Knackered old Porsche with loads of natural light - Boxster!

That's a slick way of doing it. I like when you can integrate into the existing switch gear. Makes the whole thing seem more quality.

I've got a switch panel with an unused sport bottom on mine. I wanted to use to control my exhaust valves and change my throttle mapping. I know the canbus data for the switch but my car didn't have the sports chrono option. I've got PIWIS but and I can't enable it without a code from Porsche and they wouldn't let me just purchase the code. I should look into it again.

Delighted to be able to help the project in a small way.

Beautiful day today and absolutely rude not to put more miles on the car, so I glued a go-pro to the rear bumper to get some exhaust noise captured:



Full throttle at 1bar boost to 6500RPM at 35 seconds in

This is on the standard Boxster silencer which has been split in half and had a 3" system built inside it. I'm pretty pleased with how sporty it sounds considering that as the only goals here were as quite as the standard car when meandering about and looks totally stock from outside. Definitely achieved the latter:

Thank you! Really do appreciate the compliment!

Solution currently is a cut template for the standard engine cover based around clearing a none breather rocker cover and a bond in section - this is WIP but will go in the kit shortly, although I know at least one person is planning on binning the roof off and running some sort of taller cover with a window in it and a hard top. I'd really like to do a single piece carbon one as getting ten off blue block tooling is pretty cost effective but I'm not sure anyone else wants one, especially given cost compared to ten minutes with a hole saw and a 330 kit

Is there a 6 speed gearbox that would fit?
You could have a better spread then with nice close ratio's but also a good motorway cruising gear.

I might be missing something obvious that precludes this possibility, but will a 987S 6 speed box fit and work? No idea about ratios in relation to the options you're already looking at, but worth a look if so, perhaps?

There definitely is a 6 speed box that will fit, Escy has done just this with his 2.7T 987 and I believe is using the 987 6 speed box with a mod to shafts to suit the flanges.

The ratios for this box plot like this:



(Note I've guessed the tooth counts to get the ratios as I didn't have counts to hand)

So it's actually a bit shorter than the Boxster 5 speed 5th and a bit longer than the A4 5 speed 5th.... but with another cog in the middle.

In reality the 5 speed is just fine behind the 20V as it's got a boat load of torque once it's up on boost and due to the higher rev limit a set of cogs which are a bit shorter work well with it (like the A4 ones), it has circa another 1000RPM vs the M96 so even though the A4 ratios are shorter the max speed per gear is really similar.

What I'm really pondering here with regards A4 vs Boxster ratios on the 5 speed is do I gear it to suit the high revs the 20V offers or do I keep the slightly longer ratios which arguably are a bit long but likely not a problem due to another 100 ftlbs of torque vs the M96.

Or I could finish making it all work before worrying too much about ratios but I do want another box built up ready to go for when this one cries enough (which of course if you have a spare ready it never will!).

I hear what you say about the torque but I still think I would go with the six speeder.
You can play about with the final Drive ratio to get the ideal set up.

3 miles a minute is always nice..... but I do also have a 996 which was pretty much built for that sort of thing the Boxster/Booster is all about being a bit more raw and revvy with a Group B sountrack

I remain undecided though, well not totally it's staying 5 speed so that it remains kit parts (we'll revisit 6 speed or 981 PDK at some point in the future), but just to have some gearbox spares I've ordered a used box from an A4 1.8T, I'll need to change a few bolt on bits to work in place of the original but the basic box is the same:





I sourced this from Southern Spain as it is an amazing source of uncorroded and generally mint casings and castings due to the complete lack of salt, mostly bone dry conditions and the fact it never really gets much below 8 degrees C! Shipping isn't even that expensive if you aren't in a rush. The box above is 24 years old, try finding one like that in the UK

This gives me both sets of ratios, a mint casing and shafts and a few other bits. I've got to order an ATB next but we'll get dyno and dampers out the way first along with a bit more running!

I should have opportunity for some time on the dyno later this week so with that in mind it was time for a dyno bodge:



PWR are a couple of weeks off having the charge cooler heat exchanger finished and the flow that the modified air-con rad could manage was way below optimal so it was time for a good dyno bodge. A quick call to Think (who are awesome and generally a top bunch) had an old stock NLA oil cooler on the way which I promptly modified to be a charge cooler rad by gluing some push ons to the top of it and welding a frame up to carry it in the rad duct off the mounts on the standard rad. This is completely the wrong thing to be using as a water heat exchanger as it's designed for oil, which is much more viscous, much higher pressure and generally has a much higher temperature delta to atmosphere - basically this couldn't be more wrong....

However for the dyno, which is a controlled environment where you can manage if it takes three minutes to chill off between runs pretty effectivly it'll be just fine. As always you end up building a car for testing, or rather the test environment you have available to you and the timescale you're working to and if you've targetted the right data/things in that environment you can turn that into the actual car later. So in this case I just want to see if with the most amount of flow possible the chargecooler barrel can do the do at 400bhp, getting the heat out the chargecooler coolant can be dealt with later. I have positioned it as far back in the rad duct as space allows and it's sealed to the coolant rad so I've at least given it a fighting change of doing something useful

I'm also going to do yet another thermostat change as I've found one which is in the middle of the two temperatures I've tried to date, one which was too hot and one which was too cold so at this point I'm hoping we've three bears'd it succesfully and how have one that's just right.... or somewhere between 78 and 88 degrees C

Finally all the trays need to come off ready for dyno and I better clean it as it's got 800 miles of road grime, mud and dead flies on it at the moment!

I just need to decide now if I'm going to be sensible and take it on the trailer or show full confidence in my engineering and drive it down