Pembleton mkII - Tin Tub
Discussion
Ambleton said:
Because it gives a nice matte/brushed finish that I like.
My last one was polished and it was an absolute pain in the ass. As soon as you polish it, it picks up marks and or oxides and needs doing again. With a dull/brushed finish you don't have to worry about any of that
Thanks - I have a Caterham with unpainted aluminium, hence asking! I may go down that route too.My last one was polished and it was an absolute pain in the ass. As soon as you polish it, it picks up marks and or oxides and needs doing again. With a dull/brushed finish you don't have to worry about any of that
Well.... Test on Wednesday....
Had a panicked weekend of jobs to do!! Mainly radiusimg parts. Wrap exhaust to cover joins, brackets and clamps, nut covers, shrink wrap, dome nuts. Double checking hose and cable routings, wiping it down etc.
I also removed the sump extension as it meant I had to increase ride height and it looked like it was on stilts. I have fitted a bulk oil temp gauge though with the sensor in the sump.
I think I'm about ready for my first stab of the test. I'm hoping for a pass, but I wouldn't be surprised if they fail it on something. Better to expect a fail and then I won't be disappointed!
Final few jobs left to do. Need to double check the Speedo calibration and also tracking, then I can shrink the shrink wrap to cover the edges of the track adjusters.
The fire guard ain't pretty...
Trailer hired for mid week. Hiring a trailer was more troublesome than I thought. Has to be a flatbed (for the third wheel, and my Volvo is only rated to tow 2tonnes most flat bed trailers are rated at 2.7t and are twin axle.
Had a panicked weekend of jobs to do!! Mainly radiusimg parts. Wrap exhaust to cover joins, brackets and clamps, nut covers, shrink wrap, dome nuts. Double checking hose and cable routings, wiping it down etc.
I also removed the sump extension as it meant I had to increase ride height and it looked like it was on stilts. I have fitted a bulk oil temp gauge though with the sensor in the sump.
I think I'm about ready for my first stab of the test. I'm hoping for a pass, but I wouldn't be surprised if they fail it on something. Better to expect a fail and then I won't be disappointed!
Final few jobs left to do. Need to double check the Speedo calibration and also tracking, then I can shrink the shrink wrap to cover the edges of the track adjusters.
The fire guard ain't pretty...
Trailer hired for mid week. Hiring a trailer was more troublesome than I thought. Has to be a flatbed (for the third wheel, and my Volvo is only rated to tow 2tonnes most flat bed trailers are rated at 2.7t and are twin axle.
Good luck for Wednesday. It's nerve wracking - take the MSVA instruction book with you - I didn't and failed on points I shouldn't have. The testers are human so talk to them as you go through the process. Very good presentation and prep by the looks of it which will create the right impression
Your fireguard is definitely better than the one I came up with........mine didn't last long.
Your fireguard is definitely better than the one I came up with........mine didn't last long.
Konrod said:
Good luck for Wednesday. It's nerve wracking - take the MSVA instruction book with you - I didn't and failed on points I shouldn't have. The testers are human so talk to them as you go through the process. Very good presentation and prep by the looks of it which will create the right impression
Your fireguard is definitely better than the one I came up with........mine didn't last long.
Thanks. My fire guard is now third or fourth hand Your fireguard is definitely better than the one I came up with........mine didn't last long.
Tony (WEG3) made it for when he tested daisy and it's since "gone around the block".
I'm expecting questions on lights and belts but I'm prepped for those. Will take a digital copy to refer to just in case.
Everyone I've spoken to said that the testers are thorough but fair and want you to pass as ultimately they want to see cool stuff on the road (so long as it's safe). It's a great thing we do in this country. In the rest of Europe it's very very hard.
ivanhoew said:
i reckon it will pass .
(pocket full of brillo pads to stuff up the pipes .... just in case its too loud ?)
It's actually not that loud to be honest. A fair bit quieter than the last one!(pocket full of brillo pads to stuff up the pipes .... just in case its too loud ?)
Picked up the hire trailer last night to take it to the test, trailer is a fair bit heavier than the Pembleton! And it's a "lightweight"
single axle trailer
Douchebag of the day award goes to a younger chap walking past. His face lights up and says
"it's beautiful, is it a Morgan?"
I say no and shake my head, about to explain what it is, his shoulders drop and his face changes to as if I've just insulted his sainted grandmother and he just says "oh" and walks off....
Glad really as I didn't have to take time out explaining everything to the millionth person who walked past. Would've been wasting my breath anyway by his reaction...
"it's beautiful, is it a Morgan?"
I say no and shake my head, about to explain what it is, his shoulders drop and his face changes to as if I've just insulted his sainted grandmother and he just says "oh" and walks off....
Glad really as I didn't have to take time out explaining everything to the millionth person who walked past. Would've been wasting my breath anyway by his reaction...
Better get your spiel learned by heart - you'll need it at every fuel stop at least.
The best challenge I got was from a bloke who took his time to walk across the forecourt just to say one word - "why?". My response was "because I can - lesser mortals can't". He just smiled and walked off .....
The best challenge I got was from a bloke who took his time to walk across the forecourt just to say one word - "why?". My response was "because I can - lesser mortals can't". He just smiled and walked off .....
Test was about 2.5hrs long.
Failed on three things. Some fair enough, some a bit up for debate IMO but them the rules.
In fairness the inspector was very good and very thorough, he was overall very complimentary on the build and said generally it was much better presented than nearly all other kits/homebuilds.
He also said he'd never looked over a car that was a worthy pass first time round and my three "minors" were a good sign in his book.
Fail 1:
He didn't agree that the removable steering wheel was (by the rules) an acceptable anti theft device. Double checking the wording I think he's probably right. We discussed it at the time and I conceded.
"
• The device may be mechanical or electrical, or an electronic
immobiliser or a combination of these in addition to any switch normally used to start the engine.
• Mechanical devices must act positively to lock the steering or transmission system or both.
Requirements and Procedures
1. Check that the vehicle is fitted with an operational device or system intended to prevent the unauthorised use of the vehicle such that it shall be necessary to disable it in order to point, drive or move the vehicle straight ahead.
2. Check that any device fitted does not act on any part of the braking system.
3. Check that the protective device cannot accidentally jam when the vehicle is
in motion."
A removable steering wheel, in his reading of it, whilst is a mechanical device. Does not positively lock the steering.
Fail 2:
Two studs underneath are a smidge short of protruding through the locking feature on nuts, and therefore need addressing. Either with half locking nuts or slightly longer studs. (Fair one and easy to rectify)
Fail 3:
This one is slightly more tricky to resolve and is actually not my bad, but the chassis as supplied from PMC. Through the suspension articulation the suspension tie rods rub/foul on the chassis. The spring cups have been welded on a bit high. I have a plan for sorting it out (I think) but it's gonna be a bit of a mission to sort it out
Failed on three things. Some fair enough, some a bit up for debate IMO but them the rules.
In fairness the inspector was very good and very thorough, he was overall very complimentary on the build and said generally it was much better presented than nearly all other kits/homebuilds.
He also said he'd never looked over a car that was a worthy pass first time round and my three "minors" were a good sign in his book.
Fail 1:
He didn't agree that the removable steering wheel was (by the rules) an acceptable anti theft device. Double checking the wording I think he's probably right. We discussed it at the time and I conceded.
"
• The device may be mechanical or electrical, or an electronic
immobiliser or a combination of these in addition to any switch normally used to start the engine.
• Mechanical devices must act positively to lock the steering or transmission system or both.
Requirements and Procedures
1. Check that the vehicle is fitted with an operational device or system intended to prevent the unauthorised use of the vehicle such that it shall be necessary to disable it in order to point, drive or move the vehicle straight ahead.
2. Check that any device fitted does not act on any part of the braking system.
3. Check that the protective device cannot accidentally jam when the vehicle is
in motion."
A removable steering wheel, in his reading of it, whilst is a mechanical device. Does not positively lock the steering.
Fail 2:
Two studs underneath are a smidge short of protruding through the locking feature on nuts, and therefore need addressing. Either with half locking nuts or slightly longer studs. (Fair one and easy to rectify)
Fail 3:
This one is slightly more tricky to resolve and is actually not my bad, but the chassis as supplied from PMC. Through the suspension articulation the suspension tie rods rub/foul on the chassis. The spring cups have been welded on a bit high. I have a plan for sorting it out (I think) but it's gonna be a bit of a mission to sort it out
Well done. Getting through with minors like that is a positive achievement an you can be confident of it passing next time - they will only look at the fails, not re-asses the whole car again.
1 and 2 are easy to sort. The last one sounds more painful - I can't just remember the details but is there scope to move the rods where they locate through the tabs on the suspension arm (further down). Or could you add some bump stops so that the rod never gets to foul the chassis?
Let us know how you get on.
1 and 2 are easy to sort. The last one sounds more painful - I can't just remember the details but is there scope to move the rods where they locate through the tabs on the suspension arm (further down). Or could you add some bump stops so that the rod never gets to foul the chassis?
Let us know how you get on.
Konrod said:
Well done. Getting through with minors like that is a positive achievement an you can be confident of it passing next time - they will only look at the fails, not re-asses the whole car again.
1 and 2 are easy to sort. The last one sounds more painful - I can't just remember the details but is there scope to move the rods where they locate through the tabs on the suspension arm (further down). Or could you add some bump stops so that the rod never gets to foul the chassis?
Let us know how you get on.
No. It's as if the spring cups are welded in too high. As I see it there are three potential resolutions...1 and 2 are easy to sort. The last one sounds more painful - I can't just remember the details but is there scope to move the rods where they locate through the tabs on the suspension arm (further down). Or could you add some bump stops so that the rod never gets to foul the chassis?
Let us know how you get on.
1- move the connection point on the suspension arm vertically down on all three arms. (Means cutting and welding the suspension arms). This also firms up the suspension as the action ratio is reduced.
2- remove the spring cups and reattach them slightly further down (that's a lot of work and could damage the floor)
3- scolloping the chassis by ~5-8mm with a section of tube and adding in reinforcer plates to the sides and closing it off.
This is the area I'm talking about. You can see the spring in the cup with the tie rod here.
Changing the ride height doesn't increase clearance perceptibly because it's a horizontal linear motion.
Notching the chassis isn't ideal. I might look and see what mig torch access is like. The spring cups are fairly crude so I'm sure I could make something nicer. Cut the existing ones off and relocate new ones 5mm further down. Just need to make sure I can get welding access first....
It's very simple and very clever and the reason 2cvs lean a lot. Normally suspension is around 1.5:1 or something and are as such a rising rate. IE, the more travel, the firmer it gets.
On a 2cv design the ratio is about 4.5:1. The springs are much much stiffer and as such, the suspension travel is (basically) constant rate.
The suspension pulls on the back of the spring, rather than compressing it from the front, taking advantage that steel is excellent in tension and rubbish in compression.
The damper is a separate unit that lies parallel with the tie rod.
On a 2cv design the ratio is about 4.5:1. The springs are much much stiffer and as such, the suspension travel is (basically) constant rate.
The suspension pulls on the back of the spring, rather than compressing it from the front, taking advantage that steel is excellent in tension and rubbish in compression.
The damper is a separate unit that lies parallel with the tie rod.
Hmm, thanks for the photos, that makes it clearer - I was assuming the fouling was further away from the spring cup.
I wondered about putting spacers above the axle tube to lower the arm pivot points, but that then affects the steering shaft, bulkhead etc.
Have you spoken to PMC? I had problems in the SVA (as it was) and they were able to tell me how to resolve it, other than that I can't see anything you haven't mentioned, sorry! Perhaps ask them for dimensions to check how far out you are.
I wondered about putting spacers above the axle tube to lower the arm pivot points, but that then affects the steering shaft, bulkhead etc.
Have you spoken to PMC? I had problems in the SVA (as it was) and they were able to tell me how to resolve it, other than that I can't see anything you haven't mentioned, sorry! Perhaps ask them for dimensions to check how far out you are.
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