Fuel Pump not priming - not the inertia switch
Fuel Pump not priming - not the inertia switch
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KennyAbarth

Original Poster:

1,598 posts

271 months

Saturday 15th June 2013
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My old man's Chimaera hasnt been started for a while so went to start it today. It wouldn't start as the fuel pump won't prime. As soon as I turned the ignition on I noticed that I couldn't hear that the noticable whine of the pump priming. I've checked the inertia switch and it's in the correct position. I think the fuse for the fuel pump is ok, and the relay beside the battery seems to be fine. Ended up having the AA out, and they couldn't find it. Might need to get it taken to the boys at Xworks.

It's been parked in the Garage and was driven in, so I'm a bit perplexed as to what could have gone wrong while parked in there. The car has been on charge so the battery is fine, and the starter turns over with no problems. Just no fuel pump priming - so no starty...

I was hoping someone might have some suggestions, perhaps some kind of immobiliser issue?

Discopotatoes

4,101 posts

247 months

Saturday 15th June 2013
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Sound like immobiliser have you tried the imobiliser key as well as the remote button?

KennyAbarth

Original Poster:

1,598 posts

271 months

Saturday 15th June 2013
quotequote all
Discopotatoes said:
Sound like immobiliser have you tried the imobiliser key as well as the remote button?
It's a 94 Chimaera with a Toad alarm, and no remote button. Only a Toad fob which activates / deactivates the alarm and immobiliser when locking/unlocking the car. The alarm deactivates ok, not sure whether immobiliser is or not.

Aussie John

1,021 posts

257 months

Sunday 16th June 2013
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Sounds like the pump relay or fuse; maybe stick 12v straight on the pump to check it.

ewan221

1,219 posts

212 months

Sunday 16th June 2013
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check the connections to fuel pump, mine meeded good clean up and then all was well :-)

Oldred_V8S

3,764 posts

264 months

Sunday 16th June 2013
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Aussie John said:
Sounds like the pump relay or fuse; maybe stick 12v straight on the pump to check it.
Or the main ECU relay which is in the circuit to the fuel pump relay. If you cannot hear the idle control valve cycling when you turn the ignition on and off then it is most likely this.

KennyAbarth

Original Poster:

1,598 posts

271 months

Sunday 16th June 2013
quotequote all
Oldred_V8S said:
Or the main ECU relay which is in the circuit to the fuel pump relay. If you cannot hear the idle control valve cycling when you turn the ignition on and off then it is most likely this.
It that the funny sound from the front you hear when turning the ignition off?

Any of the relays that can be accessed from the footwell seem fine. The ECU and fuel pump relays are ok. It just seems that there is something I cant access that is causing the problem. That's why I'm thinking immobiliser fuel pump relay.

RedGriff61

6 posts

171 months

Sunday 16th June 2013
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Have you checked the connections to the fuel pump ?, ive just had the same problem turned out that the connections were loose and corroded.

Edited by RedGriff61 on Sunday 16th June 11:51

KennyAbarth

Original Poster:

1,598 posts

271 months

Sunday 16th June 2013
quotequote all
RedGriff61 said:
Have you checked the connections to the fuel pump ?, ive just had the same problem turned out that the connections were loose and corroded.

Edited by RedGriff61 on Sunday 16th June 11:51
Yes,connections seem ok. Have also now put 12v across pump and it runs happily. So pumps is ok.

I tested the connections from the fuse, then the relay to the pump and they are fine too. What I did notice was that there is no change in signals at the relay connector whether ignition is on or off. So it doesn't look like the relay is getting any signal to power the pump.

jamienshelly

1,826 posts

164 months

Sunday 16th June 2013
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Is the earth ok at the pump?.

KennyAbarth

Original Poster:

1,598 posts

271 months

Sunday 16th June 2013
quotequote all
jamienshelly said:
Is the earth ok at the pump?.
Yes it's good, tested that while getting ready to run the pump.

I have a horrible feeling I'm going to have to take the dash off the check the immobiliser relays.

EGB

1,774 posts

183 months

Sunday 16th June 2013
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A common trick on a Chim is to bang the top of the dash hard and hope pump works.

KennyAbarth

Original Poster:

1,598 posts

271 months

Sunday 16th June 2013
quotequote all
EGB said:
A common trick on a Chim is to bang the top of the dash hard and hope pump works.
I'd found this when I looked about last night. This morning there was much banging and much hoping going on in the TVR, all to no avail.

I'm a bit stumped at the moment, going to call Xworks tomorrow and get their advice.

Aussie John

1,021 posts

257 months

Sunday 16th June 2013
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Mine had a pump fuse on the loose wiring near the relays, worth a look.

KennyAbarth

Original Poster:

1,598 posts

271 months

Sunday 16th June 2013
quotequote all
Aussie John said:
Mine had a pump fuse on the loose wiring near the relays, worth a look.
I know the one, after looking in the Bible I found it and checked it and it's fine. Every from the fuel pump relay to the pump seems fine, as does the inertia switch. It seems to be further up the chain, thats why I'm thinking immobiliser.

I seem to have picked up some sort of electrical jinx though. Bike headlights failed while on way through to Edinburgh tonight as it was getting dark, looks like a fuse there though and whatever the cause is at least reasonably easy to fix.


Oldred_V8S

3,764 posts

264 months

Tuesday 18th June 2013
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KennyAbarth said:
Oldred_V8S said:
Or the main ECU relay which is in the circuit to the fuel pump relay. If you cannot hear the idle control valve cycling when you turn the ignition on and off then it is most likely this.
It that the funny sound from the front you hear when turning the ignition off?

Any of the relays that can be accessed from the footwell seem fine. The ECU and fuel pump relays are ok. It just seems that there is something I cant access that is causing the problem. That's why I'm thinking immobiliser fuel pump relay.
Yes that is the one.

Peter66

119 posts

234 months

Wednesday 19th June 2013
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You might have the earlier (Pre-cat) layout that uses a 3d relay to power the fuel pump before the inertia switch circuit. It's on the fuse board and used by the immobilizer to cut out when it's alarmed. Mine was bypassed, because the immobilizer relay didn't ground this relay properly.

Hope this helps,

Peter

KennyAbarth

Original Poster:

1,598 posts

271 months

Wednesday 19th June 2013
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I dont think there was a third relay on the fuse board when we looked.

It's gone up to Callander to be looked at by Dreadnaught, it's beyond my ability to find the problem and I'd like to get it working soon. Then it just needs Supaguard over the new paint job and it's ready to go!

chris1972

3,597 posts

163 months

Wednesday 19th June 2013
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KennyAbarth said:
It that the funny sound from the front you hear when turning the ignition off?

Any of the relays that can be accessed from the footwell seem fine. The ECU and fuel pump relays are ok. It just seems that there is something I cant access that is causing the problem. That's why I'm thinking immobiliser fuel pump relay.
Have you tried swapping the two relays around on the umbilical cord in the footwell? They're the same, so should work either way; however, if your fuel pump primes after swapping, you have your answer. A two minute test to completely rule it out before moving on to the more expensive immobiliser issue.

Oldred_V8S

3,764 posts

264 months

Wednesday 19th June 2013
quotequote all
chris1972 said:
KennyAbarth said:
It that the funny sound from the front you hear when turning the ignition off?

Any of the relays that can be accessed from the footwell seem fine. The ECU and fuel pump relays are ok. It just seems that there is something I cant access that is causing the problem. That's why I'm thinking immobiliser fuel pump relay.
Have you tried swapping the two 30A relays around? They're the same, so should work either way; however, if your fuel pump primes after swapping, you have your answer. A two minute test to completely rule it out before moving on to the more expensive immobiliser issue.
This will not work, the two are interlinked.