My Cerbera repair/engine rebuild etc.
Discussion
If you mean the wire on mine it was real easy, quicker than I thought. The wire ran above the fuel tank into the fusebox. It's just a standard spade type connector. I had some lying around so I just crimped it onto some fat wire and ran it. And I ran a fatter wire for the earth too.
On my car, the wire goes:
Pump > Fuel Cutoff switch > Immobiliser > Fuse box.
I had trouble this year with the FC switch connector not being firmly connected, causing the pump not to prime.
On my car, the wire goes:
Pump > Fuel Cutoff switch > Immobiliser > Fuse box.
I had trouble this year with the FC switch connector not being firmly connected, causing the pump not to prime.
ukkid35 said:
DuncanM said:
On my car, the wire goes:
Pump > Fuel Cutoff switch > Immobiliser > Fuse box.
I had trouble this year with the FC switch connector not being firmly connected, causing the pump not to prime.
Thanks - Sounds like a job for a helper relay in between the Pump and Fuel CutoffPump > Fuel Cutoff switch > Immobiliser > Fuse box.
I had trouble this year with the FC switch connector not being firmly connected, causing the pump not to prime.
Be very careful with the water pump impellers, they are absurdly expensive
Also, be careful when fitting the new ceramic seals, I chipped one somehow, and that caused quite a delay because I didn't have a spare
If you fit a new aux shaft, then you will also need a new steering pump coupler
Finally, never let a fragment of broken pressure relief valve spring get sucked in to the oil pump, or you will be in for a world of pain
Also, be careful when fitting the new ceramic seals, I chipped one somehow, and that caused quite a delay because I didn't have a spare
If you fit a new aux shaft, then you will also need a new steering pump coupler
Finally, never let a fragment of broken pressure relief valve spring get sucked in to the oil pump, or you will be in for a world of pain
Check this area carefully (See red arrow).
If it's pitted? obviously the seal won't work, a tell tale sign of the seal/shaft failing is oil dripping from the little 'D' shaped orifice where the water pump and oil pump housing meet.
I know every situation is different, you know those jobs that should take 5 mins but end up taking hours just to add my impellors were quite easy to remove, slightly heated and they came off real easy.
If it's pitted? obviously the seal won't work, a tell tale sign of the seal/shaft failing is oil dripping from the little 'D' shaped orifice where the water pump and oil pump housing meet.
I know every situation is different, you know those jobs that should take 5 mins but end up taking hours just to add my impellors were quite easy to remove, slightly heated and they came off real easy.
Edited by Rufus Roughcut on Saturday 13th May 09:26
mrniceguy351 said:
I am a bit concerned about the orientation of your Tilton slave, though - the feed hose should really enter at the bottom and the bleed line exit from the top. I would use the bolt at the 11 o'clock position for the retaining pin rather than the one at 8 o'clock that you've used. My 4 bolts are horizontal and vertical (NW, NE, SE and SW) so I used the NW bolt which aligned the hoses perfectly vertically. It doesn't matter if it's not exactly vertical of course but I worry that, as you have it mounted, the fluid will just flow straight across and out again when you try to bleed it. I'm not sure how this will work with the holes you've made for the hoses though, you might need to make another one .
I would also keep the starter shim if it had it fitted before, without it the gears don't always mesh properly.
Edited by FarmyardPants on Sunday 31st March 12:31
Yeah I found a replacement solenoid on eBay, hopefully it will work.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281460072850?mkcid=16&...
I will put my thinking cap on about the slave orientation.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281460072850?mkcid=16&...
I will put my thinking cap on about the slave orientation.
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