Boxy, but good. 1989 Volvo 740

Boxy, but good. 1989 Volvo 740

Author
Discussion

carlo996

5,783 posts

22 months

Sunday 4th February
quotequote all
Great thread.

thebraketester

14,261 posts

139 months

Sunday 4th February
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I seem to remember the 740 having strange (maybe not so strange) vacuum operated cruise control system. Does yours have it?

Spinakerr

1,192 posts

146 months

Sunday 4th February
quotequote all
Those plugs look to be in good order so burning correctly, but could it be a loose HT lead or split somewherecausing a mini-arc?

chris1roll

Original Poster:

1,699 posts

245 months

Sunday 4th February
quotequote all
thebraketester said:
I seem to remember the 740 having strange (maybe not so strange) vacuum operated cruise control system. Does yours have it?
No cruise control here. it's only a lowly GL, and I think the cruise was a very rare option anyway. I've not actually ever seen it.
That said it does have some options, maybe as it was a demonstrator - the amplified 4 channel stereo, a cassette holder (now removed for a bit more stashing space in the armrest) and a rear sunblind, which I think is quite rare.
Back in August there was a spares car for sale that had the rear screen louvres and wind deflectors, as well as the red interior I want. Should have bought it but couldn't really justify it at the time even though it went for sub 1k frown


chris1roll

Original Poster:

1,699 posts

245 months

Sunday 4th February
quotequote all
Spinakerr said:
Those plugs look to be in good order so burning correctly, but could it be a loose HT lead or split somewherecausing a mini-arc?
The leads aren't that old (were replaced by the previous owner) but to be fair have no branding on them.
You might notice in the pic above I have them bungeed up - so I didn't get near them when running while feeding the manifold. When I was a teenager I saw my dad get a belt off a lead on his 240 and he didn't rate it high on the list of things he'd like to do again.

It is in the plan to put a new cap, rotor arm and set of decent leads on it soon, as the cap terminals are quite nicely spark-eroded.

It doesn't sound like an electrical click to me but good shout, perhaps I'll bring that forwards.

chris1roll

Original Poster:

1,699 posts

245 months

Sunday 11th February
quotequote all
Finally got Mrs1roll in the car to have a listen, since my hearing is pretty useless really.
She said "Sounds more like the fan with a leaf stuck in to to me, rather than a metallic noise...Airy..". Somewhat reassuring.

Did about an hour and a quarters drive with it yesterday, noise still there but nothing like what it was when it first happened. Turned onto a nice long clear straight and let it run up close to the redline and it pulls along just fine.

In the meantime a new toy turned up:



More tools are always good, especially when they have flashing lights on them hehe

Although when I removed the distributor, I made sure I put it back in exactly the same place, I'd been relying on whoever else had it off in the past doing the same. Since it was up to operating temperature after our little run, I decided to have a play.

Operator error at first had me thinking it was faulty when the inductive tacho part said it was doing 2,410rpm at idle. I then noticed there is an arrow on the pickup that has to point towards the plug. Interesting that this makes a difference.
Once it was hooked up correctly, I wound the hot idle down to 900rpm (you may remember I have it set to around 1100 in P so its comfortable when in D), removed the vacuum line to the ECU and pointed at the crank pulley.
It's as close to 12deg BTDC as it can be given the accuracy of the markings on the timing cover, which is good news. Advance seems to function too.
So thats that off the list of things to do/check for now.

While I was doing this, I spotted this little electical gizmo that I hadn't really acknowledged up till now, and I don't recall seeing on my previous cars:


Now to me, that looks like a solenoid valve attached to the idle speed air circuit. I suspect for idle speed compensation when engaging drive. If that is what it is, it clearly doesn't work but it would be very good to fix.

Starting point I guess would be to undo the allen bolts and remove the whole assembly and drench in carb cleaner.

Anyone know if there is either a gasket, or an 'o ring' behind it?


I had another play with the endoscope too. This is the underneath of No3 manifold-head joint.
Its hard to get in focus, but I reckon that is soot?



I'm not touching it until the XC is through its MOT just in case it all goes wrong...
I've got a set of Elring gaskets, I've ordered some new copper flashed nuts, and also a full set of Volvo studs (actually ordered them from the Volvo penta website as they came up cheapest that way)
I'l replace the nuts as a matter of course, but if the studs are ok once the manifold is off and clean up alright I won't risk snapping one in the head for the sake of it and the new ones can go in the spares box. Fingers crossed.

I really hope that is it.

Before then, I've got a 50 motorway miles to do in the week. I'll take it steady and she'll chug on!

chris1roll

Original Poster:

1,699 posts

245 months

Monday 19th February
quotequote all
New Boots and Panties!!

I'd been putting this off on the off chance that a set of unkerbed 15" alloys might have come available, but after spending some time on the M5 in the pouring rain last week, I decided delaying any more was stupid.
I was acutely aware of the state of these two which although legal, were certainly past their best. My joking suggestion that the cracks add to the tread depth didn't hold true:


Erm....:

They've certainly done their time!

And the other two, some 2020 dated Avons, had worrying looking cracking on the inner sidewalls.


Its been quite a while since I've had to buy my own tyres. Previously I'd always gone for Michelin Pilots, but they don't even make the newest ones below 17" now!
In the end I plumped for a full set of Michelin Primacy 4's. Following a post on here where I learned that Asda sell tyres, they were considerably cheaper than anywhere else at £324 for all 4 fitted.

A workshop very local to us working out of some former agricultural buildings that we have used a couple of times before were on the fitters list so I had them do that this afternoon.


Things should be a lot more composed in the rain now!

guitarcarfanatic

1,614 posts

136 months

Monday 19th February
quotequote all
Very good, just done the same on the XC70 - the fronts were only 15k miles in and needed changing. The rears were dated at 2016 and had 3mm tread...but did the set!

Did you figure out that idle speed compensator thing in the end?

chris1roll

Original Poster:

1,699 posts

245 months

Monday 19th February
quotequote all
If I'm honest I've not even looked at it yet.
All I can think of is that is is either that, or an anti-run-on valve to shut the air right off when you turn off the ignition.
Really, I need to get the old VADIS discs (that I hope are still up in the loft) installed on a cheap XP laptop, as that is essentially all of the 'green books'. VIDA which is totally filling this machine only has parts listings for the 700's.

Before I mess around with that I've got a pile building up in my office of other parts to fit, If I can get a few days where I don't think the weather is going to screw me. Sitting in the puddle forming in the tray I was using to keep myself off the wet ground while changing the C70's rear springs last March wasn't a particular high point.

guitarcarfanatic

1,614 posts

136 months

Monday 19th February
quotequote all
It appears here...

https://vp-autoparts.com/en/artiklar/volvo/240-260...

But on my Vadis, it's not broken down...






chris1roll

Original Poster:

1,699 posts

245 months

Sunday 10th March
quotequote all
We made it to Rustival!!


(this old man with thinning greying hair persuaded my daughter to take a selfie with him lol (after asking her how to do it rofl ))

Rustival was a new car show organised by youtubers 'Furious Driving' 'I drive a classic' and 'hubnut' (the last of which I hadn't come across before, but I've been watching furious driving for a few years) and hosted at the British Motor Museum at Gaydon.

When I saw it advertised again in early Feb, I thought it looked like it could be quite fun, but was uhmming and ahhing about it as the car had just started making that clacking noise.
Emily persuaded me in an ironic 'will you take me to mount splashmore?' kind of way -
'Dad, I want to go the the rustival, I want to got the the rustival...' In the end I said sod it, it'll be fine and booked the tickets. Great value at £17 for the two of us including entry to the British Motor Museum.

It was very well organised, our group were told to arrive 'from 10am' we got there at 10:08 having left at 7:30, and there was no queuing at all, some very experienced marshalls directed us and we were parked up in a matter of minutes. My brother also came all the way from Fishguard in West Wales, 4-1/2 hours, so he joined us at about 1pm in his S80 (that used to be mine)

It was an anything goes show, pre war to modern. I'd say there was 15-20% modern (to me, anything from 2001 on) out of the around 1000 cars there, so easily 800 what I would call 'retro' or classics there. We started at the back, and worked our way along each row stopping at anything that caught our eye. For me, I was attracted by a lot of what me and my mates had as teenagers - Mk2 Cavalier, Peugeot 205 gti, Citroen BX's, Volvo 480 (all volvos of course!) and I also have a serious wish to own some pre-80's american metal - there was a gorgeous Plymouth Fury there driven by a very young couple (20's I guess, fair play!) that I took a load of pictures of.
It took us until from when we arrived until about 2pm ish to get round everything in the car park before we even touched the museum. There really was something for everyone and plenty for us!

The car ran faultlessly, and recently it seems to have fixed itself! No sign of the clacking exhaust manifold so I'm minded to leave those studs well alone for a bit longer.
And my word, was it better on the motorway on the new tyres! I don't think the old ones were actually round...
Up the M5 to 11a, then across the Cotswolds to get there, then after the show we visited my sister who lives about half an hour away (on some utterly awful condition roads, I ended up straddling the white lines when it was clear and slowing to a crawl when not in order to avoid the worst of the ruts and potholes) for a pub tea before leaving there about 9pm and getting home at 11:25, with pretty much bang on 250 miles done.
A long day but well worth it, and Emily says she really enjoyed it, which is great as I was worried she might have got bored being a car nerd with me.

Got talking to a nice guy from a club called 'Nordik Rides', asked us to go to a meet up in Derbeyshire at the end of April. Seriously considering it, I might well get persuaded smile

Obligatory Volvo Content. There were a few 740 estates, but aside from 'furious driving's' E reg, mine was the only 740 saloon there.
I think I've lost a few volvo pics between my phone and here, but enough to give you a taste.

Nordik Rides convoy:


480 with no rust on the rear arches next to a Chevrolet Caprice:






I covet this blue 144!





I think this is only the second Volvo 66 I've seen in real life:



Had a lazy morning today and watched a few walkarounds from various people on youtube. One guy said he ddin't think there was much there to look at, but I guess he came to the wrong kind of show for him?
It was exactly what we expected and thoroughly recommended from us, anywhow.

After a trip to see Mum this afternoon I gave the car a quick swoosh over to remove 250 miles of salt.


Edited by chris1roll on Sunday 10th March 19:57


Edited by chris1roll on Sunday 10th March 20:03

chris1roll

Original Poster:

1,699 posts

245 months

Friday 15th March
quotequote all
Musik

I had been using a bluetooth cassette adapter to connect to my phone, but it wasn't the best solution. I kept forgetting to charge it, and the tape deck is a little bit flaky - I have to eject and re-insert the tape a few times until it travels in the correct direction, and every so often would lose one channel and I'd have to stick my fingers in the slot to wiggle the cassette about to bring it back.
On our road trip Emily and I didn't get a single 'Hey man' on the first verse of suffragette city. This could not stand!

Since I want to keep the original radio as long as possible (and the blaupunkt ones that look in keeping are rather expensive) I'd been musing about whether it was poosible to inject a signal into the amp or headunit somehow.

Turns out, of course, that someone on turbobricks had already done it and worked out the pinouts on the headunit:
https://turbobricks.com/index.php?threads/oem-radi...

A nice little project for a couple of evenings this week.

Since I don't really do much soldering, I elected to get an 8 Pin din extension cable and cut the female end off to solder the 3.5mm switching jack onto, then I could only mess up one end.
Once I saw how small the jack was, after peering at it over the top of my glasses for a while I then went back on Amazon and bought one of those helping hand things with a magnifying glass on it. (actually, I bought a cheap kit with a soldering iron in it too, as I used my last one to make a smoke tester when the XC was playing up..)

Figuring it all out and working out the colours my din cable used:


Starting to solder:



Not too bad...


Getting the radio out this evening wasn't too difficult, then I just had to remove the jumper plug for the equaliser port:


Before plugging the end of my cable in. If I had looked at the back of the radio before I started, I wouldn't have bought a cable with a 90degree plug, but thats what the one on the turbobricks thread used. There is clearance, but it made getting the radio back in a bit tricky as it caught on the slight lip at the back of the housing.


It was also important to me, to not permanently damage the interior, so putting the port in an easily replaceable switch blank was the natural solution. My phone is mounted as low as possible to the bottom right of the windscreen so it hangs in front of the rightmost airvent, so a short 3.5mm jumper cable can reach it easily.


Of course, for some ungodly reason phones don't come with headphone jacks any more, so I had to buy another adapter.

Result: I've done soldering that works!
When listening to the radio, on inserting the 3.5mm plug, the radio cuts out, and the phone audio takes over.
The headphone output from the phone at full volume seems to be on a par with the line level from the radio, as the volume doesn't change and can be controlled just the same using the volume knob on the headunit.
Crystal clear stereo audio.
Remove the plug, and the radio returns.

Total cost of materials about £20 including the USB-C to headphone adapter and the extension cord.


Edited by chris1roll on Friday 15th March 22:34

chris1roll

Original Poster:

1,699 posts

245 months

Saturday 6th April
quotequote all
Managed to get the front brakes renovated between rain showers on Good Friday and the Saturday before Easter.
The front calipers were a little bit sticky so had intended to do this sooner rather than later. I hadn't rebuilt a caliper before, but how hard could it be?

I had been getting the parts together for a little while, and had had them all ready to go since early Jan, but the constant rain meant I didn't really get chance to get to it. As it was I dodged the showers as best I could - get a caliper off, it starts raining. Start stripping that one, it stops raining. Run out and get the other one off, it starts again, and so on. In the end I didn't lose too much time waiting around.

In my pile of parts was a set of Genuine Volvo pads, a set of Bosch 262mm non-hub discs, a caliper rebuild kit including pistons from bigg red.
A full set of 6 flexible hoses by Febi, and some Ceratec anti-squeal paste.

First off mix up some special sauce to give me the best chance of getting the unions undone without having to make up new hard lines.
I actually like making hard lines up, and making them look identical to the original, but didn't fancy doing it in the rain and getting everything full of moisture:


After much careful cleaning with a pick and small wire brush I squirted a load on and left it for half an hour.


Whether it was the special sauce, or the fact that being a proper Volvo the lines were made out of Cupro-Nickel rather than the plastic coated steel my brother is struggling with again on his S80, I'm not sure, but all 6 came undone with a minimum of fuss.


After wire brushing as much of the old brake dust etc off the calipers as I felt necessay, a combination of compressed air from a stirrup pump, and grabbing them with molegrips got the old pistons out (I wouldn't have done the molegrips part had I intended to re-use them:


It looks as if someone had attempted to lubricate them with some kind of silvery grease (graphite?) which had subsequently hardened, which would account for the slight reluctance for them to retract after application of the brakes.
Further, where it had ended up inside the caliper it had formed a sticky silvery goo that took ages to clean out, but after quite a while with a small brass brush, most of a can of brake cleaner and lots of blue towel I had the bores looking as clean as they were going to:



With all the other removable bits dismantled (getting the remains of the old piston boots out was the hardest as they are a very tight interference fit in the caliper) it was time to lay out the rebuild kit and put them back together again.

I used just clean brake fluid used to lubricate the seals. The new pistons from bigg red had a little chamfer on them to help with pushing them in, so they went on easily.
The best way I found to do the boots was to fit the boot to the piston, press the piston into the bore an inch or so, then press the boot into the recess in the caliper, which took quite a lot of thumb pressure and patience as it would pop out one side or the other.
Anyway, eventually they were all in place and I put all the other new rubber bits on with plenty of the silicone grease. I found a 22 (or was it 24) mm socket was perfect for pressing the silver retaining rings onto the lower slide pin boots, and the quarter drive extension good for pushing the upper boot through the caliper.


Caliper brackets all cleaned up:


(Note I'm not going for flashy pretty paint jobs here, standard and functional is the order of the day)

Seating face on the hub cleaned up, then new discs fitted, calipers refitted, new pads with new spring clips and anti-squeal, and finally all six new flexi hoses fitted:


I had assumed the rebuild kit came with bleed nipples. It did not, so I have got some that I will change at some point in the future.

Whilst I was waiting for my wife to come home from town so she could do the old up-down with me :tounge_smile: I replaced the anti-roll bar drop links with some Meyle items. I had bought the complete links as I had seen so manypeople just shear the top off when trying to undo them, but it seems I could have gotten way with just the bushes themselves as the ATF/Acetone mix worked a treat.
The old ones were a bit ropey:

Both located and tightened to 42mm between the washers:


Back to the brakes, my wife tells me we spent an hour and a quarter bleeding them.
First I found that the first in sequence kept producing air. What solved it in the end was abandoning that one, completing the rest of the sequence, the going round again. I can only surmise it was drawing air from the remainder of the triangle on that circuit, given the whole system was empty.
In the end, a litre and a half of Dot4+ went through the system fully flushing it.

They feel quite nice now after bedding them in.

AW111

9,674 posts

134 months

Sunday 7th April
quotequote all
Nice to see you keeping the old girl up.

I used to work for a co. that had mainly Volvo company cars, and drove a few.

The boss preferred Volvos for the load carrying, and not looking too flash (don't want customers thinking you are overcharging wink)

Sundry 244s - reliable workhorse.
Drove Melbourne -> Brisbane more than once.

264 - very comfy cruiser, loved the sunroof, drank like a fish when pressing on.

940 (Turbo) - fun, and very quick for it's day.

360 GLT (2 litre) - my company car. I had two in succession.
Not too bad performance for what it was.
Better handling than you'd expect, once you got past the understeer.
Drove it all over eastern Aus, including inland south australian desert roads. Took it rallying.

It was amusing to ford a creek crossing and meet a bunch of fully-kitted LandCruisers who were amazed to see a 2wd car out there.

In all those years of driving Volvos, the only failure I had was a fanbelt.

chris1roll

Original Poster:

1,699 posts

245 months

Friday 12th April
quotequote all
Shiny!

Since I'll have had the car a year in a few days, I thought I would actually do what I had been threatening to do since I got it, and replace the faded, cracked, leaky rear lights.

There was a bit of nailbiting when it turned out that DHL had handed the package over to parcel farce once it was in the UK, having previously seen them kick stuff up the garden path, but all turned out OK.


Faded, cracked and leaky:


New, with extra chrome (it gets you home):

Error_404_Username_not_found

2,257 posts

52 months

Friday 12th April
quotequote all
You have ParcelFarce? We only get aholeForce.
They destroyed a perfectly good toaster last week.
Nice job on the lights mate.
Edit: I'd love to get hold of the estate version of your car. Volvos somehow look even righter as estates.
(Said the S80 owner).

Edited by Error_404_Username_not_found on Friday 12th April 21:19

chris1roll

Original Poster:

1,699 posts

245 months

Friday 12th April
quotequote all
AW111 said:
Nice to see you keeping the old girl up.

I used to work for a co. that had mainly Volvo company cars, and drove a few.

The boss preferred Volvos for the load carrying, and not looking too flash (don't want customers thinking you are overcharging wink)

Sundry 244s - reliable workhorse.
Drove Melbourne -> Brisbane more than once.

264 - very comfy cruiser, loved the sunroof, drank like a fish when pressing on.

940 (Turbo) - fun, and very quick for it's day.

360 GLT (2 litre) - my company car. I had two in succession.
Not too bad performance for what it was.
Better handling than you'd expect, once you got past the understeer.
Drove it all over eastern Aus, including inland south australian desert roads. Took it rallying.

It was amusing to ford a creek crossing and meet a bunch of fully-kitted LandCruisers who were amazed to see a 2wd car out there.

In all those years of driving Volvos, the only failure I had was a fanbelt.
In 24 years I've personally had three failures to proceed.
My 440 1.6i the catalytic converter disintegrated and blocked the exhaust up on the M5
My Wifes XC70 blew the camshaft seal and pumped all the oil out in very short order.
This ones cambelt failure (although the car still ran and drove, so does it even count? hehe )

chris1roll

Original Poster:

1,699 posts

245 months

Friday 12th April
quotequote all
Error_404_Username_not_found said:
You have ParcelFarce? We only get aholeForce.
They destroyed a perfectly good toaster last week.
Nice job on the lights mate.
Thankfully they were very well packed, bubble wrap around each light, then each in an individual box, then in a bigger box with a good six inches of padding in each direction.

Baroque attacks

4,425 posts

187 months

Saturday 13th April
quotequote all
I love these cloud9

chris1roll

Original Poster:

1,699 posts

245 months

Saturday 20th April
quotequote all
Last weekend, we went on a day trip and drove up a biggish hill.
My lowly 2.0 litre engine and 3speed+OD slushbox had no issues hauling itself up there.

Blorenge, in South Wales, was shrouded in mist when we got there, at some points you couldn't see much more than 20 yards in any direction.
It is also home to the first Geocache ever placed in Wales, which was the purpose of our trip. After finding that -which was quite satisfying given the conditions- and two others on the circular route around the mountain, we retuned to the car in the sunshine:



It only took the time for us to get our kit off when the weather started coming in again.
We took a different route down on some steep narrow roads where at some points I had the gearbox down in '1' to hold the car back.
Other than someone very nearly taking the front end off by changing lanes without looking on the M49, an uneventful journey.



Over the past couple of months there had been an increasing squeaking coming from the powers steering pump belt, but not your usual slipping belt noise, but a continuous "chirp-chirp-chirp-chirp-chirp"
Investigation revealed the pulley being misaligned with the crank, so the chirping was the belt entering the pulley at an angle:


This might also explain an entry in the service history "recover car, replace snapped p/s belt" Presumably over time it'll just chew the belt up, and I'm guessing the original owner in his 80s didn't fancy driving it with no assistance.

So this morning I decided to see if I could so something about it.

Researching to see if anyone else had the same turned up a few instances, but all the replies were "replace the bushes".
For the avoidance of doubt, there are no bushes on the power steering pump on this car!

There is no play in the pulley, and it rotates on an even plane with the pump itself (i.e. the pulley and the shaft are not bent, and the bearings are not failing)
There is an awful lot of slop around the bolt attaching the pump to the big alloy bracket mounted to the block - the bolt is a proper fit in the pumps bracket, its the hole in the big alloy bracket that seems 'too big' allowing the pump to angle as it has.

First attempt - insert semi-circles of tin can to position the bolt at the correct angle:


This got the pulleys aligned initially, but once tightened down it drifted out a bit - it was much better than before, mind.
Its not possible to get sufficient shims in place accurately and then get the bolt in, as they are covered by the pump mounting before you can insert the bolt.

Second attempt, shim the two forward mounting points on the block by slipping a washer under each point:


That's got it, pretty much:


The only disavantage I can see with this is that the belt is now just a few mm too short, so I had to walk it on by rotating the engine slightly.

Not sure whether this fix counts as bodge or genius, time will tell. Its a damn sight quieter now, at least.