Crossing an ocean without sails (but with a budget)

Crossing an ocean without sails (but with a budget)

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NNK

Original Poster:

1,143 posts

200 months

Sunday 8th October 2023
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The mass exodus has started !
We chose yesterday for our trip down to the Ha'apai island group and got caught up in a sea full of sails all heading to Tongatapu, Minerva Reef, NZ.

We left them all to it and pulled into the beautiful lagoon at Ofolanga island after 10 hrs of motoring.
Whales everywhere, including our closest encounter about 3m from LS, but no fish.

S is flying to NZ at weekend so I will be sat at Big Mama's, Tongatapu for a week doing boat jobs, lucky me.
Back up to Vava'u when she returns which should be empty of cruisers and we will have the whole place to ourselves !

NNK

Original Poster:

1,143 posts

200 months

Thursday 12th October 2023
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So we are anchored off Pangaimotu island infront of Big Mamas Yacht Club.
Unfortunately not much left of her yacht club after the tsunami/volcano last year.
We dinghied ashore to visit yesterday and to try and organise a do for some of the Island Cruising Rally boats who are about to leave for NZ (Sonya has been appointed an ambassador for the rally)
Big Mama explained that she couldnt put anything on but we were able to use her bbqs and buy beer there, any wine or spirits we could bring ourselves.

Next we headed to the bright lights of Nuku'alofa itself, I wasnt expecting much as many have said its a bit of a dump. Very pleasantly surprised, customs were helpful and efficient (you have to check in and out of each island group here), the bottle store was well stocked and we found a mini mart with many NZ brands.
We did get soaked on the 2km approx dinghy ride back as the wind had built up but we werent in our Sunday best so who cares.

Currently waiting for a friend to pop over and have a look at our Powerdive hookah system as we loaned it to someone and now it doesnt work - grrrr.
It sounds like the voltage dropped so low that the brushes are damaged, hopefully they can just be filed back into shape but I have ordered new ones.

Have fun

NNK

Original Poster:

1,143 posts

200 months

Friday 13th October 2023
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I forgot to say that the fishing has improved.
Despite there being hundreds of whales on the way down from Vava'u we managed to get a couple of barracuda (released) and a nice yellowfin tuna.
Friends hooked a wahoo just before Nuku'alofa but it got off just before they could gaff it.
That cheered me up no end, not that they lost it just the fact that wahoo are around now.


NNK

Original Poster:

1,143 posts

200 months

Saturday 14th October 2023
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Aaaaaaaaand we have dinghy issues , again .

I'm sure I mentioned it ages ago in main story but our dinghy (AB 10UL) was bought new just before we left NZ. After about 9 months the Hypalon started coming away from the aluminium hull underneath on one side which started to let water in. AB had no agent in Fiji so they said tough luck.
I got it sorted by a fibreglass co in Denarau and its been good but now the same has happened on the other side/tube - grrrr.
This morning I went over to Pangaimotu, took outboard off, emptied dinghy and turned it over on the beach.
Gave everything a good clean and got to work with the 2 part Hypalon glue I have. I then cut a strip of Hypalon and glued that over the top as well - lets see how that works out.
Whilst it was upside down we gave the ali hull a good scrubbing/sanding with wire brush, brillo pad and sandpaper, prob more to relieve the boredom of waiting for the glue to go off.

NNK

Original Poster:

1,143 posts

200 months

Friday 20th October 2023
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Hurrah the wind has died down !
I havent left the boat for 6 days as the 2km trip to town by dinghy, across open water, would be pretty nasty.
OK, I had plenty of supplies onboard so havent needed to go anywhere but am running out of wine so a trip today is called for.

Interior boat jobs mostly completed, external lagging behind schedule due to wind/chop. I nearly fell off the dinghy arch one afternoon whilst polishing it as I had a dizzy spell (from the bouncing not the wine!).
I did manage to re stain the teak on the front deck but only to a protective standard, certainly not aesthetic.

Todays trip is going to involve picking up 20L of anti foul paint as its cheaper here than up in Vava'u where we will haul out in Dec/Jan.

NNK

Original Poster:

1,143 posts

200 months

Sunday 22nd October 2023
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Dinghy dilemmas Part 2

So I was cruising back from beach yesterday and outboard motor died. After a number of pulls it still wouldnt fire so I broke out the oars, luckily I wasnt far from LS.
Usual checks, nothing.
Drain/clean fuel filter
Swap fuel tanks, nothing
Change plugs, nothing

As this has taken nearly an hour (started 1.30pm) I can feel my back and neck beginning to burn so give up as I dont need dinghy again.

This morning I leapt from bed and lowered the dinghy into the water, climbed in and gave it a few pulls in the desperate hope it was just flooded yesterday - nope.
I then went inside and watched a few YT videos on how to take off and clean carb.

Im sure to some of you its easy and could be done blindfolded but Im not a natural at this stuff so had everything laid out on the table with laptop infront of me to watch videos again if necessary.

Long story short it all went back together and, after a bit of idle adjustment, ran like new so I went back on YT and posted positive comments on the vids I had used.

Portofino

4,295 posts

192 months

Sunday 22nd October 2023
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Thanks for the updates and good news on the outboard NNK!

What’s your timeline look like? Are you getting itchy feet to get back home as it’s been a while now?

NNK

Original Poster:

1,143 posts

200 months

Sunday 22nd October 2023
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Portofino said:
Thanks for the updates and good news on the outboard NNK!

What’s your timeline look like? Are you getting itchy feet to get back home as it’s been a while now?
Good timing for your question !
Just before S left for NZ we had a long talk about the future and there are some changes being made to our schedule, shes back today so will talk more about it over the week ahead.

French Poly has been crossed off, its just too hard for the 3 months we would be allowed to stay there (since Brexit). Originally we thought we could leave LS for a week and fly out renewing visas on arrival back but we have to go for 3m before being allowed a further 3m.

If we arent going to FP there isnt much point in going to Rarotonga but we might nip across to Niue.

Otherwise Vava'u for another few months, New Potatoes (or whatever its called) then Samoa.

Our aim is to be back in Fiji around March and we will then list LS for sale, its the perfect platform to see Fiji/Tonga and it can stay in Fiji for 5 years without having to import it (pay duty).

S is being pestered by last employer to take up big role in Aussie, mainly Brisbane based but first 6 months may be in Perth.
I still fancy a year swanning around SE Asia, she is keen but also doesnt want to give up the job offer.
I, on the other hand, after a career of doing the bare minimum am keen to drag this adventure out as long as possible.
When I do go back to work, which I will, it will be doing something basic. I fancy driving a forklift or bulk loading in an excavator/loader, maybe operating a rideon mower for the council .
I really should knuckle down and finish my autobiography, a roller coaster of fast cars, faster women, drink, drugs, cash and, of course, boats.

Anyway, you lot are the first to hear about all this, so keep it quiet

Have fun

Portofino

4,295 posts

192 months

Tuesday 24th October 2023
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You have a few decisions to make then, good luck!

lancslad58

550 posts

9 months

Tuesday 24th October 2023
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NNK said:
......I
When I do go back to work, which I will, it will be doing something basic. I fancy driving a forklift or bulk loading in an excavator/loader, maybe operating a rideon mower for the council .
I really should knuckle down and finish my autobiography, a roller coaster of fast cars, faster women, drink, drugs, cash and, of course, boats.

Anyway, you lot are the first to hear about all this, so keep it quiet

Have fun
Just get on with it !!!

You're writing style reminds me of Hunter S Thompson, especially Fear and Loathing In Las Vegas


Edited by lancslad58 on Tuesday 24th October 17:32

NNK

Original Poster:

1,143 posts

200 months

Tuesday 31st October 2023
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Gutted !
Just lost a big fish.
Left anchorage before sunrise and put lines in as it was rising
Not long after my big reel screamed and then went quiet.
I reset it and was going back to flybridge when the other sung out.
It took about 750m of line and took me 45 mins to get it close to LS, presumably a big tuna as it was straight down most of the time.
With S helping we got it to within about 10m of surface when the line snapped
My fault, too much pressure - grrrrrr

NNK

Original Poster:

1,143 posts

200 months

Friday 10th November 2023
quotequote all
Aaaaaaaaand the fishing is back on track !

Wahoo, bluefin trevally and barracuda all onboard and another trevally got off about a metre from surface.

Kept wahoo and gave others away, sashimi'd some which was beautiful and baked some more with butter,lemon,tomato for dinner.

Water temp over 27C now so should start to get some decent fish coming in. Im going to be really angry if I dont get a marlin here !

SunsetZed

2,253 posts

171 months

Friday 10th November 2023
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NNK said:
Aaaaaaaaand the fishing is back on track !

Wahoo, bluefin trevally and barracuda all onboard and another trevally got off about a metre from surface.

Kept wahoo and gave others away, sashimi'd some which was beautiful and baked some more with butter,lemon,tomato for dinner.

Water temp over 27C now so should start to get some decent fish coming in. Im going to be really angry if I dont get a marlin here !
The fishing updates are a highlight for me, share some pics!

NNK

Original Poster:

1,143 posts

200 months

Saturday 11th November 2023
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SunsetZed said:
The fishing updates are a highlight for me, share some pics!
Always happy to oblige !
Obv excuse my dumb grin in some of them, my wife loves to make me hold a pose for about 3 minutes whilst taking 50 pics !

Yesterdays Trevally


Yesterdays Wahoo

NNK

Original Poster:

1,143 posts

200 months

Saturday 11th November 2023
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Some others that I dont think have been posted before




Last pic was a double hookup, one either side at same time, took a bit of effort/luck to get them both on

SunsetZed

2,253 posts

171 months

Monday 13th November 2023
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Oof, very jealous that looks like some great fishing (and eating!) right there. Good luck with the marlin!

Thanks for sharing and keep living the dream!

NNK

Original Poster:

1,143 posts

200 months

Wednesday 22nd November 2023
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Going to our first Thanksgiving celebration tomorrow .
An American guy we met when we first arrived in Tonga has rented a house for a month while his wife visits and is hosting a crowd of us for the day.

They left their boat on the hard here during Covid, when Tonga opened its borders again (only last November IIRC) he flew out to check on her - pretty messy .
Despite paying the Boatyard a monthly fee the beautifully restored 70's 42' yacht had not been checked internally and had flooded causing huge damage.
He has spent most of this year here working on it in the hope of coming back next April and sailing her to Fiji to continue their journey.


NNK

Original Poster:

1,143 posts

200 months

Friday 24th November 2023
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At the last minute I was invited to go fishing yesterday with Andrew (owner of Kraken Bar & Restaurant, Vava'u) and a couple of his mates on his boat (Ashlee G Fishing Adventures) which I gratefully accepted as it also got me out of any prep work for the Thanksgiving do we would also be attending.

We set off at 7.30am to his normal hunting ground and followed birds around the area for the next four hours - nothing.
I was happy enough though as I was learning about the correct lure placement in the water, reel setup and theory on what to do if/when we got a hit.

ZZZZZZZZZ went one line
ZZZZZZZZZ another
ZZZZZZZZZ three out of five lines running, peeling off line like mad

Sean jumped into the game chair as he as first on the scene and mounted his rod, I started to wind in the unused lines.
Dave took over a rod and Andrew grabbed the last but, unfortunately, that fish got off.

Seans fish leapt from the water shaking its head, a big blue marlin !
Daves was staying down but still swimming fast away from the boat.

These guys all knew what they were doing but it was still chaos. The fish hadnt read the memo about keeping to their own side of the boat and soon rods were being fed under lines and being untangled.

Anyway, Daves fish showed itself and was a sailfish, lovely looking thing and guesstimated to be around 50kg. It was certainly a battle but looked a lot easier than the marlin. He got it to the back of the boat and we dragged it onboard to remove the lure and release it.
Andrew spent a few minutes holding it in the water as it didnt look capable of swimming away then suddenly with a flick of its tail it was off.

All of our attention was back on the marlin, it leapt from the water then dived down, it came towards us then turned and sped off. Sean is a pretty solid guy but this was a serious workout.
About 45 mins later (so an hour after hookup) it was onboard, the in water guesstimate of 80kg was judged to be wrong, this thing was looking closer to 120kg and was going to be the keeper of the day.
Andrew despatched it quickly and we wrapped it up with ice.

I took the helm now while the other guys setup the five lines again, just as Andrew took back the controls ZZZZZZZZZ went a line , 'your turn Kev' and I raced down the stairs to get to the chair.
The line was peeling off and I gently pushed up the drag to its safe limit, it didnt make any difference. I watched the mono disappear from the reel and the braid start to go out. Hmm this was going to be a battle if I was going to bring it in whatever it was.
I started cranking the reel and line was coming back in, the fish had turned, and then it leapt - a blue marlin !
I wont go into all the details but it was bloody hard work, I'm not as fit or solidly built as I could be and my arms were burning. It would not come up for what seemed like an eternity but, just as I was thinking of handing over the rod, there it was about 10m from the back of the boat.
My energy level soared again and I got it to the back where A and S were waiting. One grabbed the leader and the other the bill and, with a huge struggle, got it onboard.
The lure was pulled, some pics taken and I attempted to gently push it back in the water.
I was holding it by the bill (with gloves on) but as soon as it felt its tail in the water it thrashed like nothing I have ever known and I let go. I watched it slowly sink belly up and a sadness came over me, then it flipped over and shot off like a bullet and a big smile appeared on my face.
What a feeling !

Pics will follow soon


NNK

Original Poster:

1,143 posts

200 months

Friday 24th November 2023
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Sailfish


My blue


Big blue

McGee_22

6,721 posts

180 months

Friday 24th November 2023
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Fabulous adventure superbly told - thank you!