Door Mirror 'Toadstall Trim' - Desperately Wanted!
Discussion
Had a sudden thought 
I have a wing mirror off at the moment for respray
I have a client with commercial 3D printers, proper kit.
They can make anything out of any material.
I will be collecting the wing mirror any day now.
I have to drive past the client after collecting the wing mirror.
I could at least pop in and get a mates rates price for making any number of replacements
I will do it tomorrow or Tuesday.
I have a wing mirror off at the moment for respray
I have a client with commercial 3D printers, proper kit.
They can make anything out of any material.
I will be collecting the wing mirror any day now.
I have to drive past the client after collecting the wing mirror.
I could at least pop in and get a mates rates price for making any number of replacements
I will do it tomorrow or Tuesday.
Pete Mac said:
roseytvr said:
Sorry for the thread hijack but does anyone know what size Allen key fits the grub screw?
3mm I believe. When you come up with a way of turning it in-situ, please let us all know. Pete
I tried a different approach as I struggled lining it up by tightening the grub screw to the boss and then fitting the whole. When you hold the mirror in the correct place you will note the grub screw is at the top of the boss and pointing towards a section of the door covered by the aluminium window frame. I had the door cards off anyway so I removed the alloy window frame, marked the masking tape on the door around the mirror with the line an allen key would need to take to go straight into the grub screw.
I put a pilot hole through first to make sure I was in the right area and then another pilot hole above it to come in at the right angle. I then opened up the second hole to 5mm and filed enough fibreglass back to allow an allen key to go straight into the grub screw.
Above you can see the angle of the allen key fitted in the grub screw.
Above shows the hole and the shaped angle to allow entry into the grub screw. Silicon applied and covered by the frame once refitted. Jobs a good un. In theory you could drill the alloy frame and put a plug on it for ease of access in the future but I haven't and if it comes loose again I will just take the card off, loosen the frame and tighten it up.
Cheers
Ian
roseytvr said:
Pete
I tried a different approach as I struggled lining it up by tightening the grub screw to the boss and then fitting the whole. When you hold the mirror in the correct place you will note the grub screw is at the top of the boss and pointing towards a section of the door covered by the aluminium window frame. I had the door cards off anyway so I removed the alloy window frame, marked the masking tape on the door around the mirror with the line an allen key would need to take to go straight into the grub screw.
I put a pilot hole through first to make sure I was in the right area and then another pilot hole above it to come in at the right angle. I then opened up the second hole to 5mm and filed enough fibreglass back to allow an allen key to go straight into the grub screw.
Above you can see the angle of the allen key fitted in the grub screw.
Above shows the hole and the shaped angle to allow entry into the grub screw. Silicon applied and covered by the frame once refitted. Jobs a good un. In theory you could drill the alloy frame and put a plug on it for ease of access in the future but I haven't and if it comes loose again I will just take the card off, loosen the frame and tighten it up.
Cheers
Ian
Ian, I nearly did this and it would have been my next move if I hadn't succeeded on aligning the toadstool. At the time it just seemed too drastic for my needs. Overall my conclusion is that this is a pig of a job, whichever way you approach it and if anyone can think of a better way of fixing the mirrors or alternatively come up with some alternative mirrors then that would be great. Like all things TVR, you won't make a fortune but you would have a steady stream of customers between the Griffs and the Chimps. PeteI tried a different approach as I struggled lining it up by tightening the grub screw to the boss and then fitting the whole. When you hold the mirror in the correct place you will note the grub screw is at the top of the boss and pointing towards a section of the door covered by the aluminium window frame. I had the door cards off anyway so I removed the alloy window frame, marked the masking tape on the door around the mirror with the line an allen key would need to take to go straight into the grub screw.
I put a pilot hole through first to make sure I was in the right area and then another pilot hole above it to come in at the right angle. I then opened up the second hole to 5mm and filed enough fibreglass back to allow an allen key to go straight into the grub screw.
Above you can see the angle of the allen key fitted in the grub screw.
Above shows the hole and the shaped angle to allow entry into the grub screw. Silicon applied and covered by the frame once refitted. Jobs a good un. In theory you could drill the alloy frame and put a plug on it for ease of access in the future but I haven't and if it comes loose again I will just take the card off, loosen the frame and tighten it up.
Cheers
Ian
Alternative is tighten the grub screw, then put the mirror onto the car and tighten it in place. (For those who don't know, it screws in).
It won't be at the correct angle.
1. Work out what angle it is out by.
2. Remove the wing mirror from the car.
3. Undo the grub screw and rotate the ring by that angle.
4. Tighten the grub screw.
5. Refit the mirror and tighten.
6. Swear, because you moved the ring the correct amount........in the wrong direction.
You had a 50% chance of being correct.
7. Repeat steps 2-5 until happy.
It won't be at the correct angle.
1. Work out what angle it is out by.
2. Remove the wing mirror from the car.
3. Undo the grub screw and rotate the ring by that angle.
4. Tighten the grub screw.
5. Refit the mirror and tighten.
6. Swear, because you moved the ring the correct amount........in the wrong direction.
You had a 50% chance of being correct.7. Repeat steps 2-5 until happy.
C
QBee said:
Had a sudden thought
I have a wing mirror off at the moment for respray
I have a client with commercial 3D printers, proper kit.
They can make anything out of any material.
I will be collecting the wing mirror any day now.
I have to drive past the client after collecting the wing mirror.
I could at least pop in and get a mates rates price for making any number of replacements
I will do it tomorrow or Tuesday.
mirror wasn't ready Friday, so now scheduled for Tuesday. I have a wing mirror off at the moment for respray
I have a client with commercial 3D printers, proper kit.
They can make anything out of any material.
I will be collecting the wing mirror any day now.
I have to drive past the client after collecting the wing mirror.
I could at least pop in and get a mates rates price for making any number of replacements
I will do it tomorrow or Tuesday.
QBee said:
mirror wasn't ready Friday, so now scheduled for Tuesday.
Very interested to know what you come up with on this. I've had no experience of 3D printers but I reckon there are a few bits and bobs of trim on the Griffith (and other TVRs) that would benefit from this. Keep us posted and as I said earlier, if it helps and the cost is not astronomical, I am happy to put my name down for 4 x mirror trim pieces on spec for the future. PetePete Mac said:
QBee said:
mirror wasn't ready Friday, so now scheduled for Tuesday.
Very interested to know what you come up with on this. I've had no experience of 3D printers but I reckon there are a few bits and bobs of trim on the Griffith (and other TVRs) that would benefit from this. Keep us posted and as I said earlier, if it helps and the cost is not astronomical, I am happy to put my name down for 4 x mirror trim pieces on spec for the future. PeteI will get back to you when I have spoken to them on Tuesday. A bulk buy will be cheaper per unit as there are set up costs scanning the object to be copied.
QBee said:
Pete Mac said:
QBee said:
mirror wasn't ready Friday, so now scheduled for Tuesday.
Very interested to know what you come up with on this. I've had no experience of 3D printers but I reckon there are a few bits and bobs of trim on the Griffith (and other TVRs) that would benefit from this. Keep us posted and as I said earlier, if it helps and the cost is not astronomical, I am happy to put my name down for 4 x mirror trim pieces on spec for the future. PeteI will get back to you when I have spoken to them on Tuesday. A bulk buy will be cheaper per unit as there are set up costs scanning the object to be copied.
Well, upshot is if we had full CAD files they could make them quite easily on the 3D printer.
Without, we would need four good ones, then they would make a mould and hand those four back.
Then they would grow them four at a time in the mould.
Problem is the cost. £350-400 to make the mould, £15 each to grow, so if we were to order 40, they would cost about £25 each. Smaller quantity, more per unit, larger quantity, less per unit, you just spread the cost of the mould across the number made..
That's a genuine price - he's been a friend and client for nearly 20 years and loves my TVR.
Without, we would need four good ones, then they would make a mould and hand those four back.
Then they would grow them four at a time in the mould.
Problem is the cost. £350-400 to make the mould, £15 each to grow, so if we were to order 40, they would cost about £25 each. Smaller quantity, more per unit, larger quantity, less per unit, you just spread the cost of the mould across the number made..
That's a genuine price - he's been a friend and client for nearly 20 years and loves my TVR.
QBee said:
Well, upshot is if we had full CAD files they could make them quite easily on the 3D printer.
Without, we would need four good ones, then they would make a mould and hand those four back.
Then they would grow them four at a time in the mould.
Problem is the cost. £350-400 to make the mould, £15 each to grow, so if we were to order 40, they would cost about £25 each. Smaller quantity, more per unit, larger quantity, less per unit, you just spread the cost of the mould across the number made..
That's a genuine price - he's been a friend and client for nearly 20 years and loves my TVR.
A cheaper route then may be getting a CAD file produced? Would a standard 2d CAD drawing suffice or would it have to be a 3D Model? Let me know QBee? Regards, PeteWithout, we would need four good ones, then they would make a mould and hand those four back.
Then they would grow them four at a time in the mould.
Problem is the cost. £350-400 to make the mould, £15 each to grow, so if we were to order 40, they would cost about £25 each. Smaller quantity, more per unit, larger quantity, less per unit, you just spread the cost of the mould across the number made..
That's a genuine price - he's been a friend and client for nearly 20 years and loves my TVR.
PeteGriff said:
QBee said:
Well, upshot is if we had full CAD files they could make them quite easily on the 3D printer.
Without, we would need four good ones, then they would make a mould and hand those four back.
Then they would grow them four at a time in the mould.
Problem is the cost. £350-400 to make the mould, £15 each to grow, so if we were to order 40, they would cost about £25 each. Smaller quantity, more per unit, larger quantity, less per unit, you just spread the cost of the mould across the number made..
That's a genuine price - he's been a friend and client for nearly 20 years and loves my TVR.
A cheaper route then may be getting a CAD file produced? Would a standard 2d CAD drawing suffice or would it have to be a 3D Model? Let me know QBee? Regards, PeteWithout, we would need four good ones, then they would make a mould and hand those four back.
Then they would grow them four at a time in the mould.
Problem is the cost. £350-400 to make the mould, £15 each to grow, so if we were to order 40, they would cost about £25 each. Smaller quantity, more per unit, larger quantity, less per unit, you just spread the cost of the mould across the number made..
That's a genuine price - he's been a friend and client for nearly 20 years and loves my TVR.
There is no doubt that there is a steady demand for wing mirror parts, they do stick out and they do tend to get broken.....! I've just got my latest copy of Sprint magazine and I notice a big advert for TVR Heritage, which looks like it is part of Les Edgar's new set up, offering genuine TVR parts. What's the chances of getting them interested in running off a batch, perhaps using injection moulding rather than 3D Laser, more expensive to set up but perhaps cheaper per item. In fact, why don't I give them a buzz now and report back. Pete
OK I spoke to TVR Heritage Parts, an amalgamation of Racing Green, Clever Trevor (bought by Racing Green) and ? (I can't remember). They've been licensed by the new TVR. They don't have any of these collars apart from one or two on gutted manual Citroen wing mirrors - but these will be expensive. Demand has not been high for the collars but if enough people rang them they might prioritise sourcing them. Alternatively they might be interested in buying a batch, if the price was right. Not really that much help I'm afraid. Pete
Pete Mac said:
OK I spoke to TVR Heritage Parts, an amalgamation of Racing Green, Clever Trevor (bought by Racing Green) and ? (I can't remember). They've been licensed by the new TVR. They don't have any of these collars apart from one or two on gutted manual Citroen wing mirrors - but these will be expensive. Demand has not been high for the collars but if enough people rang them they might prioritise sourcing them. Alternatively they might be interested in buying a batch, if the price was right. Not really that much help I'm afraid. Pete
Thanks - i'll give them a ring. I have already looked at the website and enrolled for my TVRCC discount.Sorry it was too expensive. I knew they could make them, but thought the price might be a problem. I will ask the production cost if we have a full CAD file, as I might be able to get that done by a friend in the building trade who has already had a number of passenger laps at Snetterton with me.
So yesterday I went to put the driver's side mirror back on the car, and I fixed the bottom ring with the grub screw randomly in position and screwed the mirror into the door......and it was correct to the degree....360 to 1 against. I soldered the broken wires from taking it off, and re-assembled the connectors and got it all working correctly.
I had noticed that my passenger side mirror wobbled, so realising that I might not have fully tightened the toadstool screw I decided to whip it off (it had only been off three weeks ago) and fix the problem. Started to turn the mirror.......and it came off in my hand. The main casting had sheared exactly where the toadstool stalk meets the body of the mirror, ie the weakest point under the most stress, which was why it was wobbling. GRRR!
Took it indoors, spent half an hour trying to get the last bit of casting off the toadstool - nothing to grip against undoing a very tight toadstool screw. Eventually improvised with a pair of secateurs and managed it.
I have ordered a new casting today for 60 quid from Racetech, but last night just for the hell of it I stuck the casting back together - with a big washer as support and some Evostick "Serious Glue". Bugger me, this evening I cannot break the join. That glue is serious glue. Pretty sure I got it in B&Q.
So tomorrow I am going to try to buy another washer with a big hole in the middle for the other side, and will then see if, glued in place, it is strong enough to make a permanent job.
I have a better picture than this - will post it in a minute
So yesterday I went to put the driver's side mirror back on the car, and I fixed the bottom ring with the grub screw randomly in position and screwed the mirror into the door......and it was correct to the degree....360 to 1 against. I soldered the broken wires from taking it off, and re-assembled the connectors and got it all working correctly.
I had noticed that my passenger side mirror wobbled, so realising that I might not have fully tightened the toadstool screw I decided to whip it off (it had only been off three weeks ago) and fix the problem. Started to turn the mirror.......and it came off in my hand. The main casting had sheared exactly where the toadstool stalk meets the body of the mirror, ie the weakest point under the most stress, which was why it was wobbling. GRRR!
Took it indoors, spent half an hour trying to get the last bit of casting off the toadstool - nothing to grip against undoing a very tight toadstool screw. Eventually improvised with a pair of secateurs and managed it.
I have ordered a new casting today for 60 quid from Racetech, but last night just for the hell of it I stuck the casting back together - with a big washer as support and some Evostick "Serious Glue". Bugger me, this evening I cannot break the join. That glue is serious glue. Pretty sure I got it in B&Q.
So tomorrow I am going to try to buy another washer with a big hole in the middle for the other side, and will then see if, glued in place, it is strong enough to make a permanent job.
I have a better picture than this - will post it in a minute
Edited by QBee on Thursday 18th December 19:45
At present you can get complete mirrors from one or two suppliers (might or might not have the door button, but it's not difficult to transfer), the inner casting from Racetech, and so on. Just look at the websites of the usual suppliers (TVR Power, Racetech, Racing Green, TVR Parts). I think Racing Green do a refurbishment service too - there's a link to it on TVR Parts site I think it was.
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