My Alfa Romeo GTV Cup Twinspark
Discussion
After wressling with the rear spring pan and springs a few weeks ago, little was done to the GTV due to bad weather and a sore back. Luckely, I found a set of rear suspension components that were rusty, but otherwise in very good condition.
Had them sand-blasted and painted with high temp paint and laquer. Backed (while the misses was away from home) and started installing the bushings last night.
They all seem to fit, apart from the one in the dogleg rear arm. The supplier from the bushings told me the spring pan and the dog leg have the same outer bushings. On one side, this is correct, but on the other side the bushing seems way to wide for the suspension arm.
If anyone (one nevers knows) would have a set of these, could they be so kind and measure the distance indicated in red.
This was how I got them
Baking the black paint (before laquer)
Finished
Had them sand-blasted and painted with high temp paint and laquer. Backed (while the misses was away from home) and started installing the bushings last night.
They all seem to fit, apart from the one in the dogleg rear arm. The supplier from the bushings told me the spring pan and the dog leg have the same outer bushings. On one side, this is correct, but on the other side the bushing seems way to wide for the suspension arm.
If anyone (one nevers knows) would have a set of these, could they be so kind and measure the distance indicated in red.
This was how I got them
Baking the black paint (before laquer)
Finished
Things have been quiet around here due to lack of time, but I finally installed the second hand door cards I had bought a few months ago. The old ones had the 'common' holes in them caused by slamming the door shut whilst the seat belt isn't fully wound up.
I did both left and right, but only took a few pictures. Dismantled the new panels (since they were from a different trim), removed all the trim from the Cup and installed them on the new panels.
I also had to replace a broken spring on the LHS doorhandle.
I did both left and right, but only took a few pictures. Dismantled the new panels (since they were from a different trim), removed all the trim from the Cup and installed them on the new panels.
I also had to replace a broken spring on the LHS doorhandle.
V6Nelo said:
Looks good. Great it went together easily.
How did the tweeter brackets look, at 25 years old the passenger door one deteriorated and feel off. Maybe the excessive slamming of the door by passengers over the years.
Thanks!How did the tweeter brackets look, at 25 years old the passenger door one deteriorated and feel off. Maybe the excessive slamming of the door by passengers over the years.
The foam from the speakers ( 5 x 7 ) was perished, bit the tweeters came out w/o any problems.
Continued working on the GTV today. I had replaced most of the suspension components on the rear on the left hand side, so tackled the others today. I replaced:
- spring pan
- spring
- bump stop
- shock
- dog leg susp. arm
- lower spring seat (rubber piece)
- upper spring mount
The car keeps impressing me in a good way, because altough there is some surface rust, no seized bolts, no excessive rust and apart from perished bushed and a completely knackered upper spring mount, it all came out smoothly.
How it looked when I started:
Lots and lots of dirt:
The old upper spring mount after it being handled quite roughly to get it out:
Cheers
- spring pan
- spring
- bump stop
- shock
- dog leg susp. arm
- lower spring seat (rubber piece)
- upper spring mount
The car keeps impressing me in a good way, because altough there is some surface rust, no seized bolts, no excessive rust and apart from perished bushed and a completely knackered upper spring mount, it all came out smoothly.
How it looked when I started:
Lots and lots of dirt:
The old upper spring mount after it being handled quite roughly to get it out:
Cheers
Since there is no other mechanical work I can do at the moment, I'm concentrating at the bodywork. The car has been used with the last owner (which I admire), but this means it has aged (and use) related marks and dings. Still, a good polish doesn't hurt, now does it?
Roof and quarter panel done.
Roof and quarter panel done.
This GTV is one of those cars that keeps you busy, but not always in a good way. Every job that I tackle makes me discover one or more new things that need to be adressed.
After nog being able to do much work on the car during winter, I ordered everything to replace cambelt, balancerbelt and aux belt. Removed the black covers L and R in the engine bay, removed front bumper (all need to be replaced), put the car on jack stands and took my first decent look underneath the front of the car (yes, I know...).
Discovered a badly repaired cracked sump (they used epoxy that is leaking) and every mounting point on the timing belt covers is cracked. As if that wasn't enough for the day, I noticed the balancer shaft tensioner and belt were missing.
So, in need of new sump and timing belt covers and bolts. Most are easy to find, but the cover that goes around the balancer shafts is harder to track down because I have no clue what they look like and I don't know if there are parts missing.
I was also wondering if I can replace the washer and nut from the balancer shaft tensioner with generic ones.
It's obvious that some some gaskets and seals need replacing and I have a feeling the clutch will need addressing as well. ATM, I don't feel like taking the engine out altough it doesn't seem like such a bad idea, but just want it going and ready for MOT.
After nog being able to do much work on the car during winter, I ordered everything to replace cambelt, balancerbelt and aux belt. Removed the black covers L and R in the engine bay, removed front bumper (all need to be replaced), put the car on jack stands and took my first decent look underneath the front of the car (yes, I know...).
Discovered a badly repaired cracked sump (they used epoxy that is leaking) and every mounting point on the timing belt covers is cracked. As if that wasn't enough for the day, I noticed the balancer shaft tensioner and belt were missing.
So, in need of new sump and timing belt covers and bolts. Most are easy to find, but the cover that goes around the balancer shafts is harder to track down because I have no clue what they look like and I don't know if there are parts missing.
I was also wondering if I can replace the washer and nut from the balancer shaft tensioner with generic ones.
It's obvious that some some gaskets and seals need replacing and I have a feeling the clutch will need addressing as well. ATM, I don't feel like taking the engine out altough it doesn't seem like such a bad idea, but just want it going and ready for MOT.
Good stuff - I will be very interested to hear how you tackle the cambelt - do you have a ticking noise at startup from the variator? ANy other leaks at the top end?
I'm amalgamating rear suspension parts at the moment... found out the rear wishbones for pre 2003 twinsparks are sifferent from the ones all for sale - those little differences really take up your time!
For the lower radiator support I would heavily recommend the reasonably priced stainless version from Autolusso.
I'm amalgamating rear suspension parts at the moment... found out the rear wishbones for pre 2003 twinsparks are sifferent from the ones all for sale - those little differences really take up your time!
For the lower radiator support I would heavily recommend the reasonably priced stainless version from Autolusso.
Spinakerr said:
Good stuff - I will be very interested to hear how you tackle the cambelt - do you have a ticking noise at startup from the variator? ANy other leaks at the top end?
I'm amalgamating rear suspension parts at the moment... found out the rear wishbones for pre 2003 twinsparks are sifferent from the ones all for sale - those little differences really take up your time!
For the lower radiator support I would heavily recommend the reasonably priced stainless version from Autolusso.
Thanks! I'm amalgamating rear suspension parts at the moment... found out the rear wishbones for pre 2003 twinsparks are sifferent from the ones all for sale - those little differences really take up your time!
For the lower radiator support I would heavily recommend the reasonably priced stainless version from Autolusso.
I have been looking for a variator for quite some time (since I own the car), but can't find a good second hand one and I'm not ready to fork out another 300-400 GBP for on atm. My initial goal was to get the car ready for it's MOT, but the more I work on it, the more 'nasty' surprises I come across, so I have to decide which jobs I tackle now and which ones I'm tackling at a later date.
About the rad support: I've seen the stainless one, but shipping and import tax will kill it. This one can just be powdercoated and last a few more years.
On the 'powdercoating' note, I removed the front subframe yesterday. It's a pain doing it on the driveway and it's the 4 small bolts connected to the exhaust heat-shield that make it even worse to remove.
On the plus-side: I now have all the space I need to remove and replace the sump
. Time for an update, will try to make and add some pics, but it's nothing special. So, the last few days I've tried to do some work on the GTV inbetween family, work and chores around the house. What's the status:
- 2 brake lines that are completely gone (running from ABS block to the lines that connect to the back of the car). Both will be replaced as they just snapped when I tried to feed them trough the engine bay
- 1 brake lines that's perfectly fine, but has ONE nasty spot. Will replace as much of the line as possible.
=> so I will need to learn how to make brake lines...
- both drive-shafts removed since they need new inner boots
- the alternator makes a rumbling sound when spinning the pulley. Since the subframe is removed, now is the time to replace it
- ordered a replacement sump from Italy
So, first job will be the brake lines, followed by sump and alternator.
- 2 brake lines that are completely gone (running from ABS block to the lines that connect to the back of the car). Both will be replaced as they just snapped when I tried to feed them trough the engine bay
- 1 brake lines that's perfectly fine, but has ONE nasty spot. Will replace as much of the line as possible.
=> so I will need to learn how to make brake lines...
- both drive-shafts removed since they need new inner boots
- the alternator makes a rumbling sound when spinning the pulley. Since the subframe is removed, now is the time to replace it
- ordered a replacement sump from Italy
So, first job will be the brake lines, followed by sump and alternator.
Nice project and I've did all of those jobs and more on my Phase 1 Spider a while back.
I had a nightmare with sumps and both the second hand ones I bought to replace my original one had really hard to spot cracks exactly where your one is. Initially I fixed one with Belzona and drove round on that for a couple of years or so. Finally got one of the cracked ones welded up at work and had a new insert welded in for the sump plug threaded section as that had an oversize plug fitted (badly).
If your sump that's coming isn't brand new I'd really recommend you get it crack tested (NDE) before you fit it, the one I had repaired had some cracks you couldn't see visually.
I had a nightmare with sumps and both the second hand ones I bought to replace my original one had really hard to spot cracks exactly where your one is. Initially I fixed one with Belzona and drove round on that for a couple of years or so. Finally got one of the cracked ones welded up at work and had a new insert welded in for the sump plug threaded section as that had an oversize plug fitted (badly).
If your sump that's coming isn't brand new I'd really recommend you get it crack tested (NDE) before you fit it, the one I had repaired had some cracks you couldn't see visually.
wal 45 said:
Nice project and I've did all of those jobs and more on my Phase 1 Spider a while back.
If your sump that's coming isn't brand new I'd really recommend you get it crack tested (NDE) before you fit it, the one I had repaired had some cracks you couldn't see visually.
Well, let's hope it's in good shape...it's not new so fingers crossed. Will fill it with oil and let it stand for a night since I have no other way of checking. If your sump that's coming isn't brand new I'd really recommend you get it crack tested (NDE) before you fit it, the one I had repaired had some cracks you couldn't see visually.
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