Ford TDCi Stalling/Cutting out
Discussion
Can anyone help? Have others suffered from their Mondeo TDCi (130 euro 4) cutting out at junctions or other critical times? My 2004 Zetec has this problem from new. It is currently having a new ECU, upgraded software load and turbo bearings, hope this fixes what is a very dangerious problem. Thanks
Dave FOrd said:
Can anyone help? Have others suffered from their Mondeo TDCi (130 euro 4) cutting out at junctions or other critical times? My 2004 Zetec has this problem from new. It is currently having a new ECU, upgraded software load and turbo bearings, hope this fixes what is a very dangerious problem. Thanks
The turbo is not a servicable item, so i'm not sure what you mean about turbo bearings.
There are serious health and safety concerns with TDCi systems not to mention the potential for engine damage, I'd suggest you let a dealer or diesel repair agent carry out the diagnostics,
If the MIL has been on during any of the faults, it will have created a trouble code which will highlight the area of concern. Without that information it's very difficult to suggest a cause of the fault.
Had a few that have been cured by uploading latest software.
One thing a lot of people don't realise is, on the Ford common rail system, the throttle pedal doesn't 'work' unless the engine is running at 750rpm or more, I think the term is 'idle clip'
So, you get the scenario of, letting the clutch up.. engine bogs down to say 700rpm, you try to catch it with the throttle and it stalls anyway.
One thing a lot of people don't realise is, on the Ford common rail system, the throttle pedal doesn't 'work' unless the engine is running at 750rpm or more, I think the term is 'idle clip'
So, you get the scenario of, letting the clutch up.. engine bogs down to say 700rpm, you try to catch it with the throttle and it stalls anyway.
feistyb said:
took in for investigation and there is nothing Ford can do.
I can't accept that m8, if the MIL has been flashing at the time of the concern the PCM will have recorded a DTC
The dealer should have been able to act upon that trouble code and proceed with a repair.
Unfortunately, the TDCi system is very complex and without the diagnostic codes it's almost impossible to put a cause to the concern. The system will always reduce power then cut the engine as the light flashes so the visual symptoms are the same be it a failure of the high pressure pump or the throttle switches.
Go back to the dealer and get them to pull their fingers from out of their @$$es
There are many discussions and potential solutions to this issue. Check out www.fordmondeo.org for more details.
Hi,
I've got exactly the same problem with a 2004 Focus 115 TDCi. 55K miles on the clock, ffsh. The problem first started the day after I got it back from a service.
- So, you're driving along, the glow plug light comes on, the rev needle swings up and down for a second and the engine cuts out.
- Very dangerous if on the motorway or a roundabout
- Ford have had the car on 3 occasions but can't find a fault
- Initially, they did change the cam sensor and charged me over £100 for the privilege. It made no difference
- When a diags computer is plugged in, the computer does not show a fault
- A RAC guy (who used to work for Ford), said it could be one of: cam belt sensor (done), a tiny hole in one of the injector pipes, water in the fuel system
- I've had a quote of £450 to change all the injector leads, but told it might not cure the problem
- its the worst type of fault as it is intermittent. Sometimes it wont happen for weeks, and then will for days in a row.
Needless to say, Ford have been about as useful as a chocolate watch!! I'm not a happy bunny - I can't sell the car on as thats unethical, and I can't use it for my kids as thats unsafe.
Can anyone please help?
Many thanks
Z
I've got exactly the same problem with a 2004 Focus 115 TDCi. 55K miles on the clock, ffsh. The problem first started the day after I got it back from a service.
- So, you're driving along, the glow plug light comes on, the rev needle swings up and down for a second and the engine cuts out.
- Very dangerous if on the motorway or a roundabout
- Ford have had the car on 3 occasions but can't find a fault
- Initially, they did change the cam sensor and charged me over £100 for the privilege. It made no difference
- When a diags computer is plugged in, the computer does not show a fault
- A RAC guy (who used to work for Ford), said it could be one of: cam belt sensor (done), a tiny hole in one of the injector pipes, water in the fuel system
- I've had a quote of £450 to change all the injector leads, but told it might not cure the problem
- its the worst type of fault as it is intermittent. Sometimes it wont happen for weeks, and then will for days in a row.
Needless to say, Ford have been about as useful as a chocolate watch!! I'm not a happy bunny - I can't sell the car on as thats unethical, and I can't use it for my kids as thats unsafe.
Can anyone please help?
Many thanks
Z
Hi guys, Ive recently bought a 2004 Transit connect which had the glow plug light flashing senario I was at my nephews garage having fitted a rear wheel cylinder and an AA guy had just brought in a car tha the had recovered , so I thought "Bingo" I will ask the AA man he said straight away "Its the fuel solenoid" Its located on the top right of the pump as you look from the top, £125 from Ford !!! It remains to be seen though as it broke down last night completely gave up the ghost on a dark country lane 7 miles from home at midnight and it was bloody baltic!!
Hi I have a 54 reg 1.8 tdci ford focus which had the cutting out problem with the glow plug light flashing. Now my trouble started not long after i had my DMF changed. ( Have fun if u haven't already.)
Now what would cause mine to cut out or go into safe made where the car has next to no power and wont rev past roughly 3 grand. I had it on the diagnostic machine at my friends garage and it came up with 3 faults which where MAF sensor, crank sensor and fuel pump malfuntion. When I first seen that mainly the later one i thought it was brown trousers time, but we had a good look at the car and found out that it was actually none of the above, it was actually the breather pipes tht run along the top of the engine getting caught between the turbo pipe from intercooler and from the tilt of the engine under acceleration, im not saying this is your problem but its definately worth a look. Mine are now cable tied out of the way to prevent this happening again. It seems you cant follow diagnostic to the letter it only indicates the area of trouble.
Now what would cause mine to cut out or go into safe made where the car has next to no power and wont rev past roughly 3 grand. I had it on the diagnostic machine at my friends garage and it came up with 3 faults which where MAF sensor, crank sensor and fuel pump malfuntion. When I first seen that mainly the later one i thought it was brown trousers time, but we had a good look at the car and found out that it was actually none of the above, it was actually the breather pipes tht run along the top of the engine getting caught between the turbo pipe from intercooler and from the tilt of the engine under acceleration, im not saying this is your problem but its definately worth a look. Mine are now cable tied out of the way to prevent this happening again. It seems you cant follow diagnostic to the letter it only indicates the area of trouble.
I used to have this problem on my 54 plate 130 TDCi. Although I put it down to me having the car chipped?!
One thing I did notice, is that it mainly happened on mine when it was cold and it seemed to stall (which I couldnt do much about as it was an auto). It seemed to be because it couldnt keep enough revs...which I believe someone else mentioned (re 700 revs).
One thing I did notice, is that it mainly happened on mine when it was cold and it seemed to stall (which I couldnt do much about as it was an auto). It seemed to be because it couldnt keep enough revs...which I believe someone else mentioned (re 700 revs).
had this problem cutting out, it was an intermittent crank sensor. it senses when to inject the fuel, if its wrong it can cut out. try changing this first cause its cheaper than doing the turbo/ecu etc
i just joined piston heads to tell u this, save some cash like, hope it helps
bye forever
i just joined piston heads to tell u this, save some cash like, hope it helps
bye forever
Easy to follow instructions for changing the cam position sensor are at:
http://www.pc-point.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&...
http://www.pc-point.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&...
My Tdci was cutting out at around 65mph. Took it to my local garage ( not a dealer ). It came up with a fuel pump fault and they advised that the fuel pump would need to be sent to a specialist who would then let me know the cost of repair. This was due to take a week. However, when they were removing the fuel pump they noticed a diesel leak from one of the pipes into the pump. The connection was tightened and the car has been running perfectly for the last week. Still set me back £100 though.
I have just bought a Ford Mondeo TDCi 52 plate (2003) 130bhp. It was an ex-taxi so I got it for just £900. At the time of sale I was made aware of the cutting out problem, and advised that a mechanic reckoned that the EGR valve needed replacing.
After trawling through endless forums, I decided to replace the Camshaft Sensor (my car had the old black one, replaced it with new grey one from Motor Parts Direct). I then decided to blank the EGR valve - I was getting lots of black smoke from low revs - rather than replace it, I had it cleaned then blanked it.
Blanking the EGR has done wonders to the performance, plus I only get smoke on start up, and when near the red line in 3rd. So that's one problem sorted.
On the test drive after blanking the EGR, the car cut out again at 65mph in 5th gear. What am I missing that needs replacing and checking?
As for the glow plugs, one of them is currently snapped, so they haven't been changed in a while. It's difficult to start the car, but drives fine once you've revved enough to get all the pistons going.
Is the car dying on me an injector issue?
After trawling through endless forums, I decided to replace the Camshaft Sensor (my car had the old black one, replaced it with new grey one from Motor Parts Direct). I then decided to blank the EGR valve - I was getting lots of black smoke from low revs - rather than replace it, I had it cleaned then blanked it.
Blanking the EGR has done wonders to the performance, plus I only get smoke on start up, and when near the red line in 3rd. So that's one problem sorted.
On the test drive after blanking the EGR, the car cut out again at 65mph in 5th gear. What am I missing that needs replacing and checking?
As for the glow plugs, one of them is currently snapped, so they haven't been changed in a while. It's difficult to start the car, but drives fine once you've revved enough to get all the pistons going.
Is the car dying on me an injector issue?
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