Japanese imports
Discussion
I think the appeal is ULEZ/CAZ compliant petrol, low mileage, RHD versions of the german makes from that 2006 onwards era, when CO2 based tax here almost squeezed them out in favour of diesels. Plus you'd have to be minted to buy a new german car in Japan so many are very high spec, and not necessarily the huge exec saloons (7-series/S-class) as they still have space/parking limits to deal with. They tend to be very well looked after too.
There's definitely a niche out there for that stuff. Apparently auction prices in Japan have been collapsing, the Russians were importing loads of used Japanese market cars as sanctions stopped new cars, but now Japan has limited most used sales to there there's a more limited market. Shipping rates have been getting a bit better too.
There's definitely a niche out there for that stuff. Apparently auction prices in Japan have been collapsing, the Russians were importing loads of used Japanese market cars as sanctions stopped new cars, but now Japan has limited most used sales to there there's a more limited market. Shipping rates have been getting a bit better too.
BenEK9 said:
They are better for a few reasons, but I don't think the rain or air quality has anything to do with it. It is not the weather in this country that wrecks our cars its how we deal with it.
Japanese roads are not salted and all the auctions are generally graded accurately. The bad examples are just not exported in the same numbers as the good ones.
Can I just clarify that Japan does salt its roads. That’s everywhere in Japan, not just Hokkaido or the Chuo alps, everywhere. Japanese roads are not salted and all the auctions are generally graded accurately. The bad examples are just not exported in the same numbers as the good ones.
Edited by BenEK9 on Monday 9th October 03:27
The difference is the winters are usually drier, unless you’re in the mountains - which is 75% of the country.
A publication from Nexco (Japanese highway operator):
https://www.driveplaza.com/safetydrive/mamechishik...
There was a topic similar to OPs quite recently. I will attest that generally cars are in better condition, but it’s absolutely not a given. Japanese people just tend to look after things better.
The export process on the Japan side is pretty simple. I was going to go through an agent to ship my car out until a friend explained to me how easy it is. The difficult part you’ve got is trusting someone to check out the cars. As others have mentioned, the auction sheet is not gospel. But at least on this side you can return the car if it does not meet the description after the auction.
For your info: my mechanic charges 50k JPY (~£300) to purchase a car from auction. But you’ve got some smaller fees on top of that. You might be able to bypass the VAT by directly linking the auction purchase directly to the ship yard but my kanji‘s not good enough to figure that out.
LactoseJoe said:
Can I just clarify that Japan does salt its roads. That’s everywhere in Japan, not just Hokkaido or the Chuo alps, everywhere.
The difference is the winters are usually drier, unless you’re in the mountains - which is 75% of the country.
A publication from Nexco (Japanese highway operator):
https://www.driveplaza.com/safetydrive/mamechishik...
There was a topic similar to OPs quite recently. I will attest that generally cars are in better condition, but it’s absolutely not a given. Japanese people just tend to look after things better.
The export process on the Japan side is pretty simple. I was going to go through an agent to ship my car out until a friend explained to me how easy it is. The difficult part you’ve got is trusting someone to check out the cars. As others have mentioned, the auction sheet is not gospel. But at least on this side you can return the car if it does not meet the description after the auction.
For your info: my mechanic charges 50k JPY (~£300) to purchase a car from auction. But you’ve got some smaller fees on top of that. You might be able to bypass the VAT by directly linking the auction purchase directly to the ship yard but my kanji‘s not good enough to figure that out.
Good info thanks.The difference is the winters are usually drier, unless you’re in the mountains - which is 75% of the country.
A publication from Nexco (Japanese highway operator):
https://www.driveplaza.com/safetydrive/mamechishik...
There was a topic similar to OPs quite recently. I will attest that generally cars are in better condition, but it’s absolutely not a given. Japanese people just tend to look after things better.
The export process on the Japan side is pretty simple. I was going to go through an agent to ship my car out until a friend explained to me how easy it is. The difficult part you’ve got is trusting someone to check out the cars. As others have mentioned, the auction sheet is not gospel. But at least on this side you can return the car if it does not meet the description after the auction.
For your info: my mechanic charges 50k JPY (~£300) to purchase a car from auction. But you’ve got some smaller fees on top of that. You might be able to bypass the VAT by directly linking the auction purchase directly to the ship yard but my kanji‘s not good enough to figure that out.
I have two JDM cars, one imported last year and one this year. Some people just don't like imported cars. I guess its a hang over from the 90's when they were dirt cheap and somehow thought of an inferior. My 335i has adaptive steering, Its an option i wanted and it seems every Japanese market 335i had it specified. I suspect if I was looking for a UK LCI 335i N54 E91 with adaptive steering, I would not find one.
There are an abundance of UK specialist importers. There is not difficult part in trusting someone if your buying through a company. Same rules will apply as on your side.
Non on of this is opinion its just fact. There are fresh import jdm bmw's, VW's etc for sale now in the UK. They will be better than UK cars in condition and options and are generally more expensive.
TommoAE86 said:
Sorry Captain - thought I'd put my 2p on your observations 
The MOT doesn't check what the speedo reads in just that it lights up and you can read it.
Personally I don't see the issue with leaving it in KPH, the conversion isn't hard and even so you can learn the key speeds, but legislatively you have to account for stupid people. One bit of fun in changing the signal is that it removes the JDM speed limiter (180kph/112mph) as the speedo is effectively in MPH, take that law
Hi Tommocaptain.scarlet said:
Here are some of my observations on JDM vehicles, now that I own one (it's still abroad and the plan is to export it to the UK in future):
- The car language is likely going to be set to Japanese only.
- The dashboard buttons and on-screen menus will also be (stuck) in Japanese.
Buttons are usually a mix, Skyline was all symbols & English but my Crown is a mix of those plus Japanese text, it doesn't take long to work out what each does. - The car language is likely going to be set to Japanese only.
- The dashboard buttons and on-screen menus will also be (stuck) in Japanese.
captain.scarlet said:
- The radio may not necessarily work. Mine is a Mark II from 1990 and I've had to purchase a 12v Bluetooth device to pick up radio signals. There's a reason behind it but I don't want to give a wrong explanation.
There are specific FM radio expanders, mine cost £12 from amazon and now I can get most UK radio stations, Radio 2 will always be the strongest though.captain.scarlet said:
- Older satnavs will also be thrown off. Possibly less of an issue if there's a modern infotainment system, but I could be wrong!
Modern ones are likely to be locked, I have a big ocean vista on my 2006 Crown screen. Older cars will probably be better as it's less complicated to replace. captain.scarlet said:
- There's no rear fog light requirement in Japan, so you'll potentially have to factor that in. I was behind an obvious JDM imported Prius recently in the UK and one of the giveaways was the rear fog light being a basic rear mounted one, which was quite unsightly.
It is possible to have one within the rear light cluster but subject to particular minimum positionings away from other lamps as per the legislation (I can't recall the name but it's a 1989 Act). Otherwise it won't be road legal or able to get an MOT without a rear foglight.
I did unsightly awful thing on my Skyline, for the Crown I put it into of the reverse lights so it's just like some other UK sold cars with 1 fog and 1 reverse. It is possible to have one within the rear light cluster but subject to particular minimum positionings away from other lamps as per the legislation (I can't recall the name but it's a 1989 Act). Otherwise it won't be road legal or able to get an MOT without a rear foglight.
captain.scarlet said:
- The number plates for imported vehicles need to be of specific dimensions and the typeface a certain thickness.
Standard square plates should fit fine in the Japanese plate slot, just make sure the holes are drilled in the right place. No issues ordering new ones from any mainstream plates place. captain.scarlet said:
- The speedometer will be in KPH and there may not be the option of switching to MPH. An inexpensive USB/12v GPS speedometer or an OBD II one can overcome that issue, however.
Whenever I look at this it seems to generate discussion. As far as I believe it's an offense to have your car in KPH only under the construction & use regs, however this technically only applies to cars originally sold in the UK (this is how it's explained to me) so your import could be exempt, I wouldn't want to test that theory. To be sure you can get converters which change the signal before it hits the speedo and it'll display the MPH on the dash. The MOT doesn't check what the speedo reads in just that it lights up and you can read it.
Personally I don't see the issue with leaving it in KPH, the conversion isn't hard and even so you can learn the key speeds, but legislatively you have to account for stupid people. One bit of fun in changing the signal is that it removes the JDM speed limiter (180kph/112mph) as the speedo is effectively in MPH, take that law
captain.scarlet said:
I think there'll be some who may not be bothered and could learn to live with certain things. If it's something rare in the UK, collectible or classic then it could be appealing, especially to JDM enthusiasts, people in the car meet scene etc, but Japanese marque JDM vehicles would probably garner more interest.
I'm strongly biased to JDM metal so I justify all the little things you have to put up but the big one for me is that I have owned cars not sold in the UK. If I wanted something like a BMW/Audi etc I'd just search for a looked after UK example. Apologies and I know this is an old thread. and yours an older post. Admittedly I read your reply and got distracted and never came back to it.
Great insight as always from you when it comes to the JDM side of things.
One query I forgot to raise in this thread and which actually applies to my JDM future import is front and rear number plate lights.
My Mark II has extra bulbs front and rear for illuminated Japanese numberplates, in addition to the 'standard' rear numberplate lamps.
I'm guessing the extra bulbs were not factory standard, even in Japan in 1990!
The car now has opaque metal numberplates front and rear. In the front it is blocking most of the numberplate back-light such that there are two thin diagonal strips of light on the ground in addition to the beam from the headlights, if that makes any sense. It does look quite quirky and the extra light makes for a bit of extra visibility. Not really noticeable unless there are no street lights.
At the rear, I haven't removed the back-lights, so with the plastic numberplate holder and the numberplate itself, they portrude out enough to actually block the light from the factory numberplate lamps.
I don't know whether it is worth the faff of removing the Japanese numberplate back-lights (assuming they're not standard) in case having the extra light at the front and the semi-blocked numberplate lamps at the rear poses any issues, namely the MOT.
In an era of illuminated front grilles, I can't imagine the front extra light being an issue. It's more the level of visibility of the rear numberplate on dark / dimly lit roads.
Not sure about the Ulez side of things but certainly useful to know people's experiences.
Can you input the make, model, engine etc on the Ulez website?
More cars are Ulez compliant than the media hype would have people believe.
As regards the writing, it may be a matter of learning what the display messages "look like" and applying a bit of trial and error as to what they relate to. E.g. fuel range etc.
The Google App is really useful. Hover your phone camera over whatever it is and it'll translate it. Perhaps some labelled post-its or mini easy-peel stickers on the dash could assist initially.
I wouldn't let that put you off though. There are some great cars out there. I came across a 2010 Alphard with 80,000 km on the clock a few weeks ago with a very plush passenger section. Reclining rear seats, mood lighting etc. Everything in Japanese but with an asking price of about £2,800 it's a lot of car for the money.
I have a 1990 GX81, which means no toys or functions with Japanese writing on them. Only "gripe" when I come to importing it I suppose is going to be the speedometer and trip meter in metric. Not an issue if you know the respective imperial figure or get an aftermarket 12v/USB GPS speedometer. Again one of those things which in the grand scheme of things you can probably live with.
Can you input the make, model, engine etc on the Ulez website?
More cars are Ulez compliant than the media hype would have people believe.
As regards the writing, it may be a matter of learning what the display messages "look like" and applying a bit of trial and error as to what they relate to. E.g. fuel range etc.
The Google App is really useful. Hover your phone camera over whatever it is and it'll translate it. Perhaps some labelled post-its or mini easy-peel stickers on the dash could assist initially.
I wouldn't let that put you off though. There are some great cars out there. I came across a 2010 Alphard with 80,000 km on the clock a few weeks ago with a very plush passenger section. Reclining rear seats, mood lighting etc. Everything in Japanese but with an asking price of about £2,800 it's a lot of car for the money.
I have a 1990 GX81, which means no toys or functions with Japanese writing on them. Only "gripe" when I come to importing it I suppose is going to be the speedometer and trip meter in metric. Not an issue if you know the respective imperial figure or get an aftermarket 12v/USB GPS speedometer. Again one of those things which in the grand scheme of things you can probably live with.
I think the general form of the thread should tell you not to buy japanese cars for resale in the UK however in Ireland its been done for years and of late there are a lot of Euro cars being imported into Ireland. Generally they have lower mileage and less wear and tear.
I wouldn't however say that the auction cars are better condition, cars usually go into an auction because they can't be sold privately or a garage cannot stand over them. Probably more of an issue with performance cars but I have heard form some people lately that older JDM cars are coming through with quick paintjobs and generally not in the condition as they were described.
I wouldn't however say that the auction cars are better condition, cars usually go into an auction because they can't be sold privately or a garage cannot stand over them. Probably more of an issue with performance cars but I have heard form some people lately that older JDM cars are coming through with quick paintjobs and generally not in the condition as they were described.
captain.scarlet said:
Hi Tommo
Apologies and I know this is an old thread. and yours an older post. Admittedly I read your reply and got distracted and never came back to it.
Great insight as always from you when it comes to the JDM side of things.
One query I forgot to raise in this thread and which actually applies to my JDM future import is front and rear number plate lights.
My Mark II has extra bulbs front and rear for illuminated Japanese numberplates, in addition to the 'standard' rear numberplate lamps.
I'm guessing the extra bulbs were not factory standard, even in Japan in 1990!
The car now has opaque metal numberplates front and rear. In the front it is blocking most of the numberplate back-light such that there are two thin diagonal strips of light on the ground in addition to the beam from the headlights, if that makes any sense. It does look quite quirky and the extra light makes for a bit of extra visibility. Not really noticeable unless there are no street lights.
At the rear, I haven't removed the back-lights, so with the plastic numberplate holder and the numberplate itself, they portrude out enough to actually block the light from the factory numberplate lamps.
I don't know whether it is worth the faff of removing the Japanese numberplate back-lights (assuming they're not standard) in case having the extra light at the front and the semi-blocked numberplate lamps at the rear poses any issues, namely the MOT.
In an era of illuminated front grilles, I can't imagine the front extra light being an issue. It's more the level of visibility of the rear numberplate on dark / dimly lit roads.
Those lights sound very Japanese Apologies and I know this is an old thread. and yours an older post. Admittedly I read your reply and got distracted and never came back to it.
Great insight as always from you when it comes to the JDM side of things.
One query I forgot to raise in this thread and which actually applies to my JDM future import is front and rear number plate lights.
My Mark II has extra bulbs front and rear for illuminated Japanese numberplates, in addition to the 'standard' rear numberplate lamps.
I'm guessing the extra bulbs were not factory standard, even in Japan in 1990!
The car now has opaque metal numberplates front and rear. In the front it is blocking most of the numberplate back-light such that there are two thin diagonal strips of light on the ground in addition to the beam from the headlights, if that makes any sense. It does look quite quirky and the extra light makes for a bit of extra visibility. Not really noticeable unless there are no street lights.
At the rear, I haven't removed the back-lights, so with the plastic numberplate holder and the numberplate itself, they portrude out enough to actually block the light from the factory numberplate lamps.
I don't know whether it is worth the faff of removing the Japanese numberplate back-lights (assuming they're not standard) in case having the extra light at the front and the semi-blocked numberplate lamps at the rear poses any issues, namely the MOT.
In an era of illuminated front grilles, I can't imagine the front extra light being an issue. It's more the level of visibility of the rear numberplate on dark / dimly lit roads.
I worry about being legal too much but thought that if your plate wasn't illuminated then that's a MOT failure, one for that thread. In practise I doubt you'd be noticed at all, if you do feel like changing them then a good auto-electrician should be able to remove and check wiring, the guys I used for my FM expander, removing a JDM speed radar detector & tracing an audio issue were no phased by it being from the other side of the planet. TommoAE86 said:
Those lights sound very Japanese I worry about being legal too much but thought that if your plate wasn't illuminated then that's a MOT failure, one for that thread. In practise I doubt you'd be noticed at all, if you do feel like changing them then a good auto-electrician should be able to remove and check wiring, the guys I used for my FM expander, removing a JDM speed radar detector & tracing an audio issue were no phased by it being from the other side of the planet.
Cheers for the insight as always. I worry about being legal too much but thought that if your plate wasn't illuminated then that's a MOT failure, one for that thread. In practise I doubt you'd be noticed at all, if you do feel like changing them then a good auto-electrician should be able to remove and check wiring, the guys I used for my FM expander, removing a JDM speed radar detector & tracing an audio issue were no phased by it being from the other side of the planet. I can access the wiring behind the cover in the boot and did inadvertently (I think) reconnect the factory numberplate lamps which I'm assuming had been disconnected from a sort of clip-in junction boxes in favour of wires for the Japanese numberplate back-lights.
They're screwed on quite firmly so I was unable to remove the Japanese numberplate frame. I've now got a plastic frame screwed on top of it, which is why it extends back enough to be able to impede the factory lamps.
I think I could feed the wire back through the holes and remove the bulbs before then determining how easily removable the wires themselves are. I guess they could be harmless being dormant or 'inert' like that.
Priority for now is finding a new valve cover gasket for a 1G-GE engine or an identical part used in a similar engine or Toyota/Lexus. I've found one online for the FE that looks the same so it's a matter of gambling on it.
I've also been advised that for oil filters, an oil filter for a Toyota Hiace will fit...
captain.scarlet said:
Cheers for the insight as always.
I can access the wiring behind the cover in the boot and did inadvertently (I think) reconnect the factory numberplate lamps which I'm assuming had been disconnected from a sort of clip-in junction boxes in favour of wires for the Japanese numberplate back-lights.
They're screwed on quite firmly so I was unable to remove the Japanese numberplate frame. I've now got a plastic frame screwed on top of it, which is why it extends back enough to be able to impede the factory lamps.
I think I could feed the wire back through the holes and remove the bulbs before then determining how easily removable the wires themselves are. I guess they could be harmless being dormant or 'inert' like that.
Priority for now is finding a new valve cover gasket for a 1G-GE engine or an identical part used in a similar engine or Toyota/Lexus. I've found one online for the FE that looks the same so it's a matter of gambling on it.
I've also been advised that for oil filters, an oil filter for a Toyota Hiace will fit...
Hmmm doesn't sound like fun tracing all that back tbh.I can access the wiring behind the cover in the boot and did inadvertently (I think) reconnect the factory numberplate lamps which I'm assuming had been disconnected from a sort of clip-in junction boxes in favour of wires for the Japanese numberplate back-lights.
They're screwed on quite firmly so I was unable to remove the Japanese numberplate frame. I've now got a plastic frame screwed on top of it, which is why it extends back enough to be able to impede the factory lamps.
I think I could feed the wire back through the holes and remove the bulbs before then determining how easily removable the wires themselves are. I guess they could be harmless being dormant or 'inert' like that.
Priority for now is finding a new valve cover gasket for a 1G-GE engine or an identical part used in a similar engine or Toyota/Lexus. I've found one online for the FE that looks the same so it's a matter of gambling on it.
I've also been advised that for oil filters, an oil filter for a Toyota Hiace will fit...
For parts have you found the part number on Amayama? I use it on the Crown and then go to Toyota or my local guys and see if there are cheaper/available closer, although some parts I've found to be cheaper from Japan (like bonnet gas struts)
, just have to put up with the wait. 119 said:
What’s happened to my post earlier this morning?
How odd. Did you not accidentally delete it? It was a Ulez query IIRC.
Did you check out the Ulez webpage and do a car search? As the PHer's post above suggests, a degree of caution needs to be exercised, especially if the aim is to flip on the ordinary secondhand car market.
You'd think a Euro-whatever compliant engine would be the same regardless, but I think there's a chance a JDM car may not be able to be logged for emissions like a European one either due to specific data for that market not being available or held, but I may be wrong.
Perhaps upon first registration if as much of the relevant correct details, such as emissions and specifications, are provided then it could ensure the car is correctly categorised.
captain.scarlet said:
Cheers for the insight as always.
I can access the wiring behind the cover in the boot and did inadvertently (I think) reconnect the factory numberplate lamps which I'm assuming had been disconnected from a sort of clip-in junction boxes in favour of wires for the Japanese numberplate back-lights.
They're screwed on quite firmly so I was unable to remove the Japanese numberplate frame. I've now got a plastic frame screwed on top of it, which is why it extends back enough to be able to impede the factory lamps.
I think I could feed the wire back through the holes and remove the bulbs before then determining how easily removable the wires themselves are. I guess they could be harmless being dormant or 'inert' like that.
Priority for now is finding a new valve cover gasket for a 1G-GE engine or an identical part used in a similar engine or Toyota/Lexus. I've found one online for the FE that looks the same so it's a matter of gambling on it.
I've also been advised that for oil filters, an oil filter for a Toyota Hiace will fit...
Sorry for the ignorant question but why aren't you using the japanese license plate frame?I can access the wiring behind the cover in the boot and did inadvertently (I think) reconnect the factory numberplate lamps which I'm assuming had been disconnected from a sort of clip-in junction boxes in favour of wires for the Japanese numberplate back-lights.
They're screwed on quite firmly so I was unable to remove the Japanese numberplate frame. I've now got a plastic frame screwed on top of it, which is why it extends back enough to be able to impede the factory lamps.
I think I could feed the wire back through the holes and remove the bulbs before then determining how easily removable the wires themselves are. I guess they could be harmless being dormant or 'inert' like that.
Priority for now is finding a new valve cover gasket for a 1G-GE engine or an identical part used in a similar engine or Toyota/Lexus. I've found one online for the FE that looks the same so it's a matter of gambling on it.
I've also been advised that for oil filters, an oil filter for a Toyota Hiace will fit...
Also regarding japanese imports, owning and keeping a car in Japan is incredibly expensive and that results in a lot of good used cars being unsellable domestically as people who can afford to keep and maintain a car often don't consider it worth getting older vehicles.
Also I believe that once a car reaches a certain age, there is a yearly road tax which increases due to the age, making it better to export it.
LOGiK said:
captain.scarlet said:
Cheers for the insight as always.
I can access the wiring behind the cover in the boot and did inadvertently (I think) reconnect the factory numberplate lamps which I'm assuming had been disconnected from a sort of clip-in junction boxes in favour of wires for the Japanese numberplate back-lights.
They're screwed on quite firmly so I was unable to remove the Japanese numberplate frame. I've now got a plastic frame screwed on top of it, which is why it extends back enough to be able to impede the factory lamps.
I think I could feed the wire back through the holes and remove the bulbs before then determining how easily removable the wires themselves are. I guess they could be harmless being dormant or 'inert' like that.
Priority for now is finding a new valve cover gasket for a 1G-GE engine or an identical part used in a similar engine or Toyota/Lexus. I've found one online for the FE that looks the same so it's a matter of gambling on it.
I've also been advised that for oil filters, an oil filter for a Toyota Hiace will fit...
Sorry for the ignorant question but why aren't you using the japanese license plate frame?I can access the wiring behind the cover in the boot and did inadvertently (I think) reconnect the factory numberplate lamps which I'm assuming had been disconnected from a sort of clip-in junction boxes in favour of wires for the Japanese numberplate back-lights.
They're screwed on quite firmly so I was unable to remove the Japanese numberplate frame. I've now got a plastic frame screwed on top of it, which is why it extends back enough to be able to impede the factory lamps.
I think I could feed the wire back through the holes and remove the bulbs before then determining how easily removable the wires themselves are. I guess they could be harmless being dormant or 'inert' like that.
Priority for now is finding a new valve cover gasket for a 1G-GE engine or an identical part used in a similar engine or Toyota/Lexus. I've found one online for the FE that looks the same so it's a matter of gambling on it.
I've also been advised that for oil filters, an oil filter for a Toyota Hiace will fit...
Also regarding japanese imports, owning and keeping a car in Japan is incredibly expensive and that results in a lot of good used cars being unsellable domestically as people who can afford to keep and maintain a car often don't consider it worth getting older vehicles.
Also I believe that once a car reaches a certain age, there is a yearly road tax which increases due to the age, making it better to export it.
IIRC the numberplates I was issued here by the equivalent of the DVLA were the smallest size available and as they're metal and embossed I can't shave bits off to get the back one to fit.
As for condition, I agree that cosmetically on the whole the exteriors are in better shape than their UK equivalents. Sometimes the interiors can be filthy, smell of cigarettes and have burn marks all over the seating and upholstery. A lot of worn out steering wheels as well.
Mine has a rust issue underneath that I completely overlooked as I was smitten by the rest of the car's overall good condition and intact interior. Plus I wanted something original and unmodified and finding a GX81 in that condition was rare in itself. I mothballed the idea of a late 1990s early 2000s Crown in favour of this.
It's something of a shame to think the classic car supply in Japan is being depleted as they're auctioned off in such vast quantities, however. I wonder what classic enthusiasts there are saying.
captain.scarlet said:
How odd. Did you not accidentally delete it?
It was a Ulez query IIRC.
Did you check out the Ulez webpage and do a car search? As the PHer's post above suggests, a degree of caution needs to be exercised, especially if the aim is to flip on the ordinary secondhand car market.
You'd think a Euro-whatever compliant engine would be the same regardless, but I think there's a chance a JDM car may not be able to be logged for emissions like a European one either due to specific data for that market not being available or held, but I may be wrong.
Perhaps upon first registration if as much of the relevant correct details, such as emissions and specifications, are provided then it could ensure the car is correctly categorised.
Post year 2000 JDM petrol meets ULEZ emissions standards, the chassis plate shows you the code for the Japanese emissions standard the car was built to.It was a Ulez query IIRC.
Did you check out the Ulez webpage and do a car search? As the PHer's post above suggests, a degree of caution needs to be exercised, especially if the aim is to flip on the ordinary secondhand car market.
You'd think a Euro-whatever compliant engine would be the same regardless, but I think there's a chance a JDM car may not be able to be logged for emissions like a European one either due to specific data for that market not being available or held, but I may be wrong.
Perhaps upon first registration if as much of the relevant correct details, such as emissions and specifications, are provided then it could ensure the car is correctly categorised.
To get that accepted for ULEZ in practice i haven't tried, but technically it complies.
My particular car has the emissions code GH which is Japanese standard for 2000-2005 with a compliant Nox value required.
This page is helpfull https://toyota-club.net/files/faq/10-10-15_faq_eco...
D_G said:
You won't. It's a fixed 01/01/06 date for a JDM car to be euro 4 petrol compliant.
The requirement is to meet the Euro4 NOx standard, not to be Euro4 compliant. TFL website states.
"Nearly all petrol vehicles produced since 2005 meet the ULEZ standards
Vehicles which meet the equivalent of the Euro 4 NOx standard for petrol have been available to buy since 2001"
2000-2005 JDM petrol meet that NOx standard.
520TORQUES said:
The requirement is to meet the Euro4 NOx standard, not to be Euro4 compliant.
...
2000-2005 JDM petrol meet that NOx standard.
They emit below the required quantity of NOx per km but crucially they do so on the Japanese test cycle, which is different from the Euro test cycle (different speeds for one thing)....
2000-2005 JDM petrol meet that NOx standard.
Therefore being below the limit on the Japanese test doesn't mean it necessarily would be on the Euro one.
(It very likely would in 99% of cases, but you can't prove it without re-testing the vehicle on the Euro cycle)
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