Griff body off
Discussion
you can lift it to about 8" (rear) with the headers on... but have to take them off to fully remove the body... no need to take the rad out I don't think .. just push it up to get at the lower bolts 
watch out fpr the packing shims at the back if you do lift it
watch out fpr the packing shims at the back if you do lift it
Edited by TVR Beaver on Tuesday 25th March 21:41
Thanks guys,ive already got the engine out and bay stripped,but l wanted to put the engine back before l put the body back,so really l want to put the body back on a rolling chassis ,l think i will have to put new out riggers on ,whats the best to do buy some steel and make em or buy from someone ready made,
Thanks again for the advice,l can post some pics if anyones interested .but there seems a lot on here already .Rick
Thanks again for the advice,l can post some pics if anyones interested .but there seems a lot on here already .Rick
rickspeedtvr said:
Thanks guys,ive already got the engine out and bay stripped,but l wanted to put the engine back before l put the body back,so really l want to put the body back on a rolling chassis ,l think i will have to put new out riggers on ,whats the best to do buy some steel and make em or buy from someone ready made,
Thanks again for the advice,l can post some pics if anyones interested .but there seems a lot on here already .Rick
Rick, I took the body off my Griff with the engine in-situ. I didn't take the radiator out. I am seriously considering putting the body back on the chassis without engine and gearbox and installing the engine later, mainly because those manifold bolts are such fThanks again for the advice,l can post some pics if anyones interested .but there seems a lot on here already .Rick
ers to get in once the body is on and the engine is installed. It probably took me half a day to get those bolts out, making up special tools etc. I would also like to make sure the exhaust manifold gaskets are sitting properly and the bolts properly torqued, which is impossible once the body is on.If you put the engine in once the body is on, it will have to go in at a steep angle, you will need a load leveller. If you decide to put the engine in and then the body, I reckon it will be a lot easier to get to those manifold bolts by jacking up the engine and leaving off the engine mounts until the bolts are tightened - that's what I planned to do if I put the engine in first.
Have a look at my thread:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Unfortunately rebuild hasn't progressed far this month as I have been spending time on garden project and keeping the 'Green Meanie' in fine fettle.
You're not that far from me. Mail me if you want to chat or even a hand with your project. Pete
rickspeedtvr said:
l think i will have to put new out riggers on ,whats the best to do buy some steel and make em or buy from someone ready made,
Thanks again for the advice,l can post some pics if anyones interested .but there seems a lot on here already .Rick
Sorry missed this. Whether you buy the steel from someone else or buy a kit, the most important thing is to ensure the replacement outriggers are located exactly as the outgoing ones and also your welding is good or you have someone to do the welding. My outriggers were OK amazingly but I was planning to do it all myself, making up my own jig to locate the new outriggers.Thanks again for the advice,l can post some pics if anyones interested .but there seems a lot on here already .Rick
I am planning to have my chassis galvanized (see my thread, interested..?) Whatever you do it is worth having your chassis and wishbones shotblasted before putting the finish on.
Pete
rickspeedtvr said:
Thanks guys,ive already got the engine out and bay stripped,but l wanted to put the engine back before l put the body back,so really l want to put the body back on a rolling chassis ,l think i will have to put new out riggers on ,whats the best to do buy some steel and make em or buy from someone ready made,
Thanks again for the advice,l can post some pics if anyones interested .but there seems a lot on here already .Rick
if you're back to a bare chassis, its probably best to take it somewhere RT racing, willow, sportmotive (in no particular order) and have them welded back jugged. that way you know there correct.Thanks again for the advice,l can post some pics if anyones interested .but there seems a lot on here already .Rick
if you're buying the outriggers i know sportmotive have them off the shelf and supply others as I've seen a huge stack there last week.
was it unbolted first?.. or just ripped off 
HI guys does anyone know what the part number for the brake bias valve on a 96 griff 500 is or who made it,it sits infront off the rear brake t/piece .When l undid the valve from the brake unions the thead upon the bias valve stripped,amazing really as the brake nut was brass and the valve made of steel !!!!!!.Nothing wrong with the valve just a stripped end. Any help greatfully received .Rick
rickspeedtvr said:
HI guys does anyone know what the part number for the brake bias valve on a 96 griff 500 is or who made it,it sits infront off the rear brake t/piece .When l undid the valve from the brake unions the thead upon the bias valve stripped,amazing really as the brake nut was brass and the valve made of steel !!!!!!.Nothing wrong with the valve just a stripped end. Any help greatfully received .Rick
Here you go...... http://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/j0152-tvr-car-part...Seems a rip off to me at that price.
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