Yes that's right, I'm running 555 torque, but had the same problem at 500 when the first clutch failed, the state of the clutch is what's so surprising, it's completely wrecked.

Thanks for the support guys hopefully can get it all sorted in time for Rockingham, will keep you posted on the outcome.

Two quick thoughts:

1. Did you break in your clutch before you started running full power through it? Clutches won't hold their full rated power until the friction surfaces mate to the plates they press against. And, in my experience, it doesn't take much to glaze the clutch linings - once they glaze, they won't hold full power and will only start slipping more and more...

2. Bell housing ventilation is a good idea, but be very careful where you put the holes if you vent the top of the bell housing - don't put them somewhere where a fluid spillage (like coolant) can drip into the hole and contaminate the clutch lining...

Finaly got the report back from Helix, they said the clutch had not been over heating and the wear was due to being over the limit of torque the clutch can handle. They also thought that driving onto a car trailer will also wear the clutch in no time,
even driving in traffic will cause to much slip and cause it to wear out fast. Apparantly they are in the process of designing a new one that can take more power?
Well I have gone a new way and had one made bespoke, twin plate clutch made from better materials that can take a lot more power and still be drivable on the road and in traffic, which means I have a new Helix 5 paddle clutch and light weight flywheel if anyone is looking.

When the race car had those symptoms it was because the cover bolts had come loose and were scraping the bell housing

Sssht. Are you losing any engine oil ?

Graham personally I would get it trailered back even if it still drives, it sounds so much like my first prob, hopefully nothing to serious for you, but at lest it will cause no further damage, Huge pain in the arse but prob the cheapest option in the end.

Have you still got boost?

I just got a 6 paddle clutch from Helix. Told them it had to withstand 550ft lb and they said it wouldnt be a problem. Im not planning on going anywhere near that torque figure for a while, but hopefully it will last.


Since a few people have mentioned breaking in a new clutch.. Any tips on how its done? Ive always driven normally after a clutch change and had no problems.

The cerametalic paddle clutch is the top one, rated to 550lb/ft, 4,5 or 6 paddles they are all rated to the same.

Hi graham hope the car is holding up? They thought it was 550 but it was never tested, after our long conversation , and after there inspection, they have said the wear factor is due to torque overload, if they really were confident in it they would not bother designing a new one to handle the same power, IMO we have been the guinea pigs and have shown its not suitable for our type of power.

They told me the only difference was the 6 paddle would handle slow driving in traffic better and would have a longer life because of more material and was what they recommended to me doing about half road half trackday

That's what they told me, they also added the point that the more paddles the more heat it creates .

How's things with yours Graham?

Just a thought, could it be the oil pump? not getting enough oil into the engine, so making more noise and lower oil pressures?

Likewise why would the clutch or gearbox affect the oil pressure? before my car went back it had shot the clutch and gearbox but was running fine engine wise.

On idle my oil pressure is never been much more than 10 when hot and around 50 to 60 when on throttle think that's normal for these cars.

Maybe there is a couple of problems? good luck with it mate soon be back as bad as ever.

That's what happened to mine, the main bearings had broke, I thought Graham had the uprated ones? or are they not holding either?