Slow windows - A cure

seasider said:

Me me me me as well... David knows what i'm like when i start pulling wires out

Me too Del. I had to call him for the remote boot release and the light kit - it sounds simpe until it isn't quite what you expect or wires are different colours - bloody TVR's.

Antony - a little clearer now, so I connect the wire going into the connector (from the switch on the centre console) to 86 and the corresponding outbound to the motor) to 30. Same with the other relay.
The other 2 wires (the thin ones) are speakers and therefore just connect together (or leave in the existing connector).
Happy to try as I know DB is always busy but a plug and play would be great. I'd have one.
Griff is a daily runner but not much call for opening windows at the mo.
FFG

Well I will be giving it a go this weekend hopefully, I've located the wires just need to get the 5 pin relay as the one I had was only 4 pins. Looks pretty simple using DB's instructions but quite fiddly to get to in my car.

Made this a FAQ as this has some great info and help on for this pesky common fault

BB

FlipFlopGriff said:

OK final question. What ampage cable do I need to use for pos and neg cables? FFG

I bet its not

Not much interest on this then ! The "thick" wires to the relay and the run to the door wires,wire should be at least 32a 16awg, although the motors do not take anything like that. Make sure there is a fuse installed,20a but i can not measure as its peeeing down. Are you doing both doors from the same supply ?
You should of got in touch, i have everything to hand.

seasider said:

david beer said: Not much interest on this then ! The "thick" wires to the relay and the run to the door wires,wire should be at least 32a 16awg, although the motors do not take anything like that. Make sure there is a fuse installed,20a but i can not measure as its peeeing down. Are you doing both doors from the same supply ? You should of got in touch, i have everything to hand. Yes Please David

Yeah I'd go for one aswell if that's ok. No time again this weekend as other stuff cropped up.

I measured the current and they will draw 8-9 amps, depending on drag. Mine "used to have" a slow moment around half way up. The passengers side will be slower as it has even crappier wire. I did a few jobs on mine this weekend, ran out of time also, the sun was out and a glass of wine, all wrapped up, was my choice !

only been.tvr owner 4 2months griff500 ialso suffer with slow windows so any help would be great also doe,s any one know what car rear lights are from and what mk.

Hi, fixed my slow windows last weekend. Mine was no major mystery, and no fancy relay required. There is an obvious wear isue, the channel rubbers wear with time and the friction increases. New channel is avalable from Woolies, type 317 to my memory. it's about £2 a metre.

The reason it wears is because: 1, the window curvature doesn't really match the channel, 2, the window trajectory (controlled by the raising mechanism) is not aligned with the channel. 1 is not fixable, but 2 is. The front aluminimum channel is aligned so when the door is shut it fits well to the windscreen, and is adjustable (a bit, big holes and bolts). When I removed the door trim and watched the window in the front channel, it was obvious that the window was pulled in towards the car at the lowest point, pushing very hard on the window channel. If you loosen the bolt holding the window raise machanism (central to the door), you can see the window move back towards the centre of the channel. My window would go up and down with this bolt loosened (by about 6 mm), but when done up it was very slow, even with new rubbers. I fitted a spacer between the door inner surface and mechanism and did the bolt up tight, and there we go.

So, in summary, it's geometry, not electrics.

A word of warning, I really nearly got my arm stuck in teh door when undoing the three bolts for the trim. You have to put your arm right through the speaker hole.

Best of luck.

Nic

Hi Dave

Perhaps the revised electrics provides more current for the motor, but in my case reducing the need for current provided a cure. Perhaps both would be best!

Nic