UJ Replacement
Discussion
I have only done this once myself but I would say you have to remove the drive shaft from the car. You have to press or punch the ujs out which would be difficult in situ, it was hard enough to do off the car.
It is not particularly difficult to remove the shafts, you will need a big socket for the hub end of the shaft (size anyone?) and a long bar to be able to undo it. Just make sure you do not lose or mix up the shims. We had to unbolt the tie bar from the hub but did not have to remove the A frame to hub bolts.
It is not particularly difficult to remove the shafts, you will need a big socket for the hub end of the shaft (size anyone?) and a long bar to be able to undo it. Just make sure you do not lose or mix up the shims. We had to unbolt the tie bar from the hub but did not have to remove the A frame to hub bolts.
Ummm Only did the prop UJ myself, did this off the car and it took 4 tons on the hydraulic press to get them out.
And 3 Ton to put them in.
I would not take the big hub nut off, would just take the shaft of and the whole hub.
If your local you can pop over and use the press if you want.
And 3 Ton to put them in.
I would not take the big hub nut off, would just take the shaft of and the whole hub.
If your local you can pop over and use the press if you want.
I've done the outer one (which tends to go first due to moisture penetration) on the car, but with trailing arm, might be trickier with A-frame.
You need to follow these hints:
1. When you remove the circlips, go around all the inside edges of the bearing yoke and remove all the surface rust, then lube it all up, it'll be much easier to press it out.
2. undo the bottom link (trailing arm) or enough of the A-frame bots to loosen the suspension, probably the shock too (leave the spring on it).
3. undo the 4 bolts holding the driveshaft onto the disc
4. when the bearing is out make sure the new UJ goes in relatively easily by offering up the cups - sand off any surface rust preventing this.
It should now be loose enough to split off the outer UJ.
Once this is off you can do the inner one (if needed).
You need to follow these hints:
1. When you remove the circlips, go around all the inside edges of the bearing yoke and remove all the surface rust, then lube it all up, it'll be much easier to press it out.
2. undo the bottom link (trailing arm) or enough of the A-frame bots to loosen the suspension, probably the shock too (leave the spring on it).
3. undo the 4 bolts holding the driveshaft onto the disc
4. when the bearing is out make sure the new UJ goes in relatively easily by offering up the cups - sand off any surface rust preventing this.
It should now be loose enough to split off the outer UJ.
Once this is off you can do the inner one (if needed).
Replaced the outer rear drive shaft uj on 400SE today. Thanks for info from forum.
UJ was Hardy Spicer HS179 obtained from local motor factors.
UJ was replaced in situ on car by
1. Jacking rear of car and placing on axle stands
2. Remove rear wheel
3. removal UJ cir clips
4. push our old UJ
5. Re assembly - reverse of above.
None of the suspension or drive shaft needed to be dismantled.
Hope this helps anyone else needing to do this.
If the inner UJ needs replacing at the same time as outer after step 4. the 4 bolts holding the drive shaft to the UJ could have been removed to allow the drive shaft to be taken out for inner UJ replacement.
J400BBW is now back on the roads in Essex with new MOT.
UJ was Hardy Spicer HS179 obtained from local motor factors.
UJ was replaced in situ on car by
1. Jacking rear of car and placing on axle stands
2. Remove rear wheel
3. removal UJ cir clips
4. push our old UJ
5. Re assembly - reverse of above.
None of the suspension or drive shaft needed to be dismantled.
Hope this helps anyone else needing to do this.
If the inner UJ needs replacing at the same time as outer after step 4. the 4 bolts holding the drive shaft to the UJ could have been removed to allow the drive shaft to be taken out for inner UJ replacement.
J400BBW is now back on the roads in Essex with new MOT.
Took driveshafts off the wedge to replace them.
And it needed quite some perseverence to get the old universal joints out and the same to put the new ones in. Couldn't have done this while the shafts would be on the car (without damaging something in the process).
Left the hub nut in place. Only the additional weight of the bearing carrier was a bit awkward, but nothing to worry about (during and afterwards).
Rob
And it needed quite some perseverence to get the old universal joints out and the same to put the new ones in. Couldn't have done this while the shafts would be on the car (without damaging something in the process).
Left the hub nut in place. Only the additional weight of the bearing carrier was a bit awkward, but nothing to worry about (during and afterwards).
Rob
350zwelgje said:
Took driveshafts off the wedge to replace them.
And it needed quite some perseverence to get the old universal joints out and the same to put the new ones in. Couldn't have done this while the shafts would be on the car (without damaging something in the process).
Left the hub nut in place. Only the additional weight of the bearing carrier was a bit awkward, but nothing to worry about (during and afterwards).
Rob
Same here the propshaft UJ's took 4 Ton on the press before they came out.And it needed quite some perseverence to get the old universal joints out and the same to put the new ones in. Couldn't have done this while the shafts would be on the car (without damaging something in the process).
Left the hub nut in place. Only the additional weight of the bearing carrier was a bit awkward, but nothing to worry about (during and afterwards).
Rob
TVRleigh_BBWR said:
How do you manage to push them out so easy.
Maybe I was just lucky!Turned drive shaft so outer yoke was vertical. Cut and removed UJ rubber seals. Used socked and mallet to drive bearing cap through yoke (will not go all the way as UJ fowls on yoke). Turn drive shaft 180 degrees, drive UJ using steel rod and mallet to push cap outwards through yoke. Pull out needle rollers. The UJ can then be positioned so that it pushes on the edge of the bearing cap to drive it out completely.
The drive shaft can then be pushed sideways out of the outer yoke. Place drive shaft on 3x3 timber located on top of A frame. Using hammer, hit UJ to drive out remaining 2 cups.
Hope that all makes sense.
I have never come accros drive shaft UJ's that could not be driven out using a socket and mallet. Prop shaft UJ's have been known to use a little more persausion though.
ferlin said:
Does anyone know the diameters of the yokes on the universal joints please
350i = hardy spicer HS 166
400 = hardy spicer HS 179
I have a 350i and just want to make sure that I have HS166 and get the right size replacement
HS166: 27mm x 81.80mm350i = hardy spicer HS 166
400 = hardy spicer HS 179
I have a 350i and just want to make sure that I have HS166 and get the right size replacement
HS179: 30.20mm x 106.33mm
These specs are from the GKN / Hardy Spicer catalogue, not just my measurements.
7.
Number 7 said:
ferlin said:
Does anyone know the diameters of the yokes on the universal joints please
350i = hardy spicer HS 166
400 = hardy spicer HS 179
I have a 350i and just want to make sure that I have HS166 and get the right size replacement
HS166: 27mm x 81.80mm350i = hardy spicer HS 166
400 = hardy spicer HS 179
I have a 350i and just want to make sure that I have HS166 and get the right size replacement
HS179: 30.20mm x 106.33mm
These specs are from the GKN / Hardy Spicer catalogue, not just my measurements.
7.
Rob
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