Any Paint Experts in the House?
Discussion
jeff666 said:
I have used both products,
Not really had a problem with either of them, just follow the TDS.
I do however prefer solvent over WB. What is your issue ?
If a car has had a bare metal repaint, and a windscreen is bonded to that fresh paint (long after bake/cure etc) something in the adhesive is attacking the paint/clear coat/bond and it lifts off. You never got this issue with solvent. Not really had a problem with either of them, just follow the TDS.
I do however prefer solvent over WB. What is your issue ?
The painters I have worked with have paid extra attention to prep and we are satisfied that it is not a factor. It's something in the PUR and adhesion promoter.
We are now trying other methods.
Interestingly, a new bodyshell from Porsche comes with a masked line/area where the PUR goes which makes the acknowledgment that the e-coat is the best substrate?
You might do better posting on spray painters group on Facebook.
Personally I've never experienced or heard of anyone else experiencing this issue.I was always solvent but I've got friends in bodyshops that are primarily water, and they've never mentioned having a problem.
I've also used a few screen fitters and none have ever asked what paint I've used
Personally I've never experienced or heard of anyone else experiencing this issue.I was always solvent but I've got friends in bodyshops that are primarily water, and they've never mentioned having a problem.
I've also used a few screen fitters and none have ever asked what paint I've used
Some examples:
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CoDMH4WIHZ3/?utm_so...
https://www.instagram.com/p/CHXu46OF6Cf/?utm_sourc...
I don't know all the bodyshops, but one I do know of one as they are used by a well known Porsche indy.
Much of what you see here can be attributed to bad, or insufficient prep, but I've put a screen in after a bare metal repaint and about a year later the owner needed the windscreen replaced after it cracked from a stone strike. The same happened: paint peeled off with the polyurethane adhesive.
I think it's significant that some cars (especially Porsche) are not painted on the windscreen bond line. The e-coat is left exposed. Other cars don't do this. Could it be something to do with galvanised metal? If you dip or blast a galvanised metal car, what happens to that substrate when you repaint it?
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CoDMH4WIHZ3/?utm_so...
https://www.instagram.com/p/CHXu46OF6Cf/?utm_sourc...
I don't know all the bodyshops, but one I do know of one as they are used by a well known Porsche indy.
Much of what you see here can be attributed to bad, or insufficient prep, but I've put a screen in after a bare metal repaint and about a year later the owner needed the windscreen replaced after it cracked from a stone strike. The same happened: paint peeled off with the polyurethane adhesive.
I think it's significant that some cars (especially Porsche) are not painted on the windscreen bond line. The e-coat is left exposed. Other cars don't do this. Could it be something to do with galvanised metal? If you dip or blast a galvanised metal car, what happens to that substrate when you repaint it?
Looks like bad prep to me,shell gets primed,all outer areas get a good sanding/keying but the areas that won't get seen after refit,like the screen lips,just get a light scotch or nothing at all.
Top coats go on,screen gets fitted and all is well...... until someone comes along and removes the screen and the top coat comes away with the pu sealer
Top coats go on,screen gets fitted and all is well...... until someone comes along and removes the screen and the top coat comes away with the pu sealer
Bad prep or adhesion issues between the surface or the layers of different paint materials (primer, base coat, clear coat).
Certain bare surfaces - in particular galvanised & aluminium - really need a primer specifically recommended by the paint manufacturer for those surfaces or problems will occur.
No reason why the same primers can't be used on steel & many primers do cover the whole range.
Certain bare surfaces - in particular galvanised & aluminium - really need a primer specifically recommended by the paint manufacturer for those surfaces or problems will occur.
No reason why the same primers can't be used on steel & many primers do cover the whole range.
paintman said:
Bad prep or adhesion issues between the surface or the layers of different paint materials (primer, base coat, clear coat).
Certain bare surfaces - in particular galvanised & aluminium - really need a primer specifically recommended by the paint manufacturer for those surfaces or problems will occur.
No reason why the same primers can't be used on steel & many primers do cover the whole range.
Epoxy primer adheres to any bare substrate, it's what any decent restorer would useCertain bare surfaces - in particular galvanised & aluminium - really need a primer specifically recommended by the paint manufacturer for those surfaces or problems will occur.
No reason why the same primers can't be used on steel & many primers do cover the whole range.
Bluevanman said:
Glassman said:
I fit windscreens for a living.
And ?If that's screen adhesive how come it's body colour?
I could be wrong as you would usually clean the screen adhesive back to bare before painting.
jeff666 said:
I'm guessing old screen cut out then paintwork done hence not seeing the cut marks,
I could be wrong as you would usually clean the screen adhesive back to bare before painting.
You said it was a shell from the factory,not one that had been repainted.I could be wrong as you would usually clean the screen adhesive back to bare before painting.
Yes you would expect the bodyshop to remove that before painting.
From my experience it's usually a bugger to remove,it adheres that well it I've ended up grinding it off ......not done any 911's mind.
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