Any zc32 Suzuki swift sport users?
Discussion
I bought one a few weeks ago, I'm really enjoying it, I haven't done enough miles in it yet to form any great opinion, but so far I'm really enjoying it. I've gone from a 4.2 litre V8 barge to this and I can say that I don't miss the power, as this little thing is so much more fun to drive. It came with a spare set of winter wheels and tyres and was the cheapest on sale at the time, full service history and has been very well looked after. The only issues I have found so far are that the handbrake is crap and it seems to have a sporadic leak in the boot.
I'll investigate these issues this weekend. I would definitely recommend them, a great little thing to drive.
I'll investigate these issues this weekend. I would definitely recommend them, a great little thing to drive.
Elmoslides said:
Just leave it with the handbrake off and in gear…
I could do that, but it's probably better to get it fixed properly. I park it on my drive which has a little slope and leave it in gear so it isn't a problem, but I wouldn't trust parking it on a steep hill. I did adjust the handbrake from inside the car today and it felt much better but I did a quick test on a hill and it was still crap. Great little car though, I really like it.ALTO77 said:
I could do that, but it's probably better to get it fixed properly. I park it on my drive which has a little slope and leave it in gear so it isn't a problem, but I wouldn't trust parking it on a steep hill. I did adjust the handbrake from inside the car today and it felt much better but I did a quick test on a hill and it was still crap. Great little car though, I really like it.
How did you adjust it? Reason for asking is that you don’t do it via the obviously visible nuts. It’s the single nut at the rear of the lever which is quite well hidden. Apologies if you already know but it’s an easy mistake to make and will likely lead to binding.On a related note the rear callipers are known for binding. I clean and grease my sliders once a year and don’t have a problem.
On the leak, they pretty much all do it. It’s often one of the air vents which you have to take the trim off to get at. Still awkward.
The drain slot is really thin and gets clogged water then pools and gets in via the flimsy ‘one way’ flap. Can also leak from the antenna foot and although I’ve not experienced it people say the strut mounts, rubber grommets for electrics.
I got mine straight after a 545i and enjoy it much more. Despite what people say it’s not a slow car and has great handling and feel which more than makes up for straight line performance.
ALTO77 said:
Elmoslides said:
Just leave it with the handbrake off and in gear…
I could do that, but it's probably better to get it fixed properly. I park it on my drive which has a little slope and leave it in gear so it isn't a problem, but I wouldn't trust parking it on a steep hill. I did adjust the handbrake from inside the car today and it felt much better but I did a quick test on a hill and it was still crap. Great little car though, I really like it.Elmoslides said:
The rear brakes seem to be a weak point, as are the brake dust covers on the back of the brakes. One of mine is pretty corroded so I’ll have to change it.
I've got a 60k mile one which I've had for 6 years. Never had a problem with the rear brakes. I have a theory that some people don't fit new pads correctly and that causes a problem. The pads need to align with the mounting point on the piston face (they are rewind style) which I think some people get wrong.trickywoo said:
I've got a 60k mile one which I've had for 6 years. Never had a problem with the rear brakes. I have a theory that some people don't fit new pads correctly and that causes a problem. The pads need to align with the mounting point on the piston face (they are rewind style) which I think some people get wrong.
Cheers for that, I wasn’t aware of that. Do you stick with OEM pads and discs? Edited by Elmoslides on Tuesday 2nd April 10:19
Edited by Elmoslides on Tuesday 2nd April 10:26
Elmoslides said:
Do you stick with OEM pads and discs?
No they are terrible vfm. The discs especially are poor quality and cost a stupid amount from a stealer. Last time I looked they were getting on for £200 a pair.I got some Rottinger branded ones from CTC in 2020. Don't think they do them anymore but I'll be getting the next set from them when the time comes.
Pads get tribal. I've got two sports and back to back them regularly. One has EBC Ultimax 2 and the other EBC Green. The Ultimax are too grabby for my liking. The Greens need some heat but not loads and I like the pedal feel when they get hot. I'd fit them again but someone else will tell you they are junk and go for something else.
trickywoo said:
Elmoslides said:
Do you stick with OEM pads and discs?
No they are terrible vfm. The discs especially are poor quality and cost a stupid amount from a stealer. Last time I looked they were getting on for £200 a pair.I got some Rottinger branded ones from CTC in 2020. Don't think they do them anymore but I'll be getting the next set from them when the time comes.
Pads get tribal. I've got two sports and back to back them regularly. One has EBC Ultimax 2 and the other EBC Green. The Ultimax are too grabby for my liking. The Greens need some heat but not loads and I like the pedal feel when they get hot. I'd fit them again but someone else will tell you they are junk and go for something else.
As for OEM Discs they are actually better quality and take more of a beating. A set of Rottingher discs would last a season aka a year of track days where as OEM is 2-3 (fronts I am on about) rears. OEM lasted 5 years of track days then I replaced them with pads.
Elmoslides said:
Kev_Mk3 said:
… OEM lasted 5 years of track days then I replaced them with pads.
Sorry, bit confused by your last sentence…Kev_Mk3 said:
entropy said:
The backlight for the rev counter is literally on the blink (intermittently on) and is about to go. Anyone know if it's going to be an easy fix?
The only fix is belowhttps://www.ecutesting.com/product-catalogue/suzuk...
I'm also shopping for new discs and pads, I'm sure I read the OEM pads are made by TRW but I'm not sure how true this is. At the moment you can get discs and pads for all 4 corners from ECP for just under £300, that's Pagid. Direct from Suzuki it's £500.
I've seen Cuztoms which have now bought out CTC I believe have some ok deals on but I'm unsure on the quality of some of the brands he's selling, Textar, Japko, Herth+Buss are all brands I've not really heard of.
Edited by Garett on Wednesday 3rd April 20:09
Garett said:
I've lost the illumination on my rev counter needle which is irritating but not entirely essential. I guess the car doesn't run with the instrument cluster removed? Or can you temporarily fit one from another Sport or even a none Sport as a temporary measure whilst it's away getting repaired.
I'm also shopping for new discs and pads, I'm sure I read the OEM pads are made by TRW but I'm not sure how true this is. At the moment you can get discs and pads for all 4 corners from ECP for just under £300, that's Pagid. Direct from Suzuki it's £500.
I've seen Cuztoms which have now bought out CTC I believe have some ok deals on but I'm unsure on the quality of some of the brands he's selling, Textar, Japko, Herth+Buss are all brands I've not really heard of.
Textar are an OEM supplier to the likes of BMW and MB. Herth+Buss/Jakoparts are an established German firm with plants throughout Europe. Jakpo is a Polish firm with factories in Poland, Czech Republic, Slovakia, Germany, and Turkey. TRW are now part of ZF group.I'm also shopping for new discs and pads, I'm sure I read the OEM pads are made by TRW but I'm not sure how true this is. At the moment you can get discs and pads for all 4 corners from ECP for just under £300, that's Pagid. Direct from Suzuki it's £500.
I've seen Cuztoms which have now bought out CTC I believe have some ok deals on but I'm unsure on the quality of some of the brands he's selling, Textar, Japko, Herth+Buss are all brands I've not really heard of.
Edited by Garett on Wednesday 3rd April 20:09
Apec are also supposed to be ok if you don’t want to pay OEM prices.
Garett said:
Kev_Mk3 said:
entropy said:
The backlight for the rev counter is literally on the blink (intermittently on) and is about to go. Anyone know if it's going to be an easy fix?
The only fix is belowhttps://www.ecutesting.com/product-catalogue/suzuk...
I'm also shopping for new discs and pads, I'm sure I read the OEM pads are made by TRW but I'm not sure how true this is. At the moment you can get discs and pads for all 4 corners from ECP for just under £300, that's Pagid. Direct from Suzuki it's £500.
I've seen Cuztoms which have now bought out CTC I believe have some ok deals on but I'm unsure on the quality of some of the brands he's selling, Textar, Japko, Herth+Buss are all brands I've not really heard of.
Edited by Garett on Wednesday 3rd April 20:09
Kev_Mk3 said:
He has Rottingher discs also - they are brilliant
Ah yes , I missed those off but they look great VFM, they look like they are coated too so I'd imagine they don't instantly go rusty on the hub area like others do. I have Delphi pads on mine at the moment just because that's what were fitted when I bought it and they have been surprisingly decent, they stood up to 3 consecutive laps of the ring last year admirably well!
Garett said:
Kev_Mk3 said:
He has Rottingher discs also - they are brilliant
Ah yes , I missed those off but they look great VFM, they look like they are coated too so I'd imagine they don't instantly go rusty on the hub area like others do. I have Delphi pads on mine at the moment just because that's what were fitted when I bought it and they have been surprisingly decent, they stood up to 3 consecutive laps of the ring last year admirably well!
If you are changing the fronts discs, do consider buying new front carrier caliper bolts while you are at it. I did mine a few years back and they were seized solid. Eventually, I got them off with an Irwin rounded bolt remover. Maybe spraying them with penetrating oil months in advance would have done the trick. But, in my case the bolt remover had damaged the bolts to the point where they need to be replaced. It turned changing discs into a bruising multi day event. The parts are from Sims Suzuki and search 4x NEW Genuine Suzuki Front Brake Caliper Pad Carrier BOLTS 09117-12006. They are about £25, but may need replacing. My discs had been on the car for eight years before they were changed. Any sezied bolt can turn an easy job into a nightmare. This was a nightmare x 4.
Gassing Station | Japanese Chat | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff