Electric power steering pump...........

Electric power steering pump...........

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Discussion

Hedgehopper

Original Poster:

1,537 posts

243 months

Saturday 5th July 2014
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My second brand new pump in 200 miles has become incredibly noisy and I am considering going electric.

Has anyone got pictures of one fitted to a Griff as there doesn't appear to be much room to install it?

From posts on Pistonheads the two pumps normally used are the Peugeot 106/Citroen Saxo or the Astra Mk4 TRW.

Do electric pumps run continuously or only when the steering wheel is moved?

Are they noisy (the reason I am ditching my standard pump)?

Advice greatly appreciated.

carsy

3,018 posts

164 months

Saturday 5th July 2014
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I`ve not looked into it yet, but i was wondering if there would be enough room to get it in the void underneath the o/s lamp pod.

As for noise. I`m sure they run all the time but only speed up as assistance is required. Pretty sure you wont hear it over the engine but just have a listen to an Astra you can only just hear them.

Precat

266 posts

224 months

Saturday 5th July 2014
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My car is a 1992 Griffith
I install a TVR Griffith PAS rack and a Saxo PAS pump in 2009. It has proved to be totally reliable.
The pump runs continuously though I can not hear it when when I am driving.



It is mounted in front of the cross member and above the bottom of the radiator as shown.
Hope this helps.
Precat

Hedgehopper

Original Poster:

1,537 posts

243 months

Sunday 6th July 2014
quotequote all
Thanks for the replies....

carsy, plenty of room under the headlight pod but I think access would be really difficult unless the pod was taken out.

Precat, that's a neat install you have there but not possible on my car as the Serp engine has the header tank in the same position. However if I could re-route the bottom hose I might be able to mount the pump to the left of the position you have chosen.

From what I can see on your pic. your belt only seems to be driving the alternator and water pump, not the idler pulley. I'm surprised there is enough 'wrap' around the water pump pulley to prevent skidding?

Back to the drawing board......

phazed

21,844 posts

203 months

Sunday 6th July 2014
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My belt runs the same and I run a Vectra pump in front of the crossmember on a chim.

Hedgehopper

Original Poster:

1,537 posts

243 months

Sunday 6th July 2014
quotequote all
Peter, is the Vectra pump the same as this Astra Mk4 pump?



Does your pump run continuously or only when the steering wheel is moved?

Does your pump give variable assistance the more the wheel is turned or is the assistance constant?

Sorry about all the questions but I have no experience of electric pumps.

phazed

21,844 posts

203 months

Sunday 6th July 2014
quotequote all
Pump starts when engine actually runs.

If you stall the engine with ignition on then it stops.

Otherwise runs continuous.

It's power is not depend related but feels very similar to the hydraulic pump.

Ah, of course I have a scooby rack but sme idea.


Hedgehopper

Original Poster:

1,537 posts

243 months

Monday 7th July 2014
quotequote all
Thanks Peter,your pump looks the same as my picture.

May be a good idea to make this a winter project rather than waste this top-down weather.

mattrosersv

579 posts

229 months

Monday 7th July 2014
quotequote all
On my Chimaera I wired in my Saxo pump (with remote reservoir - there are two variants) off the fuel pump relay. I have also wired in dedicated fused wiring to the fuel pump and an additional relay off this feed - I am running a Bosche pump and the old wiring was past its best and possibly not up to the job of the higher power pump.

Since the fuel pump relay is now in the boot I then used the redundant carbon canister fuel hose to route the wire feed to the pump relay in the front of the car. Not sure if it is an option on a Grief, but I installed mine in the near side wing bolted to the floor on a piece of rubber with a u clamp fashioned from a strip of aluminium. In this location the existing hoses just fit so can be re-used if they are in good nick.

If you go the Saxo route make sure you get the grey relay and associated wiring. The relay is rated at 45 amps so will require suitably rated wiring and fuse. I went with 70 amp wiring up front to give me the option of an additional dedicated feed for one of the cooling fans - which I have also uprated.

Matt

Hedgehopper

Original Poster:

1,537 posts

243 months

Monday 7th July 2014
quotequote all
Thanks Matt, I've been Googling all morning trying to find out what size fuse to fit. Looking at the connection cable I guessed it would be a big one.

Colin RedGriff

2,526 posts

256 months

Monday 7th July 2014
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Racing Green used to do a conversion with a Corsa electric motor assisted column (not hydraulic) under the dash

mattrosersv

579 posts

229 months

Tuesday 8th July 2014
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I actually used a Halfords kits (In their audio section) that includes fuse, earth and Live wires. The kit was either rated at 70 or 80 amps. It was about 35 quid from memory.

Matt

spend

12,581 posts

250 months

Tuesday 8th July 2014
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OTOMH I'm pretty sure one of the saxo pumps has a 70A power rating (relay, fuse & cable)? Probably the one with the integral filler ~ may have something to with earlier versions having unreliable relays ~ replacing the fly loom seemed to be a common problem when I researched a few years ago????

Hedgehopper

Original Poster:

1,537 posts

243 months

Tuesday 8th July 2014
quotequote all
Thanks Spend, probably would help if I could find out what size fuse is used on the T350 as the same pump is used on that car.

I intend to take the main power feed from the starter motor terminal to the relay as its nearby. The switch feed to the relay has to be live only when the engine is running. I believe people use the alternator for this but which terminal would it be?

spend

12,581 posts

250 months

Tuesday 8th July 2014
quotequote all
Hedgehopper said:
Thanks Spend, probably would help if I could find out what size fuse is used on the T350 as the same pump is used on that car.

I intend to take the main power feed from the starter motor terminal to the relay as its nearby. The switch feed to the relay has to be live only when the engine is running. I believe people use the alternator for this but which terminal would it be?
I don't think you can do that from the starter > alternator (oops brain v finger error)???

I've always advised using the positive wiring circuit from the purge valve ~ that is activated by the fuel pump relay, so you get a quick prime when the ignition switched on, off for cranking & then running when the engine is spinning ~ so apart from the extra brief prime just like the mechanical pump availability (apart from on coast down I suppose).


Edited by spend on Tuesday 8th July 23:20

jesfirth

1,743 posts

241 months

Tuesday 8th July 2014
quotequote all
Mine runs off the alternator and is tucked down by the rad at the front wing. Get a Saxon pump with a remote reservoir not an integrated one. It's a much easier install

Hedgehopper

Original Poster:

1,537 posts

243 months

Wednesday 9th July 2014
quotequote all
spend said:
I don't think you can do that from the starter > alternator (oops brain v finger error)???

I've always advised using the positive wiring circuit from the purge valve ~ that is activated by the fuel pump relay, so you get a quick prime when the ignition switched on, off for cranking & then running when the engine is spinning ~ so apart from the extra brief prime just like the mechanical pump availability (apart from on coast down I suppose).


Edited by spend on Tuesday 8th July 23:20
Just noticed your edit Dave, does this mean that it is OK to take the main feed from the starter solenoid terminal and the relay trigger wire from the purge valve?

Asked on the T350 forum and they say the fuse on their cars is 75amps.

Jes, the pump with the remote reservoir would be easier to find a home for, as you have, but unfortunately I already have the other type of pump. I'm hoping to relocate the bottom hose to pump under the top front crossmember and then sit the pump on top of the crossmember.

spend

12,581 posts

250 months

Wednesday 9th July 2014
quotequote all
Hedgehopper said:
Just noticed your edit Dave, does this mean that it is OK to take the main feed from the starter solenoid terminal and the relay trigger wire from the purge valve?

Asked on the T350 forum and they say the fuse on their cars is 75amps.

Jes, the pump with the remote reservoir would be easier to find a home for, as you have, but unfortunately I already have the other type of pump. I'm hoping to relocate the bottom hose to pump under the top front crossmember and then sit the pump on top of the crossmember.
Yes exactly wink

I think the 45 vs 75A maybe a difference in the saxo style pumps... It should be quite possible to chop off the neck, adding a reducer & pipe to make remote filler if necessary?

It's a fiddle of a fit but the necked version will sit happily twixt rad & front chassis on the griff ~ but the coolant tank then needs shifting... I removed the rivnuts and drilled right through the chassis member to bolt 6mm plate to hang the pump off (they're pretty heavy lumps!). The expansion tank part was easier as we totally redesigned the coolant system at the same time and made an expansion tank to sit up nice & high on the side of the plenum.

Hedgehopper

Original Poster:

1,537 posts

243 months

Wednesday 9th July 2014
quotequote all
Thanks Dave for confirming the wiring connections. Next job is to have some mounting brackets made up. Fortunately my pump came with its original mounting cage so that will give me a good start.

spend

12,581 posts

250 months

Wednesday 9th July 2014
quotequote all
I just used 90/100mm u bolts, stuck some rubber on the pump and clamped/suspended it to the monster plate attached to the chassis (took most time to shape it so the neck & hose fitted ~ drilling obviously easy...) The original mounts would have been far more complicated to use & take up more space wink