2.0 TDI Question For The Tame Technician
Discussion
Having issues with ISP so while its working try and get some posts up.
THIS
"The engine runs smooth when cold and when driving feels fine but when it's started from cold and left on for 10 mins to get up to temp it then all of a sudden starts running lumpy"
Is it an elctrical or vacuum EGR valve on that, Im assuming electrical.
This is text book for an EGR fault. Try installing a temp EGR blank, and repeat warming up the engine to see if its any better, when coolant temps get to arround 70 degrees is usually when it happens.
The MVB's for injectors 3 and 4 are a bit suss, so it could be an injector or injector seal issue but to much EGR can cause this, so need to rule that out first really.
THIS
"The engine runs smooth when cold and when driving feels fine but when it's started from cold and left on for 10 mins to get up to temp it then all of a sudden starts running lumpy"
Is it an elctrical or vacuum EGR valve on that, Im assuming electrical.
This is text book for an EGR fault. Try installing a temp EGR blank, and repeat warming up the engine to see if its any better, when coolant temps get to arround 70 degrees is usually when it happens.
The MVB's for injectors 3 and 4 are a bit suss, so it could be an injector or injector seal issue but to much EGR can cause this, so need to rule that out first really.
Great thanks for getting back to me, it has a vacuum pipe attached to the left of it so I'm guessing it's a mechanical one.
I will try and rule it out firstly by seeing if it's full of soot, I am planning on egr delete in the future and pcv mod with catch tank which I have already purchased as the intercooler connections where the hoses clip in are dripping with oil!
It is a strange one because when it's cold it idles nice but then around ten mins ish when it gets up to temp like clicking your fingers straight away it starts idling rough. The car drives really nice when it's moving. I forgot to mention it's done 70k miles.
You don't think it could be timing related as iv read that once a timing belt is performed after a fair few thousand miles it could require slight adjustment. I remember having this similar issue with my 8v that was in my vrs changed the belt then after a little while would not start one morning.
Do you know whether it is vital to have the pcv system fully connected as iv been reading people are plugging the intake pipe and leaving the system running to open air? Only ask as iv been thinking of keeping it isolated from the intake and running it to open air. I ran it in this way with my agu 1.8t but unsure with the bkd derv lump
Big thanks in advance mr TT!
I will try and rule it out firstly by seeing if it's full of soot, I am planning on egr delete in the future and pcv mod with catch tank which I have already purchased as the intercooler connections where the hoses clip in are dripping with oil!
It is a strange one because when it's cold it idles nice but then around ten mins ish when it gets up to temp like clicking your fingers straight away it starts idling rough. The car drives really nice when it's moving. I forgot to mention it's done 70k miles.
You don't think it could be timing related as iv read that once a timing belt is performed after a fair few thousand miles it could require slight adjustment. I remember having this similar issue with my 8v that was in my vrs changed the belt then after a little while would not start one morning.
Do you know whether it is vital to have the pcv system fully connected as iv been reading people are plugging the intake pipe and leaving the system running to open air? Only ask as iv been thinking of keeping it isolated from the intake and running it to open air. I ran it in this way with my agu 1.8t but unsure with the bkd derv lump
Big thanks in advance mr TT!
Edited by Demo8dan on Wednesday 16th October 00:03
Hi mr TT I finally had time to take a look. I took the egr off it was relatively clean for a derv I still got some carb cleaner on it and tested it, all fine. I even added that egr exhaust pipe gasket with the smaller hole in the middle of it part no 028131547B
The problem is still there though, it's happening when the temp gets to around 70deg it starts spluttering and running rough but when it gets to 90deg it's running smooth again? Very odd and I can only think it could be the temp sender maybe I could be wrong... What do you think, have you come across this problem before?
Thanks
The problem is still there though, it's happening when the temp gets to around 70deg it starts spluttering and running rough but when it gets to 90deg it's running smooth again? Very odd and I can only think it could be the temp sender maybe I could be wrong... What do you think, have you come across this problem before?
Thanks
Edited by Demo8dan on Sunday 1st December 00:13
Hi TT,
Hoping you can give me some guidance on my issue. I own an Audi A4 2.0 TDI 140 Multi-tronic (06 Plate). I recently purchased it only 2 months ago.
As the weather has got colder recently, I have an issue, where the car is very sluggish when driving first thing in the morning. The revs shoot up to about 3000-3200, but the car moves very slowly, and there is little accelaration. The revs shoot up as I'm pressing the accelorator just slightly, takes ages to get to just 40-45mph, then the revs drop, and it just doesn't sound right. After a few minutes, it returns to normal, and driving and performance is fine. It is something connected to the cold weather.
The garage I recently took it to, told me that this was normal, and there are no fault codes coming up. My concern is that since there is no fault code, they just fobbed me off and told me it's not an issue.
Does this sound like anything you have seen or heard of before?
Thanks.
Hoping you can give me some guidance on my issue. I own an Audi A4 2.0 TDI 140 Multi-tronic (06 Plate). I recently purchased it only 2 months ago.
As the weather has got colder recently, I have an issue, where the car is very sluggish when driving first thing in the morning. The revs shoot up to about 3000-3200, but the car moves very slowly, and there is little accelaration. The revs shoot up as I'm pressing the accelorator just slightly, takes ages to get to just 40-45mph, then the revs drop, and it just doesn't sound right. After a few minutes, it returns to normal, and driving and performance is fine. It is something connected to the cold weather.
The garage I recently took it to, told me that this was normal, and there are no fault codes coming up. My concern is that since there is no fault code, they just fobbed me off and told me it's not an issue.
Does this sound like anything you have seen or heard of before?
Thanks.
Hi all, Please could I add a post for a possible answer?
2.0 PD BKD Octavia 2006. Mileage currently at 125k but has done this since 80k.
When ambient temperatures are below say 7-10 degrees outside the car is rough to start resulting on some bluish/white smoke.
That I can live with but the main issue is that after a few moments of the car idling (when the revs drop a bit back to normal 830rpm) the engine suddenly becomes pretty rough. You can physically feel and see the engine block moving. It is almost like a miss fire.
In temps above 12 degrees C there is no roughness to the idle at all. When the car is hot at low ambient temps the idle is fine also. Purely on really cold starts.
Action taken:
I've cleaned the EGR (also used the SEAT EGR reducing gasket).
Tried unplugging the EGR vacuum pipe, no change.
Cleaned Anti shudder valve.
Swapped Fuel and Temp sensors for new, it's got a fairly new clutch and flywheel.
Fuel filter changed.
New Glow plugs and new injection loom and there are no faults showing on my VCDS.
Makes no difference if I depress the clutch, the engine still jumps around.
I have changed/upped the idle RPM speed and whilst this helps its still there until the engine is warm.
If I drop the idle speed to say 700 or so when the car is missing like this it almost stalls out.
Sticking the air con on also helps, almost as if it needs a higher injection quantity?
I am unable to change the injection quantity at start/cold since that section in VCDS is greyed out.
Point to note, my oil temperature sensor shows 30 degrees whilst ambient temps are 9. Would this have an effect to cold idling?
Apart from that power is good at all times whether the engine is hot or cold and MPG is always in the 50's.
Does anyone suggest anything else to try?
Perhaps Tame Technician?
VCDS logs
COLD:
Injection Quantity - Deviation Cyl. 1 Injection Quantity - Deviation Cyl. 2 Injection Quantity - Deviation Cyl. 3 Injection Quantity - Deviation Cyl. 4
mg/str mg/str mg/str mg/str
0 0 0 0
-0.02 0 0 0.07
-0.02 -0.14 -0.21 0.47
0 -0.47 -0.38 0.82
0.05 -0.61 -0.42 1.01
-0.05 -0.56 -0.35 0.99
-0.12 -0.42 -0.19 0.75
-0.16 -0.33 -0.02 0.56
-0.21 -0.38 0 0.59
-0.26 -0.42 0.02 0.66
-0.31 -0.38 0.09 0.59
-0.35 -0.28 0.12 0.54
-0.38 -0.28 0.12 0.52
Engine Speed - (G28) Injection Quantity Injection Duration - (specified) Coolant - Temperature (G62) Exhaust Gas - Recirculat. (actual) Injection Start - (specified) Torsion Value
/min mg/str °KW °C mg/str °BTDC °KW
0 34.3 0 3.6 0 9.9 0
0 34.3 0 3.6 0 9.9 0
0 34.3 0 3.6 0 9.9 0
0 34.3 0 3.6 0 9.9 0
0 34.3 0 3.6 0 9.9 0
0 34.3 0 3.6 0 9.9 0
0 34.3 0 3.6 0 9.9 0
168 34.3 10.2 3.6 195 9.9 0
294 34 10.2 3.6 475 9.9 0
798 26.6 9.7 3.6 385 13.6 -1.5
1008 15.1 7.7 3.6 475 13.6 -2
945 15.4 7.1 3.6 480 13.3 -2.5
924 14.8 7.1 3.6 475 13.3 -2.5
924 14.5 7.1 3.6 485 13.3 -2.5
945 13.7 6.6 3.6 485 13.3 -2.5
945 13.5 7.7 3.6 465 13.3 -2.5
924 13.2 7.7 3.6 480 13.3 -2.5
903 14.3 8.2 3.6 485 13.3 -2.5
924 13.2 7.7 3.6 485 13.6 -2.5
924 12.6 7.7 3.6 485 13.6 -2.5
HOT
-0.38 -0.16 0.28 0.26
-0.42 -0.14 0.28 0.28
-0.38 -0.21 0.35 0.26
-0.38 -0.21 0.33 0.26
-0.35 -0.21 0.31 0.26
-0.42 -0.16 0.33 0.28
-0.42 -0.19 0.35 0.28
-0.45 -0.21 0.35 0.28
-0.4 -0.16 0.31 0.26
-0.42 -0.14 0.33 0.24
-0.4 -0.14 0.33 0.21
-0.4 -0.19 0.35 0.24
Engine Speed - (G28) Injection Quantity Injection Duration - (specified) Coolant - Temperature (G62) Exhaust Gas - Recirculat. (actual) Injection Start - (specified)
/min mg/str °KW °C mg/str °BTDC
840 4.4 6.6 86.4 430 0
819 4.9 7.1 86.4 435 0
819 4.9 6.6 86.4 420 0
819 4.9 6.6 86.4 430 0
819 4.9 6.6 86.4 425 0
819 5.2 6.6 86.4 430 0
819 4.9 6.6 86.4 420 0
819 4.9 6.6 86.4 420 0
819 4.9 6.6 86.4 435 0
819 4.9 6.6 86.4 420 0
819 5.2 6.6 86.4 430 0
819 4.9 7.1 86.4 425 0
819 4.9 6.6 86.4 425 0
819 4.9 6.6 86.4 425 0
840 4.7 6.6 86.4 425 0
819 4.9 6.6 86.4 430 0
819 4.9 6.6 86.4 430 0
840 4.7 6.6 86.4 435 0
819 4.9 6.6 86.4 425 0
819 4.7 6.6 86.4 425 0
840 4.7 6.6 86.4 430 0
840 4.7 6.6 86.4 430 0
2.0 PD BKD Octavia 2006. Mileage currently at 125k but has done this since 80k.
When ambient temperatures are below say 7-10 degrees outside the car is rough to start resulting on some bluish/white smoke.
That I can live with but the main issue is that after a few moments of the car idling (when the revs drop a bit back to normal 830rpm) the engine suddenly becomes pretty rough. You can physically feel and see the engine block moving. It is almost like a miss fire.
In temps above 12 degrees C there is no roughness to the idle at all. When the car is hot at low ambient temps the idle is fine also. Purely on really cold starts.
Action taken:
I've cleaned the EGR (also used the SEAT EGR reducing gasket).
Tried unplugging the EGR vacuum pipe, no change.
Cleaned Anti shudder valve.
Swapped Fuel and Temp sensors for new, it's got a fairly new clutch and flywheel.
Fuel filter changed.
New Glow plugs and new injection loom and there are no faults showing on my VCDS.
Makes no difference if I depress the clutch, the engine still jumps around.
I have changed/upped the idle RPM speed and whilst this helps its still there until the engine is warm.
If I drop the idle speed to say 700 or so when the car is missing like this it almost stalls out.
Sticking the air con on also helps, almost as if it needs a higher injection quantity?
I am unable to change the injection quantity at start/cold since that section in VCDS is greyed out.
Point to note, my oil temperature sensor shows 30 degrees whilst ambient temps are 9. Would this have an effect to cold idling?
Apart from that power is good at all times whether the engine is hot or cold and MPG is always in the 50's.
Does anyone suggest anything else to try?
Perhaps Tame Technician?
VCDS logs
COLD:
Injection Quantity - Deviation Cyl. 1 Injection Quantity - Deviation Cyl. 2 Injection Quantity - Deviation Cyl. 3 Injection Quantity - Deviation Cyl. 4
mg/str mg/str mg/str mg/str
0 0 0 0
-0.02 0 0 0.07
-0.02 -0.14 -0.21 0.47
0 -0.47 -0.38 0.82
0.05 -0.61 -0.42 1.01
-0.05 -0.56 -0.35 0.99
-0.12 -0.42 -0.19 0.75
-0.16 -0.33 -0.02 0.56
-0.21 -0.38 0 0.59
-0.26 -0.42 0.02 0.66
-0.31 -0.38 0.09 0.59
-0.35 -0.28 0.12 0.54
-0.38 -0.28 0.12 0.52
Engine Speed - (G28) Injection Quantity Injection Duration - (specified) Coolant - Temperature (G62) Exhaust Gas - Recirculat. (actual) Injection Start - (specified) Torsion Value
/min mg/str °KW °C mg/str °BTDC °KW
0 34.3 0 3.6 0 9.9 0
0 34.3 0 3.6 0 9.9 0
0 34.3 0 3.6 0 9.9 0
0 34.3 0 3.6 0 9.9 0
0 34.3 0 3.6 0 9.9 0
0 34.3 0 3.6 0 9.9 0
0 34.3 0 3.6 0 9.9 0
168 34.3 10.2 3.6 195 9.9 0
294 34 10.2 3.6 475 9.9 0
798 26.6 9.7 3.6 385 13.6 -1.5
1008 15.1 7.7 3.6 475 13.6 -2
945 15.4 7.1 3.6 480 13.3 -2.5
924 14.8 7.1 3.6 475 13.3 -2.5
924 14.5 7.1 3.6 485 13.3 -2.5
945 13.7 6.6 3.6 485 13.3 -2.5
945 13.5 7.7 3.6 465 13.3 -2.5
924 13.2 7.7 3.6 480 13.3 -2.5
903 14.3 8.2 3.6 485 13.3 -2.5
924 13.2 7.7 3.6 485 13.6 -2.5
924 12.6 7.7 3.6 485 13.6 -2.5
HOT
-0.38 -0.16 0.28 0.26
-0.42 -0.14 0.28 0.28
-0.38 -0.21 0.35 0.26
-0.38 -0.21 0.33 0.26
-0.35 -0.21 0.31 0.26
-0.42 -0.16 0.33 0.28
-0.42 -0.19 0.35 0.28
-0.45 -0.21 0.35 0.28
-0.4 -0.16 0.31 0.26
-0.42 -0.14 0.33 0.24
-0.4 -0.14 0.33 0.21
-0.4 -0.19 0.35 0.24
Engine Speed - (G28) Injection Quantity Injection Duration - (specified) Coolant - Temperature (G62) Exhaust Gas - Recirculat. (actual) Injection Start - (specified)
/min mg/str °KW °C mg/str °BTDC
840 4.4 6.6 86.4 430 0
819 4.9 7.1 86.4 435 0
819 4.9 6.6 86.4 420 0
819 4.9 6.6 86.4 430 0
819 4.9 6.6 86.4 425 0
819 5.2 6.6 86.4 430 0
819 4.9 6.6 86.4 420 0
819 4.9 6.6 86.4 420 0
819 4.9 6.6 86.4 435 0
819 4.9 6.6 86.4 420 0
819 5.2 6.6 86.4 430 0
819 4.9 7.1 86.4 425 0
819 4.9 6.6 86.4 425 0
819 4.9 6.6 86.4 425 0
840 4.7 6.6 86.4 425 0
819 4.9 6.6 86.4 430 0
819 4.9 6.6 86.4 430 0
840 4.7 6.6 86.4 435 0
819 4.9 6.6 86.4 425 0
819 4.7 6.6 86.4 425 0
840 4.7 6.6 86.4 430 0
840 4.7 6.6 86.4 430 0
Edited by plantman2000 on Tuesday 10th December 13:07
Edited by plantman2000 on Tuesday 10th December 14:48
Hi plantman get us some measurements on group 4 to see the torsion value and group 15 block 3 m/l hour. If you've read my posts I was having rough idle but only at first part of warming up my torsion value was sitting at -2.5 I have re tuned the timing and now she's sitting at 0.0 and starts and idles fine, the timing belts on the 16v stretch a little after changing and can sometimes cause torsion to go out slightly resulting in rough idles. I ran it at 0.0 for a 60 mile run on the motorway and it was struggling to get over 52mpg so I have re positioned the timing to -2.0 which idles nicely all the way through from cold to normal running temp and runs at 0.2-0.4 ml hour as when it was running at -2.5 I was getting over 60mpg but was running lumpy.
If your local to ashford kent I don't mind helping you out dial the timing. The smoke could be injector seals or rings but my old skoda vrs ran nicely to 120k miles when I sold it, it was an 8v though and was a bit smokey at times when hoofing it but it was a diesel...
If your local to ashford kent I don't mind helping you out dial the timing. The smoke could be injector seals or rings but my old skoda vrs ran nicely to 120k miles when I sold it, it was an 8v though and was a bit smokey at times when hoofing it but it was a diesel...
Edited by Demo8dan on Wednesday 1st January 21:31
I have noticed the torsion values on your logs your timing is out slightly as it's reading -2.5. Take the timing cover off and get a 13mm ring spanner and an 18mm. Do the first cam closest to you when your standing on front of the car looking at the bay. Draw round each nut head as a guide incase you move it to far so you can move it back to where it was. Undo the 3 x 13mm bolts get the 18mm on the cam pulley bolt and move it anti clockwise only a few thou of a millimetre tighten up the 3 x13mm again and run vcds and check torsion value is recommend anything above -2.0. Once the value is achieved match the position on the rear cam the same way you did the front. FYI I used a 6mm allen key and put the short part in one of the slots on the pulley as there is a hole inside which it'll slot in (this is part of the cam), put key in the front cam and mark the key with a reference on the pulley wheel I did this with the text stamped on the pulley. Once this is complete check group 15 block 3 m/l hour make sure this is not high. Mine on idle at normal running temp is 0.20 to 0.40 no higher
Hope this helps bud
Hope this helps bud
(1) Valve timing check and adjust first, check the fuel delivery angle and ammount with Vagcom adjust to get the numbers state somewhere in this thread.
(2) Check for any boost or vacuum leaks
(3) check EGR function, if in any doubt, blank off EGR for testing, this will put the engine light on after a few days, but is safe to do for testing.
(4) Replace injector seals while they are out have the injectors ultra-sonicaly cleaned.
(5) Replace flywheel
(6) scrap it or sell to we buy any car dot com
(7) Buy newer CR 2.0TDI engine and wonder at how much better it is, and how on earth people used to put up with the BRE BKD BRD etc
(2) Check for any boost or vacuum leaks
(3) check EGR function, if in any doubt, blank off EGR for testing, this will put the engine light on after a few days, but is safe to do for testing.
(4) Replace injector seals while they are out have the injectors ultra-sonicaly cleaned.
(5) Replace flywheel
(6) scrap it or sell to we buy any car dot com
(7) Buy newer CR 2.0TDI engine and wonder at how much better it is, and how on earth people used to put up with the BRE BKD BRD etc
Edited by Tame Technician on Tuesday 8th April 23:26
Hi all,
I was hoping you could help. (TT especially)
I have quite strange goings on with the 2007 Octavia VRS TDI I have just bought. I bought it as a project, and knew about the problems before hand, but got it at a decent price so thought I'd take the risk. However, I'm pretty much stumped now!
..................................................................
Long story short -
NO FAULT CODES.
Car has a misfire at idle that comes and goes.
It also stutters and misfires while driving mainly noticeable under load from 2-3000rpm.
White smoke comes and goes too, as well as (but not at the same time as the smoke) a strong eye watering diesel smell.
Injector 3 is the one that goes out on injection quantity deviation on VCDS when it misfires, and then comes back into line. I have replaced injector 3 with a spare and no difference.
After playing about the other day the car cut out showing:
-->> 001649 - Cylinder 1 Glow Plug Circuit (Q10)
P0671 - 006 - Electrical Fault - Intermittent
-->> 005734 - PD Unit Injector; Cylinder 1 (N240)
P1666 - 006 - Electrical Malfunction - Intermittent
And would not restart. I whipped cam cover off, and disconnected cylinder one injector and it started. I reconnected and it was fine after (well as fine as the above symptoms allow) I then noticed injector loom round multiplug was loose, so this was maybe the cause.
..................................................................
Car had injector recall done at Audi 20k miles ago. Car has a remap and dpf delete. Brand new clutch and flywheel, and a few other bits.
If you want to read a detailed thread about what I have tried, with pics and vids as well, please see my thread on Briskoda here -
http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/314355-ku57-m...
I am now officially stumped!!
Thanks in advance,
Tony.
I was hoping you could help. (TT especially)
I have quite strange goings on with the 2007 Octavia VRS TDI I have just bought. I bought it as a project, and knew about the problems before hand, but got it at a decent price so thought I'd take the risk. However, I'm pretty much stumped now!
..................................................................
Long story short -
NO FAULT CODES.
Car has a misfire at idle that comes and goes.
It also stutters and misfires while driving mainly noticeable under load from 2-3000rpm.
White smoke comes and goes too, as well as (but not at the same time as the smoke) a strong eye watering diesel smell.
Injector 3 is the one that goes out on injection quantity deviation on VCDS when it misfires, and then comes back into line. I have replaced injector 3 with a spare and no difference.
After playing about the other day the car cut out showing:
-->> 001649 - Cylinder 1 Glow Plug Circuit (Q10)
P0671 - 006 - Electrical Fault - Intermittent
-->> 005734 - PD Unit Injector; Cylinder 1 (N240)
P1666 - 006 - Electrical Malfunction - Intermittent
And would not restart. I whipped cam cover off, and disconnected cylinder one injector and it started. I reconnected and it was fine after (well as fine as the above symptoms allow) I then noticed injector loom round multiplug was loose, so this was maybe the cause.
..................................................................
Car had injector recall done at Audi 20k miles ago. Car has a remap and dpf delete. Brand new clutch and flywheel, and a few other bits.
If you want to read a detailed thread about what I have tried, with pics and vids as well, please see my thread on Briskoda here -
http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/314355-ku57-m...
I am now officially stumped!!
Thanks in advance,
Tony.
I managed to sort it! 
First of all, I had the bits on order from eBay and TPS when I found a post on UK-MK4 forum where a chap said that the injector clamp bolts can stretch over time. I PM'd him for more info and he said that a friend of his is an Ex Master Tech at VW who now owns his own independent garage and he has seen stretched bolts a few times!
Anyway, Got a set of seals - 03G 198 051D - from eBay for £60 delivered from Plymouth Audi (Normally an eye watering £107.33!!). I ordered the rest from TPS -
N10 581 101 - x5 rocker bolt - £5.65 for all
WHT 003 179 - x8 injector bolt - £16.48 for all
03G 145 215 A - tandem pump seal - £6.79.
I also ordered Genuine Oil, filter, fuel filter and air filter for good measure - Funnily enough these bits from TPS where cheaper than Euro's with a 25% discount!
Anyway, I cracked on...
Cam cover off and visual inspection of Cams again after removing rocker arm -
Looking at Cylinder 3 lobes -
Exhaust -
Inlet -
Anyway, I stopped taking so many pics now and cracked on. I whipped the injectors out and noticed immediately why they are called stretch bolts!! Now I know I reused the injector bolts last weekend when I replaced injector #3, but I knew what I was doing, made sure I didn't over tighten them so not to snap them and immediately ordered a full set of new ones.
Pretty obvious why they are USE ONCE. No idea who was working on the car previously, but they are numpties! Previous owner said it was an independent garage, and had also been looked at by Skoda too!
Reusing the injector bolts, and damaging injector seals. Silicone sealant everywhere too - worrying stuff.
After removing the injectors, I kept finding pieces of silicone around the base of the injectors and in the injector holes!
I made sure to clean the seats as best as I could without a compressor and air line. No damage at all.
I then went to remove the Tandem Pump, and found it was pretty much stuck on! Thats where the silicone was (aswell as the cam cover I removed last weekend)
The battery on my phone then died
I managed to get the pump off easily enough, but it took me 40 minutes with a stanley blade to clean the mating surface on the head, and the back of the pump. I then removed the pulled out the internal fuel rail and cleaned it up, using a piece of hose to blow through the head. I found no end of tiny pieces of silicone everywhere!
I cleaned the injectors and the nozzles, and used fresh engine oil to lube up the bottom before putting the new O-Rings into place. I also poured a tiny bit down into the injector holes too lining the walls. I managed to press them into place with my hands while rotating them left and right. I torqued them up to 3NM and 270° in one hit. New plunger and adjusting bolt too. I then refitted the rocker arm shaft using new bolts - 20NM and 90°. New Tandem gasket and bolts torqued to 20NM. New Fuel Filter and air filter fitted while I was working on it.
And after about 5 minutes of priming and cranking the engine over on and off in 5 second blasts, but with a massive cloud of smoke... I expected it because of the oil in the injector bores. After 20 seconds the smoke disappeared and it purred.
The engine was noticeably quieter too, and had a perfect tick over with no lumps bumps or misfires. haha.
I took some pictures after tidying up this evening of the bolts, gasket and rocker adjusters and plungers.
You can see they have stretched different amounts, and one head is rounded off too. The clamp marks are from my mole grips.
Plungers - All well worn, but notice the one furthest right was so worn the edge had chipped. Excuse the finger nails - bath time in a moment! lol
Adjusters with a lip to the edge and grooves worn into them -
Siliconed gasket!!
We took the car for a spin and it pulls so well! It is immense for a 2.0 diesel engine, and reasonably refined and quiet too. Still a diesely smell coming from the car, but my mate has borrowed it for the week to put some miles on it, and I will see what its like after 100 miles.
I really suggest anyone with a lumpy idle or noisy engine should replace injector seals. They come with the plungers and adjusters too. Mine has done 146k miles, but has FSH and serviced every 10k too, not on longlife and you can see just how worn they are above.
Even if you dont have a misfire, the difference of noise at idle is night and day. I'll try and get a video to compare the earlier one when he pops round tomorrow.
I am now a very happy man. I'd just like to thank everyone who has helped me across the various forums
THANKS!
Tony.
First of all, I had the bits on order from eBay and TPS when I found a post on UK-MK4 forum where a chap said that the injector clamp bolts can stretch over time. I PM'd him for more info and he said that a friend of his is an Ex Master Tech at VW who now owns his own independent garage and he has seen stretched bolts a few times!
Anyway, Got a set of seals - 03G 198 051D - from eBay for £60 delivered from Plymouth Audi (Normally an eye watering £107.33!!). I ordered the rest from TPS -
N10 581 101 - x5 rocker bolt - £5.65 for all
WHT 003 179 - x8 injector bolt - £16.48 for all
03G 145 215 A - tandem pump seal - £6.79.
I also ordered Genuine Oil, filter, fuel filter and air filter for good measure - Funnily enough these bits from TPS where cheaper than Euro's with a 25% discount!
Anyway, I cracked on...
Cam cover off and visual inspection of Cams again after removing rocker arm -
Looking at Cylinder 3 lobes -
Exhaust -
Inlet -
Anyway, I stopped taking so many pics now and cracked on. I whipped the injectors out and noticed immediately why they are called stretch bolts!! Now I know I reused the injector bolts last weekend when I replaced injector #3, but I knew what I was doing, made sure I didn't over tighten them so not to snap them and immediately ordered a full set of new ones.
Pretty obvious why they are USE ONCE. No idea who was working on the car previously, but they are numpties! Previous owner said it was an independent garage, and had also been looked at by Skoda too!
Reusing the injector bolts, and damaging injector seals. Silicone sealant everywhere too - worrying stuff.
After removing the injectors, I kept finding pieces of silicone around the base of the injectors and in the injector holes!
I made sure to clean the seats as best as I could without a compressor and air line. No damage at all.
I then went to remove the Tandem Pump, and found it was pretty much stuck on! Thats where the silicone was (aswell as the cam cover I removed last weekend)
The battery on my phone then died
I managed to get the pump off easily enough, but it took me 40 minutes with a stanley blade to clean the mating surface on the head, and the back of the pump. I then removed the pulled out the internal fuel rail and cleaned it up, using a piece of hose to blow through the head. I found no end of tiny pieces of silicone everywhere!
I cleaned the injectors and the nozzles, and used fresh engine oil to lube up the bottom before putting the new O-Rings into place. I also poured a tiny bit down into the injector holes too lining the walls. I managed to press them into place with my hands while rotating them left and right. I torqued them up to 3NM and 270° in one hit. New plunger and adjusting bolt too. I then refitted the rocker arm shaft using new bolts - 20NM and 90°. New Tandem gasket and bolts torqued to 20NM. New Fuel Filter and air filter fitted while I was working on it.
And after about 5 minutes of priming and cranking the engine over on and off in 5 second blasts, but with a massive cloud of smoke... I expected it because of the oil in the injector bores. After 20 seconds the smoke disappeared and it purred.
The engine was noticeably quieter too, and had a perfect tick over with no lumps bumps or misfires. haha.
I took some pictures after tidying up this evening of the bolts, gasket and rocker adjusters and plungers.
You can see they have stretched different amounts, and one head is rounded off too. The clamp marks are from my mole grips.
Plungers - All well worn, but notice the one furthest right was so worn the edge had chipped. Excuse the finger nails - bath time in a moment! lol
Adjusters with a lip to the edge and grooves worn into them -
Siliconed gasket!!
We took the car for a spin and it pulls so well! It is immense for a 2.0 diesel engine, and reasonably refined and quiet too. Still a diesely smell coming from the car, but my mate has borrowed it for the week to put some miles on it, and I will see what its like after 100 miles.
I really suggest anyone with a lumpy idle or noisy engine should replace injector seals. They come with the plungers and adjusters too. Mine has done 146k miles, but has FSH and serviced every 10k too, not on longlife and you can see just how worn they are above.
Even if you dont have a misfire, the difference of noise at idle is night and day. I'll try and get a video to compare the earlier one when he pops round tomorrow.
I am now a very happy man. I'd just like to thank everyone who has helped me across the various forums
THANKS!
Tony.
I have a weird problem with my 2.0 TDI BKD engine with DSG trans.
The problem is most visible at shutdown where it clatters sometimes with a metal on metal sound. The maximum effect is only after running hot (at least half an our of water being on 90 deg C).
The colder the engine is the better the shutdown. At about 20 deg. C water temp, the shutdown is smooth as butter.
Also, no matter the temperature, the shutdown by testing the brand new pierburg ASV (installed 2 days ago) from VCDS is perfectly smooth every time.
The other part of the problem is at engine starting. It starts very quick (0.5 seconds) but with bang and weird noise like misfiring. Also only when hot. The colder the engine is the better the starting. At 0 deg celsius it starts like a brand new engine.
The injectors have about 40.000 km on them and at idle their corrections on ch 13 are -0.42, 0.55, 0.02, -0.10 (from memory but It's pretty close because I'm watching them obsessively).
The flywheel has about 20.000 km and the driving is as smooth as butter no matter how I drive the car.
Also replaced the big upper left from above engine mount and also another one from below. Don't know them by names. I can provide pictures.
I'm completely lost. Don't know what else I can replace. I just want my startups and shutdowns to be smooth.
The problem is most visible at shutdown where it clatters sometimes with a metal on metal sound. The maximum effect is only after running hot (at least half an our of water being on 90 deg C).
The colder the engine is the better the shutdown. At about 20 deg. C water temp, the shutdown is smooth as butter.
Also, no matter the temperature, the shutdown by testing the brand new pierburg ASV (installed 2 days ago) from VCDS is perfectly smooth every time.
The other part of the problem is at engine starting. It starts very quick (0.5 seconds) but with bang and weird noise like misfiring. Also only when hot. The colder the engine is the better the starting. At 0 deg celsius it starts like a brand new engine.
The injectors have about 40.000 km on them and at idle their corrections on ch 13 are -0.42, 0.55, 0.02, -0.10 (from memory but It's pretty close because I'm watching them obsessively).
The flywheel has about 20.000 km and the driving is as smooth as butter no matter how I drive the car.
Also replaced the big upper left from above engine mount and also another one from below. Don't know them by names. I can provide pictures.
I'm completely lost. Don't know what else I can replace. I just want my startups and shutdowns to be smooth.
Hello again,
The above problem was never figured out. I even replaced the cylinder head as I was losing some coolant and it's still the same. Maybe the injectors are messed up..
What bothers me more now is that I'm still losing coolant even with the new cylinder head and bolts and seal, also with new piston segments.
Weird one..
So I have:
1. Replaced EGR Cooler
2. Replaced Cylinder head
3. Replaced front coolant radiator
Still losing coolant.
I've yet to check oil cooler and DSG cooler (??). Any other place I could check before I just begin to punch my car mindlessly ?
P.S. I've never had coolant in oil or the other way around.
The above problem was never figured out. I even replaced the cylinder head as I was losing some coolant and it's still the same. Maybe the injectors are messed up..
What bothers me more now is that I'm still losing coolant even with the new cylinder head and bolts and seal, also with new piston segments.
Weird one..
So I have:
1. Replaced EGR Cooler
2. Replaced Cylinder head
3. Replaced front coolant radiator
Still losing coolant.
I've yet to check oil cooler and DSG cooler (??). Any other place I could check before I just begin to punch my car mindlessly ?
P.S. I've never had coolant in oil or the other way around.
HEEEEEELP
This is how my car (Golf BKD DSG) starts hot or cold.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uc3UDqHQsus&fe...
Very rough and shaky but fairly fast engine start.
Start better when very cold. At -10 deg Celsius it almost starts normally. Software hot start fix doesn't make any difference. (It's a different issue)
New flywheel made absolutely no difference at all.
Immediately after engine start it runs smooth as new. With windows closed you can't tell that the engine is actually running.
Can it be a bad starter ?
This is how my car (Golf BKD DSG) starts hot or cold.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uc3UDqHQsus&fe...
Very rough and shaky but fairly fast engine start.
Start better when very cold. At -10 deg Celsius it almost starts normally. Software hot start fix doesn't make any difference. (It's a different issue)
New flywheel made absolutely no difference at all.
Immediately after engine start it runs smooth as new. With windows closed you can't tell that the engine is actually running.
Can it be a bad starter ?
Hello all!
VW golf 2.0 gt tdi 2007.
Similar problems to al the rest, I wonder if anyone has any ideas before I break it on ebay>>>
In the two years I have owned my car it has had-tandem pump, injector recall, battery, starter, in tank pump, injector seals,
egr valve/asv.
always started on 2 1/2 cylinders then settled down to 4 within a minute
refused to start two weeks ago, and now starts on tickover with no throttle, only runs on three cylinders, touch the throttle and it dies
Strong fuel smell from exhaust
any help would be much appreciated!
VW golf 2.0 gt tdi 2007.
Similar problems to al the rest, I wonder if anyone has any ideas before I break it on ebay>>>
In the two years I have owned my car it has had-tandem pump, injector recall, battery, starter, in tank pump, injector seals,
egr valve/asv.
always started on 2 1/2 cylinders then settled down to 4 within a minute
refused to start two weeks ago, and now starts on tickover with no throttle, only runs on three cylinders, touch the throttle and it dies
Strong fuel smell from exhaust
any help would be much appreciated!
I have a 2007 Jeep Patriot with a VW BKD 2.0L 16 valve engine in it. The lady that owned it from new did 38,000 miles since new I've done another 11,000 since August )
I bought the car because it had the VW lump in it and no DPF. Apart from brake and suspension parts, the only part it ever had replaced before I got it was the injector wiring loom at 32,000 at a Jeep dealer. Since I bought it I have replaced the turbo (got sick of the howling wolf under the hood), replaced the DMF, clutch and slave cylinder, replaced the tandem pump (leaking from the cover), changed the turbo to intercooler pipe (leak), changed the timing belt, water pump and auxiliary belt at a Jeep dealer. Had the dealer check the injectors (all well within parameters). The car has a full dealer service history and has only ever had VW spec oil in it. I am changing the oil at 5,000 miles instead of 9,000 (VW 507 oil is cheap as chips) It does not use a single drop of oil, no coolant loss, no oil in the diesel, no diesel in the oil. I have the car just about where I want it to be, it drives nice, does 50mpg, goes like a bat out of hell with hardly any turbo lag and has plenty of torque.
However, there is something going on that has me stumped. It rattles. It isn't a loud rattle, sounds a little tappetty and it is driving me nuts. Checked all the pulleys, the alternator, looked for anything loose in the engine bay..... It is related to engine speed (at all revs) not road speed and you can hear it a little more under load. If I take to Jeep, they plug it in and say there's nothing wrong with the car. If I take to VW, they don't want to know because they can't read the ECU it has Jeep software on it. Independent Jeep garages are a waste of time and money.
I'm open to suggestions
)I bought the car because it had the VW lump in it and no DPF. Apart from brake and suspension parts, the only part it ever had replaced before I got it was the injector wiring loom at 32,000 at a Jeep dealer. Since I bought it I have replaced the turbo (got sick of the howling wolf under the hood), replaced the DMF, clutch and slave cylinder, replaced the tandem pump (leaking from the cover), changed the turbo to intercooler pipe (leak), changed the timing belt, water pump and auxiliary belt at a Jeep dealer. Had the dealer check the injectors (all well within parameters). The car has a full dealer service history and has only ever had VW spec oil in it. I am changing the oil at 5,000 miles instead of 9,000 (VW 507 oil is cheap as chips) It does not use a single drop of oil, no coolant loss, no oil in the diesel, no diesel in the oil. I have the car just about where I want it to be, it drives nice, does 50mpg, goes like a bat out of hell with hardly any turbo lag and has plenty of torque.
However, there is something going on that has me stumped. It rattles. It isn't a loud rattle, sounds a little tappetty and it is driving me nuts. Checked all the pulleys, the alternator, looked for anything loose in the engine bay..... It is related to engine speed (at all revs) not road speed and you can hear it a little more under load. If I take to Jeep, they plug it in and say there's nothing wrong with the car. If I take to VW, they don't want to know because they can't read the ECU it has Jeep software on it. Independent Jeep garages are a waste of time and money.
I'm open to suggestions
Edited by SCT on Tuesday 17th March 15:27
Hi Tame Technician I have an audi a6 2.0 tdi Engine code BRE i have a problem with me a6 s line .. i have realized that whenever i am stationary my engine starts to shake slightly an it happens all the time .. the car pulls in every gear perfectly some times it feels like its getting worse but its not the engine only shakes while the car is stationary .. i have heard this an audi trait ? could this be true ? do you have any ideas or anyone ?
Thanks Guys .
I have an audi a6 2.0 tdi Engine code BRE i have a problem with me a6 s line .. i have realized that whenever i am stationary my engine starts to shake slightly an it happens all the time .. the car pulls in every gear perfectly some times it feels like its getting worse but its not the engine only shakes while the car is stationary .. i have heard this an audi trait ? could this be true ? do you have any ideas or anyone ? Thanks Guys .
Rizzya6 said:
Hi Tame Technician I have an audi a6 2.0 tdi Engine code BRE i have a problem with me a6 s line .. i have realized that whenever i am stationary my engine starts to shake slightly an it happens all the time .. the car pulls in every gear perfectly some times it feels like its getting worse but its not the engine only shakes while the car is stationary .. i have heard this an audi trait ? could this be true ? do you have any ideas or anyone ?
Thanks Guys .
Engine mount? I have an audi a6 2.0 tdi Engine code BRE i have a problem with me a6 s line .. i have realized that whenever i am stationary my engine starts to shake slightly an it happens all the time .. the car pulls in every gear perfectly some times it feels like its getting worse but its not the engine only shakes while the car is stationary .. i have heard this an audi trait ? could this be true ? do you have any ideas or anyone ? Thanks Guys .
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