Bonnet hinge modification

Bonnet hinge modification

Author
Discussion

Gerald-TVR

4,896 posts

198 months

Wednesday 28th November 2012
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glenrobbo said:
I think it would lose a lot of stiffness if I cut it all away.
Difficult to comment on a statement like that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!yikes

Seriously I had no problem either with the car shown ('twas Joseph) or Gerald who had a even larger cutaway!!

glenrobbo

35,350 posts

151 months

Wednesday 28th November 2012
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Gerald-TVR said:
Difficult to comment on a statement like that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!yikes
Is this the Lounge? I thought this was the S forum! biggrin

I don't suppose it will do any harm to lose a little bit of stiffness....
Thanks Norman.

mikel003003

1,084 posts

167 months

Wednesday 28th November 2012
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Are there any stainless hinges still avalible ?

Gerald-TVR

4,896 posts

198 months

Wednesday 28th November 2012
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mikel003003 said:
Are there any stainless hinges still avalible ?
I will ask my man if he will make up some more but he did say no last time.

mikel003003

1,084 posts

167 months

Wednesday 28th November 2012
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That would be good thanks, couldn't afford them first time round,

Top Gear TVR

2,244 posts

155 months

Wednesday 28th November 2012
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I am very keen on this and now have a load of box section, bolts, studding etc lying in my garage.

My plan is to create something that works with box section inserted into the x-member box section, with box section welded on the end of that inserted into x member, pointing towards the front, with a hinge on the bonnet end (bolt / stud - with minimum exposed threads - oh how i hate that part of the standard design)

I also plan a bonnet mounting plate with 4 holes; 2 largish (to allow adjustment to fit - big washer style) and 2 smaller to final-fix.

IF I get to play in the garage enough to do this I will draw up my 'what-works on mine' design, probably in Jan or Feb - just in time to get some prices for a batch before the summer.

Mine will likely be function first - though the return on the bottom of the bonnet has me wondering whether a cut or 'hinged flap' will be needed. Measuring will see?

Gerald-TVR

4,896 posts

198 months

Thursday 29th November 2012
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Now here's a thought!!!

I have spoken to the fabrication shop and it looks possible to get some more made up after christmas! So it will depend on the numbers interested.

BUT if someone have got a working design for the 'jens' type hinges by then those could be made. The quality of the work from these people is very good.

Costing old type would be very little changed but unknown on the new without a complete design.

Comments and expressions of interest welcome.

orange_dodo

Original Poster:

694 posts

190 months

Thursday 29th November 2012
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Hi everyone, sorry for my absence.

I appologise if you have been waiting on me as I decided to buy a house so my progress isn't what I had planned. In terms of the hinges I had plenty of ideas and I have a rough design but I haven't got to the point of making prototypes.

As far I was concerned the important point of the hinges were that they allowed the bonnet to be easily removed without having to adjust the bonnet. I wasn't intending on including the R-clip as I'm pretty sure no one is going to be removing their bonnet so often that they need to be able to do it in 10 seconds flat. I was looking at using 2-4small bolts that needed undoing. All the adjustment would be on the bonnet side and would be fixed after the hinge was first fitted.

Anyway sorry if people were hoping on me getting something sorted quickly, I failed miserably! I still intend on sorting something for myself but it not be for a month or 2. Anyway looks like Norman is sorting things so I will leave things to someone with experience.

BTW sorry! getmecoat

Gerald-TVR

4,896 posts

198 months

Thursday 29th November 2012
quotequote all
orange_dodo said:
Hi everyone, sorry for my absence.

I appologise if you have been waiting on me as I decided to buy a house so my progress isn't what I had planned. In terms of the hinges I had plenty of ideas and I have a rough design but I haven't got to the point of making prototypes.

As far I was concerned the important point of the hinges were that they allowed the bonnet to be easily removed without having to adjust the bonnet. I wasn't intending on including the R-clip as I'm pretty sure no one is going to be removing their bonnet so often that they need to be able to do it in 10 seconds flat. I was looking at using 2-4small bolts that needed undoing. All the adjustment would be on the bonnet side and would be fixed after the hinge was first fitted.

Anyway sorry if people were hoping on me getting something sorted quickly, I failed miserably! I still intend on sorting something for myself but it not be for a month or 2. Anyway looks like Norman is sorting things so I will leave things to someone with experience.

BTW sorry! getmecoat
Hi Tom

No don't go I can only help if some clever person does the design work, do you want to share your ideas with me?

Sandgrounder

563 posts

145 months

Sunday 2nd December 2012
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Hi Glen/Norman, thanks for the replies. Been away all week!!
So, it seems that my bonnet has more 'meat' underneath the front, but some modification to allow it to bypass the chassis doesn't sound like it will cause any major issues.
Next time I am under the car, I'll take a look, but that will be when the weather is considerably warmer.

Cheers

Graham

Top Gear TVR

2,244 posts

155 months

Monday 18th January 2016
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Here we go:


Ready for tomorrow

drak ula

455 posts

175 months

Monday 18th January 2016
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not the neatest welding i've ever seen 9at the chassis end where the bar meets the plate) but apart from that it is a lovely set up, i especially like the quick release element of it with the big R pins. but what else i notice is that it has a single K&N air filter directly on the throttle bodies with the air flow meters missing!!!! i am quite new to fuel injection, much more used to good old carbs, so does this mean i don't need the air flow meters? will the engine run but just not as well with out them or what??? advice please.

tvrgit said:
Here's a couple of photos from my web site (still the best, see?) which show the setup on Jens' car.

The standard hinge pivots at the chassis end. That means that, as the back of the bonnet goes up, the other end follows an arc centred on the chassis mounting, pushing the front downwards into the ground.

The first photo is similar to Mark's, and shows how the hinge pivots at the BONNET end, so the front of the bonnet follows a tighter arc, so goes down less, as the back of the bonnet goes up. Jens' hinge is also longer so that reduces the downward travel of the front as well, with this setup, by moving the centre of rotation even further forward.



The second photo shows the pivot bolt at the bonnet end. It also shows how the front bit of the hinge slides over the back bit, with a retaining pin. Take out two pins, disconnect one multi plug connector, remove bonnet. Very clever.



This last photo shows the whole setup including the two gas struts to hold the bonnet up.

drak ula

455 posts

175 months

Monday 18th January 2016
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sorry, jumped the gun, should have read further along the thread before asking DOH!
tvrgit said:
Aye, uses MAP & lambda sensors to determine fuelling etc.

Might be a different ECU, or different software, so not sure how easy it would be to convert (or if there are any benefits other than a determination to fit cats, that most S3C owners are removing).

Top Gear TVR

2,244 posts

155 months

Monday 18th January 2016
quotequote all
We'll see how it looks tomorrow - quick ish release should be a single bolt.



Edited by Top Gear TVR on Monday 18th January 19:57

v8s4me

7,244 posts

220 months

Monday 18th January 2016
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Clever. Have you had to cut much out of the lower part of the bonnet?

Top Gear TVR

2,244 posts

155 months

Monday 18th January 2016
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I'll find out tomorrow:-)

v8s4me

7,244 posts

220 months

Monday 18th January 2016
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Are you going to put a threaded steel plate inside the bit of box-section which slots into the original mounting point on the chassis so that you can bolt it all in place?

Top Gear TVR

2,244 posts

155 months

Monday 18th January 2016
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Probably best. It's only 3mm thick SHS and probably won't be good enough to tap a thread.