I've just bought some poverty Pork…
Discussion
eltax91 said:
Philvrs said:
On Facebook marketplace a manual cab in a nice colour, undiagnosed misfire so £5.5k
https://www.facebook.com/share/y7paMnf5XZuFG5KW/?m...
Ooof. New one for the ‘wallet drained’ thread https://www.facebook.com/share/y7paMnf5XZuFG5KW/?m...
Just bought this 179k mile 2.7 manual for £6,600.
Few things to be seen to and put right but overall very pleased. Engine sounds great and pulls well.
The gear box feels pretty stiff when moving from side to side (when moving from second to neutral, the lever stays to the left), and the electric window on the passenger side buggered itself on the way home but again, all else seems very solid initially.
Its either crappy repairs or its been seriously abused/never cleaned - one of the things I enjoyed so much about my 986 compared to all the other comparable sports cars I've owned (all the usual suspects) was its complete lack or corrosion - or susceptibility to corrosion, anywhere. Body shell, bolt on panels, chassis and suspension parts, fititngs and hardware - it was joyful to work on after decades of Japanese cars!
In that state is basically un-sellable - theres so many of them and the majority are still nigh on spotless. You'd have to be mad or work in a bodyshop/fabricators.
(I just looked at the price, its not even cheap!)
In that state is basically un-sellable - theres so many of them and the majority are still nigh on spotless. You'd have to be mad or work in a bodyshop/fabricators.
(I just looked at the price, its not even cheap!)
snotrag said:
Its either crappy repairs or its been seriously abused/never cleaned - one of the things I enjoyed so much about my 986 compared to all the other comparable sports cars I've owned (all the usual suspects) was its complete lack or corrosion - or susceptibility to corrosion, anywhere. Body shell, bolt on panels, chassis and suspension parts, fititngs and hardware - it was joyful to work on after decades of Japanese cars!
In that state is basically un-sellable - theres so many of them and the majority are still nigh on spotless. You'd have to be mad or work in a bodyshop/fabricators.
(I just looked at the price, its not even cheap!)
Fixer uppers always are expensive. People think because they have spent 2 grand recently their car should be worth 10 fixed. The problem is fixer uppers always look like total rubbish. I see a grand there maybe 1500 on a good day. You should probably break that for parts instead of fix.In that state is basically un-sellable - theres so many of them and the majority are still nigh on spotless. You'd have to be mad or work in a bodyshop/fabricators.
(I just looked at the price, its not even cheap!)
Escy said:
Definitely a breaker. I can't see them getting anywhere near the asking price.
Fortunately I got close enough to the asking price. 
I just priced it as the cheapest 986 S in the country that could immediately be used as a daily, but was realistic enough to know that anyone serious about buying it would haggle hard.
I think I was bitten on the buying end of the journey. It looked very nice and shiny when I bought it, but started bubbling within 9 months. I considered that repairing it would be uneconomical on a car that'd struggle to crack £6k ... so just accepted the rust for the 4.5 years that it was my daily driver.
ATM said:
Fixer uppers always are expensive. People think because they have spent 2 grand recently their car should be worth 10 fixed. The problem is fixer uppers always look like total rubbish. I see a grand there maybe 1500 on a good day. You should probably break that for parts instead of fix.
Fortunately I got double your good day estimate.I could have got comfortably more by breaking it, but I valued getting my driveway back more than the extra money of selling it bit by bit.
Over three years since we bought this pov Pork - https://www.flatsixclassics.co.uk/listings/porsche...
The plan was for it to cost less than buying a new car & the subsequent depreciation. Normally SWMBO would buy a new £20-25k Jap hatch
So far the expenses have been -
I did a full suspension refresh
O/S rad fan thermostat needed replacing this weekend
Gearbox multiway position sensor needed replacing.
Heating has just started being either full hot, or full cold, to will need a cabin temp sensor soon, £100-300 depending if I can find a working 2nd hand unit or need to buy a new one. It's a 10min job to fit
RMS & torque convertor was replaced under warranty.
The actual costs (over than normal running costs) have been under £2k for over three year. So far, brief fulfilled, and it's so much more fun than a Jap box.
The plan was for it to cost less than buying a new car & the subsequent depreciation. Normally SWMBO would buy a new £20-25k Jap hatch
So far the expenses have been -
I did a full suspension refresh
O/S rad fan thermostat needed replacing this weekend
Gearbox multiway position sensor needed replacing.
Heating has just started being either full hot, or full cold, to will need a cabin temp sensor soon, £100-300 depending if I can find a working 2nd hand unit or need to buy a new one. It's a 10min job to fit
RMS & torque convertor was replaced under warranty.
The actual costs (over than normal running costs) have been under £2k for over three year. So far, brief fulfilled, and it's so much more fun than a Jap box.
Edited by CallMeLegend on Monday 29th April 15:21
eltax91 said:
March 2001. 2.7, last of the dual row according to engine number. Only driven it the 40 minutes home, but felt right as a drum given its age.
Cadwell booked for June.
Check the rad fan resistors are good and both fans work at both speeds, you’ll probably be pushing it far harder than it has been used to in recent times.Cadwell booked for June.
Philvrs said:
eltax91 said:
March 2001. 2.7, last of the dual row according to engine number. Only driven it the 40 minutes home, but felt right as a drum given its age.
Cadwell booked for June.
Check the rad fan resistors are good and both fans work at both speeds, you’ll probably be pushing it far harder than it has been used to in recent times.Cadwell booked for June.
eltax91 said:
Any way to test that on the garage?
Start the engine and wait until it comes up to the temperature. Do not turn on A.C. once the engine temp reach the high amount, both front rads should start automatically to cool off. If they won't, they are probably damaged, ideally it is best to fix them or you can overheat the crap out of it in a slow traffic. (been there a few times, not good!)Gassing Station | Porsche General | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff