Fisher Fury, impuse buy!

Just read the whole thread, great read and looks like fun. I've always liked the Fury and have almost pulled the trigger on a couple - only to be talked out of it by the other half.

I'm still enjoying the Elise but one day I'd love to rebuild a fire spitting Fury!

Ok then guys I need some advice.

Apparently the racing furys have 185/60 up front and 205/60 rear. Either 13 or 14" work apparently.

However 205/60/14 is really limited on choice. I've narrowed it down to the A008s as I can get these in 185 and 205 however in the real world I doubt it will make that much odds for me. Even on track as I'm not chasing out right lap time.

This means I can default to a know tyre the AD08rs. Theres £1 in it. Or I could get the a008s in 185 all round and save some pennies.

I fancy trying the a008s and I feel they suit the 'classic' vibe I have going. And it sounds like there quite high performance but I can't find any meaning full reviews.

I've used the A008 on a classic mini.. I liked them.
Not a super duper high performance tyre but a nice road biased option.
Admittedly a different application but for a lightweight, relatively low powered road car they'd be a safe bet...

BMW K100, K1200RS are all shaft drive and very compact to fit under and load bed

she's had a hard life, and an unknow history before me its probably as old as the hills.

but yeah it went with a decent bang.

I navigate a FIAT 1500 with the 1850 Lampredi twincam in classic forest rallies.

It's running what I believe is basically a copy of a factory rally cam from that era. Not too peaky, and redline at 7,500 or so as I recall.

If you're interested I can see if I can get the specs from the owner.

Here's an earlier version - it's now running downdraft Webers. The exhaust could really do with longer primaries, but there's a steering box to clear.

Good chunk of progress this week.

Ive mostly fixed the tapping noise. It's 90% gone and sounds better in general now, The drain restriction worked well. It only makes abit of a noise know when properly hot so I think the oil must be getting really hot as it's still the 20/50 Motorsport oil. It not as pronounced. Might also be that it's still draining too fast. But as it seems to be more of a general noise at idle now I think its more Todo with the temps.









Ended up using abit of phosphor bronze propshaft from my parents old yacht , Its left over from make my wife a pen for out anniversary many moons ago. I did order some Ali but the first order was never delivered. And the second one still hasn't arrived. As any of you that have followed my other builds or this one I'm not a patient man, I have a schedule to keep too

Machined to 0.5mm oversize. The holes weren't round so there abit of fudging in that. I also matched 2 grooves into each bung and punched them into the head with a mix of chemical metal. Then centre punched the walls around them.

Was pretty nervous that it would be too small. But after a decent drive today it's fine. The level is about the same as the exhaust side now.



I did some logging with the ECU last weekend. As I've been having an intermittent backfire through the itb's. And I've narrowed it down to for some reason when hot the tps angle increases, the idle is steady until it clicks into the first row of timing curve. Still not sure what to do about this. But an obvious choice on seeing 40° inlet temps even cruising on the motorway, was to try and get some cold air to the itb's. Id fit the piper cross airbox tomorrow I'd it wasn't for the steering column.






I need to log it again and see how much difference that's made.



I'm thinking a NACA duct here is a good shout as it's just Infront of the filter. And should push more cold air in. Other option is to make a custom airbox that accommodates the steering column or move the itb's nearer the engine or change the angle.



Ignore the tape on the top that's my brain off on one it's way too far back. However I was originally thinking a side vent would look nicer and neater. but I don't think it will work as it's too far back it will just blow cold air at the bulkhead. And the more I think about it it would be better to have vents/gills in the side to try and exit the hot air and then have cold air from the front or above.

Would definitely take some ideas on this! It's pretty well ventilated down under the car and out into the sills although there dead ends. However above the sill height that whole area is probably pretty stagnant. So getting it to leave promptly is going to be a massive help to cooling. But I really don't want to be cutting gaping holes in the car if it can be avoided the whole 60s racer vibe is flicking my switch.



Eagle eyed will have already spotted the A008s first impressions today they're really well suited. There not mad stiff track tyres they're definitely a road tyre which is nice and suits where I think I'm heading with this. Sort of ultimate pub run, Sunday morning blat car, for the summer. On a clear B road there's nothing quite like it it's so small you can place it like a mini. And with that screaming 8v that I can absolutely rinse for all 3 bhp it's a riot!



Crap pictures sorry Id cracked the beers this arvo. Decided to setup the ECU fan control. As the thermo switch in the rad whilst it works. Clicks the fan of very quickly as it's right there in the rad. The ECU sees temp from the thermostat housing. So it will keep the fan running until the engine sees cooler temps.



It was rely easy too do. the thermo switch was in the earth side so I soldiered that to the chassis earth bypassing the switch. Rendering the fan permanently on. Then traced the live to behind the dash and buzz bar. Spliced in a relay with the ECU switched earth. It wasn't pretty but functional. I think a complete re wire of the car is coming in the winter. As it's a total mess. I quite like the look of these solid state motorbike PDM's the pricer ones with aux functions will run the wipers other bits while all the lights and running stuff is dealt with without relays or a fuse board.

I'm going to pop to Lockheath meet tomorrow for an hour or so if anyone is about come say hello. (supposed to be cooking mid afternoon lunch)

Feel like a big step forward to this week . Feels great on the road too now. very tempted to order the cams! I need them right

Just found this thread, need to catch up over my lunch break. Lovely cars.

Some of this may or may not apply, I'm sorry to admit I've not been back through your thread to check but hopefully one or more is useful. Creep in the TPS is exceptionally problematic at low throttle opening when it's your only load sensing and can have a load of different reasons:

- Creep in the TPS when hot can be a combination of expansion of the port throttle system itself where indifferent materials expand at different rates or if using DCOE style throttle bodies each body moving relative to the other which tweeks the centre linkage. There isn't a lot you can do about this besides insulating gaskets below the bodies and some sort of compliant mounting where possible (see rubber / composite lowers on bike throttles). You can also mount the TPS off AV mounts which naturally account for expansion in the mating surface vs the TPS and insulate the TPS a little by air gapping it from the structure of the throttle bodies.

- It can also be a result of the TPS sensor itself, low cost wiper based sensors can show quite considerable creep when heated. None contacting hall effect sensors are generally a little better behaved, even the plastic P&G ones are a big improvement on wiper based ones and the Bosch RPS-F sensors are pretty much bombproof and super consistent even when very warm (0.008 angular degree/C past 30 degrees C)

- If you're using one of the more common aftermarket ECUs then it's likely the breakpoints in the map around the idle position are extremely tight. They probably don't need to be this tight as any intentional throttle movement likely clocks past the first row/column instantly. In this case you can flatten the map out to idle settings around this to avoid it flip flopping between load sites. Technically it's masking the problem but the different in any airmass will by very small and you don't have emissions to meet



Edited to add: Nice Myford!

thanks PPBB, thats a nice detailed explanation,

the TPS is the FAJS one that suites the ITB's there the cheapy FAJS ones too. im reasonable confident its todo with them. as its sorts itself out quite quickley if theres some airspeed through them.

its all compounded but the fact there 45mm so quite big for the engine, when cruising im using barely any throttle.

i seem to have pretty much resolved it it only did it once over the weekend (went out 3 times) ant that was after giving it and absolute rinsing and then crusing for abit. so hot engine with minimal flow through the itbs. ill have a look and see if the bosch one will fit.

another factor was the tps was calibrated at a value of 7 which is really close to 0 volts, this was maxed out on its adjustment buy guy when tunning. i modified it and go it up to a value of 15, which its closer to the 20 the guy wanted. which i think make things much more stable. i cant drill it out any more as it will go through the casing now.


and thanks its a bloody handy thing to have knocking about! it was my great grand fathers, he bought it some time after the war, and was an avid tinkerer much like myself.

edit, a thermal gasket is a good shout i had one on the fiesta made of tuffnel, but ive not seen anything of the shelf for the TC manifold. like you said i could us the rubber dcoe gaskets though.