evans waterless coolant - anyone using?
Discussion
OK guys
Powercool it is and what I recommended
5L of each, power cool and prep fluid would be £94.92 including carriage and VAT and that's 20% discount.
As stated earlier you would need 10L of each but if three of you club together it would mean that the 10L of prep fluid could be shared.
If you wait until growl it would save carriage and our friends from Europe would need to email me at info@absolutelyshocks.com for carriage charges
Powercool it is and what I recommended
5L of each, power cool and prep fluid would be £94.92 including carriage and VAT and that's 20% discount.
As stated earlier you would need 10L of each but if three of you club together it would mean that the 10L of prep fluid could be shared.
If you wait until growl it would save carriage and our friends from Europe would need to email me at info@absolutelyshocks.com for carriage charges
On the subject of prep fluid.
Even if you ran the car for a couple of hours with the heater on to clear that water, would it be sensible to run with half the fluid.? I don't think so!
Evans are basing their recommendations on what, only generic sports cars that could be an mx5 with 5L or a Lotus Elise/TVR Griffith with 9/10L
Even if you ran the car for a couple of hours with the heater on to clear that water, would it be sensible to run with half the fluid.? I don't think so!
Evans are basing their recommendations on what, only generic sports cars that could be an mx5 with 5L or a Lotus Elise/TVR Griffith with 9/10L
griffdude said:
I'll just continue with a well-maintained cooling system that seems to work fine & doesn't depend on the ambient conditions/driving style.
I can't help feeling that this is a distraction from ensuring that your Griff has got a well-maintained cooling system.After all these stories and talking to experts I convinced myself I had a blown head gasket and or slipped liner(s). I could not seem to get rid of bubbles and every time I parked I seemed to dump a load of water/anti-freeze.
As a last check I got the cooling water checked with a 'sniffer', which confirmed there were no exhaust gases in the water.
I then did a programme of going over the whole cooling system to make sure it worked OK. I flushed it out, I replaced the hoses, the thermostat and I made myself up a 'bleeder' consisting of a robust funnel, screwed into a brass BSP fitting using PTFE tape. The 'bleeder' is then screwed onto the swirl pot.
I spent ages bleeding the system. I opened up the heater valves, I unbolted the expansion tank and lifted it up high and I continually squeezed the hoses until I got all the bubbles out - net result is perfect cooling and I don't dump the water anymore so no water loss.
Are you sure you want to go through the rigmarole and cost of using Evans waterless cooling and then find that the reason your Griff is overheating is caused by something else.....?
Pete
PS. My Griff is a 500 and does have the throughflow of air so perhaps it is different for a 4.0/4.3
You guys scare me- the liners are fitted to the aluminium block by heating it,(and its not that much above the boiling point of water - ill check this though) so they become a tight fit as the block cools, - so even if you dont boil any more, but get anywhere near this temp, the liners can move and trash the engine. I rather have it boil so I know its getting too hot rather than "hey look its 110'C and not boiling!"
chris watton said:
Has anyone tried this in a S6 engine?
I keep being told that the engine would run too hot - but it would be good to separate fact from fiction, as I too think it's a great idea and like the thought that the liquids aren't slowly dissolving the internals...
It doesn't run anywhere near dangerous temps and it is designed to run in fragile engines like old classics or Rotary engines so running it in a speed six would not be a problem as it runs at Max of only 3 degrees more than water.I keep being told that the engine would run too hot - but it would be good to separate fact from fiction, as I too think it's a great idea and like the thought that the liquids aren't slowly dissolving the internals...
We are running this product in endurance cars like the RX8 and mx5 cars with big head skims that would normally overheat and you can take the rad cap straight off from full hot with just a bit of rag to protect your hand.
Edited by Ab Shocks on Wednesday 16th April 13:31
Leaving the boiling point to one side for a moment- the bottom line is does this product absorb heat faster from the engine, and let it go faster in the rad- so improve the thermal transfer of engine heat to the air? Water is a hard act to follow on this one. If it does not then you dont really gain any extra cooling effiency unless you are already above boiling point.
blitzracing said:
Leaving the boiling point to one side for a moment- the bottom line is does this product absorb heat faster from the engine, and let it go faster in the rad- so improve the thermal transfer of engine heat to the air? Water is a hard act to follow on this one. If it does not then you dont really gain any extra cooling effiency unless you are already above boiling point.
Yes yes and yes, added to this there is less cavitation according to my boffins which makes for more even temperaturesblitzracing said:
Leaving the boiling point to one side for a moment- the bottom line is does this product absorb heat faster from the engine, and let it go faster in the rad- so improve the thermal transfer of engine heat to the air? Water is a hard act to follow on this one. If it does not then you dont really gain any extra cooling effiency unless you are already above boiling point.
Easy enough to find out: http://www.evanscoolants.co.uk/technical/no-water-...Ab Shocks said:
chris watton said:
Has anyone tried this in a S6 engine?
I keep being told that the engine would run too hot - but it would be good to separate fact from fiction, as I too think it's a great idea and like the thought that the liquids aren't slowly dissolving the internals...
It doesn't run anywhere near dangerous temps and it is designed to run in fragile engines like old classics or Rotary engines so running it in a speed six would not be a problem as it runs at Max of only 3 degrees more than water.I keep being told that the engine would run too hot - but it would be good to separate fact from fiction, as I too think it's a great idea and like the thought that the liquids aren't slowly dissolving the internals...
We are running this product in endurance cars like the RX8 and mx5 cars with big head skims that would normally overheat and you can take the rad cap straight off from full hot with just a bit of rag to protect your hand.
Edited by Ab Shocks on Wednesday 16th April 13:31
I want to try this in my wife's MGF Trophy, as the cooling system is very convoluted in that - and if not bled properly, HGF can ensue....
blitzracing said:
Leaving the boiling point to one side for a moment- the bottom line is does this product absorb heat faster from the engine, and let it go faster in the rad- so improve the thermal transfer of engine heat to the air? Water is a hard act to follow on this one. If it does not then you dont really gain any extra cooling effiency unless you are already above boiling point.
Water is good, air is s
te... Unfortunately the 2 go together and wherever the air separates you get steam pockets and very hot spots (typically at the rear of the heads).Quality red synthetic anti-freezes do keep the internals clean from my experience (I've used Audi stuff for 10 years now), your average glycol just seems to fur up everywhere in no time how ever often you change it. So when you consider thermal transfer of water you can't ignore the fur insulation twixt water & aluminium.
EggsBenedict said:
blitzracing said:
Leaving the boiling point to one side for a moment- the bottom line is does this product absorb heat faster from the engine, and let it go faster in the rad- so improve the thermal transfer of engine heat to the air? Water is a hard act to follow on this one. If it does not then you dont really gain any extra cooling effiency unless you are already above boiling point.
Easy enough to find out: http://www.evanscoolants.co.uk/technical/no-water-...Ummm.......
That seems to be a contradiction of terms. Hotter water- good if its pulling more heat from the engine- but that would make the oil temp drop, not rise....Edited by blitzracing on Wednesday 16th April 16:30
Ab Shocks said:
On the subject of prep fluid.
Even if you ran the car for a couple of hours with the heater on to clear that water, would it be sensible to run with half the fluid.? I don't think so!
Evans are basing their recommendations on what, only generic sports cars that could be an mx5 with 5L or a Lotus Elise/TVR Griffith with 9/10L
That was my concern, in my Griff I don't think 5L would even be enough for the water pump to circulate it. Even if you ran the car for a couple of hours with the heater on to clear that water, would it be sensible to run with half the fluid.? I don't think so!
Evans are basing their recommendations on what, only generic sports cars that could be an mx5 with 5L or a Lotus Elise/TVR Griffith with 9/10L
blitzracing said:
EggsBenedict said:
blitzracing said:
Leaving the boiling point to one side for a moment- the bottom line is does this product absorb heat faster from the engine, and let it go faster in the rad- so improve the thermal transfer of engine heat to the air? Water is a hard act to follow on this one. If it does not then you dont really gain any extra cooling effiency unless you are already above boiling point.
Easy enough to find out: http://www.evanscoolants.co.uk/technical/no-water-...Ummm.......
That seems to be a contradiction of terms. Hotter water- good if its pulling more heat from the engine- but that would make the oil temp drop, not rise....Edited by blitzracing on Wednesday 16th April 16:30
Scepticism is the new black
My mate up the pub who says TVR,s breakdown not that I would know as I have only had 4 and never ever drove an another car that never ever breaks down, anyway my mate points out that if you can fill up with that stuff that comes out of a tap if a waterless coolant leaks due to a failure of a hose or a weld on a water rail why do you need to flush it through with a flushing stuff in the first place and my mate who drinks up the pub and does not know a lot about cars let alone TVR,s that supposedly break downs says are engines not designed to run with that stuff that comes out of a tap in the first place and is free at most outlets so why bother with something that costs you money and it can cause you no end of problems if you get a leak where the stuff that costs you money is not available where you breakdown due to a failure which is out of your control
just my mates observations
My mate who will says in principle it sounds like a great idea but until you can turn a tap on and get the stuff then why bother
maybe we should ask Ferrari, Ford, Toyota etc why they don't use waterless stuff
but that is just my mates opinion
just my mates observations
My mate who will says in principle it sounds like a great idea but until you can turn a tap on and get the stuff then why bother
maybe we should ask Ferrari, Ford, Toyota etc why they don't use waterless stuff
but that is just my mates opinion
billy no brakes said:
My mate up the pub who says TVR,s breakdown not that I would know as I have only had 4 and never ever drove an another car that never ever breaks down, anyway my mate points out that if you can fill up with that stuff that comes out of a tap if a waterless coolant leaks due to a failure of a hose or a weld on a water rail why do you need to flush it through with a flushing stuff in the first place and my mate who drinks up the pub and does not know a lot about cars let alone TVR,s that supposedly break downs says are engines not designed to run with that stuff that comes out of a tap in the first place and is free at most outlets so why bother with something that costs you money and it can cause you no end of problems if you get a leak where the stuff that costs you money is not available where you breakdown due to a failure which is out of your control
just my mates observations
My mate who will says in principle it sounds like a great idea but until you can turn a tap on and get the stuff then why bother
maybe we should ask Ferrari, Ford, Toyota etc why they don't use waterless stuff
but that is just my mates opinion
just my mates observations
My mate who will says in principle it sounds like a great idea but until you can turn a tap on and get the stuff then why bother
maybe we should ask Ferrari, Ford, Toyota etc why they don't use waterless stuff
but that is just my mates opinion
,,,,,,,,,, 
billy no brakes said:
maybe we should ask Ferrari, Ford, Toyota etc why they don't use waterless stuff
I'm sure there are lots of things the manufacturers could do but they al add to the initial retail price which they want to keep that as low as possible - if all items were another £50 then the cars would be £2-3k more. You dont even get a spare wheel anymore or my last few cars not even a cigarrete lighter as its now an optional extra.I'm still not 100% but still on the positive outweighing the negatives side at the minute.
FFG
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