The 3D Printer Thread

I agree you shouldn't be doing homing or ABL with a cold bed, when I was still using Marlin this was my start Gcode from a a few pages back (the homing was one I used to do with a cold bed, I was wrong, I have changed this below)

G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
M104 S{material_standby_temperature} ; Start heating up the nozzle most of the way
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Start heating the bed, wait until target temperature reached
G28 ; Home all axes
G29 ;Auto Bed Level
G1 F600 Z5 ;Move the nozzle up
G1 F6000 X0 Y0 ;Move to the left front corner
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Finish heating the nozzle
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish

I would also leave out the below start gcode, these should be configured on the printer once and can be adjusted as and when

M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration
M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate
M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration

I would leave out Jerk as MOST printers will ignore this anyway

M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ;Setup Jerk

As long as the feed and flow rates are set in the slicer again you shouldn't need to reset this every time as the gcode for the print will contain that. Feed and flow rates should be calculated per filament and can change even between roles of the same colour filament but generally more between say PLA or PETG.

M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate
M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate

Distilling your gcode it could look something like this:

M190 S{material_bed_temperature} ; start heating the bed to what is set in Cura and WAIT (UNTIL THE TEMP IS REACHED an important distinction in machine code)

G28 ;Home
G29 ;ABL

M109 S{material_print_temperature} T0 ; start heating hotend to what is set in Cura and WAIT


G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position
G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line
G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little
G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 E-2 F1800 ;retract 2mm at 30mm/s
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 E1.8 F1800 ;retract 2mm at 30mm/s


Don't forget to do your temp and retraction towers, again this should be done every time you change filaments (obviously once you have a known good figure for that roll there isn't a need to do it every time you change back to it, I note them on the side of the spool)

Oh and M109 and M190 the wait commands are just for it to wait until the temp is reached before the next line of G code is processed


ETA - You would also be surprised how long it takes for the heat to permeate across the below. This gives you some detail but essentially you should be preheating your bed for a few minutes before printing etc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGQCv4xmjgs

What printer are you using?

So yeah in your scenario my start code would look like this:

M190 S{material_bed_temperature} ; start heating the bed to what is set in Cura and WAIT

G28 ;Home
G29 ;Auto level

M109 S{material_print_temperature} T0 ; start heating hotend to what is set in Cura and WAIT

G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up

End G code is fine its just to turn stuff off and move the bed to where you want it. Octopi is cool, loads of really good plugins for it, Octolapse and Spool manager were my favourites

Hi, I need a 3D printer that can print a rubber type flexible material, can anyone recommend the best printer and filament to use please, I only need a few small parts making but they need a bit of flexibility probably 90 shore hardness would be ideal.

Oh it also needs to be reasonably easy to use!

I've successfully printed a few operational parts now from 90 shore TPU.

It's not particularly easy or cheap stuff to print. Do you have a model already?

Do you need lots of them and a constant production? If you just need one of two knocking up then there are plenty of choices online for a few one off prints, PCB way do a shore of 88-90 for example.

Fair one, what's the budget? If you can be a bit "spendy" then I would be looking at a Bambu P1S if you want to be more spendy then the X1C after this things get very spendy.

I managed a good finish from TPU 90 shore (overture) but it took a lot of fettling and trial and error with settings and machine setup. Gotta print slow too.

Interested as why the two trumpets on the outside are shorter lengths

Thanks Geeks, just ordered in black Friday deal at £499 - now I will have to try and make it work!

No worries good luck

P1P is up for £499 right now and the P1S for £559 personally I would have spent the extra on the P1S

ETA TPU doesnt need an enclosure so I guess the P1P will be fine