sensible Suggestions please

A vendor is obliged to (correctly) answer any question you ask . This doesn't mean you won't be lied to, but you will be doing all you can. So ask:

Is there anything wrong with it?
What will need doing at the next service?
Has the xxxx been done? (ie clutch/camshaft etc)
Has the car ever been in an accident?

Note the omission of 'that you are aware of' or 'in your opinion' (which provide a less blatant opportunity to lie) and don't be fobbed off by dealers just saying 'I don't know'. They blooming well should know!

I can email you a check list if you were after specific points.

Also worth going to Steve Heaths web site www.tvrbooks.co.uk/. There is a whole section under the FAQs cunningly entitled "Guide to buying a Griffith".

Should have everything you need to ask and a bit more. I found it very useful when I bought my chimaera.

Guess I was asking for that one.

Forgot to say that there is a guide for the chimaera as well. Considering a griff for next summer though.

Buy the 'The Griffith and Chimaera' by Steve Heath. You'll see it on PH referred to as 'the bible' - there’s a chapter on buying Griffs in there.

If you want a 1994 one, try and get a later model with the T5 gear box. Of course, you could go for a 4.0 or 4.3 of course, they are virtually just as fast but louder.

Like I said though, post on PH for some feedback about Rob Ingleby. If you’re not mechanically minded, this is definitely the route to go – it’ll cost £500 fee but the car you end up with will be good nick with good service history and he’ll negotiate a good price for you.

If you want anymore info, feel free to email. I love talking Griffs almost as much as I like driving one.

I am thinking of buying shares in Optimax!

early 500's can be found with Pas / a/c / and full leather. also pre-serps can be had with T5 boxes.

mine has all of the above on a '94 plate.

took 6 months to find mine (nationally) the it turned up 30 miles from my house.

most important thing on a 94+ car is the CHASSIS!!!
these early cars have "suspect" powder coating which is WELL into its life so check the outriggers wishbones etc - well.
Peeling coating is normal which is ok so long as there's no rust.

upgrades are good but don't add to the price much. items like nitrons, 4-pots are good, particularly if you intend to "track and field". suspension will be getting well tired by now eiter way.

go for a car with "reasonable" mileage, means its been used and loved. low mileage means abandoned and forgotton or treasured and doted on. you decide which!

a good local dealer/specialist will check out your prospect for you, for an hours labour, or take someone with you who has one!!

good luck...you won't regret it! if you buy a good un!

cheers

OK, here's what I used (blatantly plagarised from around the world so apologies if anybody lays claim to a particular part):

Bodywork

Check the driving lights at the bottom for cracks

Check how the doors hang - have they scraped against the inside due to being badly hung

Check how the hood is attached to the car - is the glue coming away

Condition of roof/seals

Chassis

Top ball joints (last 12k miles at best) – rock wheel with car’s weight on to check wear

Check dampers at each corner by bouncing

Dampers often leak and the valves knock

Front upper wishbones - corrosion

Front outriggers, behind front wheels – chips, corrosion

Chassis members under sills - corrosion

Suspension bushes collapse and suspension arms rub against chassis lugs

Front and rear chassis – accident damage/jacking damage

Ensure that the front bar of the chassis is straight

Check steering rack for leaks

Check brakes for leaks

Check for even tyre wear

Early cars have GKN diffs, often leak and big hassle getting seals and fitting them

Engine

Remove inspection hatch in inner wing (driver’s side) to check no clutch fluid leak

Exhaust – no smoke

Piston slap common from cold start

Smooth idle/nice tickover – 1000rpm

No hunting

Restarts when hot

Oil pressure – 25-30 psi

Coolant 70-80 while driving, fans cut in at 92

Check the cooling fans work - do both fans kick in at 90

Check the ventilation fan works (it's at the front of the car behind the left headlight) - they are pretty exposed and can fail

Coolant leaks in corners of radiators, hoses and water pump

Check exhaust manifolds and gaskets for leaks

Engines can be noisy

Listen for any valve clatter when warm - in particular when travelling at a constant speed in 2nd/3rd at 3K revs

Interior/Electrics

Windscreen de-lamination – milkiness around edge of glass

Check for water/rust/mould under carpets, on seat mechanisms. Check seatbelt operation

Look at the seats and if you can see any grain, it's vinyl rather than leather – leather should be smooth

Early 500 – black heating controls (in front of gearknob), reversed speedo & rev counter
Later 500 – aluminium heating controls, normal speedo (with mechanical tripometer) & rev counter, silver rinmmed 94>

Rover gearbox – reverser upper left, T5 gearbox – reverse lower right

Check all electrics work especially
• instrumentation
• the complicated electronic heater
• heated mirrors
• heated seats if fitted.
• electric windows (don't let them clunk at the bottom because it will eventually drop out the guides and refuse to go up again)
• lights

Test Drive

If steering binds when turned, UJ’s worn

Car should not drift to one side with no hands on wheel (unless cambered road)

No judder when brakes applied

Smooth acceleration

Misc

Options: PAS, A/C, leather, heated seats

Gazboy said:

I'm also thinking of a griff, with a 15k budget, is the 500 much better/quicker than a 4.3, how much is a '94

It's mine!

there are cars about under 15k but few and far between. (sellers please pay no attention to this) I spoke to a dealer friend and he told me I would not get a Griff 5 under 15k in decent nick.



the list is great.

I intend to prove him wrong.

I’ve recently bought a 1994 500 with 46K miles for £14.5K.
However the price reflects the fact that it will take some work over the winter to get it to where I’d like it to be. Nothing drastic just the usual, chassis protection, wishbones and brakes. This work is more preventative than necessary at the moment but they are the sort of cars that need constant preventative maintenance to keep them at their best, IMHO.
All the stuff mention previously is important stuff so make sure it’s right or make an allowance in the price to put it right. If you don’t then you may be in for some expensive shocks.
They are absolutely wonderful cars when they are running right and I can’t think of anything else to beat a Griff, Good luck and happy hunting.

Ours averages around 22-24, but we did get 27! on a very gentle-ish pootle to David Gerald and back to Nottingham.

maggit