot the top of the vertical box section so that I now remove the short bolt at either side, slacken the long bolt, and the whole lot slides out with the dimensions pretty well retained.
I think the engineering of the pivot system on the car shown is very clever but it does put a tremendous amount of twisting force on the box section, particularly in any breeze. Anybody who has seen the force on the standard bonnet stay when a breeze catches it will know what I mean! If you do decide to fit this clever pivot system then do make sure you beef up the box section first, it wasnt designed to take this when new and some are considerably weaker now. A bent box section is one thing, a damaged bonnet is quite another.

greymrj

3,316 posts

205 months

Monday 26th November 2012
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I fear I am in danger of being a killjoy here although I suspect tvrgit has some reservations as well. Look at Jens posting, see how strong the new bits are...see how strong the box section isn't? The horizontal box section is also of the same light gauge. I have looked at the engineering forces involved and I am reluctant to go down that route. I am however going to look at making my bonnet stays removable and replaceable with a pair of longer 'service' slave rods for use when I am doing a big job outside.* I know it still means the car has to be up on 3" ramps but that really isnt a problem. I then retain the 'original' lower bonnet position for roadside (and show!) use. Still gives good access (if I keep reasonably slim!)and northern winds wont blow the bonnet off!
  • another option might be one set of stays but with two alternative mountings at one end, but a quick look suggests that might not be as easy as it looks at first sight. Got me thinking though!

phillpot

17,129 posts

184 months

Monday 26th November 2012
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greymrj said:
I am however going to look at making my bonnet stays removable and replaceable with a pair of longer 'service' slave rods for use when I am doing a big job outside.
Or an adjustable stayscratchchin

greymrj

3,316 posts

205 months

Monday 26th November 2012
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What about that! Mike, I never saw that thread. Two minds etc! Always admired engineering simplicity and it does appear to do the job without undue loads. Is it working well in practice? If so are you going to do a 'norman' and publish details/drawings for me to tinker with on a long winters night?

phillpot

17,129 posts

184 months

Monday 26th November 2012
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greymrj said:
Is it working well in practice? If so are you going to do a 'norman' and publish details/drawings for me to tinker with on a long winters night?
Yes it works fine and no, I don't do drawings (not allowed sharp things like pencils in here) smile

Just have to remember to return to short position before tucking away into its new retainer.....




Edited by phillpot on Monday 26th November 22:48

Gerald-TVR

4,896 posts

198 months

Tuesday 27th November 2012
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This is how to get the best under bonnet access for working on the engine bay!!


Sandgrounder

563 posts

145 months

Tuesday 27th November 2012
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Hi Norman, I have seen that photo before, but it has reminded me that my bonnet will not open anywhere near that far.

As it rotates, the underside of the front contacts the chassis, and short of cutting away part of the underside of the bonnet, I am confused as to how your 'previous' car did this?

Can you (anyone) advise if this is 'normal' (as normal as you can get with a TVR!)?

Thanks,

Graham

zombeh

693 posts

188 months

Tuesday 27th November 2012
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The bonnet on my V8 will open that far if it's high enough off the ground (in fact the height it's usually at on stands for working on the bonnet opens right to the point the indicator lenses hit the ground frown ). I just take it off if I've got to do any serious work under there though. It's only two nuts, two hoses and two plugs.

glenrobbo

35,342 posts

151 months

Tuesday 27th November 2012
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Hi Graham,
Even with my S1 up on stands, the bonnet will not open much beyond 50 to 55
degrees. Like yours the lower part of the apron fouls the front chassis crossmember.
Perhaps this was changed on later models, either by altering this area of the bonnet, the position of the x- member, or the geometry of the hinges.

Does anyone out there know the answer?

ETA Just checked your profile & found yours is an S3.
The mystery deepens .......

Edited by glenrobbo on Tuesday 27th November 16:11

GTRene

16,648 posts

225 months

Tuesday 27th November 2012
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what type would be this bonnet hinge?





its from this vixen S2

http://www.v8church.co.uk/your_cars/tvr_vixen_s2_1...

Gerald-TVR

4,896 posts

198 months

Wednesday 28th November 2012
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I think that its just a question how much has been removed from the back of the lower part of the bonnet, i think the dimensions of the front of the chassis is more or less the same for all the car except S3 and on that the front cross member is no longer straight across to allow the fan to fit in front of the rad, picture of the back of the lower bit below


davidh2905

234 posts

150 months

Wednesday 28th November 2012
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+1

glenrobbo

35,342 posts

151 months

Wednesday 28th November 2012
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Ahah! Big differences between my bonnet & yours Norman.
Mine has only a half-inch long by 3 inch wide cutaway at each hinge position.
Between the cutaways, the bonnet lower edge has an original moulded right-angled lip all the way across, in line with the forward ends of the wheel arches.

I think it would lose a lot of stiffness if I cut it all away. scratchchin
I suppose if I did, I could bond the cut-off portion back on, further forward of the new edge.