Self losening Bolts

Self losening Bolts

Author
Discussion

2Munkys

1,228 posts

238 months

Friday 2nd May 2008
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Barreti said:
Do you have to know what size washers you need and if so what did you order for the 3/8 ARP bolts 2Munkys ?
I wouldn't mind ordering some of these today if I get the chance so I can get the manifold off and replace the gasket at the weekend. I bet its the nearside again rolleyes
NL3/8"ss. 10.3mm ID, 16.6mm OD, 2.2mm thick. I'll double check 'em when they arrive.

The stainless are double the cost of the standard washer; that's probably what you have Fat Griff.

Ian, you need to e.mail your requirements and address so they can reply with an invoice: enquiries@nord-lock.co.uk . Small bags of 10 are available, other than that the denomination is 100.

I too have another gasket blowing; hoping to fix it all for good with the ARP bolts, Nord-locks and Clever Trevor gaskets.

tvr4ever

643 posts

261 months

Friday 2nd May 2008
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2Munkys said:
Nord-locks and Clever Trevor gaskets.
Thats what i did, no problems since then.

2Munkys

1,228 posts

238 months

Friday 2nd May 2008
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Nord-Locks pretty much dimensionally identical to ARP washers i.e. 'a rattlin' good fit' (bottom of shot).

Barreti

6,680 posts

238 months

Tuesday 13th May 2008
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Thanks Bruce. Ordered some of these today.

Does anyone know if its possible (or sensible) to replace the manifold gaskets on a pre-cat without undoing the big 'ships bollard' gasket at the front. I've got spare exhaust port gaskets but not one for the front.

Ta.
Ian

Barreti

6,680 posts

238 months

Tuesday 13th May 2008
quotequote all
Barreti said:
I bet its the nearside again rolleyes
It is - again.
And isn't it always the same, its the bolt nearest the bulkhead which is a complete pig to get to.

350Matt

3,738 posts

280 months

Wednesday 14th May 2008
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If you're sliding one gasket in I'd say it may be possible but you'll probably have to loosen all of the manifold bolts on both sides to get enough freedom of movement to do the job. Possibly support he weight of the down pipe on a trolley jack as well?

Last time I had the big joint apart I used firegum, worked fine


Matt

dogbucket

1,204 posts

202 months

Tuesday 2nd September 2008
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Can I just confirm that the S/S nordlocks work ok with S/S bolts? ie the teeth on the outside of the nordlocks are able to bite and grip the bolt head enabling the special ramps to function.

Basically I bought zinc nordlocks which work fine on steel bolts but are unable to bite into my S/S ones so the whole system fails as it slips like a normal washer.

Ta

clive f

7,250 posts

234 months

Tuesday 2nd September 2008
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the nordlock washers are a two piece item, them lock against eachother, see their website for a description of the design, there is no problem using them with stainless bolts, it sounds like you`re describing a different type of washer, but its name escapes me at the moment.

dogbucket

1,204 posts

202 months

Tuesday 2nd September 2008
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no I definitely have nordlocks, just the softer zinc ones so they are unable to grip the harder stainless steel. The fiction between the bolt head and the nordlock is therefore less than the force needed for it slide on the ramps when undoing, so it acts like a normal washer and slips. They work as expected on the original soft steel bolts as the teeth can bite into the metal and then the only bit that moves is the ramps.

steve-V8s

2,901 posts

249 months

Tuesday 2nd September 2008
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May be wrong but thought the secret was to fit them fairly snugly, gently run the engine up to temp without revving it, let it cool down and then tighten them up. Shouldn’t need touching after that.

ruaricoles

1,179 posts

226 months

Tuesday 2nd September 2008
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Barreti said:
My pre-cat has the exhaust bolted to the bellhousing. don't the other cars have this?
Mine (a 500) has the exhaust bolted to the side of the sump or block somewhere on the LHS just rearward of the the clamp down there - I assume that's standard and helps take the weight.

Ruari