Fisher Fury, impuse buy!
Discussion
well feels like its been ages! shes back and running. goes alreigh now with 115bhp .
ive lost the photos from collecting her. my buddy drove me upto Guy's on a rainy saturday weekend before last. and i fitted the diff assembly and new prop. topped up the diff oil and drove it home with no issues other than being defend. with the roof on its propper loud.
all the new bit togeather to check the mesument. it was to complcated to put a uj on the gearbox end. it will require having a complet part made as the way the spider is mounted to the box means theres no flat surface to attach to. the donut/spider assembly has a bearing in the center to locate it. and its drives fine.
took it for a spin in the sun on friday, bit naughty as i forgot the MOT had lapsed. its due in on friday so hopefully be good to get out in it.
outside my local, still makes me laugh how small it is.
eagle eyed will have noticed ive madeup some fury wheel centers and bonnet/boot logos.
not sure what todo with it now
think i need the weather to be better.
ive lost the photos from collecting her. my buddy drove me upto Guy's on a rainy saturday weekend before last. and i fitted the diff assembly and new prop. topped up the diff oil and drove it home with no issues other than being defend. with the roof on its propper loud.
all the new bit togeather to check the mesument. it was to complcated to put a uj on the gearbox end. it will require having a complet part made as the way the spider is mounted to the box means theres no flat surface to attach to. the donut/spider assembly has a bearing in the center to locate it. and its drives fine.
took it for a spin in the sun on friday, bit naughty as i forgot the MOT had lapsed. its due in on friday so hopefully be good to get out in it.
outside my local, still makes me laugh how small it is.
eagle eyed will have noticed ive madeup some fury wheel centers and bonnet/boot logos.
not sure what todo with it now
think i need the weather to be better. BrettMRC said:
Great that it's back and useable! 
I think you need to use it as much as is sensible, a few more miles and you can really decide what to do next as you get to know it more and more?
Yep I'm going to try and get out to the locks heath classic meet. And a few others. Also meon hut is opening as caffeine and machine in march so there will be things todo I'm sure. I think you need to use it as much as is sensible, a few more miles and you can really decide what to do next as you get to know it more and more?
Futureologist said:
Local? …the gate in middle park road?
Fury looks well
Yeah that's the one, I live in admirals wood. Just nipped in on my way home. Ever since covid I make a conscious effort to go to the gate , cricket club or bold forester for a pint at least. As it dawned on me we could quite easily loose them. Appreciate a few pints a month is pissing in the wind for them. But if everyone did it. All adds up. Fury looks well
To be fair Graham does such a good job with the gate it's always rammed.
Alright so passed an MOT with not advisories !
So I celebrated by taking it apart again
The exhaust has been rattling abit from cold. So I assumed it had moved slightly. Alost the passenger sill has started squeaking . As the sills are abit light on fixings I thought I'd put a few more in and sort the exhaust out.
However I found this
So when the trigger wheel came off. It did hit the car pretty hard. The Ali floor tab that supports the sill has taken a couple of big hits. This has pushed the sill up making it hit the exhaust tip. So at least my exhaust is solid!
Got it all straightened out tho.
While sizing up ti remove the cat ( if the air filter cost me 3bhp then the cat must cost me something. )
I noticed a massive crack in the manifold. 3/4 the way around.
The 2 holes you can see are ones I've drilled to stop the crack. The crack goes around the back .
very lucky it hadn't failed.
It's not my best work. But it's a solid weld.
Got the sill re installed. With 4 bolts in the bottom side. Used to only have one at the front. And one extra in the rear wheel arch where it was rubbing.
Theses weird fog light holes have what looks like BBQ grill in them that's all rusted so thought I'd tidy them up abit. Think they need another coat tho.
Hopefully it's dry tomorrow. And I can escape SWMBO's DIY list. Although I did put a solid morning in on that so should have some points to spend
So I celebrated by taking it apart again
The exhaust has been rattling abit from cold. So I assumed it had moved slightly. Alost the passenger sill has started squeaking . As the sills are abit light on fixings I thought I'd put a few more in and sort the exhaust out.
However I found this
So when the trigger wheel came off. It did hit the car pretty hard. The Ali floor tab that supports the sill has taken a couple of big hits. This has pushed the sill up making it hit the exhaust tip. So at least my exhaust is solid!
Got it all straightened out tho.
While sizing up ti remove the cat ( if the air filter cost me 3bhp then the cat must cost me something. )
I noticed a massive crack in the manifold. 3/4 the way around.
The 2 holes you can see are ones I've drilled to stop the crack. The crack goes around the back .
very lucky it hadn't failed. It's not my best work. But it's a solid weld.
Got the sill re installed. With 4 bolts in the bottom side. Used to only have one at the front. And one extra in the rear wheel arch where it was rubbing.
Theses weird fog light holes have what looks like BBQ grill in them that's all rusted so thought I'd tidy them up abit. Think they need another coat tho.
Hopefully it's dry tomorrow. And I can escape SWMBO's DIY list. Although I did put a solid morning in on that so should have some points to spend
Ran some errands for the Mrs so she's let me off the DIY.
Was going to take it out but it's still soaking maybe this afternoon. Now the sun is out.
The front suspension has been abit creaky. So thought I'd investigate the rocker arms, as there a known for it.
Turns out they definitely needed some love as looks like with minimal grease has dried out or they never had any in.
The rocker bolts were properly tight in the arms. Managed to drift them out and clean them up
Liberally slathered in grease. I was able to puch them back in by hand .
Did a few other bits and bobs plus cleaned up all the mess I made welding last night.
Just need the sun to dry the roads out
Was going to take it out but it's still soaking maybe this afternoon. Now the sun is out.
The front suspension has been abit creaky. So thought I'd investigate the rocker arms, as there a known for it.
Turns out they definitely needed some love as looks like with minimal grease has dried out or they never had any in.
The rocker bolts were properly tight in the arms. Managed to drift them out and clean them up
Liberally slathered in grease. I was able to puch them back in by hand .
Did a few other bits and bobs plus cleaned up all the mess I made welding last night.
Just need the sun to dry the roads out
alan-87 said:
This body is currently under my house in New Zealand. The plan was to get the black live axle car registered within a few months, then start building the blue one as an IRS. Instead, I've had 10 years of nonstop personal dramas so neither of them are done.
I finally got settled at the end of last year so got stuck into the chassis but found all kinds of weirdness going on with the chassis. Lots of twisted, bent bits. I decided just to make a whole new chassis and then I would know it's all straight and not rusted on the inside.
I always love to see a Fury project. Regarding the top end tapping, are you sure it's not the injectors? They can be very clacky sometimes.
Furyous said:
alan-87 said:
This body is currently under my house in New Zealand. The plan was to get the black live axle car registered within a few months, then start building the blue one as an IRS. Instead, I've had 10 years of nonstop personal dramas so neither of them are done.I finally got settled at the end of last year so got stuck into the chassis but found all kinds of weirdness going on with the chassis. Lots of twisted, bent bits. I decided just to make a whole new chassis and then I would know it's all straight and not rusted on the inside.
I always love to see a Fury project. Regarding the top end tapping, are you sure it's not the injectors? They can be very clacky sometimes.
its defiatly a valve train noise. i just cant get my head around how it can change. when stopping then sort its self out. im going to try some thinner gaskets on the end covers as this is how fiat set the end float of the cams. its got no worse than it was even after the dyno, ive sort of accepted it does it for now.
Another productive day on Saturday.
Care had an inlet leak the last time I drove it. So I ordered a thicker inlet Gasket with a metal core as some of the bits between the bolts and edges of the ports are really thin.
Because the new gasket has the holes for the coolant ports. These are redundant in my setup. I've plugged one at the No1 end and there is a indent in the casting in the middle that was just exposing the cut out in the gasket . So I filled this. To a flat surface. And used some gasket maker on this part of the gasket.
ABIT gypsy I know but. I can't find a suitable gasket. Because the standard delta one is 5mm thick. And because the ports are at 45° verticallly and now angled forwards. It gives a nasty step to the port. And makes them off-centre. Hence using paper ones. Fingers crossed this holds otherwise back to the drawing board.
While messing with the manifold I noticed, that trumpets were closer to the steering rack than I remember? . No idea how they didn't see this on the MOT.
Bloody ran out of gas so ended using some old gasless mig wire but got the job done. I will be revisiting these mounts with some much thicker plates.
Dremmeled out the cracks.
pretty happy with that definitely something to keep an eye on.
Also got the drivers sill bolted on properly. It had lost the one bolt in the bottom and a couple of the fittings had pulled out the fiberglass. Same as the passenger side it's now bolted to the rear body work . And has 4bolts into the floor. Along with the one along the top.
It's much much more solid now I think that might have been one of the bigger rattles.
And made a gasket for the thermostat housing that start to leak after the Dyno. It was fitted with silicone that had pretty much squished out so had no chance.
Did all this with the intent on going to locksheath classics but with the forecast I didn't bother. Very annoying as I've not had chance to drive it Yet
Care had an inlet leak the last time I drove it. So I ordered a thicker inlet Gasket with a metal core as some of the bits between the bolts and edges of the ports are really thin.
Because the new gasket has the holes for the coolant ports. These are redundant in my setup. I've plugged one at the No1 end and there is a indent in the casting in the middle that was just exposing the cut out in the gasket . So I filled this. To a flat surface. And used some gasket maker on this part of the gasket.
ABIT gypsy I know but. I can't find a suitable gasket. Because the standard delta one is 5mm thick. And because the ports are at 45° verticallly and now angled forwards. It gives a nasty step to the port. And makes them off-centre. Hence using paper ones. Fingers crossed this holds otherwise back to the drawing board.
While messing with the manifold I noticed, that trumpets were closer to the steering rack than I remember? . No idea how they didn't see this on the MOT.
Bloody ran out of gas so ended using some old gasless mig wire but got the job done. I will be revisiting these mounts with some much thicker plates.
Dremmeled out the cracks.
pretty happy with that definitely something to keep an eye on. Also got the drivers sill bolted on properly. It had lost the one bolt in the bottom and a couple of the fittings had pulled out the fiberglass. Same as the passenger side it's now bolted to the rear body work . And has 4bolts into the floor. Along with the one along the top.
It's much much more solid now I think that might have been one of the bigger rattles.
And made a gasket for the thermostat housing that start to leak after the Dyno. It was fitted with silicone that had pretty much squished out so had no chance.
Did all this with the intent on going to locksheath classics but with the forecast I didn't bother. Very annoying as I've not had chance to drive it Yet
Edited by Zephyr Speedshop on Monday 26th February 14:32
Took it's to the pub last night and it's running better than ever still spits nice flames even with the cat. (Yes we left the fueling on in the over run) I think I'm starting to get it. It's definitely quicker than a Celica 190 tsport.
Although my alternator cable came lose near home. I think I'm going to have to go through everything and loctite it as it's seems to love backing bolts and nuts off. Never had a car that's been like it.
Shes had a slight vibration since last got it back above 80mph and it's been bugging me as I'm obviously hyper sensitive to it being the prop, however if you hold the shifter or the box casing through the boot you can't feel it. It comes through the chassis. And seat.
Figured it was a wheel balance issue. But only one of the rears was out and only by 20g. Could be part of it. Decided to run it in gear. And noticed the nearside rear looked buckled. So swapped it with the spare. And it was the same. So ran it with the drum off and it's the half shaft.
I'm guessing the 120mph diff lock up could have caused it, as that's pretty brutal.
Should be a video
This could definitely be my problem. Hopefully I can get another one, easily. There seems to be various lengths of English axle so need to do some research. But I think it's a MK2 escort.
Also I've seen these
https://www.vickauto.com/parts/new-billet-cams-tra...
Why can't I just be happy with it as is
I will get the GoPro out and do some good videos of it. As it's sounds epic, now absolutely screams.
I also want to put some ARP bolts in the bottom end. I don't trust what's in there. As I've had it Apart and it had aftermarket wheels in when I picked up the Bearing. So for all I know the bolts have been used twice and I'm now. 1100rpm over the factory limiter. After what it's been through I don't want the little twink to die over something preventable.
Down side is there isn't a kit. But I should be able to just buy the correct studs/bolts individually.
Unless the delta intergrale ones fit ? There's a kit for that.
Although my alternator cable came lose near home. I think I'm going to have to go through everything and loctite it as it's seems to love backing bolts and nuts off. Never had a car that's been like it.
Shes had a slight vibration since last got it back above 80mph and it's been bugging me as I'm obviously hyper sensitive to it being the prop, however if you hold the shifter or the box casing through the boot you can't feel it. It comes through the chassis. And seat.
Figured it was a wheel balance issue. But only one of the rears was out and only by 20g. Could be part of it. Decided to run it in gear. And noticed the nearside rear looked buckled. So swapped it with the spare. And it was the same. So ran it with the drum off and it's the half shaft.
I'm guessing the 120mph diff lock up could have caused it, as that's pretty brutal.
Should be a video
This could definitely be my problem. Hopefully I can get another one, easily. There seems to be various lengths of English axle so need to do some research. But I think it's a MK2 escort.
Also I've seen these
https://www.vickauto.com/parts/new-billet-cams-tra...
Why can't I just be happy with it as is
I will get the GoPro out and do some good videos of it. As it's sounds epic, now absolutely screams.
I also want to put some ARP bolts in the bottom end. I don't trust what's in there. As I've had it Apart and it had aftermarket wheels in when I picked up the Bearing. So for all I know the bolts have been used twice and I'm now. 1100rpm over the factory limiter. After what it's been through I don't want the little twink to die over something preventable.
Down side is there isn't a kit. But I should be able to just buy the correct studs/bolts individually.
Unless the delta intergrale ones fit ? There's a kit for that.
Got a set of straight half shafts! And it made no odds
Which I was super confused about. So I when through everything with a fine tooth combe trying to work out why I would still have the vibration.
Video
I'm pretty impressed that I've managed to bend this. Without distorting the flange. And I should have spotted that and so should the gearbox shop.
Anyway I managed to skive off work on Friday and go to Horsham and pick up a replacement.
Runs perfectly now ! Which is a big weight off my mind. Still lots of stuff to sort out.
Bought a cheapy seat heater kit. Apparently this one is pretty decent. For £30 its worth a punt to be abit more comfortable on those evening pub runs
Next jobs are look at the body and getting the doors to fit properly and not rub on the rest of the body and rattle. They seem to be too big and need chunk shaving off to clear everything. Also want to fill and fair all the holes and marks on the body so I can wrap it. Ive decided to be boring and go with a simple design that complements the car.
Also need to go through the rear suspension I think the bushes.
Which I was super confused about. So I when through everything with a fine tooth combe trying to work out why I would still have the vibration.
Video
I'm pretty impressed that I've managed to bend this. Without distorting the flange. And I should have spotted that and so should the gearbox shop.
Anyway I managed to skive off work on Friday and go to Horsham and pick up a replacement.
Runs perfectly now ! Which is a big weight off my mind. Still lots of stuff to sort out.
Bought a cheapy seat heater kit. Apparently this one is pretty decent. For £30 its worth a punt to be abit more comfortable on those evening pub runs
Next jobs are look at the body and getting the doors to fit properly and not rub on the rest of the body and rattle. They seem to be too big and need chunk shaving off to clear everything. Also want to fill and fair all the holes and marks on the body so I can wrap it. Ive decided to be boring and go with a simple design that complements the car.
Also need to go through the rear suspension I think the bushes.
I've mentioned the doors driving me mad before I'm sure. They rattle and creak. The whole time you drive it. Not so bad with headphones but still.
Now things are starting to get back on track I'm looking at the details that are bugging me. One of those is general appearance. It's a 2/3 meter car at the moment. So keen to get it wrapped. And the doors are way way too tight if I add a couple of layers of wrap i Doubt they will shut. This made me realise just how much they are rubbing.
The fitment isn't helping but there way too tight and the way there made. I need to clreance them for the wrap.
Sorry was getting dark
It's an absolute revelation to drive it now. There not perfect few knocks on big bumps but the creaking and continuous noise is delt with. I need to spend some more time on it before I do the wrap. As there's a few high spots and I need some more clearance in place especially when closing so they don't hit the shuts and do damage.
Pulled the starter tonight as its Abit sticker from cold. So cleaned up the actuator and greased it. Fingers crossed rockshox speed cream is upto the job as Ive run out of shop grease.
Next biggy is the 5 link all the bushes need doing. Mark fisher is very active on Instagram and Facebook so managed to find out the exact bush used originally.
https://store.avmr.com/products/bp636-2-peened-sin...
This is what I'm working with tho. There's really not much room for movement. I appreciate the 5 link should be pretty stable but just body roll is likely enough to have the arms contacting the frame jaws.
Avmr do a version of that bush with a 38mm instead of 35mm distance tube which I think I could probably squeeze into the frame jaws. To give abit more space for moment. Only snag it's not peened over so I've asked if they can do that for me.
Other option is super flex make these for tvrs but I think having flanges like that will be too hard to force into the chassis. And have still work properly. .
https://www.superflex.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=SF...
Other option is I bite the bullet and re make every thing with rose joints. I'd like adjustable arms anyway as I can then adjust the rear axle and also adjust the pinion angle.
What do you guys think. NVH isn't really a deal breaker on this one
Now things are starting to get back on track I'm looking at the details that are bugging me. One of those is general appearance. It's a 2/3 meter car at the moment. So keen to get it wrapped. And the doors are way way too tight if I add a couple of layers of wrap i Doubt they will shut. This made me realise just how much they are rubbing.
The fitment isn't helping but there way too tight and the way there made. I need to clreance them for the wrap.
Sorry was getting dark
It's an absolute revelation to drive it now. There not perfect few knocks on big bumps but the creaking and continuous noise is delt with. I need to spend some more time on it before I do the wrap. As there's a few high spots and I need some more clearance in place especially when closing so they don't hit the shuts and do damage.
Pulled the starter tonight as its Abit sticker from cold. So cleaned up the actuator and greased it. Fingers crossed rockshox speed cream is upto the job as Ive run out of shop grease.
Next biggy is the 5 link all the bushes need doing. Mark fisher is very active on Instagram and Facebook so managed to find out the exact bush used originally.
https://store.avmr.com/products/bp636-2-peened-sin...
This is what I'm working with tho. There's really not much room for movement. I appreciate the 5 link should be pretty stable but just body roll is likely enough to have the arms contacting the frame jaws.
Avmr do a version of that bush with a 38mm instead of 35mm distance tube which I think I could probably squeeze into the frame jaws. To give abit more space for moment. Only snag it's not peened over so I've asked if they can do that for me.
Other option is super flex make these for tvrs but I think having flanges like that will be too hard to force into the chassis. And have still work properly. .
https://www.superflex.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=SF...
Other option is I bite the bullet and re make every thing with rose joints. I'd like adjustable arms anyway as I can then adjust the rear axle and also adjust the pinion angle.
What do you guys think. NVH isn't really a deal breaker on this one
There should be a few places, (even superflex) that can make you up a set of bushes to order - that might be an option? Or maybe Octaneologists? https://octaneologists.com/collections/suspension-...
NVH isn't the end of the world, but it has to be tolerable when you are at 2/10.
NVH isn't the end of the world, but it has to be tolerable when you are at 2/10.
BrettMRC said:
There should be a few places, (even superflex) that can make you up a set of bushes to order - that might be an option? Or maybe Octaneologists? https://octaneologists.com/collections/suspension-...
NVH isn't the end of the world, but it has to be tolerable when you are at 2/10.
Thanks. There's just not enough room in the jaws to have the flanges required they would only be 1mm thick. NVH isn't the end of the world, but it has to be tolerable when you are at 2/10.
It's a no brainer for me, McGill have quoted me £202. For a full 5 link rose joint kit with tubes. the bushes are £110, On there own.
I have enough gas, wire, beer and stupidity. To stick them together
worst case my buddy will help . Should be quite fun
Rose joints will rattle your teeth out.
Having driven a couple of race cars on the road I can confirm - you have no idea how smooth racetracks are until you take a rose jointed race car on a British road - my vision was blurred the whole time with the vibration and the car felt like it was shaking itself to pieces over every bump.
Having driven a couple of race cars on the road I can confirm - you have no idea how smooth racetracks are until you take a rose jointed race car on a British road - my vision was blurred the whole time with the vibration and the car felt like it was shaking itself to pieces over every bump.
EmBe said:
Rose joints will rattle your teeth out.
Having driven a couple of race cars on the road I can confirm - you have no idea how smooth racetracks are until you take a rose jointed race car on a British road - my vision was blurred the whole time with the vibration and the car felt like it was shaking itself to pieces over every bump.
You've not driven a fisher fury then Having driven a couple of race cars on the road I can confirm - you have no idea how smooth racetracks are until you take a rose jointed race car on a British road - my vision was blurred the whole time with the vibration and the car felt like it was shaking itself to pieces over every bump.
I've been speaking to Mark fisher. Heres and interesting point I'd not considered.
' the very clever design idea behind using metalastic bushes is that the limited movement in the bushes effectively makes the whole rear axle a huge anti roll bar. On cornering as one side goes up into bump and the other in droop there will be a resistance / twisting action in the bushes. Using a rosejointed system is fine just like a works Escort MK 2 but the subtle effect of the bush set up is lost and the ride is much harsher.'
So I'll order the bushes tomorrow.
What a sound (video if you click on it)
Good weekend with the fury. Starting to trust it a it more hit the soft limiter today which is a first .
I've also picked up a 2.0 lanca beta engine for £50. I'm pretty sure I can put my pistons and head on it and give me a better compression ratio. It won't spin a fast but should give a good chunk more power. This is going on the back burner as I'll probably fit it next winter but I'd like to get the block all prepped and painted ready. Maybe even go for high comp pistons.
As it uses an escort rack and control arms. I got a set of poly bushes for them. I fitted the rack ones. Can't say it made much odds but the old ones were perished. And the control arms look pretty knackered too.
I'll get the rear bushes ordered tomorrow too as it's still properly wayward at speed
I also made the cat removal pipe. Not really made it much louder which is good. Need to take it out in the dark again as it was spitting flames with the cat. There be abit bigger now I think
Good weekend with the fury. Starting to trust it a it more hit the soft limiter today which is a first
. I've also picked up a 2.0 lanca beta engine for £50. I'm pretty sure I can put my pistons and head on it and give me a better compression ratio. It won't spin a fast but should give a good chunk more power. This is going on the back burner as I'll probably fit it next winter but I'd like to get the block all prepped and painted ready. Maybe even go for high comp pistons.
As it uses an escort rack and control arms. I got a set of poly bushes for them. I fitted the rack ones. Can't say it made much odds but the old ones were perished. And the control arms look pretty knackered too.
I'll get the rear bushes ordered tomorrow too as it's still properly wayward at speed
I also made the cat removal pipe. Not really made it much louder which is good. Need to take it out in the dark again as it was spitting flames with the cat. There be abit bigger now I think
Edited by Zephyr Speedshop on Sunday 17th March 18:02
Edited by Zephyr Speedshop on Sunday 17th March 18:03
Edited by Zephyr Speedshop on Monday 18th March 11:41
It sounds lovely in that clip. 
Congratulations on getting the 2 litre engine too. As you say it won't rev as high because they made it bigger with a longer stroke - I don't think there was enough metal to increase the bore above 84mm! I had a Fiat 132 with the 1,800 engine years ago and it loved some revs.
Congratulations on getting the 2 litre engine too. As you say it won't rev as high because they made it bigger with a longer stroke - I don't think there was enough metal to increase the bore above 84mm! I had a Fiat 132 with the 1,800 engine years ago and it loved some revs.
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