diff removal

my diff needs a rebuild so I plan to pull it out. I have a large access panel on the rear shelf so it is easy to get at BUT. the last time I tried to undo the drive shaft bolts they would not move at all. is there a technique or am I being a wuss?

Also once the drive shaft bolts are undone do the drive shafts move easily or does a flange sit inside the diff wheel?

Though so. I'm a girl. Yes I do have Allen sockets.. Will give it a go.

I use long extensions through the wheel arch for the inner ones using an impact driver although a ratchet works.

Personally, never used a thread lock on these, just make sure they are tight.

If you do, just use a medium, not the very strong ones.

I think Loctite web site has a chart of firmness!

Just info.
I have changed all the bolts and nuts in the driveline.
And found out that the thread on the new bolts from Rimmerbros was to short.
So had to put a washer on.


Good luck.
Hans

Hi , if the thread was too short and you put a washer on it would it not be even shorter ? Or an I missing something here ? I have not had the pleasure in the removal of the diff or driveshafts yet however I will be doing all the drive train soon so looking forward to it :-)

Ste

They have spring washers don't they? I've never thread locked them and just don't see any need.

Make sure the recesses in the allen heads are picked out or blasted clear and just crack them hard; they'll shift no problem. There's no flange that I recall, but the wheel side (if you're completely removing the shafts) can get baked on from brake heat. Again, body English will move it if so; never had a problem on the diff end. Like the idea of the access hatch

You going for a Quaife upgrade?

Finally got sone spare time today. Only took 4 hours to remove the exhaust and get all the bolts undone. All except one of the long bolts to the front lower diff mount on which the nut just will not shift. I am soaking it overnight so will try again tomorrow.

A dumb question but do I have to take off the rear top diff mount as well as removing the long bolt that goes through the bush. The diff is free but I am struggling to get the diff to drop forwards far enough to clear the rear top mount so I can rotate it to drop through the chassis. Maybe because the front lower mount is partly in the way?

The good news is that there is not a single spot of rust on the chassis in the tunnel or up near the diff. It is all perfect so I am pleased with that.

Thanks. I will leave it on then. I will have to twist that front bracket to get the clearance.

thanks. thought as much. I loosened the drivers side long bottom bolt and then just rotated the bracket upwards out of the way, but I just cannot shift the nut on the passenger side one. I am soaking it in penetrating oil for a day or so. if that doesn't work I will have to cut off the nut and get a new bolt.